Hey everyone,
Spent the last few days pouring over bmw m54 ccv, oil seperator, pcv discussions, trying to understand ccv delete.
Today i tore down my 2002 525i so i could look at the ccv, which i found drenched in oil and probably leaking/broken.
Also i didnt see any mayo, I'm guessing cause im California and its not cold like you guys on the east coast.
I would like to perform the delete since i feel my ccv is going bad and the engine is consuming more and more oil between oil changes.
The following is what i understand of the ccv delete..is it correct?
A. Blocking the ccv dip stick hose
B. Remove the ccv
C. Connect remaining hoses to a closed system within the intake manifold/air distribution connector (Valve cover hose, Return pipe and Upper CCV line)
One thing Ive read again and again is the vacuum pressure seems to be increased, but so far it hasn't been a huge issue and/or the effects haven't been noticed.
With my limited knowledge, it seems the pressure is increased because the CCV dip stick tube is now blocked, not allowing pressure to circulate from the valve cover to the bottom of engine. Its the one thing different in this changed system. Does that sounds plausible?
Would it be possible to run the valve cover hose down towards where the ccv was, insert a T-junction then run a hose back up to the intake manifold. Somewhere the PCV would be inserted of course. Im guessing near the upper end of the hose right before it connects to the manifold.
If this is possible i think it might solve two issues. (see attached image)
1. It would allow oil to drain down to the dip stick and circulate gases. This would assist the oil to drain down to the T-junction (then to the dip stick) but not back up to the manifold.
2. Equalize/reduce high pressures within the system since now the pressure circulates like the original system with the CCV.
What do you think?
tjunctionjpeg.jpg
Last edited by bimmerfan2014; 02-07-2016 at 02:46 AM.
I think what you are describing is a catch can solution where the vapours go from the valve cover to a catch can which then separates the vapour and returns air to the inlet and oil to the sump, basically the same as the standard CCV system.
From what I understand the increased vacuum in this system makes sure the oil control rings seal properly meaning there is very little if any oil being lost and therefore none to need returning via the dipstick tube.
Ok friend didn't understand last point the t brass fitting what's the purpose of it and you are connecting which hose to which ??
Sorry cause Iam confused
And
PCV1124DL this valve is for which car and which model so I can get it from auto part
Thanks in advance
And by removing air distributer isn't safe to do it by a screw driver ??
And sorry for silly question cause Iam novice on this modification
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Ok I've understand the T adapter and everything but want now just to know the valve from which car ?
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Did you finish other end of the hose ?? Of T or you fix it like this
Post no 125 has a link to the PCV in eBay
Yes this PCV valve is used on LOTS of cars, everything from Chevy's to Fords, probably easier to buy it on ebay, I've seen them sold internationally so you shouldn't have a problem buying one. just look for PCV1124DL on ebay.
My CCV Delete Mod : http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...em-(Pic-Heavy)
99 528i just did this ccv delete, and possibly have an issue. after buying the pcv1124dl pcv valve, i noticed that it held a free, gravity held ball, with no spring inside, usually held vertically when used. this installation holds it horizontally. the internal ball is free to move. after doing the mod, (prior to doing this, i had reset adaptations for some other work on the car), at idle, my ltft's were 0.0, my stft's were going up around 12, leading me to believe the mod was giving me a big vac leak. 3500 rpm, stft's markedly lessened, around 4. pending mixture faults were read for both banks, i will be dealing with this more tomorrow, but has anyone had this experience, any suggestions or thoughts? i used the original fittings to the distribution piece, all new fuel line for all the hoses, none of the original hard plastic tubing remains. for the front fitting, a 5/8" rubber cap was needed to cap it. the dipstick tube port required a 3/8" rubber cap, both found locally at a bearing/hydraulic shop.
Hey Matt,
What did you do to the small vacuum hose that you removed from CCV valve?
I'm pretty sure you have vacuum leak, check your new connections again.
I wouldn't worry about horizontal or vertical mount, as a matter of fact horizontal is easier is better because it will take less vacuum to pull shut.
Hi Alex...would that be item #6 in the pic on post 126? I just noticed that line, hadnt messed with it, ill need to look at this line. i hadnt done any small tube changes during this mod. im pretty sure its a vac leak too, looked around for one.
im trying to find it for sure before i do anything...is it the vac hose that ends in to a metal tube on the top of the fuel rail? hard to see if thats the one that goes to the ccv or goes to elsewhere...im still digging.
I think you're on the right track. I don't have a M52TU engine to verify. None of my cars is M52TU.
If it is indeed connects to the fuel rail then you need to re-route to another vacuum junction or else at idle your engine will run rich, rich mixture is definitely bad. My recommendation is to route it to the F-connector where the intake boot is (that if you have one).
Just did this mod to my '02, 525. temps here are going to be 2*....pretty cold.
I'll report back after a few miles on the car.
One big difference is the idle. It's butter smooth. There was always a slight vibration that I could feel in the steering wheel...that's gone now.
