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Thread: My first turbo build....m52/t4spa/6262

  1. #26
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    Got a picture of your intake pipe off of the turbo? 3" 22.5° or 45° bend?
    S52, OBD2 RK 60lb, cutring and spacer, ARP head studs, GT3582R, AA bottom mount, Tial 44mm WG, Tial QR BOV, Vibrant 3.5" IC, FX stage 4 clutch, hobbs switch meth injection, working AC, and 516 RWHP!
    97 BMW M3
    | 96 VW Passat TDI | 87 Porsche 930 | 92 Toyota Pickup | 00 S10 ZR2

  2. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by fletcher0780 View Post
    Got a picture of your intake pipe off of the turbo? 3" 22.5° or 45° bend?
    I didn't take a picture off the intake pipe. But its basically just a 45 degree bend. I had to play around with the length of it though. It will vary depending on turbo size.

  3. #28
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    Thanks, I ordered an aluminum mandrel 3" 45°, but the angle of your picture looked like less of an angle. Did I miss you pulling the head, or have you not made it that far yet? I ended up paying $200 for pressure testing/planing. I'm waiting on parts to fab intake and hot side now, so I decided to clean up the block and spray bomb it flat black.
    S52, OBD2 RK 60lb, cutring and spacer, ARP head studs, GT3582R, AA bottom mount, Tial 44mm WG, Tial QR BOV, Vibrant 3.5" IC, FX stage 4 clutch, hobbs switch meth injection, working AC, and 516 RWHP!
    97 BMW M3
    | 96 VW Passat TDI | 87 Porsche 930 | 92 Toyota Pickup | 00 S10 ZR2

  4. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by fletcher0780 View Post
    Thanks, I ordered an aluminum mandrel 3" 45°, but the angle of your picture looked like less of an angle. Did I miss you pulling the head, or have you not made it that far yet? I ended up paying $200 for pressure testing/planing. I'm waiting on parts to fab intake and hot side now, so I decided to clean up the block and spray bomb it flat black.
    I'd get a straight 3" just in case the angle is less. That way you can cut the 45 and weld on a separate piece to fit your application if its different. And the head was not pulled until literally 10 min ago. It was fully unbolted/unwired but not lifted off the block since it required some help. One of my friends at bimmerworld said he could help tonight so we went to my shop in Mexico. I can't thank him or the other people at bimmerworld enough for all the advice they've given me in the past. At this point, I'm deciding whether I want to go fully built. I knew this would happen.


  5. #30
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    ^ for your power goals, why build it?

  6. #31
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    97 328is 02 e46 330xi
    Reuse or cryo treat your pistons/new rings and egal rods. You don't have to go balls to the wall on a full engine build bfc Fi style to good results. E36 heater is a great example of that. If you haven't checked out his build have a look.

  7. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by jszy25 View Post
    ^ for your power goals, why build it?
    Power goals would obviously go up to 500 range haha. 400whp is for cutring setup which is what I'll remain to shoot for.

  8. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmw328m52 View Post
    Power goals would obviously go up to 500 range haha. 400whp is for cutring setup which is what I'll remain to shoot for.
    M52, right? 500whp (~450wtq or so)is easily attainable on the stock bottom end.

    I'm at 570whp on my S52 stock bottom end with less head gasket sealing surface area than you and its daily drivable.

  9. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by autowa View Post
    Reuse or cryo treat your pistons/new rings and egal rods. You don't have to go balls to the wall on a full engine build bfc Fi style to good results. E36 heater is a great example of that. If you haven't checked out his build have a look.
    Of course I've heard of Franc's build! But yeah I understand completely...I'll keep my fingers crossed for the cutring setup for now.

  10. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by jszy25 View Post

    M52, right? 500whp (~450wtq or so)is easily attainable on the stock bottom end.

