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Thread: Figured I'd put something up, here's my '86 635CSi...

  1. #26
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    Lotsa rust and crud. I guess you'll have a bead blaster working full time. I've also heard that a good dishwasher with a "baked-on" setting at max temp and TSP detergent should do wonders.

  2. #27
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    I've heard the same about dishwashers...but I suspect the missus won't be enthused about cleaning the project in the kitchen. Those days stopped long ago, the last motor I cleaned up in the kitchen was decades ago. It was a '73 CB750....still have great memories of that bike.

    I decided to carve out some room before all the new parts arrive. A few hours of quality time sorting unwanted motorcycle parts cleared out a good bit of shelf and floor space. I listed the best stuff on CL and scrapped the rest. With a little luck I'll have some buyers clear out the rest of the bike parts. Spring cleaning is off to an early start this year!

    As suspected, the rear diff cover was out of stock. The order wasn't cancelled, although it'll be a while before it gets here. ECS expects it'll be five weeks. I'll post updates if/when it gets here. I also had trouble finding reasonably-priced shifter isolation blocks and rear bumper bracket. I wasn't expecting the blocks to be hard to find...those are pretty widely used on old BMWs. They're out of stock and on back order everywhere I checked. As for the bracket, I'll attempt to repair the old part instead. It's pretty corroded, but maybe I can use it for a template.

    Despite these setbacks, I'll proceed regardless. I'm sure I'll find a few things that need done. The other stuff is on the way - new clutch kit, lots of rubber bits, new engine seals, etc. I also bought a bunch of generic closeout stuff at RockAuto - wiper blades, fan belts, caliper repair kits. Given their prices it's hard to pass them up.

  3. #28
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    I should update this! I've scrapped the poor old Euro, and found out a few fun & odd facts about the drivetrain. First off, the Euro has a large diff case, but it also has some attributes of the medium case diffs. For instance, there are only six bolts on each output shaft retainer. I haven't measured the ring gear to see which one it is. It's still a 3.07 open, and I was hoping for something a little shorter. The transmission is in good shape and I'm even optimistic about the Euro motor. So I still need a diff & exhaust, but I solved that a different way...

    I bought another E24 in the meantime - an '85 635CSiA. Price was right, my buddy was interested in the chassis, I just couldn't pass it up. I'll swap the wheels, diff (3.64 open?) and semi-custom exhaust to get mine back on the road. My buddy is a BMW Master Tech, so the car is in good hands.



    So I was all ready to get back to the project, but then this dropped in my lap:

    Who doesn't like a ratty cabrio? I'll update this later (I promise).
    Last edited by DesktopDave; 07-27-2015 at 07:40 PM.

  4. #29
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    Update time! Unfortunately not much in the way of E24 stuff though. The E30 cabrio is running nicely now after I replaced a bunch of stuff. New timing belt, water pump, brake switch (an E36 4-pin switch can be used in a pinch FYI). I have also tested every single light bulb in that car...a surprising number were burned out. Thank goodness I
    stripped every E30 rust bucket I've gotten my grubby little hands on...there have been some rare items that were damaged...13 button OBC, HVAC panel, oil cooler mounts, and ten different types of light bulbs!

    She's almost ready for the road. Last major problem is to figure out what's loose in the front end. Then some tires, maybe a battery if I feel like spoiling her. I'll change the rest of the fluids and then decide if she's a keeper or a flip. Even though they are really nicely made cars, they're not worth much. She still needs a new top & some interior work too, and those don't come cheap.

    In the meantime, I finally "converted" a gearhead friend into a BMW owner. After years of my talk, he finally caved in and snapped up a very reasonably priced '98 525i. Blue over tan leather, manual transmission, 200K miles. The car had been left sitting for too long. Flat battery, broken hood release, old tires. We managed to get it started but it wouldn't rev. Once I popped the loose CCV pipe back into the snorkel, the car started to run very nicely indeed. It still needs a tremendous amount of work. Bits of rust around the corners, front bushings are shot, wiper motor is dead, ABS/traction/airbag warnings galore, bits of broken trim, doors not opening. The usual litany of E39 troubles. He'll get it sorted.

