Awesome work, as usual! Keep the pics & info coming.
Cheers
E30-LS1 Swap Guide and Kits, email us at e30ls1@gmail.com !!! or check our website e30ls1.wordpress.com
Omg so bad ass
Even though I despise how fragile the S62s are, yet I'm sad to see it go. I admire your ingenuity and craftsmanship. Good luck.
I admire the craftsmanship and wasnt too surprised when i saw the brand of caliper you are using. . I have the same one at work but i admit i have a Harbor Freight one i use at home.. .
Ive been reading about the LS swaps for E39's since i bought mine a few months ago (food for thought). Ive got one LS swapped car already and its always interesting to see the different challenges these engine swaps pose for each chassis.
Jon
'03 BMW E39 540i M-Sport : Black Sapphire Metallic, 6-speed. #1124 of 1190
'97 BMW E36 M3 : Arctic Silver - Sold July 2014
My M62 seems to have ANOTHER leaking valley pan -- tiresome.... (and still no prospects for adding any power at a reasonable cost)
Watching this thread VERY carefully!
By the way Schitzo, knowing now that you are working under the car on jack stands, I am even more impressed with what you accomplish. I would go so far as to say I am in awe! I always figured you had a nice little 2-post hoist or something, with the great work you crank out.
Last edited by tptrsn; 11-27-2014 at 08:59 AM.
^^^ Thanks fellas
Worked on opening the shifter hole so that the shifter could be installed from within the car. I cut off only as much material as needed to get the shifter base to fit.
The shifter itself is an amalgamation of MGW parts including a shifter base for a 2000 - 2004 Mustang, a shifter rod adapter for a 2005 - 2009 mustang, and a shifter rod for a 4th gen F-body. MGW was kind enough to allow me to mix and match the parts to make a shifter that works for me.
I'll need to fabricate a little plate to cover up the hole around the shifter so as to seal that area.
2003 M5 LSx l 6 Spd Manual l 4.10 LSD
Build Thread
The chassis must always be regarded as a means to an end and never as an end itself
So much win! Its threads like this that inspire me, but also make me feel inadequate at the same time. But I do make great popcorn. Rock on brotha!
crazy thread.
That's awesome. I wish my shifter came out that far back. Reverse is a little tough in my car because of the length of my relay shifter.
Schtizo, just PM'd you about the LS1 GTO/E38 we're working on.
Before I can fabricate the headers, I need to have everything that could potentially interfere with the headers installed in its final place. One of those items is the oil temp sensor. I needed to locate it somewhere within the oil pan sump. I chose the passenger side of the sump since the driver side is already tight due to the steering linkage.
I'm using a GM oil sensor which is the same sensor as used for the coolant temp on LS engines. It requires a flat sealing surface with M12 x 1.5 thread. I needed to weld a bung with this thread onto the oil pan.
Some of the tools/parts needed to complete the job.
The steel plug was left over from the 8.8 project and needs to be drilled and tapped for the desired metric thread. For this job, I used a 7/16" drill bit. For metric thread, subtracting the thread pitch from the thread major diameter should give you the size of drill bit to use. In this case, 12mm - 1.5mm = 11mm (0.433"). The drill bit closest to this that I had was the 7/16". Once the bushing was drilled, tapped, and cut to the appropriate length, I drilled a 7/8" hole onto the oil pan sump into which the bung will fit. I used a stepped drill bit to make the 7/8" hole.
Oil pan and bung all clean and ready for welding. I needed to remove all the zinc plating from the surface before welding since I don't have a respirator. Inhaling the zinc fumes from welding is a big
Welded (80 amps, 60 pps, 50% peak, 30% background). Full penetration was not necessary. Once welded, the top of the bung was filed smooth to ensure the cooper washers on the sensor will provide a good seal.
View from inside the pan; the sensor has adequate stick out into the pan.
On the car
The pan is a far cry from what it looked like new. It took quite a beating from all the MN winter salt. Since I do not plan on driving this car in the winter, I will have the pan either powdercoated or zinc plated. I reached out to Champ Pans who make this pan to see if I can send it to them for zinc coating. Champ pans are the same guys that make the Autokraft oil pan; good people to deal with.
2003 M5 LSx l 6 Spd Manual l 4.10 LSD
Build Thread
The chassis must always be regarded as a means to an end and never as an end itself
Nice welding job, someday I'll be able to approach your skill level.
Thanks for info on our LS1/GTO/E38 project, it's running.
Glad you fixed the issue.
As for welding, I'm still learning but these guys' Youtube channels have been great resources.
Jody, who runs the channel below has lots of welding videos you can learn from. I have picked out lots of great tips from him.
https://www.youtube.com/user/welding...dtricks/videos
The one below (Keith Fenner) does mostly machining but will occasionally have a tip or two on welding and brazing. I got to meet him when I was down in the cape a couple months ago. Great guy to talk with and is a BAMF with a lathe/mill.
https://www.youtube.com/user/KEF791/videos
Last edited by Schitzo; 12-09-2014 at 06:34 PM.
2003 M5 LSx l 6 Spd Manual l 4.10 LSD
Build Thread
The chassis must always be regarded as a means to an end and never as an end itself
Sorry, but I'm not finding the thread I thought you did on your Ford diff install/adaptation... Is there one? If so, can you maybe shoot out some good search terms for it, or a link?
Thanks!!!
Link is on post #1
2003 M5 LSx l 6 Spd Manual l 4.10 LSD
Build Thread
The chassis must always be regarded as a means to an end and never as an end itself
Oh great, thanks! I was working my way through your other big thread called Meet My LSx Powered 528i. Your threads are full of win!!! Lol A lot of the old pics aren't working though, are they gone?
I tried Pm'ing you, but apparently it isn't working for me. I am starting a substantially similar build (02 530i, LS (LQ4), t56, and a single turbo). I wondered how much the custom built t56 magnum xl cost you, and if liberty would be willing to do one for someone else as well? I like the way it fits perfectly. I'm sure there are other ways to make a T56 work, but this seems the most proper.
Rob
Prior projects:
1998 540i with 6.6 LS2/T56 Chevy Power
- pictures and details
1992 325i with 6.6 LS2/T56 Chevy power - pictures and details
1995 M3 with 6.6 LS2/T56 Chevy power - pictures and details
No offense intended. Any and all advice welcome. Including issues with shifter placement and such. I only said this about his because it seemed to line up better than any I have seen in my searching.
GTO shifter on a T56 lines up perfectly or very close, depending on the exact placement of the engine.
Rob
Prior projects:
1998 540i with 6.6 LS2/T56 Chevy Power
- pictures and details
1992 325i with 6.6 LS2/T56 Chevy power - pictures and details
1995 M3 with 6.6 LS2/T56 Chevy power - pictures and details
I am using a "regular T56" The 6060 is different and the Magnum puts the shifter too far forward.
Rob
Prior projects:
1998 540i with 6.6 LS2/T56 Chevy Power
- pictures and details
1992 325i with 6.6 LS2/T56 Chevy power - pictures and details
1995 M3 with 6.6 LS2/T56 Chevy power - pictures and details
rao, thanks for the information. That helps a lot.
Thanks
The links are broken but I still have the original pics; just no time to re-upload them. I have saved the ones from the 8.8 rebuild in thier current size so I can easily re-upload them if they too disappear.
PM returned.
Here is the bellhousing I alluded to in the PM.
http://lakewoodindustries.com/drivet...t56-chevy.html
It's worth looking into.
+1. that's what I used on my previous swap.
2003 M5 LSx l 6 Spd Manual l 4.10 LSD
Build Thread
The chassis must always be regarded as a means to an end and never as an end itself
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