    I'm at 570whp on my S52 stock bottom end with less head gasket sealing surface area than you and its daily drivable.
    That's awesome! A buddy of mine has a 318ti with built m52 bored to 2.9l. Running a gt35r at 20psi he makes 500/500. This is with vanos locked and m52 cams. Very conservative but reliable build

  11. #36
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    I was able to get the block prepped for the head yesterday. Because some people on the forum said that honing stones can be harmful deposits in the motor, I only used wet or dry sandpaper with some wd-40 and lacquer thinner. I went from 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1500. Probably about 15 passes on each grit. Scotch brite pads, brake cleaner, and razor blades were used on the piston. I may do some more passes with 1500 grit tho.


    Last edited by bmw328m52; 01-03-2015 at 06:24 PM.

  12. #37
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    Block cleaned up nice. I just used a high quality flat file and worked it over the block in different directions until all the low spots were gone. I noticed low spots between every cylinder. I used a bit of sandpaper wrapped around the file to remove any scratches, but should have worked my way through the grades like you to achieve a mirror finish. To be honest, I was more concerned with the high/low spots since I think the copper spacer will help with minor imperfections.

    Is your turbo water cooled? If so, where are you tapping into the cooling system?
    Last edited by fletcher0780; 01-03-2015 at 08:13 PM.
    S52, OBD2 RK 60lb, cutring and spacer, ARP head studs, GT3582R, AA bottom mount, Tial 44mm WG, Tial QR BOV, Vibrant 3.5" IC, FX stage 4 clutch, hobbs switch meth injection, working AC, and 516 RWHP!
    97 BMW M3
    | 96 VW Passat TDI | 87 Porsche 930 | 92 Toyota Pickup | 00 S10 ZR2

  13. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by fletcher0780 View Post
    Bock cleaned up nice. I just used a high quality flat file and worked it over the block in different directions until all the low spots were gone. I noticed low spots between every cylinder. I used a bit of sandpaper wrapped around the file to remove any scratches, but should have worked my way through the grades like you to achieve a mirror finish. To be honest, I was more concerned with the high/low spots since I think the copper spacer will help with minor imperfections.

    Is your turbo water cooled? If so, where are you tapping into the cooling system?
    The copper gasket is pliable and the addition of copper spray should help a lot with the imperfections. I'm more worried about the cutrings staying in place when putting on the head. My turbo is not watercooled so I'm not really sure where the best spot is.

  14. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmw328m52 View Post
    The copper gasket is pliable and the addition of copper spray should help a lot with the imperfections. I'm more worried about the cutrings staying in place when putting on the head. My turbo is not watercooled so I'm not really sure where the best spot is.
    As you know, I installed the HG and head on an engine stand. Having the top surface of the block level made it very easy to install, and I didn't realize people had trouble with the rings staying in place. If I were to do this in the car, Id consider jacking up the passenger side to bring the block closer to level.
    S52, OBD2 RK 60lb, cutring and spacer, ARP head studs, GT3582R, AA bottom mount, Tial 44mm WG, Tial QR BOV, Vibrant 3.5" IC, FX stage 4 clutch, hobbs switch meth injection, working AC, and 516 RWHP!
    97 BMW M3
    | 96 VW Passat TDI | 87 Porsche 930 | 92 Toyota Pickup | 00 S10 ZR2

  15. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by fletcher0780 View Post
    As you know, I installed the HG and head on an engine stand. Having the top surface of the block level made it very easy to install, and I didn't realize people had trouble with the rings staying in place. If I were to do this in the car, Id consider jacking up the passenger side to bring the block closer to level.
    Thats a good point. How would you only jackup the passenger side tho?

  16. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmw328m52 View Post
    Thats a good point. How would you only jackup the passenger side tho?
    I'd try to jack the entire passenger side of the car. Use a floor jack and jack stands front and back. You won't get it perfectly level, but I be it would help a bit.
    S52, OBD2 RK 60lb, cutring and spacer, ARP head studs, GT3582R, AA bottom mount, Tial 44mm WG, Tial QR BOV, Vibrant 3.5" IC, FX stage 4 clutch, hobbs switch meth injection, working AC, and 516 RWHP!
    97 BMW M3
    | 96 VW Passat TDI | 87 Porsche 930 | 92 Toyota Pickup | 00 S10 ZR2

  17. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by fletcher0780 View Post
    I'd try to jack the entire passenger side of the car. Use a floor jack and jack stands front and back. You won't get it perfectly level, but I be it would help a bit.
    Ahh I thought you were literally talking about lifting the engine. I'm a little tired haha. But yes, I will definitely do that and even when I'm prepping the block one last time. Thanks man!