  5. #30
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    Cleaning out the garage. PM me if you'd like more details.

    E28 M5 center & rear exhaust sections, used but in good shape.
    Front calipers, pads & rotors from the same M5 (quad-piston fixed calipers and internally vented rotors). Used but in good shape.
    I also can put you in touch with the guy that has the S38.
    Large-case diff cover with centered mount, as fitted to an '82 Euro E24. This cover allows a later E28-style rear subframe. I have the diff too, but it's a 3.07 open and would be very expensive to ship.

    I'll have some more stuff up soon.

  6. #31
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    Quick question...what's involved with fitting a Euro downpipe to a E28 M5 center section and rear muffler? Does the stock M5 setup work well and sound good with an M30? I was considering selling the parts in order to buy a stock exhaust setup, but I don't think many M5 or M6 owners are interested in used parts these days. If they must be cut up or modded a bit, so be it.

    Does anyone know offhand?

  7. #32
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    '85 635 CSi Euro 5sp.
    You might try a post on myE28.com
    Dean
    Lutz, FL

    '85 635 CSi Euro #9402254
    '87 Spider Veloce
    '92 Spider Veloce
    '08 350Z


  8. #33
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    I have used the m5/m6 exhaust as replacements for the std m30 with good success. A little throatier but not as much as the aftermarket units.

  9. #34
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    I was hoping they'd sound nice, they're really nicely made parts.

    If you don't mind me asking, how did you fit the downpipes? I have a pair of chopped Euro downpipes that came with the dirty M30, I'll have them extended if required. It looks like the M5 center section starts a little further under the car.

  10. #35
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    1982 733i
    Not to thread jack but I'm in a similar situation. The po jacked up the exhaust badly on my car and I'm looking for a good replacement.

  11. #36
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    These cars frequently get victimized by custom exhausts. I have an E24 parts car with custom exhaust that was pretty well done. Looks like stainless too. Unfortunately it's loud and drones too much. IMHO these cars need something subtle unless they're on a racetrack.

  12. #37
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    Finally found my diff - a low-mileage 3.46 torsen. I've been looking high and low for one of these and I finally got lucky. This one popped up 10 miles from my house!

    The donor was a poor Z3 rear-ended by a random intoxicated Jeep driver. Owner wasn't injured, and he upgraded to an MZ3 to sooth the pain. If anyone needs some Z3 parts, his prices are good.

  13. #38
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    2001 330ci, 1986 635CSi
    A Z3 diff will work in our cars? Luckily, I am not in the market as my '86 has an S3.46, but good to know.

    A little off topic, but had you ever seen my old car, DesktopDave? Had a black '84 with a red interior between '08 and '12. There are so few E24 folks around here.
    1986 635CSi - 2001 330ci

  14. #39
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    I saw a lot of pictures of your old car but you'd already moved on; I really liked the Style 4 wheels you picked out.

    It's been a few years since I had my last E24, I tend to keep cars a year or so until the next project comes along. My first E24 made quite the impression...a red-headed stepchild '81 E12 chassis with a Motronic M30B32, black over cardinal leather. Despite being the slowest E24, it was a great car once I got it running. After I traded it off I knew another one would come my way eventually.

    Any E30 diff will work in the E28 chassis cars...and the Z3 & 318Ti both have the E30 rear suspension. You'll just need the correct rear cover to suit your chassis, along with the proper output flanges. The medium 188mm rear-loader has the same case and input/output flanges in the later E24, E28, E30 and even a few very early E32 & E34. I think even the E23 diff is compatible if you slot the rear mount with a grinder. The E23 is such an odd duck, LOL. There are exceptions though...the large case 210mm diff (E30 M3, E24 M6, and E28 M5, Euro E23 745i, early E32 750iL) will also fit, but IMHO it's overkill for an M30 car. My Euro E24 had an odd looking large case diff too.

    The Z3 and 318Ti (last of the E30s IMHO) are a little more complicated, as BMW started customizing the input & output flanges. I had to swap them to suit the E24. The flange bolt circles for the bigger cars are ever so ~slightly~ larger than the E30. Here's the culprit(s):


    I finally got a half-decent pic of the torsen gears too. Behold:
    Last edited by DesktopDave; 07-02-2016 at 10:56 PM.

