E46 330i Automatic - M54B30 Turbo

[jakermac]

Great! Once you figure out that you only need ONE spare, and I start making enough power to need more than my Getrag, I'll be in touch!!

[e30kid89]

Great! Once you figure out that you only need ONE spare, and I start making enough power to need more than my Getrag, I'll be in touch!!

I have a zf coming out of my car, not sure what it would cost to ship, greyhound would probably be decently priced

[jakermac]

I have a zf coming out of my car, not sure what it would cost to ship, greyhound would probably be decently priced

Thanks for the thought but as I said, I haven't found the power limit on my original Getrag from 1993 and the 168mm diff I'm running. 270/240 at the wheels isn't it.

[e30kid89]

Thanks for the thought but as I said, I haven't found the power limit on my original Getrag from 1993 and the 168mm diff I'm running. 270/240 at the wheels isn't it.

You know where to find me

[5mall5nail5]

Yes, the S5D 320Z.

I will have 2 driveshafts as well...just in case. The goal being 500rwtq....they should last a little while.

Make sure to do the detent fix on them. Borrow a set of the drifts and then copy them on your lathe - definitely worthwhile to have. ZF310Z did not have the detent issue fwiw.

[PEI330Ci]

Make sure to do the detent fix on them. Borrow a set of the drifts and then copy them on your lathe - definitely worthwhile to have. ZF310Z did not have the detent issue fwiw.

Thanks for the reminder.

I'm going to order the tools from Thayer...along with kits to fix 2 transmissions.

The only thing I can't seem to find is a service manual for the S5D 320Z Transmission. Since I've got a trans that's currently "Bad", I can use that to learn how to tear this thing down...but I'd prefer some documentation if possible.

In other news....I've decided to give the GTX3076R a try with the Steed Speed Twinscroll. I've ordered a T4 1.06 A/R housing with Ceramic coating from Full Race. I've also ordered another Tial MVR, which is more of a long term plan, but I do plan on at least trying the GTX3076R with a single WG on the SS to see if it will work. (Some have suggested that the added restriction of the small turbine & housing will make boost control easier)

Racespeconline.com is sending me a couple of T-shirts and a Hoodie.
































Yeah...you guys don't care about that do you...

Other items in the box with the shirts:

6 - Motec 1/8" EGT sensors (One for each cylinder runner)
2 - AEM exhaust manifold back pressure kits. (One for each cylinder bank)
5 - "Fast" Air Temp sensors (Pre-Turbo, Post Turbo, Post IC, Pre-TB, Spare)

The Steed Speed is going to get cut up a bit to mount the above sensors, but I don't plan on having it re-coated yet. If I can't get the boost down under 10psi with the GTX30 and single WG, I'm going to cut off the existing WG flange, and add 2 Tial MVRs in new locations. After that....I'd send it to SS for a re-coating session. I'm also seriously looking at buying a Mainline Dyno.

[VormDK]

I have been looking for documentation on the the S5D 320Z as well - no luck. I plan to take it apart and replace syncros, and attempt to invert 4th gear to make an over-drive.

If you do take it apart, will you do the world the huge favor of documenting it as thoroughly as you have done everything else?

[pbonsalb]

Why would you want under 10 psi from a gtx30? I thought you were building a race car.

[PEI330Ci]

I have been looking for documentation on the the S5D 320Z as well - no luck. I plan to take it apart and replace syncros, and attempt to invert 4th gear to make an over-drive.

If you do take it apart, will you do the world the huge favor of documenting it as thoroughly as you have done everything else?

I will try. Last month I knocked my tripod over and my camera smashed into the cement floor. It cracked the D700 housing, and also the lense barrel. Fixing the lens is a $700 bill, and the camera body I still haven't got an estimate for...but it will be big. Nikon is usually pretty good with this stuff....but I don't know if I'll have my gear back before I start tearing stuff apart. Fingers crossed...

Why would you want under 10 psi from a gtx30? I thought you were building a race car.

Good question.

Lets start with me putting 275/35/18 Toyo RA1 tires on the back of my 230rwhp 330Ci, and having them spin at the drag strip all the way through 1st gear.

With my engine build, I would put power somewhere around 300rwhp @ 5psi....so I've definitely got enough to be a problem. I'm running MPSS 245s on the street, and would like to be able to use boost by gear to help limit wheel spin in 1st and 2nd.

At the race track, I know that a 26 X 10.5 slick will start to slip with 400rwtq....so there's probably 15 psi at least in that....

Either way, I'm looking forward to testing it all out.

[Butters Stoch]

26x10.5 slick will hold 650+ TQ w/o slip if heated properly. Hell a 235/60/15 drag radial will hold 500+ if you get it sticky hot. But without heat, they will spin on stock power if under 65 deg.

[TheJuggernaut]

26x10.5 slick will hold 650+ TQ w/o slip if heated properly. Hell a 235/60/15 drag radial will hold 500+ if you get it sticky hot. But without heat, they will spin on stock power if under 65 deg.

Yep, racing tires are designed to handle higher heat than street but as a result they start out harder. Especially road racing tires like the RA1. They require at least a good half lap to come up to temperature, in the first turn they will feel scary to those used to street tires. So for drag racing I'd say they're nearly useless. I don't have any experience with drag slicks but from what you're saying it sounds like the same idea, you need to make them sticky.

