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Thread: 745 Out from 15 year hibernation...Help Please

  1. #1
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    745 Out from 15 year hibernation...Update!

    Hello All,

    I am not new to The Forums, I am more of a lurker. I am the New owner of this 84 745i, it seems so be in good shape but it has been laid up for awhile. The cars runs and drives. It has 37k miles on the clock so it has not seem much use at all, the car came from a good friend and is a one family owned car. I am not new to BMWs but really am not as familiar as i should be on the turbo e23s.

    So Far the problems i have are as follows:

    -The idle is high, it sits at 1500 rpms shortly after starting, I believe it to be the AFM but not 100% sure

    -The rear suspension is sagging, there is no fluid in the rear. Wondering what fluid it takes. I can Hear it pumping, at least i think i can. I have new Febi Spheres for the rear.

    -Once Driving it will boost normally and run normally until i really apply the gas pedal, then it bogs down and wants to die until i let off pedal. Sometimes it feels like it is starving for fuel once driving for about 30-45 mins. Once it starts doing this it is hard to start up again until it cools off.

    -The cat has on two occasions has started glowing red. On these two occasions i was letting car idle trying to clear out the rest of the old gas out of the system.

    I have yet to take the car too far from home as i don't trust it yet. Trying to build up some good karma with it, i will set about changing the oil and the plugs as i am not sure when the last time it was done. It is not a executive model but that is just me nitpicking it. I love the car and want to preserve it as best i can. It should be noted i did not get the car running, i am not sure if the fuel pumps were changed out but i know he drained to tank. I have filled it up with some V-power and dumped some Liqui-moly Jectron and Valve cleaner in the tank. The car feels strong otherwise considering how long it has sat.


    Sorry for the long winded post but wanted to let you guys know as much details as possible. Here are a couple of pictures of it, ,Thank you for reading


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    Last edited by zdmcman; 05-27-2018 at 04:23 PM. Reason: Editing title

  2. #2
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    Any interior shots? Does the odometer actually work? This is the lowest mile 745i that I am aware of currently!

    Stop driving it until you replace everything rubber under the hood and fuel system related.

    The catalyst is either plugged or you are dumping fuel. Probably both.
    I make E23 parts.
    09/1983 745i (stolen spring '13 around Houston, TX Achatgruen on nutria buffalo. 8481080)
    10/1984 745i
    11/1984 745i
    11/1984 735i (10:1-265/6)
    Ford, MB, and GM round out the pack.



  3. #3
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    I agree with Eric. Replace all the rubber lines. When I got my 745 a couple of years ago, all the fuel lines were original, and leaky. Same with the vac lines.

    Also, get rid of the cat. These cars did not come with one. The one on my car was so plugged up, it would only make 2 pounds of boost.

    Fantastic car. Can't wait to see more pics!

    1989 635CSi Alpinewieß
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  4. #4
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    Welcome to the forum.

    That's a good looking car. I love these in black.

    Follow Eric's advice and you're well on your way.

    Post some more pics when you have the time.


    Troy

  5. #5
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    www.e38.org/e23 will help you get the grilles looking as nice as the rest of the car.

    the last 7 of the VIN will get you the build sheet for the car, which can also be found stapled to a support in the seat bottom of the right side of the back seat.

    That car is of an age and use level that many of the engine electrical connections would benefit from the use of Deoxit D5 or D100 available at Guitar Center. It is from Caig, check their website for lots of good information.

    I believe Matt's 745i may still be a lower mileage vehicle but I haven't read anything new about it in years.
    http://www.mcsmk8.com/745/745.htm

  6. #6
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    Agreed with the others, a glowing cat means its plugged up and if its plugged up that would also cause power issues.

    A wideband O2 would really help in trying to dial your air/fuel in correctly.


    Quote Originally Posted by 8991XJ View Post
    I believe Matt's 745i may still be a lower mileage vehicle but I haven't read anything new about it in years.
    http://www.mcsmk8.com/745/745.htm
    Pretty sure he sold that car
    2000 BMW M5 Evolve Alpha-N Tune, Evolve Carbon Fiber CAI's, UUC Short Throw Shifter, Dinan Front STB, Dinan Rear Sway Bar
    2001 BMW 330i ​Dynavin N7 Pro

    1985 BMW 745i 18" Style 37's, Team745i Chip, Getrag 265/6, Clutchmasters FX-300, UUC Short Throw Shifter, Strut Tower Bar, Bilstein HD's ("Build" Thread")(SOLD)
    1986 BMW 735i Getrag 265/6 Swap, Strut Tower Bar, Bilstein HD's, Euro F/R Conversion, 3.46 L/S Diff (Scrapped)

    2016 Ford Mustang GT Performance Pack Stock
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  7. #7
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    Thanks guys for your words of wisdom! appreciate it, i have all the records and documentation for the car since day one. It supports the miles, but the odometer as with all old BMs it is not turning. I will get more interior and engine shots for you guys.

