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Thread: Rear suspension refurbish

  1. #26
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    Winter hibernation is plenty of time. To just replace the bushings and put everything back without the plating and painting/powdercoating, should take about 8-12 hours. A lot has to do with having the correct tools. You could probably do it in less time, but a weekend would cut it. Mine took about 3 months, as I was only working on it sporadically - that gives you enough time to do things 100%, without worrying about forgetting something or accepting anything short of perfect.
    '93 850Ci - Mineralweiss Metallic
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  2. #27
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    Got an email from Charlie at Gault -- parts are on the way! I think I'm getting mission creep, the stock mufflers are in bad shape so I'm going to swap in some Magnaflows while I've got it apart.

    Leaning towards removing the suspension arms and hubs before dropping the carrier, is this correct?

    Are the axle to diff bolts red-loctited in there? I used a really long extension from the side of the car and put a good amount of torque on them but they didn't budge. I'm not missing any locking mechanism am I? Don't want to put the impact on it and break something.

  3. #28
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    As long as you loosen all the nuts BEFORE removing anything, you can drop the whole assembly in on piece. Just make sure the electrical connections (speed sensor, both ABS Sensors and the brake lining wear indicator), have been disconnected and are out of the way. You need to disengage the parking brake cable from both sides. All that is left are the 2 bolts on each of the rear trailing arms, the 4 bolts for the rear carrier and both rear shocks.
    Lower the assembly and go to town!
    '93 850Ci - Mineralweiss Metallic
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    ...the price of cool ain't cheap!

  4. #29
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    Confirmed -- those axle bolts use some sort of BMW superglue. Got a couple out though....thought I broke the socket when the first one snapped loose. 10-4 on the cables, got em all and found some of the insulation was missing some fasteners. Rear fuel lines are looking a little weathered, need to replace them. And brake lines. What did I get myself into here...?

  5. #30
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    Sounds like you're having your own "Wrench Fest".

  6. #31
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    I am on the same program. Mission creep is the name of the game here depending on what outcome you want. I am half way threw the engine compartment, got a good dose of mission creep, I will start the rear suspension next then on to the front suspension. I will use this blog for my guide for the rear suspension. I see you are a So Cal person. You ordered some parts from Gault, did you know there is a local BMW dealer with the same deal?

  7. #32
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    ECS Tuning also sells some parts - shop around, prices vary drastically.
    You can also try ROCKAUTO.com or AUTOHAUSAZ.com.
    '93 850Ci - Mineralweiss Metallic
    ALPINA B7 -Alpinweiss III

    BMWCCA E31 Chapter President



    ...the price of cool ain't cheap!

  8. #33
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    Are you referring to the Torx bolts? I believe I used an impact wrench to get those off so they wouldn't strip...
    Last edited by Dr. T; 11-28-2014 at 07:23 AM.

  9. #34
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    Thanks all for the informative posts. Does anyone have torque values for all bolts on the rear axle?

    I'm neck-deep in a rear axle rebuild as well. All new components except rear hub knuckles, which I have a used spare set that I'm pushing old ball joints and wheel bearings out of and redoing...still cost me $3k+ in parts!
    I bought all new arms from BMW.
    1991 BMW 850i / V12 5.0L [M70] / ZF4HP24 E/H

  10. #35
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    Also while back there - think about replacing the rear brake lines with stainless steel braided lines. Easy to do when everything is out.
    Editor, E31 NEWS - BMWCCA E31 Chapter Newsletter
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  11. #36
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    you might as well upgrade your rear sway bar while your at it, cause it's a bitch to do otherwise!

  12. #37
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    No I didn't know there's a local place to pick up parts -- what's the name? I've had some problems with part quality through Autohaus, but I usually use them for general maintenance stuff.

    I don't think the CSi rear sway bar will work in a '91, I think I remember hearing there's a bar from a 7-series that will work? Anybody know what part that is?

  13. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by e31jann View Post
    No I didn't know there's a local place to pick up parts -- what's the name?
    Contact Fern.

