S52, OBD2 RK 60lb, cutring and spacer, ARP head studs, GT3582R, AA bottom mount, Tial 44mm WG, Tial QR BOV, Vibrant 3.5" IC, FX stage 4 clutch, hobbs switch meth injection, working AC, and 516 RWHP!
97 BMW M3 | 96 VW Passat TDI | 87 Porsche 930 | 92 Toyota Pickup | 00 S10 ZR2
'97 M3, Estoril blue, 2 dr, euro 6-spd, EFR 9180 divided T4 .92 IWG, RK tuning, CP 8.5:1 pistons, Eagle rods, Schrick cams, L19 11 mm ARP studs, O-ringed block, Supertech stainless/inconel valves, Supertech springs & Ti retainers, ported head, S54 oil pump/pan, 80 lb. injectors, OBD1 intake manifold, Steedspeed twin scroll T4, 3.5" SS exhaust, eBoost2 EBC, HFS-4 W/M injection, AEM Failsafe, Zeitronix data logger, Racelogic TC, OpenOBC w. ethanol %, Ireland Eng. engine mounts, UUC black tranny mounts w. enforcers, UUC twin disc feramic, ARC-8's, MCS 2-ways, Z3 rack, Rallyroad strut bar, X brace, Eibach sway bars, Ground Control LCAB bushings, Bimmerworld RTAB's, Powerflex subframe bushings, 210 4-clutch LSD, Stoptech BBK, titainium shims, steel braided lines, brake cooling ducts.
flex seal them V-bands then crack a cold one!
Finally got the head back today! It was hot tanked, checked for cracks, resurfaced, valves were cleaned, and new seals were installed.
I should be able to get the head back on this weekend. Also, I spoke to John at CES and he said to install the arp studs with lube on both sides. I know some people have been installing them dry in the block.
Looks great.
I know that I installed the supplied lube on the block threads. I thought that was the whole point.
This is my signature....
gentlemen,
you could be ok. CES is pretty good. you might not be ok. when a fastening strategy is developed it is a balance of many things. Sometimes joints are not lubricated if they want the fastenerr to have a high resistance to rotation or what is called a high prevailing torque. Something subject to vibration or whatever would be one reason to select non lubricated fasteners.
Also a very hard joint that is made up of things like cast iron may only take180 degrees of rotation to go from 0 to full torque. This does not leave allot of room for stretch(yes it still stretches just very quickly). When you add lubrication you make the joint even harder. Maybe full torque in 90 degrees. One is not better or worse than the other universally. This is where the warning come from
lubrication=more torque per degree of rotation forward or reverse very similar to hard metals
dry=less torque per degree of rotation similar to soft metals soft metals are easier to damage.
You get less warning of pending damage by artificially making the joint harder with lubrication.
This all assumes that ARP paid a lab to do a joint study and then published recommendations based on that study. A balance of all of the data was found. Not that the original study is infallible or that someone else could find that a different procedure gives you more of something that is more important than another thing, but take caution when walking outside of published recommendations.
CES is a great source of improvements and intelligence but keep in mind that it could be a compromise or even meant for a specific application.
Seriously not trying to piss on a parade or pound my chest but I have good intentions towards you and I know you have good intentions for BF.C. You guys are smart guys and have it in hand, just pass it on if you can.
Last edited by bry195; 01-20-2015 at 10:31 PM.
I was able to install the head today. I did 35 ft lbs and will do 60 ft lbs, loosen the head studs a quarter of a turn, and 60 again tomorrow. Followed by 85 ft lbs on Monday. I also worked on the gauges and getting them properly wired. I don't know why aerometer would supply plastic vacuum lines but I'll be quickly replacing it.
Lookin' good!
- - - Updated - - -
Did you use the supplied lube? Also how much did the head work cost you? I'm comparing a couple different places locally for a friends head (doing the same exact thing they did to yours) and am curious if the quotes I've been getting are 'on par' with the shop you used. Also what RA did they resurface the head to?
Yes, I used all of the supplied lube. I did a little bit on the studs that go into the block but I used most of it on the friction surfaces(nut, stud threads, and head surface). The head work cost me $275 for hot tank, pressure test, valve job, and resurface. I'm not sure what RA they made the head but they build high horsepower engines so I wasn't worried. Plus the cutring gasket has silicone linings around the ports that accomodate for leaks. If I was doing MLS I would def have been more concerned.
1996 332IS
Built 3.2
CES/Steed TS Precision 6466, spraying a "$π!℅" load of meth.
Technique Tuning 80# tune.
1/4 mile 10.84 @ 136.72
Your 1 and only stop for all your BMW performance needs
WWW.CESMOTORSPORT.COM
1996 332IS
Built 3.2
CES/Steed TS Precision 6466, spraying a "$π!℅" load of meth.
Technique Tuning 80# tune.
1/4 mile 10.84 @ 136.72
Your 1 and only stop for all your BMW performance needs
WWW.CESMOTORSPORT.COM
Regardless after the first 800 miles I would do a retorque
lol, its really just about joint and gasket settling right? its not like he is forgetting about keeping the room at 78 degrees during the settling time! 70% relative humidity and the dew point....what the hell is the dew point anyways.
OLD
E30
636whp
1/4 mile: 10.91@144.38
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L_f7fUVqblI
NEW BUILD
335d
520whp
635wtq
120.51mph trap speed
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