One issue I think is people expect the head studs to be an issue. Why not assume they will be OK until there is data to prove otherwise.
Capital Driving Club Car # 102
How to turbo your car:
Step one. Install ecu and learn to tune and or have it tuned.
Step two. Install injectors and retune.
Step three. Install turbo parts and bits. get it running with out leaks. DO NOT DRIVE IT. Idling should be ok
Step four. Retune car
Step five enjoy
If you count the AN fittings required, you will find that you would need to add 4.
That's not saying that I wouldn't do that....just that it is added complexity to someone that would like to do it. I have something like 30 AN connections on my car....so that doesn't scare me one bit.
If you don't need the cooling though.....why add all that stuff...
makes sense.
Capital Driving Club Car # 102
How to turbo your car:
Step one. Install ecu and learn to tune and or have it tuned.
Step two. Install injectors and retune.
Step three. Install turbo parts and bits. get it running with out leaks. DO NOT DRIVE IT. Idling should be ok
Step four. Retune car
Step five enjoy
Plus to be honest the oil cooler t-stat is pretty cumbersome and heavy
Which is the beauty of a water to oil heat exchanger - no tstat needed. Faster warm ups, and as long as you have coolant cooling capacity, it will moderate high oil temps.
It's really not much added complexity IMO. You could even fab something up, as an aluminum tube of reasonable (~6-10") length is going to conduct enough heat to do the job IMO.
Last edited by PEI330Ci; 01-16-2018 at 11:34 PM.
Yep - exactly like that!
Why not use it? It sounds like it'd be perfect for what you're using it for. It's good enough for all the modern FI BMWs, why not go down the same path?
I'd use it - it's small, efficient, and cheap. N20 ftw.
The N55 cooler looks a lot like that too.
FYI, that was OEM the transmission cooler. I just added AN bungs to it....
Dry sump wouldn't need that.
Last edited by PEI330Ci; 01-17-2018 at 03:27 AM.
On another topic, in reviewing various ECU configuration tables....I realized I still have baseline dwell #s for my ignition coils. I've never gone back and "tuned" the setup.
Seems I might have been running a little bit more...
15v = 1.8ms
14V = 2.0ms
13V = 2.4ms
12v = 3.1ms
11v = 3.9ms
10v = 4.0ms
Last edited by PEI330Ci; 01-17-2018 at 05:47 AM.
You don’t need one unless you track the car or live in the desert. I’d view that thing as helpful in warming up the oil in the winter. If you don’t drive in winter, you don’t need it. If you just want to add a cooler and fittings and hoses to your car as another project, though, then go for it since it won’t do any harm unless it adds restriction but you could make another project out of testing restriction so you would get 2 projects out of this.
Maybe my next engine will be the aluminum version to save the 40 lbs difference if strength is not an issue for my low power build <800 whp.
I’d be more interested in the potential benefits of the dual vanos M54.
GTX4202 is my latest fascination....
The N52 engine actually looks really promising. Very light, bedplate design, very nice flowing head.
Is the turbo N54 related to the N52? As I recall the N54 head has smaller valves than our heads.
Valve size doesn't tell the whole story. SR20VE heads have smaller exhaust valves by 1 mm than SR20DET heads, but their exhaust flow is still up around 15% due to a higher port floor on exit and the subsequent larger short turn radius. The intake valves are the same size but the intake port flow is like +60% over the DET head.
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