I actually have the brackets, but am reluctant to use them. There is still a lot of wiring, and a few components left to install in the engine bay. Once this is done, I'll be able to finalize the nozzle locations. (Where they are aimed) There's no point locking the nozzle into a position, if something may end up blocking the spray path later....
I was in the middle of building the transmission harness earlier this week, but have taken my family on a vacation somewhere warm. I'll be back at it towards the end of the month...
The PN# for mine actually line up with stuff that fires rockets!
MIL connectors by Jon Kensy, on Flickr
Good work Adam - I am finding motivation to get back on my project...
Don't want to OT here so feel free to pm or call me but I have been doing great. Getting married this year, fiance started her physical therapy business and I started my shop, LukeG Werkshop. Hoping to sign a lease on a 5k sq/ft shop in the next few days so I'm pretty damn excited! It has been and will be a crazy year!
Luke
03 330i
The pins do come out and are replaceable but you need a special tool for it which I no longer have access to since I left my job at the DOD Contractor. I will be using the solder pins and then using the strain relief, etc.
Yeah I hope to do some car work soon. I've been busy doing pretty cool large scale infrastructure stuff at my new job and fixing my house lol.
Sorry, but I don't know him.
Martin Lepot is my "go to" guy in Halifax, although there is a phenomenal technician there named Steve Phillips who has a shop there in addition to being a crew guy for TRG.
Thank you
For my application, I trust them. It is far from "all-out".
I have another M54 engine project that I started before this one that is the "big" build.
I'm starting to be overwhelmed with all of my bulkheads, and connectors. When you look at a signal trace, it can have 3-4 segments of wire, which becomes very tricky to document. For example my current pin-out list is over 1,200 lines of connections!!!
Get back to the garage man!!!
My wife is sick of snow and needed a break, so we've gone on a little adventure.
Yeah man considering the ECU connector and the sensor connector (or whatever is on the other end), plus a bulkhead, maybe two, you've got between 4 - 6 places for fault vs 2 with a home run. And too, if you end up splitting sources or grounds or such, it can be a nightmare. Documentation is the only way you'll be able to get a handle on it. I've got a pretty wicked spreadsheet for the wiring on my car.
Marrying the PCS harness to the BMW transmission harnesses:
Completed harness:
PCS 63 pin connector revised with heat-shrink:
Transitions:
The 2 OEM harnesses for the gear selector position, and transmission control are tied into the main harness here:
Further weather-proofing of the OEM harness sections:
I dream of being so humble and knowledgeable!
So, mill spec connectors for the bulkheads, and deutsch connectors for everything else?
also, I was told the best option is to have bare terminals or butt connectors, but with heat shrink as well. I see you have an all in one package which seems nice.
I have to start on my harness this week, just making sure I don't want to re-due anything.
The Butt connectors are from TE, which I'm using 12, 16, and 20 awg types. They come in 2 pieces: The metal tube, and the heat shrink tube.
As previously pictured, there is a specific crimp tool for metal part, and the heat shrink tube is a multi component part with an outer shrink shell, and then each end has a "ring" of glue that bleeds out when you apply heat.
I should warn you, I spent about $700 on what's pictured above.
As far of the knowledge goes: I'm not the knowledgeable one...I just find smart people, and try to support their business.
Good call - I always use adhesive shrink and used the same butt splices only it didn't cost me $700
Good looking wiring but,Wow $700 on that crimp tool and those connectors is a bit much i must say. Someone is definitely making a pretty penny off of you!
1991 bmw 325I <e30>
First 8 second full body BMW with BMW independent rear suspension in the USA
8.69 @160mph in a 1/4mile on slicks.
drag radial tires record holder9.53@148. Also a world record holder for bmw overall 60-130mph 4.2 seconds.
Bistein sport susp,turner sway bars,3:25lsd,m52 AEM INFINITY stand alone. MORAN 2500cc injectors E85 ,front mount 33x12x4 intercooler, 5lug conversion M3 front,Mcoupe rear Dss axles/driveshaft ATI Proglide.
2003 Ford Expedition
1998 M3
1986 Mercedes Cosworth 190e 2.3 16v 5speed (sold)
...and I make a good living doing something else. There is nothing wrong with profit, if both parties are happy with the outcome. In this case, I am.
If anyone does shop around on these pieces, they will find that you can buy them in bags of 100 for about $1.30 each, or between $3 - $5 each as single pieces from most vendors. If you don't have hundreds of splices to make, and are careful with planning and construction, these can be utilized quite cost effectively. The price per contact is actually about the same as using DTM pins.
You are going to want to put zip ties right after your t's in your harness. Since you aren't using molded hard boots what happens in the engine bay is the glue lined shrink loosens up, and the harness pulls apart and looks like doo-doo.
This was taken with a potato years ago.
See the zip ties on the junctions? Copy that.
Also using the shrink-boot-capable dtm connectors adds style points.
Last edited by Mr Deagle; 03-25-2015 at 01:52 PM.
Thanks for the pointers.
I actually used zip ties to keep the glue lined shrink centered (in position) while applying heat to it. Otherwise, the shrink would walk up the harness....and you don't want to try to hold that in position with a bare hand until it cools down!!!!
The good news is that most of the transitions pictured sit outside of the engine compartment, so there isn't a lot of heat going to be present during operation.
For the ones inside the engine compartment, at least for now, I'll apply some high-spec zip ties.
I just received a supplies order today which included Kapton tape, and Raychem boots. So there is a little bit higher-spec stuff in the pipeline utilizing RT-125.
What are your plans for the kapton tape?
What's the advantage to those compared to these?
I usually use those + heatshrink. About $0.50/ea from BMW, and I'm sure they can be found cheaper from whoever makes them (probably TE). The crimper I have was pretty cheap and works well enough, though if I did as many as you, I'd probably spend a couple hundred on a high quality crimper.
Last edited by TerraPhantm; 03-25-2015 at 03:12 PM.
A couple of things.
You wrap the Kapton tape under where the Raychem boots will be shrunk, apply RT-125, then shrink the boot on top of it. The tape forms a barrier between the wires and the RT-125 so you can open things up later for service if required.
The tape also is great for keeping wires bundled together after concentric twisting, then applying Kevlar strand.
Okay. I'm not sure if I'm looking for aerospace quality, I'm simply looking for a quality solution that will absolutely last through the street/race car environment, and is easy to work with, and relatively affordable(saving time is money as well!)
But if this requires aerospace stuff, so be it.
But this is what I have been using the last couple years and I haven't had a problem yet. I mean, it's only been a few years though.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#electrical-...plices/=wgv9nv
These little puppies are dirt cheap and work really nice. Not sure why you would want a connector that's open? These are soooo easy to use with there crimper that is ratcheting.
It locks in place so you can do crimp connections with one hand. Super nice.
The crimper also have interchangeable dies, so I have one for weather pack and duetsche connectors.
Is something like this acceptable? Plus some real quality heat shrink? There are soooo many options my mind is exploding.
They are just different.
One was designed for aerospace, one was designed for automotive.
I chose the option I'm using primarily because it has engineered most of the the end user's acuity and dexterity out of the equation. Either the wire is in the hole, or it's not.
I would order a couple of each, and then try them to decide what you are comfortable installing.
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