NBT/CIC/CCC retrofit in E39/E38/E53

[blackknight530i]

The problem lies with the dsp amp volume setting, not the nbt.

[shanecarmaster1]

Strike that, it does, but dsp still goes quiet after shutdown.

What effect does it have then? Does it increase overall volume or anything?

[blackknight530i]

What effect does it have then? Does it increase overall volume or anything?

If set low, it will limit the volume at initial turn on, when set to 64, it will retain what it was before on the nbt. If you never change the volume on the dsp using the bordcomputer control, it should always start up at the last volume.

[MJ DOOM]

Huh? You got me confused. Lol. Maybe the board monitor is throwing it off.

[blackknight530i]

Huh? You got me confused. Lol. Maybe the board monitor is throwing it off.

How high do you have to turn up the nbt to get a decent level?

[blackknight530i]

I figured out a better option. Set amp variant to external, audio variant to stereo, and VOL_MAX_ON to 64. This seems to work very well without touching the volume knob on the bordmonitor, though you can still increase the volume higher by using that. It won't retain that added volume though.

[MJ DOOM]

Amp variant: external
Audio variant: TopHifi
VOL_MAX_ON: Like 30.

Oem board monitor removed, my settings work like the MK systems. I hear music when I turned my car on, only a few clicks on Vol up to my preferred listening level.

[blackknight530i]

Amp variant: external
Audio variant: TopHifi
VOL_MAX_ON: Like 30.

Oem board monitor removed, my settings work like the MK systems. I hear music when I turned my car on, only a few clicks on Vol up to my preferred listening level.

That does work well, but I guess I need to figure out how to modify my dsp settings because they are wrong for my added sub since I added it after removing my nav computer and selling it.

[MJ DOOM]

That does work well, but I guess I need to figure out how to modify my dsp settings because they are wrong for my added sub since I added it after removing my nav computer and selling it.

I think you can code factory dsp settings with e38 coding tools, ncsexpert or something like that, Im sure you know.

[blackknight530i]

I think you can coded factory dsp settings with e38 coding tools, ncsexpert or something like that, Im sure you know.

No, you can't change the eq settings that way. You can change the speed dependent volume stuff, but not the actual eq stuff.

[MJ DOOM]

That does work well, but I guess I need to figure out how to modify my dsp settings because they are wrong for my added sub since I added it after removing my nav computer and selling it.

Which sounds the best though to you? Stereo, Hifi, TopHifi?

[MJ DOOM]

No, you can't change the eq settings that way. You can change the speed dependent volume stuff, but not the actual eq stuff.

Maybe one of those mini dsp monitor can change settings from the non nav e38s

[blackknight530i]

Which sounds the best though to you? Stereo, Hifi, TopHifi?

Well, I found stereo to actually be a bit distorted, but I'm not totally sure about that. It did have the highest initial volume though. Hifi sounds the best overall, but requires increasing the dsp volume. Tophifi is a good compromise.

[blackknight530i]

Maybe one of those mini dsp monitor can change settings from the non nav e38s

I would imagine it would. I'll look into getting one.

[shanecarmaster1]

Oh no, that's a great point Blacknight. I use two different EQ settings for my iPod/phone and for the FM radio, and I constantly play with the lowest eq adjustment to blend the sub better or I crank it when I'm jamming out. Those adjustments are crucial

[blackknight530i]

Just need to figure out what movie formats it'll play and how to get stuff from iTunes onto a USB.

Also, I checked today as to what formats it plays from USB.

I loaded up a .mkv, a .mp4 and a .flac file onto my USB stick and all worked great, though the video doesn't go fullscreen for some reason. I know that .m4a (ALAC - Apple Lossless Audio Codec) doesn't work. It recognizes it, which means regular AAC based .m4a files would work, but it doesn't actually play the ALAC files. Basically, I would need to convert my entire library of 12k+ songs into .FLAC files for them to work with it. That said, it would be pretty cheap to get a 512GB SSD and load them all up and not have to worry about the iPod. My iPod is a 7th gen classic with a 512GB msata drive in it currently, but I like to keep it in my other car, so I need something for this one.

