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Thread: Rear suspension refurbish

  1. #76
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    1991 e31, 1986 e24
    OK after staring at it for a while, I think I'm going to install the carrier and then hook the parts on. seems too precarious without a jig to brace the hubs.

  2. #77
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    OK, for the record, it is impossible to install the diff with the carrier in the car

  3. #78
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    Victoria, Canada
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    91 850i, 01 Z3
    Pretty sure most guys do the diff swap without dropping the carrier at all. There are some pretty good diy threads here. I have to do this job shortly and don't plan on dropping it at all.

    Now I'm curious...
    Live, Love, Life, Amazing...

  4. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by e31jann View Post
    OK, for the record, it is impossible to install the diff with the carrier in the car
    No, Not true! Very nice work TX.
    Last edited by 8eights; 02-22-2015 at 09:45 PM. Reason: Forgot to give Tx props,)

  5. #80
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    Really? I wasn't able to get the rear carrier to diff bolts in -- its tight in there!

    Quote Originally Posted by 8eights View Post
    No, Not true! Very nice work TX.

  6. #81
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    the first few diff swaps I did with the carrier in place, not like removing a wheel, but can be done without too much trouble.
    '93 850Ci - Mineralweiss Metallic
    ALPINA B7 -Alpinweiss III

    BMWCCA E31 Chapter President



    ...the price of cool ain't cheap!

  7. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by e31jann View Post
    Really? I wasn't able to get the rear carrier to diff bolts in -- its tight in there!
    Yes, Really!) You have to have a feel for where to start turning the top bolts and a almost binding fit with the ratchet and extention, No need to drop the carrier, Even when putting a rear sway bar you can just lower the carrier and get it done.

  8. #83
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    1991 e31, 1986 e24
    Oh good...just realized I forgot to put the swaybar in before the carrier -- d'oh!

  9. #84
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    1991 e31, 1986 e24
    She's coming back together -- all suspension parts are in now. Looks like I need to hook up the e-brake now so I can torque the axle shaft bolts. I'm assuming these need red Loctite?
    Last edited by e31jann; 04-03-2015 at 11:21 PM.

  10. #85
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    Blue Loctite is sufficient. Red is overkill and very difficult to remove.
    '93 850Ci - Mineralweiss Metallic
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    BMWCCA E31 Chapter President



    ...the price of cool ain't cheap!

  11. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by e31jann View Post
    She's coming back together -- all suspension parts are in now.
    Xlnt...we'll look for you at Bimmerfest.
    1993 850Ci.....161,000 miles and counting!

  12. #87
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    Charlotte, NC
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    1991 850i manual
    Quote Originally Posted by 8eights View Post
    Yes, Really!) You have to have a feel for where to start turning the top bolts and a almost binding fit with the ratchet and extention, No need to drop the carrier, Even when putting a rear sway bar you can just lower the carrier and get it done.
    Yes, I was able to do the diff swap w/o dropping the rear carrier...now I have gotten myself in some real deep do do! Working on my rear suspension. Thanks too Stephen...I think I be making a call to Mr. Charlie at Gault or Mr. Bill at Lumens or Mr. Wokke in Germany for some new rear upper wishbones. Damn you guys are good! Oh I almost forgot Tom @ Wuffer...my old age creeping in!
    1957 MB 190SL
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  13. #88
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    1991 e31, 1986 e24
    Progress update -- I'm almost finished with fabricating the exhaust. Just need to finish welding the tips on. Very time consuming fitting the stock square-ish tips to the round Magnaflow outlets. Going to do some test drives and once I'm sure there are no leaks I'll get it powdercoated.





    Go easy on my horrible welds Gas feed kept coming loose on these. Will have to redo it with a tig one of these days.

    Rear suspension is all back together, but I can't get one of the e-brake cables to fully release. Probably not a big deal though. Had a beastly time pressing in the new front control arm bushings. Tried PVC, didn't work, too soft. Finally I found a 2" to 2-1/8" exhaust coupling at autozone which was the perfect size. Used that to press out one of the old bushings, then cut the center out of the old bushing and used that to press in the new one.
    Last edited by e31jann; 06-28-2015 at 03:15 PM.

  14. #89
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    Jan 2004
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    Toronto, Canada
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    BMW 850CSi
    Couple questions on the rear end rebuild:

    1. What is the best way to press out/in all the rear end bushings? Are the BMW tools required or is there a good generic "tool kit" to get for this purpose?

    2. Can I get away with a 6 or 8 ton press instead of a 12?
    Last edited by Dr. T; 07-04-2015 at 08:48 PM.

  15. #90
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    I used a 12 ton press, primarily because of the size of the opening. I removed and pressed in all of the bushings with this press. I got some steel pipe piece of various diameters from the local metal mart and used those instead of purchasing the $700 toolset from BMW - works exactly the same.
    '93 850Ci - Mineralweiss Metallic
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    BMWCCA E31 Chapter President



    ...the price of cool ain't cheap!

  16. #91
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    Tx, thanks for the reply. Can you recall how many different sized diameters and lengths are required for the job?

    Would the local H. Depot/Lowes have every size needed, or would I have to go to a pipe specialty shop?
    Last edited by Dr. T; 07-05-2015 at 02:37 PM.

  17. #92
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    There were only three diameters that I used to press the bushings in and out. I also had the bushing press kit from Harbor Freight to use as standoffs. The pipe pieces were only like 2-1/2" to 3" tall.
    '93 850Ci - Mineralweiss Metallic
    ALPINA B7 -Alpinweiss III

    BMWCCA E31 Chapter President



    ...the price of cool ain't cheap!

