I left the pump, but thats just because I was too lazy to run new lines.
Why would you ever want to delete abs ?
Why would you ever want to NOT delete it?
The stock E36 ABS is only 3 channel and if you drive todays UHP's, semislicks or slicks the stock ABS will kick on waaaaaay to early because those tyres work with much more slip compared to over 20year old rubber compound
Also check out the "ice mode" on the E36 ABS... if you are tailbraking in long corners you have a good chance to expirience the crash of your life! check out this thread if you want to learn more on this topic: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...-E36-M3-at-VIR
Last edited by r0taryh3ad; 01-24-2015 at 08:30 AM.
I have driven slicks /semi slicks / summer tyres /M+S / winter tires with studs and never got problem. Even more on ice ABS have saved my ass feaw time.
There you go: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=brFQklBp-b8
here is a pic of mines. it was just made with brake lines and fittings. straight forward job.
that's what Im doing as well went to parts store $2 brake T
Jacques Cousteau could never get this low
I did mine as well. Not too bad a job. Summit sells cheap hard brake line and fittings. (oreilly auto has a surprisingly good selection of fittings also). I did have a funky fitting though and had to cut/flare a factory line. Flaring the factory line was a huge PITA. I had to do it like three times before it would seal, not split and not leak. I have worked with a lot of brake lines and the bmw lines were by far the worst!
Once you remove the ABS, can you use the stock master brake cylinder to operate only the front brakes with the pedal? And maybe use a hydraulic handbrake with a separate rez to operate the rears?
Still why you want to delete ABS ? Its stupid.
In the 1st video the driver appeared to make no attempt at modulating the brakes. Of course it will take significantly more distance to stop if you just mash the pedal to the floor and lock up the wheels. However with careful competent modulation, the car could (and should) stop in the same distance or less without ABS.
rotaryhead_ yes I have a metric and SAE flare set. The BMW lines are stainless and are super hard. Not sure why, but when I did a small flare, it would not seal. Any larger flare and it wanted to split the line at the very tip. Ive built several cars and buggys with custom lines etc. Never had an issue like I did with this car!!!!
Semo11-BMW did not design ABS for the track or drifting. It was designed for street use. There are a million reasons to delete it in a race car. ABS designed by ferrari or lambo or similar grade vehicles will stop a car faster than non abs. Pretty much every other car on the planet can be stopped faster with a competent driver without abs than with it. This is not a debatable topic but a fact based on pulse rates, basic heat/energy transfer physics, and thousands of tests! I was a competitive driving skills instructor and we demonstrated this several times a week! (we taught people to drive and not depend on abs) For my personal use, I left foot brake my car really hard and its not uncommon for and unweighted front tire to lock up. This could initiate ABS and would unsettle the car. Not really what I want when Im right next to another drift car at 65 mph!
As far as disconnecting the rear brakes, its just not worth it. I have a bias controller because I left foot brake, but just front brakes with the pedal is SCARY! The car does not respond like it should (or like you think its going to). Its also a safety concern.......What if the guy in front spins and you actually need to stop your car in a hurry. Can you honestly modulate the front and rear brakes separately with a pedal and hand lever to successfully avoid and accident? Maybe, but not worth it to me!
I would like to see that in life.
see what?
Under race track driving (which is the topic of discussion), ABS is an inferior system. We are talking about heavily unsettled cars, traveling at high speeds at strange angles on dry pavement with mixed tire sizes and compunds. Threshold braking will outperform ABS every time. Not to mention the unpredictability of ABS under these circumstances. If we were talking about the ABS system in a 2014 M3 then it would be a different story. 1994 325is has horrific ABS capability.
Wet or icy roads with my wife in her daily, hell yes I want ABS!
Is there a proportioning valve in the 90s vintage bimmer brake systems with ABS? I'm guessing not, but if that is true, then you would probably want to install one and tune the front to rear bias to suit your driving preferences.
I'm pondering ditching the ABS from my e39 at some point, since I'm not a huge fan of ABS for performance driving applications.
So did you ditch the e39 abs pump? Any diy? I'm thinking of it too.
Im 99% sure the proportioning valve is built in to the ABS pump, so when you delete it you really should install an aftermarket one. I deleted mine, but I also made all new hard lines from scratch to plumb in the proportioning valve / hydro handbrake.
http://www.chasebays.com/chase-bays-...36-inbay-oemc/
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Lol, in every one of these threads there is someone who loves the factory ABS so much.
i've left mine on and this last event i finally experienced some weird behavior while trying to slow the car by left foot braking. Time for a delete on my end i guess.
13 Grand Cherokee Limited V8 - Daily Driver - Wife
97 Z3 2.8 Roadster
95 325i Sedan - Project #ebayE36
90 BMW 535i/5 - i should probably work on this again...
Does anyone know if you can cure the unpredictability of ABS in a drift car by just pulling the fuse?
That's all I did and it's never been an issue to me in the past 3 years of driving.
Awesome, I thought so, but I tend to overthink stuff.
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