Nick, have you had any issues with heat cutting your NBT off at all? Mine gets quite warm in the little cubby on the left, even though I moved my sub amp out of there. Mine is mounted vertically face down (no dvd drive) with the fan face up to expel heat. I have had it reboot for no reason sometimes, so I thought maybe it was just getting really hot.

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Oh no, that's a great point Blacknight. I use two different EQ settings for my iPod/phone and for the FM radio, and I constantly play with the lowest eq adjustment to blend the sub better or I crank it when I'm jamming out. Those adjustments are crucial

Yeah, with the NBT, as of right now, there are no EQ settings. I think the idea of using the older type non-nav DSP controls might be the only way to change those. To be honest though, I just want something to set the volume of the DSP amp when the car starts to a higher level, then I can use any one of the other options. Another possible option is to reconnect my BM53 with only power, ground and IBUS wires, so the DSP thinks it's still connected. As far as I can remember, I didn't have the volume drop off whenever the car restarted when it was still connected. I'll give that a go sometime tomorrow and see what happens. I can mount that thing anywhere if those are the only wires that need to be connected for it to fix the problem. I hope it doesn't cause any IBUS conflicts.

[shanecarmaster1]

That sounds like a good solution for you. However, why would you only connect those few wires? What's wrong with connecting the whole thing?

[blackknight530i]

That sounds like a good solution for you. However, why would you only connect those few wires? What's wrong with connecting the whole thing?

I would only connect the bm53 with the ibus, power and ground because that makes it show the dsp that it is connected so the dsp acts like it used to. I'm using the nbt as the radio, so I can't imagine why I would want to hook it up entirely.

[shanecarmaster1]

I was just trying to brainstorm some ideas about where to mount the iDrive controller. I sat in my e38 and tried the center armrest position, but I had to stretch my arm way too far back to access the imaginary knob. Then, with my hand on the armrest as usual, I let my hand fall to the right of the shifter (the original place where we assumed the controller could go), and it felt perfect. However, maybe the console wood was a bit too low for my wrist to access my imaginary controller comfortably. My idea: maybe build an enclosure to fit around the bottom half of the controller, the part that's not supposed to be exposed, and fit it on top of the console instead of mounted inside. This way, to controller is at ideal x and y coordinates, but also at a height that's comfortable. My only two concerns are: A) custom fabrication is something I don't want to get involved with, especially since most of it looks homemade anyway, and B) a big chunky controller sticking up might look terrible.

I'm still eagerly awaiting what idea Mick has come up with.

[blackknight530i]

I was just trying to brainstorm some ideas about where to mount the iDrive controller. I sat in my e38 and tried the center armrest position, but I had to stretch my arm way too far back to access the imaginary knob. Then, with my hand on the armrest as usual, I let my hand fall to the right of the shifter (the original place where we assumed the controller could go), and it felt perfect. However, maybe the console wood was a bit too low for my wrist to access my imaginary controller comfortably. My idea: maybe build an enclosure to fit around the bottom half of the controller, the part that's not supposed to be exposed, and fit it on top of the console instead of mounted inside. This way, to controller is at ideal x and y coordinates, but also at a height that's comfortable. My only two concerns are: A) custom fabrication is something I don't want to get involved with, especially since most of it looks homemade anyway, and B) a big chunky controller sticking up might look terrible.

I'm still eagerly awaiting what idea Mick has come up with.

I'm with you there, but when I did my imaginary placement searching, I found the spot behind the shifter to work quite well. I would need to relocate the central door lock and hazard buttons to the side to fit it, but it could go there. The problem is making it look good without needing to wrap it. If Xboss could make a good Vavona piece that would replace the center console piece and have an idrive controller hole cut out instead of the ashtray, I would be very happy with that. The other option is to wrap all the trim and lose the Vavona. I actually just started to like the Vavona once I put it in my e38, so it would actually be a bit heartbreaking if I had to cover it up. I just recently pulled the Vavona from my e39 and realized how good it looks, even though it was covered in carbon fiber cloth since about a few months after I got the car. The enclosure thing over the console trim has a couple downsides to it. One is that you'd need to cut up the console trim in some way to be able to mount the enclosure. Another is that it might cover up something that will make it look weird. I think that one option that might work well (and might actually be what Mick is planning) is to make something kind of like the "ultimate cup holder" for the e38 that slides into the pocket and sticks out of it to hold the controller up higher. This might be possible to do well, but I really need to see it before I decide. I just have a feeling that ergonomically, it will be the best option, but cosmetically might not look great. We just won't know until we see what he has up his sleeve.