  18. #93
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    Calgary, Canada
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    '91 E31 850i,'05 E53 4.4
    Quote Originally Posted by e31jann View Post
    I did - sort of. I ordered the CSi bushings -- the center shaft alignment isn't perfect, but it's much better than the last set and close enough that I'm going to use them.
    So is this enough reason to step up to polyU bushings or Spherical (Wokke's)? Quality control issues suck.
    I can buy the OE and CSi rear trailing arm's front bushing each for $82 USD and $122 USD respectively now on ECS tunings site...
    gotta get this fixed this winter as I have sheared bushings currently. Car still seems to handle nicely tho.
    I swear, my cars are like a girlfriend.
    Sometimes its a rough ride, sometimes its smooth motorin'.
    Sometimes she doesnt like how i treat her and sometimes i dont like how she behaves.
    BUT at the end of the day, she loves it when I am inside her.

  19. #94
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    Stay away from that PolyU crap - it has no longevity at all...
    '93 850Ci - Mineralweiss Metallic
    ALPINA B7 -Alpinweiss III

    BMWCCA E31 Chapter President



    ...the price of cool ain't cheap!

  20. #95
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
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    Cleveland Wi
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    1991 BMW 850i
    +1 definitely quality time in the shop after first snowfall
    "91 850i diamantschwarz"

  21. #96
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    Feb 2005
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    '91 E31 850i,'05 E53 4.4
    Quote Originally Posted by e31jann View Post
    Making some progress - got the old bushings out of the trailing arms. Have a question about how to clock the new bushings in the arms. You can see in the pic below that the center shaft alignment is all over the place (right side is the original alignment) -- I assume it spins? I can't budge it. Should I just match the factory positioning of the rubber? Even that looks wrong to me -- shouldn't the fat rubber part be along the thrust of the bushing, instead of up and down?? It must be right, it's original...am I over-thinking this? Are these gigantic images annoying?

    So has anyone else ordered OE bushings and experienced bad clocking of the rubber/metal arm inside the metal housing?
    I need to order a set ASAP and I'm looking for any advice on if BMW has upped their quality control on these parts.

    the original parts lasted me about 24 years, so longevity seems to be quite ok. I love the Wokke idea, but worry that they may induce road vibration and cause more stress on the other ball joints of the trailing arm to wear faster.
    I swear, my cars are like a girlfriend.
    Sometimes its a rough ride, sometimes its smooth motorin'.
    Sometimes she doesnt like how i treat her and sometimes i dont like how she behaves.
    BUT at the end of the day, she loves it when I am inside her.

  22. #97
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    Jul 2009
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    Del Mar, CA
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    91 850i, 01 740i, 06 760
    Quote Originally Posted by clockwork View Post
    So is this enough reason to step up to polyU bushings or Spherical (Wokke's)? Quality control issues suck.
    I can buy the OE and CSi rear trailing arm's front bushing each for $82 USD and $122 USD respectively now on ECS tunings site...
    gotta get this fixed this winter as I have sheared bushings currently. Car still seems to handle nicely tho.
    Those $82 bushings are now $118! Wish I'd bought some last year.

  23. #98
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    Feb 2005
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    Calgary, Canada
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    '91 E31 850i,'05 E53 4.4
    yeah i noticed. and the CSi bushings used to be just $117 and now are $187. damn i should have bought them back in sept/oct
    having said that if i knew the CSi did have great QA/QC compared to the normal non CSi bushings id pay the extra charge just for the confidence/convenience of maybe not having to return them after receiving in mail.
    Last edited by clockwork; 02-10-2016 at 12:16 AM.
    I swear, my cars are like a girlfriend.
    Sometimes its a rough ride, sometimes its smooth motorin'.
    Sometimes she doesnt like how i treat her and sometimes i dont like how she behaves.
    BUT at the end of the day, she loves it when I am inside her.

  24. #99
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
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    Calgary, Canada
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    909
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    '91 E31 850i,'05 E53 4.4
    Quote Originally Posted by m10n View Post
    ok, i'm just looking at this picture. something appears defective about the bushing in the center, the mounting shaft should not be in that position and would appear to be free spinning in the rubber, thus is not functional as designed. it needs to be returned and they should be oriented like the other 2 in the picture
    m10n, can I ask about your comment of the mounting shaft looking to be free spinning and therefore not functioning as possible?
    No I have never held one of these bushings before so i'm not sure if the metal arm does or does not rotate inside that metal sleeve.
    But wouldnt it be smarter if the metal arm could rotate inside that metal sleeve that is bonded to be rubber mold?
    It would be more beneficial if it WAS to spin freely in the rubber, without moving laterally as that would be a great design would it not?
    Then the car's suspension could articulate without putting any rotational stress on the rubber mold, and hence the same design as what Wokke has made with his spherical bushings.

    just thinking out loud

    Wokke, do you have any pics of your rear trailing arm's front bushing?
    I swear, my cars are like a girlfriend.
    Sometimes its a rough ride, sometimes its smooth motorin'.
    Sometimes she doesnt like how i treat her and sometimes i dont like how she behaves.
    BUT at the end of the day, she loves it when I am inside her.

  25. #100
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Croatia
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    157
    My Cars
    1992 BMW 850i 4spd
    I have just tackled the job of removing the rear carrier and i found some of the shelf sphericals that fit in place of the control arm bushes. Should i put those in or stay with rubber? The sphericals will be more precise, but our rear suspension has only 4 rubber elements per side, would removing 2 of them put too much stress on parts such as beer cans?

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