  15. #40
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    It's been almost a year since I updated this! How time flies...

    I have many, many updates. The B34 got a fresh set of gaskets. I skipped the head gasket (here's hoping that was a good idea ). I had the single mass flywheel resurfaced and installed it with a nice new Sachs clutch kit to suit the Getrag 265/5. I'll be running a Motronic 1.3 setup from a B35 along with an antique DIY WBO2 from 14point7.com (once I get my act together). Finally, an E36 diff and E38 wheels finished up the chassis.

    If you've been keeping track, here's how many cars it's taken:
    The chassis is a very clean '86 US model, Zinnoberrot over Lama leather. I bought it without the S38 it had been upgraded with.
    The high-compression motor, flywheel and transmission were salvaged from an '82 Euro 635CSi that had been flooded, then left to rot in a field.
    The wheels and a few other items were borrowed from an '85 635CSi that had been scrunched in an accident, then left to rot in a driveway (it's now rotting in a field).
    The diff came from an '02 Z3 2.3 that had been rear-ended that was rotting in a garage. I'd bet it's long gone now.
    The wiring harness and other motor parts came from a '91 535i that had also been left to rot in a field.
    The exhaust was also salvaged, from an '85 E28 IIRC. It's always good to have a contact at your local dealer! It came to me pre-rotted, LOL. I've been seasoning it my damp storage room until I get the rest installed.

    I've been struggling with the clutch slave and starter, wiring harness and other details. Hopefully I'll sort those out this weekend. Then onto the fuel system, cooling system, etc.. This car will be on the road sooner or later!! Who wants some progress pics?
    Prepped for the install:


    This was the result of an afternoon of fun (and danger):


    I'm not sure I'll ever really be good at this, but it all ended up in the right place!

    There were a few struggles too. Here's what's left of the clutch pilot bearing:


    I hope you & yours have a happy & relaxing Independence Day weekend!!
    Last edited by DesktopDave; 07-03-2016 at 09:14 AM.

  16. #41
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    I had a few odd things happen when I dropped the motor into the car. First off, I found that the early model A/C bracket was interfering with the crank angle sensor bracket. I took it apart to find that the CAS wasn't adjusted properly...or at all. The sensor face was not only crooked, but it must have been 2-3 mm away from the trigger wheel. Once I cleaned it up, they went back together as designed.

    I also found that the motor mounts can change the angle of the motor in the car. The driver's side wasn't fully seated, it caused the rear of the transmission to angle off about an inch! That cocked the driveshaft a little and caused me some head-scratching. Once I saw the crooked mount it was easy enough to set it right.

    The B35 uses a tidy little conduit for the alt->starter wire. The alt exciter wire and oil level sensor wires are also inside that bundle. It won't fit the B34 filter housing without some modification. I'll try to bend or cut it to fit. I've also found that the oil pan came in a few different versions. I had bought the motor with a broken oil pan; my replacement is from a B32. It's usable - bolts right on without any trouble - but has a high-mount oil sensor on the side of the pan. It only has one male spade terminal, seems to ground through the block. The B35 gasket would fit it, but it's o-ringed. I'd suspect it's an open circuit if the float is up, closes when the oil level drops.

    I also discovered that the later model Sanden compressor will fit the same bracket as the late model Bosch. There are a few detail differences. The earlier Bosch mounting is completely different.

    The car still has a few surprises left. For instance, The S38 throttle bracket is different. The accelerator cable is likewise shorter to suit those six lovely throttle bodies. The S38 uses the same P/S pump, and the same sump, but it appears that the bracketry is different.

  17. #42
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    I've been digging into this oil feed problem a little further. While I was pulling a spare oil pump from an M30B35, I noticed some pretty significant detail differences between it and my S38B35 block. They're very similar to the M30B35, but certainly not the same part.

