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Thread: E46 330i Automatic - M54B30 Turbo

  1. #101
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Deagle View Post
    Zip ties holding the fire nozzles in place, but "fireproof sheath" over the piping? Shouldn't they have nice little formed brackets riveted or welded in place?
    I actually have the brackets, but am reluctant to use them. There is still a lot of wiring, and a few components left to install in the engine bay. Once this is done, I'll be able to finalize the nozzle locations. (Where they are aimed) There's no point locking the nozzle into a position, if something may end up blocking the spray path later....



    Quote Originally Posted by Nutzy View Post
    Get her running already! I'm so dead keen to see how the auto holds up. I've been searching and searching and sending emails to trans shops here and abroad, but no one seems to be able to help me when I say either 5L40E or ZF5HP19. So annoying.

    Epic build though, totally love it.
    I was in the middle of building the transmission harness earlier this week, but have taken my family on a vacation somewhere warm. I'll be back at it towards the end of the month...

  2. #102
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    Quote Originally Posted by PEI330Ci View Post
    I actually have the brackets, but am reluctant to use them. There is still a lot of wiring, and a few components left to install in the engine bay. Once this is done, I'll be able to finalize the nozzle locations. (Where they are aimed) There's no point locking the nozzle into a position, if something may end up blocking the spray path later....





    I was in the middle of building the transmission harness earlier this week, but have taken my family on a vacation somewhere warm. I'll be back at it towards the end of the month...
    Enjoy the vacation with the family, Adam.

    --Peter

  3. #103
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    Quote Originally Posted by LukeG View Post
    Fantastic read! I forgot what it's like to be genuinely glued to reading a thread.

    Luke!


    Long time no hear. Lol. How have you been.




    To Adam, I'm speechless as usual. The work is art, IMO.
    This is my signature....

  4. #104
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    Quote Originally Posted by auaq View Post
    There's got to be a switch that deploys two rockets out of the front kidney grilles to clear paths in front of you, no?
    The PN# for mine actually line up with stuff that fires rockets!

    MIL connectors by Jon Kensy, on Flickr

    Good work Adam - I am finding motivation to get back on my project...


  5. #105
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    Quote Originally Posted by 5mall5nail5 View Post
    The PN# for mine actually line up with stuff that fires rockets!

    MIL connectors by Jon Kensy, on Flickr

    Good work Adam - I am finding motivation to get back on my project...
    Jon,

    Do those pins come out, or is the wire termination solder based?

    I miss seeing car-related updates from you....

  6. #106
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    Quote Originally Posted by BadBoostedBmwM3 View Post
    Luke!


    Long time no hear. Lol. How have you been
    Don't want to OT here so feel free to pm or call me but I have been doing great. Getting married this year, fiance started her physical therapy business and I started my shop, LukeG Werkshop. Hoping to sign a lease on a 5k sq/ft shop in the next few days so I'm pretty damn excited! It has been and will be a crazy year!
    Luke
    03 330i

  7. #107
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    Do you happen to know Mark Griffin @ Griffin Motors ? it's in halifax..
    he is interested in my 99 TT stage 2 M3.. seem to be a really good guy !

    look like the atlantic region buy every nice car, I actually sold my previous 1999 alpinewhite M3 to someone from PEI...
    _____________________________


  8. #108
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    Awesome stuff. Being a mechanical engineer, the attention to detail is unmatched. Keep it going and I'm sure it'll meet your goals in the end.


    96 328is turbo
    98 Hellrot M3/4/5

  9. #109
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    Quote Originally Posted by PEI330Ci View Post
    Jon,

    Do those pins come out, or is the wire termination solder based?

    I miss seeing car-related updates from you....
    The pins do come out and are replaceable but you need a special tool for it which I no longer have access to since I left my job at the DOD Contractor. I will be using the solder pins and then using the strain relief, etc.

    Yeah I hope to do some car work soon. I've been busy doing pretty cool large scale infrastructure stuff at my new job and fixing my house lol.


  10. #110
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    Quote Originally Posted by PEI330Ci View Post
    I was in the middle of building the transmission harness earlier this week, but have taken my family on a vacation somewhere warm. I'll be back at it towards the end of the month...
    So you are saying PEI is not toasty warm this time of year?

    Enjoy the time off!
    -Nick
    91 E30 M42 on VEMS

    Turbo Camshaft Thread

  11. #111
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    Quote Originally Posted by gnarfy View Post
    Do you happen to know Mark Griffin @ Griffin Motors ? it's in halifax..
    he is interested in my 99 TT stage 2 M3.. seem to be a really good guy !

    look like the atlantic region buy every nice car, I actually sold my previous 1999 alpinewhite M3 to someone from PEI...
    Sorry, but I don't know him.

    Martin Lepot is my "go to" guy in Halifax, although there is a phenomenal technician there named Steve Phillips who has a shop there in addition to being a crew guy for TRG.

