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Thread: Good deal on 535i manual, am I out of my league trying to fix it?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
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    Cincinnati
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    My Cars
    1991 325ix sedan

    Good deal on 535i manual, am I out of my league trying to fix it?

    Heres the deal, I have the option to purchase a really good condition 535i manual trans car on the cheap. I'm talking like under a grand. No rust, good paint, runs like a top, good tires and brakes, brand new suspension all the way around. Extensive maintenance history. Has rear LSD option too. Drives really nice!

    Of course there is ALWAYS a catch. There are three problems with it, two minor, one semi-major. The drive side window is off track, probably needs a regulator which doesn't bother me too much, $50 to 100 bucks and a nice DIY project for me. The rear passenger side door skin is off for....reasons. I'll get to that in a second.

    Someone broke the rear passenger window to get the aftermarket stereo out of the car. The owner replaced the window himself, but was to lazy to put the door skin back on. They also snagged the air con unit and the trip computer. They cut all the wiring harnesses. The owner said the heat and the A/C worked fine before they got the controller unit, but I have no way of knowing 100%.

    I can rebuild an engine in my sleep, but I am a total newbie when it comes to wiring. I once did a 3800 supercharged swap into a fiero, but paid a guy $750 dollars to do the wiring harness. I'm just stupid when it comes to wiring diagrams I guess.

    I got a couple pictures of the damage. My question is does anyone have any experience with this sort of thing, and lets say worse case scenario even if I get the air con unit wired in correctly and the heater is still busted, what would I be looking at to get a shop to have it all fixed it up? I did some researched and it looks like the heater valves are a common issue on these cars. Being winter, even though I wouldn't drive it when it's snow, ice, and salty out, I absolutely would need defog on clear, cold days. I can live without cold A/C for the time being.







  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
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    Butte, Montana
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    Find another harness section and using the proper terminals, repair it one at a time. You don't need a wiring diagram, you already have all the colors laid out in front of you, just match them up. Get the harness sections from another car from the same year.

    You'll want to use crimp sleeves and shrink tube. I wouldn't use normal butt connectors because you'll make a 20 mile wide bulge in the harness that way. They're your basic butt connectors without the plastic surround.

    Go ahead and bite. Plenty for everyone.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
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    NW suburban Chicago
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    hiss by my window
    I could probably help with most of these parts you need. The A/C controls changed over the years, knowing more about your car would help, year and last 7 of the VIN.
    I have a LR black inner door panel I'd be pleased to sell cheap, with more info I could look into those wire connectors and A/C control, OBC.

    If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Kettering,OH
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    5,128
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    e34 535i and 98 528i
    I have the parts you need and I am in Dayton so you can come look at how the parts are in the car.


    Andy

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
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    Quote Originally Posted by south42 View Post
    I have the parts you need and I am in Dayton so you can come look at how the parts are in the car.


    Andy

    There you go!

    If you can leave two black stripes from the exit of one corner to the braking zone of the next, you have enough horsepower. - Mark Donohue

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
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    Albany, ny, usa
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    96 M3. 94 E34. 98 750il
    Personally, id solder everything and use a hear shrink tube over each solder connection. It will take twice as long as using crimps. I hate crimps. I hate butt connectors more. definately dont use butt connectors.
    "**if you suck at driving, it certainly could put you into a curb. Don't suck."

  7. #7
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by mboor View Post
    Personally, id solder everything and use a hear shrink tube over each solder connection. It will take twice as long as using crimps. I hate crimps. I hate butt connectors more. definately dont use butt connectors.
    I think what you mean to say is "don't use these:"


    I was saying to use these:

    They're both butt connectors, because they butt the two ends of wire together. The ones I mention you can crimp and then solder. They shouldn't be much larger than the diameter of the insulation on the wiring you're repairing, and yes, shrink wrap after.

    Go ahead and bite. Plenty for everyone.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
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    96 M3. 94 E34. 98 750il
    Yes, thats exactly what i was trying to say. I thought you were talking about a different style crimp connector. The style you are suggesting will provide a proper wire repair once soldered and heat shrinked, with out making a mess of the wiring harness.
    "**if you suck at driving, it certainly could put you into a curb. Don't suck."

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Cincinnati
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    10
    My Cars
    1991 325ix sedan
    Well I hate to say it but the owner sold it this morning, just emailed me to say it was sold. You snooze you lose I guess. It would of been a good car and I think I could of fixed it cheaply too. Oh well, thanks for the replies guys.

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