Dutz for????
Exactly, I know you get it and can make use of it. The faster is better thought process can really screw you over if you have no idea what you are doing.
what you describe is why I usually overlay raw and filtered data on the same chart. Filtered gives the trend, but raw can ID crazy peaks you were not anticipating and the filtering washes out.
I might start with 50/50 for both to get a handle on what's going on, and then play around a bit.
Admittedly if I find that they like different mixes, I'm either going to have to make a compromise, or add a second pump system.
There are sensors everywhere...so it won't be an undocumented process....
I've now got some free time to work on this thing, so there should be fairly regular progress until the car hits the road this spring.
This is the Autosport connector (AS 18-32) that will route all signals between the Dash Plate on the rest of the car:
I shaped a mounting bracket out of 2" box aluminum for the AS connector:
The plate on the left is to mount a Milspec 24-61 connector behind the Dash Plate, and the brackets on the right are to mount the Dash Plate to the crash structure:
I used 3 layers of a self-etching primer prior to painting:
The finished Dash Plate mounting brackets, and a slice of the material I made them from:
To re-wire the dash plate, I stripped everything off and started from scratch. New wires, and even new colours to match up everything they way I wanted. I also changed the way I connected to all the switches. In the image below, you can see I've soldered connections with the wire facing down, and then used SCL on top that is pinched to seal the connection:
The start of a very tedious process that lasted 2 weeks:
This made the process really enjoyable:
All the switches wired up:
Starting to route wires:
Getting there:
The finished product ready for testing:
Once I prove out all the wiring, I will be replacing the zip ties with lacing.
Beautiful work, Adam. Great idea for mounting the AS connector on the back of the dash plate!
--Peter
Very clean and organized. I love it
1996 328i (m52B28US) OBD1 euro ZF 5spd. 3.23LSD conversion / Chem. PnP Head/ DINAN stg.2 CHIP/ VAC race valves/ S52 cams/ A/C delete/ fan delete/ Washer Fluid resv delete/ ARP head studs/ Cometic 140MLS / VAC Solid Engine/trans Mounts/ CAI / 2.5"Borla race exahaust/ NGK R spark plugs, M50 Mani, S50 Oil Res, Riot Racing HFTB, SAMCO Hoses, JBR FW, X-Brace, Mtech Front Bumper, RE RSMs, stoptech SS lines, Bilstein sports, H&R Race Springs, S52 Reinforcement plates, Kosei K1 w/ bridgestone RE960as, Brembo/stoptech slotted rotors, M3 Trailing arms, M3 Calipers, M3 Axles, ACS strut brace, weight reduction.
http://mbuild.blogspot.com/
That looks awesome!
I know I jumped on this thread late, but this is truely one of the most beautiful and well thought out builds I have ever seen!
Next up is the center console harness, which bridges signals from other parts of the car, to the dash panel.
Getting started on the 61 pin connector:
Tying into the 32 pin Autosport connector:
Adding splices:
On a completely different topic, the front bumper cover is now held on by Dutz fasteners:
- - - Updated - - -
Programming and tuning the electronics on the car is done via a ethernet, serial port (RS232) and USB. The Motec C125 Dash and M1 ECU use ethernet, the Transmission Controller uses RS232, and the Motec PDM uses USB. I was going to use consumer grade connectors for these devices, but this bothered me more and more as the wiring project progressed. When I chose to completely rewire the dash and center console, I thought it was an opportunity to search for something better.
For the TCU-2000, I wanted a better quality connection inside of the car, and I also wanted to build a motorsport grade extension cable to be abled to tune with from outside of the car. This meant I was looking for both male and female connectors, that could be sealed and provide good strain relief.
DB9 Female:
Dust cap:
Casing kit:
Fitment:
For the Ethernet connection, I wanted to use Spec 55 wire (Tefzel) in the main harness, and terminate it with something nice. This was a failed intention for the better part of a year, until recently.
The kit:
Contents:
Conductor guide:
Assembly directions:
For those that are looking to source these, I will warn you that they are about 50 times as expensive as a conventional consumer Ethernet connector, and my source is reluctant share.
Looks awesome. Allen Bradley has connectors similar to that as well. There is also a convertor to go from the RJ connector to an M12 mini (ip67). The m12's are sealed at both ends an super cheap.
I can never keep it straight in my head. I know that serial com shields are grounded at source. If you are grounding an ethernet cable shield is it at both ends? Speed dependant?
Last edited by bry195; 02-24-2016 at 10:22 PM.
Can't see some of the pics.
You're welcome to steal it Peter. :P
Thank you
Appreciated
5 years.
That's how long this car has been under the knife.
There's been a lot of time...much more than usual I believe...to think about how to do things, and fix that stuff that didn't work out as intended.
I'm glad that the result is appealing to others beyond myself.
I use a dedicated sensor ground (Isolated) on the ECU for shields, and leave the connector ends open.
The aim with the RJ45 was to do it as well as possible; cost and convenience weren't a factor. I also just like cool stuff!
I get that too sometimes. I think it's an issue with the host, (Photobucket) as I have had issues with uploading content to them the last 6 months or so.
