E46 330i Automatic - M54B30 Turbo

[PEI330Ci]

What was it from?

Inquiring minds want to know!!

I drilled and tapped the block to install a crank case pressure sensor without removing the oil pan.

[jakermac]

Takes a real man to admit to that!!

[PEI330Ci]

I am getting my a$$ kicked here!

I re-assembled the engine, primed it on the starter, and saw 60 psi. Started the engine, and the same symptoms occurred: popping sound from the oil pump area, and oil pressure spiking at 120 PSI!

Considering ordering a new oil pump. (Which I'd swap the GSR gerotor and sprocket into)

I've just pulled off the VAC oil distribution block, and there's nothing stuck inside of it. The oil gallery inlet port on the block is clear...but obviously I can't see inside of it.

[Fender13Bender]

You should still check it with a good mechanical gauge

[someguy2800]

I would try spinning the pump with a cordless drill with the pickup in a pan of oil. Will make a mess everywhere though. Very curious that the pressure would spike. Something almost has to be plugged for the pressure to go higher than normal. I mean the pump can't suddenly increase its output so for the pressure to increase there must be an increase in restriction.

[PEI330Ci]

You should still check it with a good mechanical gauge

I'm installing one now, will be a permanent part of the car.

I would try spinning the pump with a cordless drill with the pickup in a pan of oil. Will make a mess everywhere though. Very curious that the pressure would spike. Something almost has to be plugged for the pressure to go higher than normal. I mean the pump can't suddenly increase its output so for the pressure to increase there must be an increase in restriction.

I ended up ordering an entirely new pump.

Once it arrives, I'll be able to play with the one that's on the car.

It's not like I don't have things to do on the car with the engine non-functional. I still have wiring bits to finish, and there's a revision to the fuel system that I'm doing. I just dropped the surge tank out....and will be cutting it up for some new additions.

[5mall5nail5]

Sucks to hear adam.

Btw - I believe DTA provides the curve for that temp sensor (I use it for oil pan temp) in case you want to verify.

[PEI330Ci]

Sucks to hear adam.

Btw - I believe DTA provides the curve for that temp sensor (I use it for oil pan temp) in case you want to verify.

That would be nice to have Jon. Can you post it here?

[PEI330Ci]

Oil pump just showed up.

Will probably take a couple of days to take the other one out and get the engine back together.

I'm still waiting for an ATL fuel level sensor for the surge tank though, so the engine can't run quite yet....even if I get the oil pump in.

[good & tight]

A friend of mine had the same issue with 100+psi of oil pressure. Ended up being crossed oil lines into the oil cooler that had a check valve, pressure was so high it blew the oil filter off. Not sure if this would apply to your situation, just a suggestion.

[PEI330Ci]

A friend of mine had the same issue with 100+psi of oil pressure. Ended up being crossed oil lines into the oil cooler that had a check valve, pressure was so high it blew the oil filter off. Not sure if this would apply to your situation, just a suggestion.

Thanks for the suggestion.

The issue occurred without any change to the plumbing. One day it was fine, the next it wasn't.

Last night I pulled all the lines, the oil filter housing, and oil cooler off and flushed everything out. Everything "off" of the engine looks fine.

I also installed a mechanical pressure gauge on the oil filter block inlet, to read oil pressure coming directly from the oil pump. (Before the filter and cooler)

[PEI330Ci]

...and I finally got some time (and motivation) to get the motor buttoned up with the new oil pump housing.

Engine primed OK on a couple of 15 second starter pulls last night, then this morning I started it for 10 seconds and no popping/knocking noise from the oil pump area. Oil pressure fluctuated a little bit on the high side, but I could see the pressure relief valve doing it's thing.

The next step is to install the charge piping and a few other bits, then drop the car on the ground again, and move it out of the shop for a long idle/warm up session to check how oil pressure behaves. That might be later this week though...

For now, I'm happy to appear to have this issue licked.

During the down time I also changed some stuff on the fuel system which I'll detail later.

[PEI330Ci]

Car is on the road.

Inspected.

Registered.

Insured.

Making 4 PSI with a 5000 RPM rev limit in 5 paddle shifted gears. :P

[Butters Stoch]

in 5 paddle shifted gears. :P

Jealous

[someguy2800]

Can't be, hakkentt said it would never work.

[5mall5nail5]

Car is on the road.

Inspected.

Registered.

Insured.

Making 4 PSI with a 5000 RPM rev limit in 5 paddle shifted gears. :P

What's the reaction between shifts like? Sorry I haven't got the coolant/oil temp sensor table. I've been meaning to, work has been insane​.

[dburt86]

this build is way to complex and will never work

o wait, it does work and is sick.

[PEI330Ci]

What's the reaction between shifts like? Sorry I haven't got the coolant/oil temp sensor table. I've been meaning to, work has been insane​.

The shift time is a function of the software settings. Right now I've got some conservative stuff in there to data-log with....so some shifts are slow with RPM flare-ups, and one shift (2nd) is too fast/firm.

I made a new harness to connect the Motec system into the transmission controller I/Os so that I can watch this stuff in greater detail. Once I get all that wired in....and a better tune on the TCM....I'll be able to comment on the shift times with a bit of data.

Right now, one of my line pressure ramps is 700ms and another is 1000ms....so that is probably a good indicator of what it's like right now.

Once it's in gear....there are other problems to look at though. Under load I'm getting changes to the slip rate through the transmission, which I'm not sure if it's the converter or line pressure. I did have an issue with 2nd gear slipping, but then increased the line pressure only to find the shifts were too firm.

I haven't even touched the torque converter lock-up clutch yet....

[5mall5nail5]

Autos are too much work lol

[MrBlonde]

Great to read Adam. I knew fire suppression would feature!

[PEI330Ci]

Great to read Adam. I knew fire suppression would feature!

Thanks Kenny!

[wazzu70]

Great to read Adam. I knew fire suppression would feature!

Glad to see you still stop by from time to time!

[PEI330Ci]

Gents,

What kind of ignition timing are you using for idle control?

My target is massively retarded (-10 degrees) get the engine under 1000 RPM.

I pulled the intake manifold to check for leaks, but found nothing significant. The following are now sealed with Permatex Grey silicone:

DISA Valve
Idle Air control valve
Gromit into Brake booster

The Vac line to the A/C system is zip tied on, and holds pressure no problem.

The Vac line to the Brake booster, and gas tank carbon canister is good as well.

There are 2 "Boost Connect" fittings on the manifold. 1 leads to the boost control solenoids, and the other to the BOV. Blowing or sucking on these lines doesn't create noticeable leakage....but I'm not entirely convinced my mouth is a good test instrument.

This morning I'm going to borrow/use a smoke machine to check for leaks.

Just thought I'd share my situation....

[E.Hands]

Adam, don't be so HARD on yourself or your blowing and suckin skillz. You seem like the perfect tool for the job!
J/k :-)

[someguy2800]

You definitely have a big leak somewhere. Mine idles best with around 20 degrees of advance. Are you using ignition timing only for idle control or also using the idle air valve? I ran for a summer with no idle valve and controlled only with timing but never really got it to run smooth at all coolant temps.