  14. #39
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    I PM the info to him.

  15. #40
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    Picked up a belt sander on eBay to finish the stock exhaust tip ends before welding:



    Beginning to question my sanity...

  16. #41
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    The '91 850i tended gallop in the rear on any freeway curve due to shot flex parts in the rear suspension. That car needed the entire rear carrier pulled and flex parts replaced. Pulling the rear carrier is the best way to go as it makes getting to the individual suspension links reasonable. As I remember the rear suspension "steers" passively based on forces placed on the system.

    the detail is what BMW call elastokinematics – this encompasses the control arm positions, lengths and strengths of the bushings. This old E31 diagram shows that when under heavy lateral load (cornering) each rear corner can pivot into the corner for increased stability – this is a completely passive system – it all works from the arm pivot positions and their uneven lengths – lateral load leads to the spherical bearing at the rear being pushed and pulled to some extent. At the same time the wheel is pulled on it’s ‘up axis’ to try and achieve ideal camber.



  17. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by e31jann View Post
    No I didn't know there's a local place to pick up parts -- what's the name?
    www.bmwfactorydirect.com it's connected to South Bay BMW in Torrance. You can place your order online and call to speak to Ruben. Mention you are with "SoCal Eights" to get an additional discount. I've used them for several things including all of my parts for the front and rear suspension.
    Last edited by rharris99; 11-30-2014 at 06:27 PM.

  18. #43
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    This is probably a ridiculous question...but I have to ask: with 4 jackstands under the factory lift points, empty tank of gas, rear subframe removed, is the car nose heavy enough to tip forward on the jackstands? I REALLY don't want to find out the hard way, and I can't tell for sure by looking at it.

  19. #44
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    No. I had mine up on 6-ton truck jack stands at a height of almost 20 inches - the car is pretty stable. As long as it is on fairly level ground you should be okay.
    '93 850Ci - Mineralweiss Metallic
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  20. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by TxGR8White View Post
    No. I had mine up on 6-ton truck jack stands at a height of almost 20 inches - the car is pretty stable. As long as it is on fairly level ground you should be okay.
    I'm a little crazier than TxGR8White, I had mine up on 2 ton Jack stands, it was fine. BUT I wasn't up 20 inches!
    Last edited by Imndeep; 12-07-2014 at 11:31 PM.

  21. #46
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    I only used the 6-ton because of the height, 2-ton stands work also, but I wanted to make sure I could remove everything with ease.
    '93 850Ci - Mineralweiss Metallic
    ALPINA B7 -Alpinweiss III

    BMWCCA E31 Chapter President



    ...the price of cool ain't cheap!

  22. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by Imndeep View Post
    I'm a little crazier than TxGR8White, I had mine up on 2 ton Jack stands, it was fine. BUT I wasn't up 20 inches!
    You got to remember....everything is bigger in Texas....
    Editor, E31 NEWS - BMWCCA E31 Chapter Newsletter
    North America Representative, 8er.or Board of Directors



  23. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by rogbmw View Post
    You got to remember....everything is bigger in Texas....
    That is a FACT!
    '93 850Ci - Mineralweiss Metallic
    ALPINA B7 -Alpinweiss III

    BMWCCA E31 Chapter President



    ...the price of cool ain't cheap!

  24. #49
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    Ok. Maybe I'll put a couple of weights in the trunk for peace of mind

    'nother question -- I'm assuming I need to disassemble the hub before removing the dust shield so I can get this press in this bushing?



    Last edited by e31jann; 12-09-2014 at 11:58 PM.

  25. #50
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    I just unbolted it and spun thd shield around to get it out of the way of the shop press. I used a 12 ton hydraulic shop press instead of the clamp type that you are using - seems to offer better access.

    By by the way, you don't need any additional weight in the trunk - it is an optical illusion that the car will top forward.
    '93 850Ci - Mineralweiss Metallic
    ALPINA B7 -Alpinweiss III

    BMWCCA E31 Chapter President



    ...the price of cool ain't cheap!

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