    I found that most people already knew about the S38 oil return at the rear of the block - it's designed to accept a bolt-on bracket into the oil drain passage. First pic is the S38B35, second is the M30B35:


    I also found a pair of restrictor orifices/jets pressed into the top of the block, on both the F&R cam gallery feeds. Can anyone elaborate? I'm not 100% sure on how the oil is fed to the cam; my guess is that it's fed up through those two high-side passages at the front and rear (driver's side in LHD cars), then through the cam saddles into the intake rocker arm shafts via the head bolt holes, then to the spray bar and exhaust rocker arm shafts, finally drained on the low side of the casting. Anyhow...here's a few closeups of the S38 oil jets:



    Compare that to the M30:


    I also noted that the S38 block has a double row of holes bored into each of the block webs, between the cylinders. The M30 only has a single row. I noted that the newer (Victor Reinz universal?) head gasket does have a provision for either block (the M30B35 pictured above had been recently rebuilt). They're not 'gasketed' on the M30B35 HG, my guess would be supplementary coolant passages.
    Last edited by DesktopDave; 11-10-2016 at 09:06 PM. Reason: Pics!

  18. #43
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    I got another chance to work on the car, trying to chase down this oil pressure problem. I figured it's a stuck relief valve. So I pulled the oil pump & pan. The pump wasn't in bad shape, although the relief piston was a little sticky. I pulled that apart, cleaned & reassembled it:


    I'm still not 100% clear on what goes on with this B34 pump. FirstFives had a helpful writeup about the different M30 pump versions. They all seem to make sense except for the B34. I'm assuming that the pump rotor sucks up oil from the pickup, then sends pressurized oil up to the filter housing via the rearward passage. There is also a forward passage with a pressure valve. The valve is pressurized with a tiny passage in front of the rotor to keep it closed against low oil pressure. I'm guessing that it's a pressure regulator. If the pressure goes too high, the plunger valve opens and dumps oil back into the pump housing. The plunger valve is slightly beveled at the top, so it would progressively flow more oil as pressure climbs. But since there is no opening back to the pan, I'm a little confused. Maybe it's an anti-flowback valve?


    - - - Updated - - -

    The next potential failure point are the pressure valves in the B34 oil filter housing. I pulled that off to find that the smaller valve was just flopping around, exactly as described here at MyE28.com. It had become separated from the spring. I carefully bent one of the prongs back & extracted the valve poppet. Then I used a utility knife to grind away the staking, and removed the valve seat by prying it down via the oil output port:


    You can see that the upper pressure relief valve is still in good shape. Then I reassembled the valve, drove it back into the housing with a screwdriver pommel, and staked it with a screwdriver:


    - - - Updated - - -

    I really like that old screwdriver. It's antique, my Grampap had used it for opening cans of paint. When he passed away in '87, I inherited it. It's an excellent multi-purpose tool...drift, driver, prybar, can opener, ice pick...and now...a staking tool!
    Last edited by DesktopDave; 07-30-2016 at 09:36 PM.

  19. #44
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    '93 740il '84 633Csi
    Classic Craftsman?

  20. #45
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    Oh, LOL. Bad picture - wrong screwdriver. Here's the antique:

  21. #46
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    Not much to report on recently. I managed to get a used E28 535i exhaust installed onto the car. With a little luck I'll get her running before the snow comes.

    I did manage to score a free shed! I posted the story on BigCoupe and figured I'd share it here too:

    We have new neighbors next door. They hated their shed & asked me if I knew anyone that would take it away it. I was immediately interested, asked them if I could move it instead, and they were happy to oblige. It's fairly decrepit 8'x8' box, but I couldn't argue with the price.

    I used my cheap HF alu floor jack to lift the shed up onto jack stands, then put a few 2x4s on the ground as rails. I nailed a few other 2x4s up under the shed as load spreaders. I managed to move it into my yard with four sections of 4" ABS pipe. I was astonished at how easily it rolled - I moved it solo! I had to actually set a few stops to keep it from rolling down slopes. Naturally, I used a few spare BMW wheel chocks. Those are really handy to have sometimes.

    My driveway was about a foot higher than their yard so I used my E30 and a tow strap to pull the shed up a pair of ramps. I made them from pairs of 2x4s nailed together. I sunk a few cement block pylons and built up a treated 4x4 frame to level the site. Almost a week from start to finish, but now it's done.
    Last edited by DesktopDave; 08-11-2019 at 11:22 PM.