    Quote Originally Posted by bmw328m52 View Post
    Awesome stuff. Being a mechanical engineer, the attention to detail is unmatched. Keep it going and I'm sure it'll meet your goals in the end.
    Thank you

    Quote Originally Posted by nhcg View Post
    Did you simply reuse m54 rods? Seems weird especially on such an all out build. Granted if you know something I don't please enlighten me for my set of b30 rods.
    For my application, I trust them. It is far from "all-out".

    I have another M54 engine project that I started before this one that is the "big" build.

    Quote Originally Posted by 5mall5nail5 View Post
    The pins do come out and are replaceable but you need a special tool for it which I no longer have access to since I left my job at the DOD Contractor. I will be using the solder pins and then using the strain relief, etc.

    Yeah I hope to do some car work soon. I've been busy doing pretty cool large scale infrastructure stuff at my new job and fixing my house lol.
    I'm starting to be overwhelmed with all of my bulkheads, and connectors. When you look at a signal trace, it can have 3-4 segments of wire, which becomes very tricky to document. For example my current pin-out list is over 1,200 lines of connections!!!

    Get back to the garage man!!!

    Quote Originally Posted by wazzu70 View Post
    So you are saying PEI is not toasty warm this time of year?

    Enjoy the time off!
    My wife is sick of snow and needed a break, so we've gone on a little adventure.

  12. #112
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    Quote Originally Posted by PEI330Ci View Post
    I'm starting to be overwhelmed with all of my bulkheads, and connectors. When you look at a signal trace, it can have 3-4 segments of wire, which becomes very tricky to document. For example my current pin-out list is over 1,200 lines of connections!!!

    Get back to the garage man!!!
    Yeah man considering the ECU connector and the sensor connector (or whatever is on the other end), plus a bulkhead, maybe two, you've got between 4 - 6 places for fault vs 2 with a home run. And too, if you end up splitting sources or grounds or such, it can be a nightmare. Documentation is the only way you'll be able to get a handle on it. I've got a pretty wicked spreadsheet for the wiring on my car.


  13. #113
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    Marrying the PCS harness to the BMW transmission harnesses:



    Completed harness:



    PCS 63 pin connector revised with heat-shrink:



    Transitions:



    The 2 OEM harnesses for the gear selector position, and transmission control are tied into the main harness here:



    Further weather-proofing of the OEM harness sections:


  14. #114
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    I dream of being so humble and knowledgeable!



    So, mill spec connectors for the bulkheads, and deutsch connectors for everything else?

    also, I was told the best option is to have bare terminals or butt connectors, but with heat shrink as well. I see you have an all in one package which seems nice.

    I have to start on my harness this week, just making sure I don't want to re-due anything.

  15. #115
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    Quote Originally Posted by rowleym View Post
    I dream of being so humble and knowledgeable!



    So, mill spec connectors for the bulkheads, and deutsch connectors for everything else?

    also, I was told the best option is to have bare terminals or butt connectors, but with heat shrink as well. I see you have an all in one package which seems nice.

    I have to start on my harness this week, just making sure I don't want to re-due anything.
    The Butt connectors are from TE, which I'm using 12, 16, and 20 awg types. They come in 2 pieces: The metal tube, and the heat shrink tube.





    As previously pictured, there is a specific crimp tool for metal part, and the heat shrink tube is a multi component part with an outer shrink shell, and then each end has a "ring" of glue that bleeds out when you apply heat.

    I should warn you, I spent about $700 on what's pictured above.

    As far of the knowledge goes: I'm not the knowledgeable one...I just find smart people, and try to support their business.

  16. #116
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    Good call - I always use adhesive shrink and used the same butt splices only it didn't cost me $700


  17. #117
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    Good looking wiring but,Wow $700 on that crimp tool and those connectors is a bit much i must say. Someone is definitely making a pretty penny off of you!
    1991 bmw 325I <e30>
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  18. #118
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    Quote Originally Posted by djborya View Post
    Good looking wiring but,Wow $700 on that crimp tool and those connectors is a bit much i must say. Someone is definitely making a pretty penny off of you!
    ...and I make a good living doing something else. There is nothing wrong with profit, if both parties are happy with the outcome. In this case, I am.

    If anyone does shop around on these pieces, they will find that you can buy them in bags of 100 for about $1.30 each, or between $3 - $5 each as single pieces from most vendors. If you don't have hundreds of splices to make, and are careful with planning and construction, these can be utilized quite cost effectively. The price per contact is actually about the same as using DTM pins.

  19. #119
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    You are going to want to put zip ties right after your t's in your harness. Since you aren't using molded hard boots what happens in the engine bay is the glue lined shrink loosens up, and the harness pulls apart and looks like doo-doo.

    This was taken with a potato years ago.