  18. #43
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    looks nice. good luck.

  19. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by bry195 View Post
    looks nice. good luck.
    I appreciate it.

    At the moment, I've just been messing with the turbo clocking/oil feed. Seems like I can do it two ways.

    1. Clock the oil feed at an angle and use an extended allen to tighten that hard to reach bolt.



    2. Clock the oil feed straight down so that the return line is no longer at an angle but I'll have to take off the s-cover to tighten the same hard to reach bolt.

    I guess my question is does anyone think the angle of the return is too steep in the first picture or can I get away with it?

  20. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmw328m52 View Post
    I appreciate it. At the moment, I've just been messing with the turbo clocking/oil feed. Seems like I can do it two ways. 1. Clock the oil feed at an angle and use an extended allen to tighten that hard to reach bolt. 2. Clock the oil feed straight down so that the return line is no longer at an angle but I'll have to take off the s-cover to tighten the same hard to reach bolt. I guess my question is does anyone think the angle of the return is too steep in the first picture or can I get away with it?
    you might be able to get away with the hose being level with the ground. I did...however you may have a problem. if everything is out of the car do it the hard way because it becomes much harder installed.

  21. #46
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    Any progress with the spacer and HG? I'm curious about the reasoning behind the copper spacer + Cutring (sorry if noob question) I hear the cutting tis the end all HG but I'm confused about the spacer itself...is it to lower compression because you're using stock pistons? I have so much catching up to do MOAR PICS!!!

  22. #47
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    Awesome build! I finished my s52 with a 6262 and boost logic manifold in september but recently took it apart to fix a gasket leak on the exhaust side and to refine some things! I hope to get to the dyno soon, im on 12psi and have similar goals as you. Ill try to post a sheet if i ever make it to the dyno, good luck

    Dream big, work hard, and let what you love, be what you do.

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  23. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eizzy 91 View Post
    Any progress with the spacer and HG? I'm curious about the reasoning behind the copper spacer + Cutring (sorry if noob question) I hear the cutting tis the end all HG but I'm confused about the spacer itself...is it to lower compression because you're using stock pistons? I have so much catching up to do MOAR PICS!!!
    Yes it is used to lower the stock compression. It also allows for more imperfections when prepping the block so it will hopefully hold up much better than the MLS.

    Quote Originally Posted by UltimateAutoM3 View Post
    Awesome build! I finished my s52 with a 6262 and boost logic manifold in september but recently took it apart to fix a gasket leak on the exhaust side and to refine some things! I hope to get to the dyno soon, im on 12psi and have similar goals as you. Ill try to post a sheet if i ever make it to the dyno, good luck
    Are you using the MLS or cutring gasket/spacer? Thanks!

  24. #49
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    ahh I see, i plan on decking the block myself as well, I have heard that the cut ring is bulletproof and that MLS is problematic after time, not knocking your build, I plan on doing the same if I can find a m52 in my area, slap it on an engine stand and just piece it together piece by piece...just have to deal with my N/A S52 for now lol keep steaming ahead dude! good luck!

  25. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eizzy 91 View Post
    ahh I see, i plan on decking the block myself as well, I have heard that the cut ring is bulletproof and that MLS is problematic after time, not knocking your build, I plan on doing the same if I can find a m52 in my area, slap it on an engine stand and just piece it together piece by piece...just have to deal with my N/A S52 for now lol keep steaming ahead dude! good luck!
    I appreciate it man. I'll be dropping off the head to get it hot tanked, get a valve job, and then resurfaced. I'll also be getting the elbow welded on the turbo and the flange welded on the exhaust. I'll post pics of the progress.

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