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I bought the Meguiar's DA polisher that you attach to a household drill, though my drill only gets to 1500RPM. I also bought the red compounding pads for cutting with the Meguiars Ultimate Compound.
First go at it and while it did remove a lot of oxidation, it's still visible, especially under direct sunlight.
Advice?
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you might need a heavier duty buffer?
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Meg's ultimate compound is not going to get rid of heavy oxidation as it is a product built so the average joe can use it without screwing up their paint. Try something like Meg's 105 and then follow up with 205
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You might also consider trying a chemical paint cleaner designed to remove oxidation like this. A locally available option would be Mothers Pre-Wax Cleaner, you can find it at Pep Boys. Like others said though, you might need a better polisher like a Griots Garage 6" DA, and if the chemical paint cleaner doesn't work then definitely step up to something along the lines of Meguiars D300. Foam pads IME are also better at removing oxidation than microfiber; the MF pads clog up quickly with oxidized paint.
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A drill isn't going to cut it. A DA or rotary buffer will get up to 7k RPM. Meg's UC will work on 90% of applications with the right machine and pads.
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meg 105/205 brought my hazed out , sunfaded, b/ rot red 1990 e30 to wonderful luster....using PC DA...I clayed it first if that counts at all......orange and white pads.
amazing.
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chemical painter cleaner might also fade the true colour of car. I am also searching for a wax or polish ,compound. till now I am using some kinda local waxes because they were cheap. but they are useless too. I just get to know from you tube about a wax called fukken wax. I can share a link of that video please give your reviews after seeing that video !!!!thanks in advance !!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dVX2L3eDzAw
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Originally Posted by eddie044
Troll. One post to show the Fukken wax gimmick...
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Oxidized paint is a tough problem to solve, and no wax is going to help, in fact, it usually makes problem worse causing more of a haze than a shine. In some cases, depending on paint and clear coat thickness, you may be able to compound out the dull paint, but you have to be careful or you might go right through paint to primer.
As with all paint situations, it depends on the car, but if the paint is that bad, as is the case with many red cars under hot sun and climate situations, the key is to protect it from these harsh conditions. One of the products I have used is CeraCoat-NanoTech, a ceraminc nanotechnology which protects paint like nothing else I have evaluated, and I have evaluated them all. Watch how the water beads up and rolls off surface is how you tell what the protection level is. In fact, dirt doesn't stick to surface any longer, so a simple rinse off with plain water is all you need to wash car, no more harsh cleaners killing your wax job in short time span. It can also help with oxidization, but only if you apply several coats and it does revitalize plastics as I use it to renew plexiglass signs which always oxidize, epecailly red signs. There is another product I use on heavy equipment, trucks, railroad cars as example which are dull due to oxidation, and this is a clearcoat that required very little preperation other than good high detergent cleaner and drying. It will put a long term gloss back with just one coat. It is not a paint, but nanotechnology coating which seals paint and protects it, pretty amazing results overall if you can live with a less than perfect paint finish as it does leave a slight orange peel effect, but when cured, you can apply wax to improve shine. Goes on with standard spray gun.
Good luck,
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