    I believe all the old rotten fuel lines have been changed but i will check all of them again. The gas that was in the car was of a good vintage, very ripe and sour smelling It took about 4 trips to the Gas station to dilute it with fresh gas. I will cut the cat off asap, the car feels like it wants to go but is being choked up so that hopefully will let the car breathe again.

    I have the useless stock TRX wheels, it is sitting on 17inch ARE wheels. Really would like to sort out the rear suspension, the way it sits now looks like i am carrying large amounts of lumber in the trunk!

    I have also been reading about predetonation, this has got me paranoid. Is there anyway to prevent that from happening? The PO has a seperate relay wired in for the fuel pump, so more investigation into what all he did could point to why i am getting so much fuel. The oil smells like old gas. I think the batteries in the cluster are dead as i have no speedo, the other gauges work but take about 10-20 minutes after the car is started to kick on.

    I will get more pictures for you guys today. Thanks again for taking the time out to read this and reply

  8. #8
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    Thumbs up

    Your SLS needs Aral Vitamol 1010 or Pentosin CHF 4548...both of which I am sure are LONG, long NLA. 7.1 Pentosin is what I would put in probably. If the system runs but does not rise the ass end, the pump leaks internally. You will be in luck as a board member rebuilds them or sends you the seals to do it yourself. I sent him a spare pump I had no use for to find this out. I will dig up his information.

    My 560SEL had a similar issue with a leaking SLS pump, once that was fixed the high pressure hose leaked. Both easy fixes. I used an ISO 46 hydraulic oil to test the system as it had a similar viscosity to the OE stuff. Once it worked properly, I then flushed the system and went back to the OEM oill.



    Here is the guy, Jay, that offers the service - http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...-Servo-Booster Disregard the bullshit in the thread.

    Probably should go ahead and do the booster while you are replacing hoses under the hood.
    Last edited by Hit Man X; 12-15-2014 at 04:01 PM.
    I make E23 parts.
    09/1983 745i (stolen spring '13 around Houston, TX Achatgruen on nutria buffalo. 8481080)
    10/1984 745i
    11/1984 745i
    11/1984 735i (10:1-265/6)
    Ford, MB, and GM round out the pack.



  9. #9
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    ^^Thank you for the advice, for some reason i feel the need to get the SLS working again instead of ripping it out. At least try to get it to work haha. I will contact the Member who rebuilds the pumps and send it away, is the pump under the spare tire by any chance?


    -Love the Big 126 Benzes, especially in Euro Flavor!
    Last edited by zdmcman; 12-17-2014 at 04:25 AM.

  10. #10
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    Left side of trunk, behind panel.
    I make E23 parts.
    09/1983 745i (stolen spring '13 around Houston, TX Achatgruen on nutria buffalo. 8481080)
    10/1984 745i
    11/1984 745i
    11/1984 735i (10:1-265/6)
    Ford, MB, and GM round out the pack.



  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by zdmcman View Post
    ^^Thank you for the advice, for some reason i feel the need to get the SLS working again instead of ripping it out. At least try to get it to work haha. I will contact the Member who rebuilds the pumps and send it away, is the pump under the spare tire by any chance?


    -Love the Big 126 Benzes, especially in Euro Flavor!

    Honestly if my car still had a complete SLS I'd try to keep it working to. My car has 733i rear coils and if I even try to use my car to carry more than 1 passenger (you know, like it was made for) I get tire rub on sharp turns.
    2000 BMW M5 Evolve Alpha-N Tune, Evolve Carbon Fiber CAI's, UUC Short Throw Shifter, Dinan Front STB, Dinan Rear Sway Bar
    2001 BMW 330i ​Dynavin N7 Pro

    1985 BMW 745i 18" Style 37's, Team745i Chip, Getrag 265/6, Clutchmasters FX-300, UUC Short Throw Shifter, Strut Tower Bar, Bilstein HD's ("Build" Thread")(SOLD)
    1986 BMW 735i Getrag 265/6 Swap, Strut Tower Bar, Bilstein HD's, Euro F/R Conversion, 3.46 L/S Diff (Scrapped)

    2016 Ford Mustang GT Performance Pack Stock
    2004 Mercury Marauder
    Eaton M112, 3.4 Billetflow upper, Accufab SBTB + Plenum, 4.10's, Stainless Works LT's, 2.5" Exhaust, Borla Stingers, FX-R projectors, Addco F/R swaybars
    2003 Mercury Marauder JLT CAI, SCT Xcal4, Stainless Works LT's, SW 2.5" Catback
    1996 Ford Bronco
    4" lift, 35" BFG A/T's, MH1 projectors

  12. #12
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    Hi, any updates on reviving your 745? Did you cut the cat? Any pics?

    Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

  13. #13
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    He hasn't posted in a while so I suspect the car has either been sitting or sold. That car looks like it might be worthy of all the effort to make it a solid driver.


    95 BMW M3 Alpine-
    <GO...JIC Cross Coilovers- UUC RCAB, AKG FCAB, Rogue Engineering TM bushings- AA Gen3 Exhaust- Dinan F&R Strut Bars- Dinan F&R Sway Bars- X-Brace- Mishimoto Rad- BBS RK 17x8"- TRM Chip- Dinan BBTB- DIY CAI- JP Performance Headers- 21.5 injectors- JB Racing Flywheel- Bimmerworld TB boot- 540i MAF><SHOW...OE euro clear exterior lights- Depo w/ HID- Hurricane Alcantara interior- Stereo (Kenwood,Sony,MB Quart,Rockford Fosgate,JL Audio)- Black kidneys- Euro 3 Spoke- ZHP Knob- AutoDim Mirror>

  14. #14
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    Hello everybody!


    I have actually made some good progress on the 7, so I figured you guys deserve a update!

    So I started to really dig into the running issues I have had with the car. Figured to start with the basics.Popped the intank fuel pump out and voila! Old ugly rusty gas tank. Transfer pump was really rusty and dead.

    Finding a good used tank was very difficult so decided to repair the existingtank. Dropped the gas tank , cleaned with apple cider vinegar, then used KBS gas tank kit . I converted the two pumps to one intank pump going off a recommendation from one of hit man's post.

    Plopped the tank back on and was getting really high fuel pressure. I want to say something like 88 psi or something like that. Pulled the fuel rail off and 4 injectors plugged solid with crud. Sent them off to get rebuilt, changed rusty fuel rail. Got everything back on and bam! Idles normal, smooth running . very happy at this point as I finally had it running decent.


    Changed the plugs , valve cover gasket. Cleaned , applied some loctite to the oil spray bar bolts. Changed the old oil and filter.

    The SLS system has been revived by simply adding fluid. It took a day for it to raise up. Initially filled up the resovoir but nothing happened so i suppose there was a bunch of air in the system. However I believe the pump is leaking. I also need to install the spheres, definitely keeping the system intact.

    Once everything was running a few more issues popped up. Water pump was cranky and making nearly as much noise as the engine at idle.

    Coolant was old and brown . changed water pump, coolant hoses and flushed the system. Coolant is holding its color so I hope everything is ok in that department.alternator was trying to make a break for it so upgraded to the poly bushings.

    At this stage the brake pads in the rear were starting to make a very bad noise , so replaced pads and rotors front and rear.

    Right now I am in the process of replacing the nicad cluster batteries to get my gauges working. I am a bit nervous driving the car without being able to read the temperature.


    Also have a oil leak near the oil fiter housing that I have yet to investigate and the AFM has been messed with, there is a screw holding the gear and spring.

    overall the car does run really well, turbo works good and the engine and transmission feel healthy. Everything is stock and has not been modified as far as I know.

    So sorry for the long winded update , I will post photos soon

  15. #15
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    Thumbs up

    Hey! Talk about a long term update



    Post a pic of the AFM inside. Order a wideband. https://www.amazon.com/AEM-30-4110-U...s=aem+wideband
    I make E23 parts.
    09/1983 745i (stolen spring '13 around Houston, TX Achatgruen on nutria buffalo. 8481080)
    10/1984 745i
    11/1984 745i
    11/1984 735i (10:1-265/6)
    Ford, MB, and GM round out the pack.



  16. #16
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    Will snap some updated photos and a photo of the AFM.


    It has been awhile but I am relieved and glad I did not give up on it, I really love it!

  17. #17
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    Anybody have a spare si board? The one in my cluster is toast, battery acid destroyed it.

  18. #18
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    Hey everybody,

    Just posting up some photos of the current state of the car, also a photo of the AFM number .

    I currently have the cluster out to fix my non working gauges.still looking for a si board, will probably cave and buy programa's battery less option


    Also when I got the car the DME and everything mounted in near the DME (speaker,amp,Johnson box) is laying on the passenger floor. Have not had the courage to start putting everything back.

    The buffalo Hyde is in good shape however has lost most of its original color. There was a box sitting on the back seat for years and that is the colored spot on the back seat






















  19. #19
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    Thumbs up

    022 is the correct 745 AFM for the 05/83 to 05/86 cars.