[PEI330Ci]

26x10.5 slick will hold 650+ TQ w/o slip if heated properly. Hell a 235/60/15 drag radial will hold 500+ if you get it sticky hot. But without heat, they will spin on stock power if under 65 deg.

Are you really questioning if I know how to heat up a drag slick?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I7F5TdB06kM




And this is the other part of that run for anyone that is interested:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5R9hE7MnPyM

[Butters Stoch]

Are you really questioning if I know how to heat up a drag slick?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I7F5TdB06kM

No, I'm not questioning anything. I'm just saying a 26x10.5 slick will hold much more than 400tq. I have dead hooked a 26x8.5 slick with 600+TQ.
Maybe we are thinking of 2 different slicks ? Dunno.

[PEI330Ci]

No, I'm not questioning anything. I'm just saying a 26x10.5 slick will hold much more than 400tq. I have dead hooked a 26x8.5 slick with 600+TQ.
Maybe we are thinking of 2 different slicks ? Dunno.

I used that as an example to illustrate that even with more traction, power can still need to be managed. Track prep may differ...

[pbonsalb]

Lets start with me putting 275/35/18 Toyo RA1 tires on the back of my 230rwhp 330Ci, and having them spin at the drag strip all the way through 1st gear.

With my engine build, I would put power somewhere around 300rwhp @ 5psi....so I've definitely got enough to be a problem. I'm running MPSS 245s on the street, and would like to be able to use boost by gear to help limit wheel spin in 1st and 2nd.

At the race track, I know that a 26 X 10.5 slick will start to slip with 400rwtq....so there's probably 15 psi at least in that....

Either way, I'm looking forward to testing it all out.

Maybe talk to chikinhed. He has been tracking with 400-600 rwhp for years. I don't track so I don't know the traction issues at the track. I know he uses Racelogic now.

I am sorry about your issues with 230 rwhp. I have been running 400-600 rwhp for 10 years now, on the street and on the dragstrip. With poor driving, I can light up street or drag tires on the street or strip. Driven with the limitations in mind, they have worked for me. I have thought about boost by gear, and think it would be great, but its harder to implement with a stock ECU, so I will likely use a Racelogic instead. It would be less involving if I could just put my foot down. Right now, I am on skinny snow tires in freezing weather with no traction control.

[PEI330Ci]

Maybe talk to chikinhed. He has been tracking with 400-600 rwhp for years. I don't track so I don't know the traction issues at the track. I know he uses Racelogic now.

I am sorry about your issues with 230 rwhp. I have been running 400-600 rwhp for 10 years now, on the street and on the dragstrip. With poor driving, I can light up street or drag tires on the street or strip. Driven with the limitations in mind, they have worked for me. I have thought about boost by gear, and think it would be great, but its harder to implement with a stock ECU, so I will likely use a Racelogic instead. It would be less involving if I could just put my foot down. Right now, I am on skinny snow tires in freezing weather with no traction control.

There's only so much room under my fenders, and I'm adding more power than the tires that fit can take. While most of you would argue that a "man" should be able to manage this with his foot, it is a proven fact that computers can do it better. That is what I'm looking to achieve by using boost by gear. If that makes me less of a driver, I'm fine with that. I will enjoy my car.

No comment on the weather. I have to run the A/C in my office during the day where I am...

[NOTORIOUS VR]

If you had wheel spin with stock HP boost by gear won't do much for you down low... You'll be better off using Motec's nice traction control and managing power w/ ign timing.

[pbonsalb]

Computers can shift better, too. You should try a DCT conversion. My next car will be DCT, PDK or auto.

[jakermac]

There's only so much room under my fenders, and I'm adding more power than the tires that fit can take.

A43A2A26-B02A-4DF1-A44A-C92340BA40E5_zpsvu4hdn6d.jpgCE084F1D-0BB5-40A6-8E46-3D9C8A89BBB0_zps82pgnotx.jpg

[pbonsalb]

I love the sleeper look. Awesome work!

[hobbit382]

Maybe talk to chikinhed. He has been tracking with 400-600 rwhp for years. I don't track so I don't know the traction issues at the track. I know he uses Racelogic now.

I am sorry about your issues with 230 rwhp. I have been running 400-600 rwhp for 10 years now, on the street and on the dragstrip. With poor driving, I can light up street or drag tires on the street or strip. Driven with the limitations in mind, they have worked for me. I have thought about boost by gear, and think it would be great, but its harder to implement with a stock ECU, so I will likely use a Racelogic instead. It would be less involving if I could just put my foot down. Right now, I am on skinny snow tires in freezing weather with no traction control.

I have already done boost by gear on ms43, ms41 will be available shortly

- - - Updated - - -

I used that as an example to illustrate that even with more traction, power can still need to be managed. Track prep may differ...

i can definitely see the need for lower boost, especially on the street

[PEI330Ci]

A43A2A26-B02A-4DF1-A44A-C92340BA40E5_zpsvu4hdn6d.jpgCE084F1D-0BB5-40A6-8E46-3D9C8A89BBB0_zps82pgnotx.jpg

Any other info on that car?!!!

That's awesome.

[jakermac]

Any other info on that car?!!!

http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...0-and-Ford-8-8

[PEI330Ci]

Thanks

That is along the lines of what I want to do to build a dedicated drag race car. (Been looking at doing this since 2012?) Very cool to see someone taking the plunge!

Surprised nobody picked up on my comment about Mainline. LOL

[wazzu70]

Those widened stockers are awesome!

I caught the Mainline comment, too envious to respond