Damn...new oil thread. Rotella T6 full synthetic NOT for use in automobiles per Shell

[tptrsn]

Anything can run it. Maybe literally ANYTHING, haha... It's good oil. And oil isn't nearly as critical as the internet would have people believe.

That is a good question about whether anyone has actually been able to correlate a switch to one of these high zinc content oils to a cat failure within 20k miles or something.

[XAlt]

Anything can run it. Maybe literally ANYTHING, haha... It's good oil. And oil isn't nearly as critical as the internet would have people believe.

That is a good question about whether anyone has actually been able to correlate a switch to one of these high zinc content oils to a cat failure within 20k miles or something.

M1 0W40 in almost every new Euro car.

It doesn't happen.

[tiMASTER]

After reading more of the thread it seems there are parallel discussions...

I've run Mobil-1 20-50 in my (S52) ti since I put that motor in. I change oil, filter and air filter at the lights and half way through them. That's every 3-4K miles I guess.

I know I'm leaving some power on the table churning that oil but no problems to report.

The Bosch platinum +4 plugs are another story...

Any ugliness about Mobil-1 I should be aware of?

[XAlt]

After reading more of the thread it seems there are parallel discussions...

I've run Mobil-1 20-50 in my (S52) ti since I put that motor in. I change oil, filter and air filter at the lights and half way through them. That's every 3-4K miles I guess.

I know I'm leaving some power on the table churning that oil but no problems to report.

The Bosch platinum +4 plugs are another story...

Any ugliness about Mobil-1 I should be aware of?

No. Good oil, fairly good price. It's slightly thinner than the average 20w50 because Motorcyle.

I'd try 15w50 when it's colder and because it's a better deal usually. You do sacrifice holy zinc though.

[dk500]

Wait, what?

[R Shaffner]

FWIW:

I drove a '97 540/6 for many years and 200,000+ miles, until it got wrecked. BMW recommended Rotella 15W-40 for that model year, so that's what I put it in every time. I was usually good about changing the oil at 3-5,000 miles, but sometimes I neglected it and went longer than 5,000, up to 7,000.

The result? Never any oil-based problem. I had the plastic chain guides go out at 200,000, but everyone does. PLUS, my OSV never clogged! The original OSV never had to be cleaned, replaced, or by-passed.

So yes, I know the Rotella I used for years is made for diesel engines. That means it has more detergents. (Diesels are dirty.) And that's probably why my OSV stayed clean for so long.

After my '97 was wrecked I bought an '02 540 with 140,000 miles. Thinner synthetic oil was recommended for that car. And guess what? The OSV is completely clogged. Instead of being an oil separator, it became an "oil carburetor" -- adding lots of oil to the by-pass air as it flowed to the CCV. (I added an external OSV to fix the problem.)

So yes, I now put LL-01 synthetic in the '02, as BMW recommended. Seems like I should. But I can't help but wonder if it would be better to go go back to the Rotella 15W-40, with all the good detergents it has.

[tptrsn]

That's interesting, I might just go back to some 15w40 Rotella T4 or whatever "T" it is for the 540 this year with the turbo on it (assuming I get it driveable at some point).

When I lost the rod bearings in the other engine while using it, it was a 2.0L four-banger that I was cranking to 8,500rpms regularly, and always running over 20psi. And the big kicker is that it only held 4 quarts of oil... Seems like I usually put about 9 quarts in the big ole' lazy bimmer V8, so it should be happy.

[XAlt]

That's interesting, I might just go back to some 15w40 Rotella T4 or whatever "T" it is for the 540 this year with the turbo on it (assuming I get it driveable at some point).

When I lost the rod bearings in the other engine while using it, it was a 2.0L four-banger that I was cranking to 8,500rpms regularly, and always running over 20psi. And the big kicker is that it only held 4 quarts of oil... Seems like I usually put about 9 quarts in the big ole' lazy bimmer V8, so it should be happy.

This makes me feel good about overfilling to 9 quarts in my car. I can't hold the bottle steady, you know?

[tptrsn]

I do know! Having said that, I kind of do it on purpose.