  22. #47
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    I got a little time to work on the car today. I re-installed the B35 wiring harness, ICV, AFM and B34 filter housing onto the B34 intake manifold. The car actually has an air filter attached for the first time in months!

    I still have so much to do. Off the top of my head I still have a bunch of fun ahead. Tasks include: purging the fuel tank, re-plumbing the hydraulics, fix the A/C mount, install the belts & radiator. It's getting a little closer every weekend though.

  23. #48
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    It's been a little while since I've updated this thread but I haven't completely abandoned the project. I managed to get a few tasks done since November. With any luck I'll have it fired up this weekend.

    • Fuel system is sealed up.
    • The hydraulics are plumbed & filled, but I'll have to get some proper BMW pressure hose since the smallest one is weeping a bit.
    • V-belts were fun - my mix-n-match of accessories required some custom sized belts. The main pulley and water pump are B35. The alternator is a 90amp unit from an M20B27. The P/S and A/C are from a B34/US. I had a few spare belts that I tossed on, I just have to figure out what size the A/C compressor wants. The M20 solid-mount alternator fits the bracket, but it has a slightly different offset. So that belt is ever-so-slightly misaligned. I just tossed it on to get the thing done, I'll overhaul my B34 90A later. I didn't feel like extracting the regulator mounting screw I had broken off flush, and I didn't want to mess with the updated urethane bushings yet.
    • The radiator and hoses are all installed too, but it's miserably failing a pressure test. I'll be pulling & plugging hoses to track that one down.
    • I finished up the B35 starter wiring.
    • Other engine wiring is nearly done.
    • Bit the bullet and bought a brand-new battery from AutoZone. I had gift cards to burn, no real choice in the matter. I opted for the Gold conventional battery instead of the Platinum AGM.


    The list is getting a lot shorter though. I need to:
    Modify the B35 plug wires to fit. The wide boots of the high-power plug wires won't fit on the skinny dist cap. Anyone have the adapter for an early Motronic cam to the later bolt-on rotor? I'm still using the early push-on rotor & skinny cap with the later B35 wiring to retain that #6 inductive cam sensor.
    Finish up the power supply to the DME, maybe add an inline fuse.
    Find the coolant & fluid leaks.
    Plumb the evap system & cabin temp sensor.
    Wire up the WBO2.
    Find a cheap muffler, missing exhaust clamps and G265 center support brackets.
    Replace that flaky reverse switch.

    Still looks a lot like this:

    ...although it does have the tranny installed & hood bolted on. Seven steps forward, a half-step back and eight more to go?

  24. #49
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    Keep it up man! You've made a lot of progress so far. Following

    Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk

  25. #50
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    I got to spend a little more time in the garage today. I buttoned up the plug wires (temporarily), ran power to the DME and relays (ditto), and filled up the radiator. Then I connected the battery and checked for wiring problems. No fires; no sparks; the instruments & dash lights flicked back to life. I love how a fresh battery really (& literally) cranks.

    After a few false starts I felt the motor catch once or twice. I let her rest a bit, then tried one last time. She coughed to life, spitting & hesitating, then she smoothed out to an idle. SHE FINALLY RAN!!! I tried out the brakes, then gingerly shifted into reverse. The clutch is pretty soft but she picked it and rolled slowly back under her own power. First gear was just as uneventful - she rolled forward with just a touch of throttle. It was the first time this motor has run in two decades, probably. Amazing just how rugged these old lumps are, isn't it?



    - - - Updated - - -

    Time for a new list. A few things went wrong, nothing unexpected or out of the ordinary:

    • Radiator absolutely does not hold water.
    • Alternator has a bad bearing.
    • ATF leak is pretty spectacular and the power steering pump needs some bleeding.
    • Heater fan is really squeaky.
    • She smokes like a fiend!


    On the plus side:
    • Oil finally flowed to the head. I was starting to think my oil pump was dead, but it's just the usual M30 pressure tardiness.
    • Brakes and transmission are strong - even better than I'd hoped.
    • No major oil leaks.


    Not a bad day, all in all!

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