( e34)
'91 525i calypso/parchment (Big Red)
'92 525i calypso/parchment ( parts)
'95 525i alpenweiss/parchment, 5spd( parts)
( e39)
'01 530i Msport susp. anthracite/gray
'02 525i Msport susp. jet black/sand
'02 M5 jet black/blk-silverstone
(e53)
'06 X5 alpenweiss/truffle brown
finished the mod, after having 2 coils go out and a water pump needing replacement, all happened the same day. for m52tu folks, the steel line running the length of the fuel rail on top of the engine feeds the fuel pressure regulator regulator mounted by the fuel filter.however my stft's went way hi at low rpm's when trying it out, dropped to an acceptable level when holding 3500 rpm, ltft stayed low. checked for any vac leaks i may have inadvertently created, there were none. so i pinched off the 3/8 output of the new pcv valve, voila, all returned to normal trims. while i did notice an idle improvement, better off idle response, and generally a smoother feel, i have no way to know if doing this mod or replacing the 6 coils made the change. any thoughts?
Thinking about going to this system since I do have a lot of oil consumption and black blow by all over the back of the car. My question is does it matter/will it work if I have a supercharger.
02 M5 (less than 45k miles), 09 328, 07 X3, 10 MB C350, '02 530 AA Stage2/intercooler, 04' 330, jaguar 3.0AWD
My CCV Delete Mod : http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...em-(Pic-Heavy)
Just thought I'd add an update. I carried out this mod on Friday and boy do I wish I'd done it sooner.
The car feels stronger, a bit hard to describe but the idle seems smoother and the car pulls a bit better, it could be all in my mind!
The car always had a lot of fumes coming from the exhaust and so after I'd done the conversion I cleaned and polished the exhaust and carefully checked the oil level. After a couple of hundred miles the exhaust is still clean and the oil level hasent changed, I was using 1litre every 350 miles, I'll keep monitoring things but it all looks good at the moment.
I've been reading on another forum E46fanatics another solution using all genuine parts.
Apparently there is a variant of engine in the USA called an M56 SULEV. It's for ultra clean states but it has done away with the rubbish CCV and has a CCV built into the valve cover which is metal not plastic. The outlet from the valve cover that used to go to the CCV just has a pipe that goes to the large inlet on the air distribution piece. It has a different dipstick tube with no oil return inlet.
I guess the parts could be obtained outside the USA but at a cost, on the other thread they are buying them second hand from breakers. Worth investigating?
An elegant solution would be to retrofit the sulev valve cover from the M56 engine. The valve cover is aluminum, has apparently a N62 CCV valve, but the cover has to be removed to access it. There is only one hose that goes out from the top of the valve cover and attaches to the intake manifold, meaning, you either take a sulev manifold (I wouldn't because the M56 is for a 325 car, so I think it's more restrictive) or one would just cap off the original intake manifold where the other original CCV hoses get attached to it. Also, I wouldn't bother with a new dipstick, just cap off the original CCV connection. Here is a detailed post on e46 fanatics. Be sure you read to the very end, where I posted a few tidbits.
Here is how that valve cover looks with the only 1 hose attached to the intake manifold. You can see where the CCV valve is lodged on the top - the black round plastic cap:
11004371_848619815176002_95021070_n.jpg
Looking for a DIY? Parts? Check this out, it might be your ticket
Stable: e92is, e53 N62, e46M54B25, Tribby & e39 M54B30 R.I.P.
someone put this on sticky please
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Hi guys I am hoping you have some insight or ideas to the issue that I am having. My situation is not exactly the same, as I am running an obd1 s52. I tried the intake manifold vacuum mod as my original issue was heavy smoking after sitting and taking off from a stoplight on hot days. My car was burning about 1 quart/1k miles. I figured while our engines have some differences they are close enough in design to try an easy fix. I have tried the e36 obd2 ccv with slight improvement, as well as changing my valve seals. But it wasn't until I did the vacuum straight to the crankcase mod that I found all noticeable smoking disappear. I've run this way for about a week now with seemingly stronger acceleration and overall smoother operation. Unfortunately I have recently noticed my oil pressure light flicker at a hot idle. The obvious suspect is too much crankcase vacuum. I have read that high levels of crankcase vacuum can lower oil pressure due to the vacuum sucking oil out of exit points, and also resisting the oil pump's ability to suction oil up through the pickup tube. I am running 5/8 hoses and the pcv valve recommended in post#37 of the ccv delete thread. http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...=601440&page=2
I guess the question I am asking is if you guys have had any luck in trying different pcv valves, to limit/achieve less vacuum to the crankcase. I have been unable to think of a type of valve or regulator to decrease the vacuum level applied while keeping a good amount of volume/airflow. Here is some pics of my setup. I will likely get rid of the catchcan as I have read there is usually not much oil collecting in there anyways, as well as a lot of water collecting in the wintertime.(This has been my experience with the catchcan in the past)
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