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YEs that's fine please refer to the PDF I wrote and check that you have a jumper on SW1 as per the pictures.

What do I do if my adapter has a jumper on both SW0 and SW1 and I'm having the same issues that Nick is with the Nav?

[pabloMG]

Try do desconect the sw 1 first and if not any change disconect the sw 0

[noahabel]

I'd need to take some measurements, but my thought was to cut out a prefect square area around the ashtray and hazard/lock buttons and rotate it 90 degrees. Then the controller could either replace the ashtray or, ideally, fit underneath the ashtray lid and pop up or stay hidden. I have no way to tell how it would fit yet; can someone with a controller take some pics of it next to the E38 ashtray?

All of that would, of course, necessitate recovering the entire wood piece in wrap as the wood grain wouldn't match. OR, we could model & 3D print a black bezel that would hold the controller in the right orientation and the buttons turned sideways. But this would create a large square of black plastic just below the shifter black plastic.

Would love to know what Mick has in mind. Give us a hint?

[GSXRliterbikz]

Also, I checked today as to what formats it plays from USB. I loaded up a .mkv, a .mp4 and a .flac file onto my USB stick and all worked great, though the video doesn't go fullscreen for some reason. I know that .m4a (ALAC - Apple Lossless Audio Codec) doesn't work. It recognizes it, which means regular AAC based .m4a files would work, but it doesn't actually play the ALAC files. Basically, I would need to convert my entire library of 12k+ songs into .FLAC files for them to work with it. That said, it would be pretty cheap to get a 512GB SSD and load them all up and not have to worry about the iPod. My iPod is a 7th gen classic with a 512GB msata drive in it currently, but I like to keep it in my other car, so I need something for this one. Nick, have you had any issues with heat cutting your NBT off at all? Mine gets quite warm in the little cubby on the left, even though I moved my sub amp out of there. Mine is mounted vertically face down (no dvd drive) with the fan face up to expel heat. I have had it reboot for no reason sometimes, so I thought maybe it was just getting really hot. - - - Updated - - - Yeah, with the NBT, as of right now, there are no EQ settings. I think the idea of using the older type non-nav DSP controls might be the only way to change those. To be honest though, I just want something to set the volume of the DSP amp when the car starts to a higher level, then I can use any one of the other options. Another possible option is to reconnect my BM53 with only power, ground and IBUS wires, so the DSP thinks it's still connected. As far as I can remember, I didn't have the volume drop off whenever the car restarted when it was still connected. I'll give that a go sometime tomorrow and see what happens. I can mount that thing anywhere if those are the only wires that need to be connected for it to fix the problem. I hope it doesn't cause any IBUS conflicts.

Mine has never cut out. But it's only in the 80's up here.

[MrFlam]

Kind of like what blacknight530 said, you could put a slide out controller in where the TEC cup holder goes in the e39 and maybe it could be put in the compartment in the e38.
That is how they mount the idrive controller in the Rolls Royce cars sometimes. I know the RR controller is shaped different but it might still be do-able.

[blackknight530i]

Kind of like what blacknight530 said, you could put a slide out controller in where the TEC cup holder goes in the e39 and maybe it could be put in the compartment in the e38.
That is how they mount the idrive controller in the Rolls Royce cars sometimes. I know the RR controller is shaped different but it might still be do-able.

I tried to see if I could find that Rolls Royce controller... Good luck. It's nowhere to be found, except for a part number in Realoem.com. Really nice looking and would work well for our application it seems, but impossible to find.