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Thread: My first turbo build....m52/t4spa/6262

  1. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by Butters Stoch View Post
    Heat wrap that silicone coupler and make sure to clock the turbo with the silicone closer to the block , as much as you can. Or you will have boost leak after first drive.
    You don't think a wired 4ply heat resistant coupler will be enough for the heat? I guess I'll heat wrap it too then. I also plan getting the oem hood vented because of the heatsoak.

  2. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmw328m52 View Post
    You don't think a wired 4ply heat resistant coupler will be enough for the heat? I guess I'll heat wrap it too then. I also plan getting the oem hood vented because of the heatsoak.
    I'm planning to use v-bands instead of silicone couplers under the manifold for just that reason. I will probably still heat wrap from the turbo to under the AC anyway. I've got a turbo blanket to cut down on under hood temps, but am interested in your venting plan.
    S52, OBD2 RK 60lb, cutring and spacer, ARP head studs, GT3582R, AA bottom mount, Tial 44mm WG, Tial QR BOV, Vibrant 3.5" IC, FX stage 4 clutch, hobbs switch meth injection, working AC, and 516 RWHP!
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  3. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by fletcher0780 View Post

    I'm planning to use v-bands instead of silicone couplers under the manifold for just that reason. I will probably still heat wrap from the turbo to under the AC anyway. I've got a turbo blanket to cut down on under hood temps, but am interested in your venting plan.
    That's a good idea on the heat wrap. Ill prob get a turbo blanket as well tho. Hopefully the wrap, blanket, and modified hood will be enough

  4. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by fletcher0780 View Post

    I'm planning to use v-bands instead of silicone couplers under the manifold for just that reason. I will probably still heat wrap from the turbo to under the AC anyway. I've got a turbo blanket to cut down on under hood temps, but am interested in your venting plan.
    V-bands will not give you as good of a seal as a coupler will and it will be a difficult location to check for a boost leak.

    Sent from my GTX3582R
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  5. #80
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    flex seal them V-bands then crack a cold one!


  6. #81
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    Finally got the head back today! It was hot tanked, checked for cracks, resurfaced, valves were cleaned, and new seals were installed.





    I should be able to get the head back on this weekend. Also, I spoke to John at CES and he said to install the arp studs with lube on both sides. I know some people have been installing them dry in the block.

  7. #82
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    Looks great.

    I know that I installed the supplied lube on the block threads. I thought that was the whole point.
    This is my signature....

  8. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by BadBoostedBmwM3 View Post
    Looks great.

    I know that I installed the supplied lube on the block threads. I thought that was the whole point.
    Same here haha. But some people swear that you should not. John sent me some pretty detailed instructions or at least key points that I will try to post to make it clear for everyone.

  9. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmw328m52 View Post
    Same here haha. But some people swear that you should not. John sent me some pretty detailed instructions or at least key points that I will try to post to make it clear for everyone.
    gentlemen,

    you could be ok. CES is pretty good. you might not be ok. when a fastening strategy is developed it is a balance of many things. Sometimes joints are not lubricated if they want the fastenerr to have a high resistance to rotation or what is called a high prevailing torque. Something subject to vibration or whatever would be one reason to select non lubricated fasteners.

    Also a very hard joint that is made up of things like cast iron may only take180 degrees of rotation to go from 0 to full torque. This does not leave allot of room for stretch(yes it still stretches just very quickly). When you add lubrication you make the joint even harder. Maybe full torque in 90 degrees. One is not better or worse than the other universally. This is where the warning come from

    lubrication=more torque per degree of rotation forward or reverse very similar to hard metals
    dry=less torque per degree of rotation similar to soft metals soft metals are easier to damage.
    You get less warning of pending damage by artificially making the joint harder with lubrication.

    This all assumes that ARP paid a lab to do a joint study and then published recommendations based on that study. A balance of all of the data was found. Not that the original study is infallible or that someone else could find that a different procedure gives you more of something that is more important than another thing, but take caution when walking outside of published recommendations.

    CES is a great source of improvements and intelligence but keep in mind that it could be a compromise or even meant for a specific application.