Looks good Adam. I like how you terminated the backs of switches - I do the same thing, pinching the adhesive heatshrink, on crimp splices works well.
Tires and tires and tires and tires:
I've severely downsized my tire plans for the car, and also decided to strip a few wheels to sell. (They just sit on my rack!)
The front tires are MPSS 225/40/18 on 8.5" X 18" wheels:
On the car:
And here you can see why I went with such a narrow front tire:
There is actually very little camber on the front end right now, so there will be a bit more clearance once an alignment is done.
The reason why the ET38 wheels sit so far out is that there is a total of 17mm of spacer behind them.
The rear was a lot simpler, as there is no spacers required to clear the callipers. The rear tires are MPSS 245/40/18 on 8.5" X 18" wheels:
With the rear suspension compressed:
The Beyern Mesh wheels (8.5 & 9.5 X 18") are going up for sale.
- - - Updated - - -
New toys:
It's a multi-channel USB oscilloscope, and a current clamp. I got this to setup ignition dwell times, but I suspect it's going to come in handy for many many other things. In the image above, I'm outputting a PWM signal, and reading it back in with another.
DB9 connector assembly:
Mil-spec Ethernet
Working on the rest of the harness:
...and by doing point to point checks with the DMM, I check for mistakes. At that point, I had just found I mixed up CAN 1 and CAN2 on the MS18-19 connector.
I was really proud of my nice injector wire harness I spent 40 minutes making yesterday and then I read through this thread.
Build looks great! I'm really excited to see how that trans performs with the aftermarket controller!
Trans will only access 1st gear, still working on figuring out why. (Could be firmware, software setup, or wiring issue) The car is however pretty fun to drive in 1st gear, netting a solid 5 PSI manifold pressure on a 4psi spring. Boost pressure stays constant at higher RPMs, so the WG is doing it's job. And just how high are those RPMs? On the street under load, I've run to a 6500 RPM limiter. In my driveway, I set the limiter to 7600, which the engine ran to without issue on a blip, but then something inside the alternator let go. (There's shrapnel inside the case) I ran the same limiter on my 330Ci, with the same model alternator and never had issues, so I'm guessing that my 15yr old alternator gave up the ghost.
So now I'm on a search for a new alternator....
Target boost (4-5psi) arrives at around 3900 RPM, but I'm not sure if that's more a function of the torque converter putting the engine under load, or the fact that the engine revs so fast in 1st gear. I really need to get the car on a dyno, lock the torque converter clutch, and start a pull in 4th gear to see where this little turbo lights up.
Edit: Data logging with the Motec M1 ECU is AWESOME!!! With over 2,000 channels of data to chose from, at logging rates up to 1,000hz, you can really bury yourself in data if you want. But....as a general practice, I'm logging temps at 10 or 20 hz, pressure sensors from 50 to 100 hz, status functions from 1 to 10 hz, and some engine functions at 200 hz.
It is really cool to see the DBW throttle snap shut going over the rev limiter, instead of just fuel/spark cut.
At some point I'll post some logs with interesting things I've found...but for the most part...what I'm finding now is all related to setting issues on my send. (Embarrassing)
Last edited by PEI330Ci; 03-17-2016 at 08:56 AM.
Just out of curiosity, would you mind listing the places you used to purchase your various wiring supplies?
Thanks!
Over the past 5 years I've used a lot of places including Apex Speed Technology, Prowire USA, Motec East (Milspecwire.com), and direct with the manufacturer for a few specialty items.
But...and this is a big one...I now pretty much exclusively deal with Joel @ Race Spec for everything to do with wiring supplies. That includes tools, connectors, wire, heat shrink, splices, and misc stuff like spare pins. To illustrate why I now deal exclusively with Joel, I'll give an example. I might have to terminate 25 wires with a connector. I email Joel with a description of what I'm doing, and he'll suggest a part that will work, what boots you can use, and installation tricks if required. If I need the tools for the installation, I'll tell him, and he'll add that to the order. It's a very efficient interaction, where I get everything that I need without hassles in 1 place. If I have an issue during installation, I email him a picture, and usually within a day I get a response with some advice. Now....a lot of you will want to know about price. That's important for me too. But, very early on I stopped shopping around on Joel's prices because he was either the best, or super competitive. I also get better service from Joel, than pretty much everyone else that I have dealt with, on ANY product.
Check out Joel's instagram account for examples of what he does:
https://www.instagram.com/racespec/?hl=en
Every time I look at his stuff I learn something new.
Awesome work as always. I get nightmares about this much wiring but you thrive in it!
What camera/lens setup do you use to shoot these, pictures are always so clear.
The camera is a Nikon D200 that I bought 10 years ago. Seriously.
The lens is newer: Nikon AFS 24-70 F2.8
The CCD on the camera is starting to go...so I have to apply a ton of corrections in Lightroom, and shoot with at least 1+ stop exposure compensation. I've considered getting a new body, but just haven't pulled the trigger yet.
If I need something better to shoot with, I just steal my wife's Canon 5D Mark III. She's got some wicked lenses like the 85mm F1.2 that are fun to play with....
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