[brian wolfpower]

I read many excellent reviews of Shell Rotella T6 wide-viscosity, full-synthetic heavy duty motor oil which fares well against all comers including Valvoline, Mobil one, etc. Iy is cheap at $21 bucks a gallon and when ordering 3 gallons, shipping to your home is free and those shopping at Wal-Mart know how hard it is to get anything in stock besides 10W-30. If you want 5W-40 0r 10W-50 on the shelf, forget it. By ordering 3 gallons at a time, you can get any viscosity you want and free shipping to your door. I have used Rotella T6 full synthetic in my 540 with great results. Admitted, I don't pay enough attention to specs on jugs. It is on Wal-Marts shelf right between Valvoline full synthetic and Mobile One. Jug say heavy duty Engine oil. I have older jugs that also say just HD engine oil. Now, ad on Wal-Mart shows just like my old jugs, the case that arrived at my door shows jugs saying HD engine oil, but upon opening case, the jugs NOW say HD DIESEL engine oil. I called Shell for their take and their official stance and I have email with man's name at Shell saying in no uncertain terms that Rotella T6 is for off road vehicles only such as diesel tractors. They claim Heavy Duty is synonymous with DIESEL and that since the year 200 when new federal phosphate regulations came into play, they officially do NOT recommend this oil for any automobile bearing a catalytic convertor. I know Wal-Mart is not aware of this and gives expensive shelf space in the automotive oil section. Lesson is to read specs, but Shell is purposely allowing consumers to belief their oil is automotive safe. Shell guy said you must switch to Pennzoil products to get a shell full synthetic for cars.

I know many swear by the pil spec. and would not use full syn. even in a 528, but Rotella is guilty of being misleading at best. Maybe BMW owners should be more savvy and spec oriented, but what about Joe Chevy owner who has no idea of the oil spec for his Cavalier and buys this. Do they really expect the average user to be able to recite their oil spec? My Bad completely, but I also think Shell is making absolutely bo attempt to indicate this is for diesel engines, farm tractors, etc,. Not for on-road vehicles. I have the official response which skirts the issue, but essentially says what I am telling you. Anyone else use Rotella T6 full synthetic in their non M5 cars?

The shell rotella t6
0w40
5w40
U can use in cars.
I use in cars trucks bikes wet clutchs. Air compressrs.
Pumps.
Use in everything
Don't let people and a lable
Fool you. Lol.
Great best all around oil....

[brian wofter]

Lol.
Yes use t6 in your car and truck
We use in every vehicle
Mowers pumps hydro's ect, even wet clutches motorcycles.

[brian wofter]

Cat converter?
People can believe that if u want
What's the exhaust got to do with oil in my engine
If its a oil burner oil running out the exhaust and smoking yes it would be hard on it,
Little humer ,l.o.l.

[f355spider]

Well, at least he has a heated garage. I'll convince him to get TWS one of these days.

I wonder about the viability of 0w40 in the S54 or other high revving engines. I don't like the fact it flows like water when cold and when the P.O. ran it in my M62, VANOS was a lot louder. But there's a lot of hype surrounding it too.

I'm also forced to keep stocking it for our 955 CS that suffers from cylinder scoring due to to oil starvation.

Sorry to bring up your old post, but I wanted to correct something....your understanding of synthetic oils is incorrect. In the case of a 0w-40 synthetic...it does not start out thin and get thicker with engine heat...it is the opposite. It starts out thick and thins with engine heat. The difference between a 0w-40 and say a 5w-40, is when you shut down the car at night, when you start in the morning (cold), the 0w-40 will start out less thick, than the 5w-40. Both will thin with engine heat to the viscosity of 40.

[Firstbmw528]

I currently run Mobil 1 but my dad swears by rotella in his cutlass I was glad to see this thread and it seems provided I am not burning oil it’s not really a danger to my cats and because it has so many detergents it would be good for my internals? Is that a correct assumption

[JaxPlanet]

Stick to your Mobile 1 and find other things to ponder

[geargrinder]

Sorry to bring up your old post, but I wanted to correct something....your understanding of synthetic oils is incorrect. In the case of a 0w-40 synthetic...it does not start out thin and get thicker with engine heat...it is the opposite. It starts out thick and thins with engine heat. The difference between a 0w-40 and say a 5w-40, is when you shut down the car at night, when you start in the morning (cold), the 0w-40 will start out less thick, than the 5w-40. Both will thin with engine heat to the viscosity of 40.

I don't think he was saying what you think he's saying. He just said "flows like water" to mean "comparatively much lighter at cold start therefore doesn't help the VANOS startup rattle vs a heavier oil". Doesn't mean he believes in reverse thermal visco properties.

[kyrix1st]

On our 18+ old cars, this may be the golden formula to use. Indy shop that races their E92 M3 also uses CJ-4 specified 5w-40. (Apparently offers the best protection and performance)