    Seriously not trying to piss on a parade or pound my chest but I have good intentions towards you and I know you have good intentions for BF.C. You guys are smart guys and have it in hand, just pass it on if you can.
    Last edited by bry195; 01-20-2015 at 10:31 PM.

  10. #85
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    I was able to install the head today. I did 35 ft lbs and will do 60 ft lbs, loosen the head studs a quarter of a turn, and 60 again tomorrow. Followed by 85 ft lbs on Monday. I also worked on the gauges and getting them properly wired. I don't know why aerometer would supply plastic vacuum lines but I'll be quickly replacing it.




  11. #86
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    Lookin' good!

    - - - Updated - - -

    Did you use the supplied lube? Also how much did the head work cost you? I'm comparing a couple different places locally for a friends head (doing the same exact thing they did to yours) and am curious if the quotes I've been getting are 'on par' with the shop you used. Also what RA did they resurface the head to?

  12. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by m3mods View Post
    Lookin' good!

    - - - Updated - - -

    Did you use the supplied lube? Also how much did the head work cost you? I'm comparing a couple different places locally for a friends head (doing the same exact thing they did to yours) and am curious if the quotes I've been getting are 'on par' with the shop you used. Also what RA did they resurface the head to?
    Yes, I used all of the supplied lube. I did a little bit on the studs that go into the block but I used most of it on the friction surfaces(nut, stud threads, and head surface). The head work cost me $275 for hot tank, pressure test, valve job, and resurface. I'm not sure what RA they made the head but they build high horsepower engines so I wasn't worried. Plus the cutring gasket has silicone linings around the ports that accomodate for leaks. If I was doing MLS I would def have been more concerned.

  13. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmw328m52 View Post
    Yes, I used all of the supplied lube. I did a little bit on the studs that go into the block but I used most of it on the friction surfaces(nut, stud threads, and head surface). The head work cost me $275 for hot tank, pressure test, valve job, and resurface. I'm not sure what RA they made the head but they build high horsepower engines so I wasn't worried. Plus the cutring gasket has silicone linings around the ports that accomodate for leaks. If I was doing MLS I would def have been more concerned.
    Nice. With a cutring I wouldn't be too worried about what RA either. As long as you're at least around RA50 I'm sure it'll be fine. Look forward to more progress!

  14. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by m3mods View Post
    Nice. With a cutring I wouldn't be too worried about what RA either. As long as you're at least around RA50 I'm sure it'll be fine. Look forward to more progress!
    That's what I'm thinking. And thanks man!

  15. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by m3mods View Post
    Lookin' good!
    yea, it does!

  16. #91
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    ARP's torqued to 60 ft lbs.

  17. #92
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmw328m52 View Post
    ARP's torqued to 60 ft lbs.
    Head studs needs more than that.
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  18. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by Butters Stoch View Post
    Head studs needs more than that.
    he is waiting until tomorrow to torque to 85 lbs

  19. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by wishingtree View Post
    he is waiting until tomorrow to torque to 85 lbs
    Tq to 85 today and recheck tomorrow
    1996 332IS
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    Your 1 and only stop for all your BMW performance needs
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  20. #95
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    Quote Originally Posted by Butters Stoch View Post
    Tq to 85 today and recheck tomorrow
    I'm trying to convey that to him haha.

  21. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by Butters Stoch View Post
    Tq to 85 today and recheck tomorrow
    Quote Originally Posted by wishingtree View Post
    I'm trying to convey that to him haha.

    I think he's going by that ces cutring install post John made a while back. It says to torque them in 3 stages with a day wait time in between.

  22. #97
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    Regardless after the first 800 miles I would do a retorque

  23. #98
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    lol, its really just about joint and gasket settling right? its not like he is forgetting about keeping the room at 78 degrees during the settling time! 70% relative humidity and the dew point....what the hell is the dew point anyways.

  24. #99
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    Quote Originally Posted by E36 HateR View Post
    Regardless after the first 800 miles I would do a retorque
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  25. #100
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    Final torque check done...hard part is finally done!

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