    See the zip ties on the junctions? Copy that.

    Also using the shrink-boot-capable dtm connectors adds style points.
    Last edited by Mr Deagle; 03-25-2015 at 01:52 PM.

  20. #120
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Deagle View Post
    You are going to want to put zip ties right after your t's in your harness. Since you aren't using molded hard boots what happens in the engine bay is the glue lined shrink loosens up, and the harness pulls apart and looks like doo-doo.

    This was taken with a potato years ago.



    See the zip ties on the junctions? Copy that.

    Also using the shrink-boot-capable dtm connectors adds style points.
    Thanks for the pointers.

    I actually used zip ties to keep the glue lined shrink centered (in position) while applying heat to it. Otherwise, the shrink would walk up the harness....and you don't want to try to hold that in position with a bare hand until it cools down!!!!

    The good news is that most of the transitions pictured sit outside of the engine compartment, so there isn't a lot of heat going to be present during operation.

    For the ones inside the engine compartment, at least for now, I'll apply some high-spec zip ties.

    I just received a supplies order today which included Kapton tape, and Raychem boots. So there is a little bit higher-spec stuff in the pipeline utilizing RT-125.

  21. #121
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    What are your plans for the kapton tape?

  22. #122
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    Quote Originally Posted by PEI330Ci View Post
    ...and I make a good living doing something else. There is nothing wrong with profit, if both parties are happy with the outcome. In this case, I am.

    If anyone does shop around on these pieces, they will find that you can buy them in bags of 100 for about $1.30 each, or between $3 - $5 each as single pieces from most vendors. If you don't have hundreds of splices to make, and are careful with planning and construction, these can be utilized quite cost effectively. The price per contact is actually about the same as using DTM pins.
    What's the advantage to those compared to these?



    I usually use those + heatshrink. About $0.50/ea from BMW, and I'm sure they can be found cheaper from whoever makes them (probably TE). The crimper I have was pretty cheap and works well enough, though if I did as many as you, I'd probably spend a couple hundred on a high quality crimper.
    Last edited by TerraPhantm; 03-25-2015 at 03:12 PM.

  23. #123
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Deagle View Post
    What are your plans for the kapton tape?
    A couple of things.

    You wrap the Kapton tape under where the Raychem boots will be shrunk, apply RT-125, then shrink the boot on top of it. The tape forms a barrier between the wires and the RT-125 so you can open things up later for service if required.

    The tape also is great for keeping wires bundled together after concentric twisting, then applying Kevlar strand.

  24. #124
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    Okay. I'm not sure if I'm looking for aerospace quality, I'm simply looking for a quality solution that will absolutely last through the street/race car environment, and is easy to work with, and relatively affordable(saving time is money as well!)

    But if this requires aerospace stuff, so be it.

    But this is what I have been using the last couple years and I haven't had a problem yet. I mean, it's only been a few years though.


    http://www.mcmaster.com/#electrical-...plices/=wgv9nv

    These little puppies are dirt cheap and work really nice. Not sure why you would want a connector that's open? These are soooo easy to use with there crimper that is ratcheting.


    It locks in place so you can do crimp connections with one hand. Super nice.

    The crimper also have interchangeable dies, so I have one for weather pack and duetsche connectors.



    Is something like this acceptable? Plus some real quality heat shrink? There are soooo many options my mind is exploding.

  25. #125
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    Quote Originally Posted by TerraPhantm View Post
    What's the advantage to those compared to these?



    I usually use those + heatshrink. About $0.50/ea from BMW, and I'm sure they can be found cheaper from whoever makes them (probably TE). The crimper I have was pretty cheap and works well enough, though if I did as many as you, I'd probably spend a couple hundred on a high quality crimper.
    They are just different.

    One was designed for aerospace, one was designed for automotive.

    I chose the option I'm using primarily because it has engineered most of the the end user's acuity and dexterity out of the equation. Either the wire is in the hole, or it's not.


    Quote Originally Posted by rowleym View Post
    Okay. I'm not sure if I'm looking for aerospace quality, I'm simply looking for a quality solution that will absolutely last through the street/race car environment, and is easy to work with, and relatively affordable(saving time is money as well!)

    But if this requires aerospace stuff, so be it.

    But this is what I have been using the last couple years and I haven't had a problem yet. I mean, it's only been a few years though.


    http://www.mcmaster.com/#electrical-...plices/=wgv9nv

    These little puppies are dirt cheap and work really nice. Not sure why you would want a connector that's open? These are soooo easy to use with there crimper that is ratcheting.


    It locks in place so you can do crimp connections with one hand. Super nice.

    The crimper also have interchangeable dies, so I have one for weather pack and duetsche connectors.



    Is something like this acceptable? Plus some real quality heat shrink? There are soooo many options my mind is exploding.
    I would order a couple of each, and then try them to decide what you are comfortable installing.

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