4300k angel eye bulbs

[bmv528ie39]

Feel free to use more robust buck modules. I would recommend waterproof ones but i wasnt ever able to source adjustable ones that accept DC input. FWIW i have been running my leds at 1.5 A for nearly two years and the new design at 2.3 amps for a couple months with the original current modules.

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[Mach540]

So do some LEDs run off like PWM DC current? Hence the "freq" requirement?

[Da Beemers]

Yeah, I noticed that too about the waterproof units. It seems backwards to not have the dc versions waterproof. I guess the logic is that the high voltage ac is dangerous with water, where the 12v is not. I'm sure there are some waterproof dc units out there, but the cooling would be an issue in an encased unit.

The freq thing is more specific to precision leds that hold a certain freq of light, for example IR. In order to put out just the perfect freq (750,808,940nm) the driver is freq calibrated, not a requirement for us in this application. The multicolor setups I think do use a pwm type signal, but I have not studied them.

[JaxPlanet]

I found this driver today: http://www.luxdrive.com/products/buc...09-led-driver/
Pros: Compact, waterproof, 18 awg
Cons: Price, fixed current (choose 1A, 1.4A or 2.1A)
Best price so far: http://www.ledsupply.com/led-drivers...-dc-led-driver

I am getting lost in the adjustments and I think an electronic novice like me would be better off with a fixed current driver like this one. Based on bmv528ie39's findings, it looks like the 1.4A is the best choice for me. He has proven the longevity of 1.5A and 1.4A is over twice the current my cheapo eBay drivers provided so it is a significant improvement. However, I am still very curious about running them over 2A so I want to learn more before deciding.

bmv528ie39, are there any signs of melting/burning in the housings or the light conduit?

[Da Beemers]

Since the ones he is using are still working, they should be fine. I tend to be overcautious with power systems and wiring. I'm also one of those guys that solders everything, and instead of regular shrinktube, I have to use the marine grade waterproof stuff. Then of course followed by Tesa tape, just so it looks right under the hood. Mainly because when I do something like this, I never want to even think about doing it again. Let us know how it turns out, remember: pics or it didn't happen

[JaxPlanet]

Done! Making 18w each now.

The drivers I mentioned above were too expensive so I used 1500mA LLD-L Mean Well drivers from http://www.ledsupply.com/ $5.49 each.
IMG_0251.JPG

[JPR10]

Done! Making 18w each now.

The drivers I mentioned above were too expensive so I used 1500mA LLD-L Mean Well drivers from http://www.ledsupply.com/ $5.49 each.
IMG_0251.JPG

Jax, that looks great. Do you mind offering a short write up of the components you used, where/how much, and the process you did to put it together?

Looking to do this sometime soon.

[JaxPlanet]

Jax, that looks great. Do you mind offering a short write up of the components you used, where/how much, and the process you did to put it together? Looking to do this sometime soon.

Thank you but bmv528ie39's instructions are the write up. The only thing I contributed was finding a cheap, fixed amp driver and I provided the price and source above. I chose a slightly warmer LED bulb but it came from the source bmv528ie39 provided at the start of the post. I used the exact same thermal adhesive. I already had a pair of cheap eBay LED AEs to mod but you can search eBay for "e39 AE LED" to find a pair. Last I checked, you could get a pair delivered for less than $14.

The only other things you need, which could be assumed from the instructions, are:
Wire, heat shrink, wire stripper/cutter, electrical solder, and a soldering iron which can be found at most hardware stores. Prices vary.

As with any application where there is vibration, solder your wires. Wire nuts and taped twists can come apart. Use heat shrink tubing to protect your soldered connections. I did this and then took it up a notch by putting webbed shielding over both wires and using bands of heat shrink tubing on the ends to hold it in place. Another approach would be to wrap the wires with MIL SPEC self-fusing silicone tape, which you can find at Amazon.com.

I suggest you read the whole post again, there is a lot to take in. If you still have questions, post them here.

[DakodaE39]

Awesome write up guys, I plan on doing this for my angel eyes too. After completing this LED build does it set check control messages inside the car computer? That's the only thing I don't want. I would love to build my own LED assembly like this, but I wouldn't like the car setting faults over it and saying my lights are out all the time.

[JaxPlanet]

An LED bulb looks like a burnt out halogen bulb to the LCM so it will tell you to check it. The solution is to tell the LCM not to check the bulb using a programming tool, like PA Soft (a.k.a. BMW Scanner). The tool is super cheap on eBay but you will need a Windows computer to use it. Here's a tutorial that includes a screenshot of the LCM settings: http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1067835

[javarithms]

OP/somebody else that has done this can you update the instructions? None of the pictures show up. I need to do this to my bulbs that have bite the bullet. Thanks.

[Dzyzus]

Perfect look.
Maybe some one find already made bright led with Warm White color - Not Amber and not White/Blue?

[Dzyzus]

Any one? :-)