    Get rid of that Johnson Box. It is not helping you. They have fives wires:

    12V
    Ground
    Splice to ECU Pin 13 (brown/red)
    Splice to CTS (brown/red)
    Single wire O2 sensor

    Restore the wiring back to OEM configuration and I bet you the car will run far, far better. Buy an AEM wideband and set the idle mixture to about 14:1 at 800rpm with car fully warmed up and pulling about 17" of vacuum. Yes, the car lean cruises at 65-75mph. NORMAL. Hurts nothing. Toss that charcoal canister under the hood too, that was just added for visual good feelings for Big Brother.

    I have a working SI board from a parts car dated 1996 if interested and gears from Jeff Caplan aka Odometer Gears.com
    I make E23 parts.
    09/1983 745i (stolen spring '13 around Houston, TX Achatgruen on nutria buffalo. 8481080)
    10/1984 745i
    11/1984 745i
    11/1984 735i (10:1-265/6)
    Ford, MB, and GM round out the pack.



  20. #20
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    hitman: thank you for your advice! Will let you know on the spare parts soon.

    As far as the Johnson box , is it as simple as disconnecting the wires going to it and connecting them back to stock? Wiring is not one of my strengths but am learning as I go.


    The aem wideband sounds like a vital thing to have, would this replace the Johnson box?

    Also the car does have a cat but since I have sorted the fuel injection all seems well. I feel like I should chop it off anyway.

    If you look closely at the AFM photo with cover off you can see there is a screw holding the gear and in place . without that screw the spring won't hold tension.

  21. #21
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    Thumbs up

    Correct on Johnson Box, been a while since I removed one. I THINK wiring coloring is as follows:

    Red - 12V
    Black - Ground
    White - O2 signal, single wire
    Orange - TO ECU
    Yellow - TO CTS

    You basically want to reconnect whatever splice is on that brown/red wire from ECU Pin 13 to the CTS. That box was intended to manipulate the CTS signal to change the fuel mixture at part throttle via the O2 input. It is really interesting how the Valentine Radar guy made the thing. As the unit ages and sensors wear, it really causes running issues with the vehicle. It is mainly for more of those visual good-feelings I spoke of earlier. I have ONLY seen it on California based cars. Probably come across a dozen here in Texas, plus others I do not own. None had it.

    AEM is simply a monitor. It is about $160. The Johnson Box was an emissions control device.

    The catalyst is your call. A high quality 2" dual in/2" dual out will not restrict power at stock power levels or even elevated, even more flow is available with the 'spun' style units. There are oblong looking ones you could easily tuck under the vehicle that really flow great. The vehicle came without from the factory. Whether you go with or without, make sure your piping matches or exceeds OEM sizing and is mandrel bent.

    My guess that black screw in the AFM was used to hold the cog wheel at that exact position for a smog test OR a foolish 'mechanic' bent it trying to dial in the AFR because it 'ran rich at idle'. Guess what? All non emission BMWs of that vintage ran about 1.5% CO at hot idle! If that 'W' shaped spring is bad, I can just send you one off a junk AFM I have here.
    I make E23 parts.
    09/1983 745i (stolen spring '13 around Houston, TX Achatgruen on nutria buffalo. 8481080)
    10/1984 745i
    11/1984 745i
    11/1984 735i (10:1-265/6)
    Ford, MB, and GM round out the pack.



  22. #22
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    hitman: wow thank you for your very thorough explanation! You have cleared up a bunch of confusion I had. As I mentioned earlier the turbo m30s are very new to me.


    I will remove the Johnson box right away.we don't have smog here in Hawaii so I could get away with removing the cat.

    I basically would like to get it back to stock specs and press it into daily service. As much as I would love to turn the boost up a bit I am too paranoid about blowing the engine.


    I believe the previous owner thought the running issues the car had was due to AFM so he decided to mess with it. I will take you up on that spring !


    I have been itching to drive it but until i can read the temp in don't want to risk it.

  23. #23
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    The risk of higher boost is the head gasket. The motor can take it. And a proper refresh of the head would allow for added boost to a reasonable level to increase enjoyment.

  24. #24
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    8991xj: sorry for the late response, I have not messed with the car lately.


    I will not be touching the boost on it anytime soon , as I would like to get some enjoyment miles on it.


    Would refreshing the head with a upgraded head gasket and headbolts allow for reliable extra boost ? Is the stock head gasket metal? I have read that 15psi is the limit on a stock car.


    Thanks everyone, learning a bunch from you guys!

  25. #25
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    I was just commenting about our friend Duke of turboed E28 fame, torquing things down to the point of damaging the motor instead of letting the head gasket relieve the overpressure as he searched for the most. He has moved on and I'm sure the car has a more reasonable boost level and proper gasketing.

    You are probably right to use boost conservatively and enjoy the ride. A few extra pounds will just make you want more.

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