I'm confused. Others seem to be successful at this setup.
Tires: 275/35-18
Rims: 18x10 ET 25
HM flares.
But, it's clear that the flares are not high enough to clear the tire under full compression.
After measuring, marking, and cutting for the HM flares, the yellow mark is where light rubbing occurred inside the fender well with my previous 255's. The solid line is the outline (outside edge) of the flare.
Travel-mark.jpg
275 tire width:
275width.jpg
The flares are wide enough, but don't allow enough fender height to be removed.
Specs are 900lb rear springs, rear ride height is a touch under 6".
Thoughts?
Last edited by aeronaut; 09-06-2021 at 02:33 PM.
2020-02-28 23.26.12.jpg2016-03-19 13.26.21.jpg
This is one reason I went with the 275/35/17 to help a small bit with ride height/fitment issues. My solution when I was running 275/40/17s was to jack it up to ensure no chance of contact and knurled the leading edge of the fender just in case. Thought I would weigh in since no one else has yet with my experience with 2 different flared e36's.
Dont know if this helps but shows the difference in fitment/ride height for the two setups possibly.
Last edited by olemiss540; 09-07-2021 at 08:12 AM.
Thanks! Yea, at least I know I"m not thinking about this all wrong.
I was thinking of tweaking ride height anyway. I've got a plan. Will update in my build thread if it all works. It'll look fine from 10'.
Toyo makes a RR in 285/30-18, which is right at 25" diam rather than 25.4 of this tire. But it's also nearly 1/2" wider.
5.1 lbs of stuff in 5lb bag.
I will be watching so I can get it right when I install the MCS's!
Roger that!
When do the MCS go in????
Probably this winter. Its been 2 years since she has been run on track in anger so going to shake her down at Putnam Oct and Barber in Nov since the current GC AD doubles are still functioning not in a big rush.
Thanks, good pics, and exactly how it should be done. I'll add one thing, I've tried as much as possible to keep the middle fender welded in also. It's actually part of the wheel well that one sees from the inside of the car. I'd think it's a small part of some structural strength.
I'd have to look at those Clinched flares again, but that may be the better option for the rears.
I went with clinched also....lots of room for activities. I am running 315 hoosiers on my m3/4/5 all around on bimmerworld 18x11 ta5r.
This is 295/30-18 on a 10.5" rim. The tire/wheel is jacked up all the way (no spring) until the tire is touching the inside of the fenderwell at the top. The tire does not touch anywhere else. However, I have not driven the car with this tire yet. I have however driven the car plenty with 285/30-18 with no rubbing anywhere.
And this is that same 295 setup under the V1 Hard Motorsports flares with some "spacers", again with no spring and the tire lightly touching the inside of the fenderwell at the top.
- - - Updated - - -
I'd love to see pics!
Nicely done, and thanks for the pictures. I need a lot of suspension travel in the rear even with 900lb springs. Damn bumpy carousel with ~20deg banking and 1.6G turn causes a lot of suspension compression.
Looks like my arches need to be an inch or more higher than yours, which means the ends of my flares can't be down flush with the top of the lower panel/strip. That's not the core problem with the HM's. The most obvious problem, is that the 2 rear flares were different. The recess for the trim was in a different place relative to the end of the flares.
These 2 flares are the same length, but I aligned the recesses to show how much offset they were, about 1". HM said, trim the end, but then the flares are different lengths.
While they simply would not consider there could be a problem with the flares, they did offer replacements or refund.
IMG_20210906_135947.jpg
Did they offer whether the replacements would have the same issue? That seems inexcusable and should be remedied by any decent/reputable company. Trimming them to fit makes them as aesthetically pleasing as a 100 dollar generic chinese flare.
Agreed. And nope. They never acknowledged the core problems I had. The majority of their responses were "they require trimming to install" said a different way each time.
Which is kinda my point. I'm ok with a little trimming, but they got to the point where, trimming, cutting, sanding, and custom fit is required and expected. Maybe expected for generic flares, but not for $420 flares designed for a very specific application.
With my current setup, my UCA is about 1" from making contact with the unibody, and that's with 4" tall springs and articulated lower perches. I don't see how you could achieve more bump travel without significant mods to the control arms or the unibody around the upper spring seat in addition to the upper inner fender area.
Last edited by jakermac; 09-15-2021 at 09:09 PM.
Divorced (OEM) rear.
All I know is, I had well defined rub marks from the 255s up into the outer rear fender. So I knew that's how high I had to cut the arch to clear 275s.
No spring bind, no suspension bind, no damper bind. (All were checked.) But yea, probably less than 1" UCA to chassis clearance, IIRC.
My arches are cut close to the height that the yellow E36 above is posted by golgo.
Here are the rub marks from the 255s, and how I determined the height to cut the arches.
IMG_20210831_123131.jpg
Bookmarks