Got a picture of your intake pipe off of the turbo? 3" 22.5° or 45° bend?
S52, OBD2 RK 60lb, cutring and spacer, ARP head studs, GT3582R, AA bottom mount, Tial 44mm WG, Tial QR BOV, Vibrant 3.5" IC, FX stage 4 clutch, hobbs switch meth injection, working AC, and 516 RWHP!
97 BMW M3 | 96 VW Passat TDI | 87 Porsche 930 | 92 Toyota Pickup | 00 S10 ZR2
Thanks, I ordered an aluminum mandrel 3" 45°, but the angle of your picture looked like less of an angle. Did I miss you pulling the head, or have you not made it that far yet? I ended up paying $200 for pressure testing/planing. I'm waiting on parts to fab intake and hot side now, so I decided to clean up the block and spray bomb it flat black.
S52, OBD2 RK 60lb, cutring and spacer, ARP head studs, GT3582R, AA bottom mount, Tial 44mm WG, Tial QR BOV, Vibrant 3.5" IC, FX stage 4 clutch, hobbs switch meth injection, working AC, and 516 RWHP!
97 BMW M3 | 96 VW Passat TDI | 87 Porsche 930 | 92 Toyota Pickup | 00 S10 ZR2
I'd get a straight 3" just in case the angle is less. That way you can cut the 45 and weld on a separate piece to fit your application if its different. And the head was not pulled until literally 10 min ago. It was fully unbolted/unwired but not lifted off the block since it required some help. One of my friends at bimmerworld said he could help tonight so we went to my shop in Mexico. I can't thank him or the other people at bimmerworld enough for all the advice they've given me in the past. At this point, I'm deciding whether I want to go fully built. I knew this would happen.
^ for your power goals, why build it?
Reuse or cryo treat your pistons/new rings and egal rods. You don't have to go balls to the wall on a full engine build bfc Fi style to good results. E36 heater is a great example of that. If you haven't checked out his build have a look.
I was able to get the block prepped for the head yesterday. Because some people on the forum said that honing stones can be harmful deposits in the motor, I only used wet or dry sandpaper with some wd-40 and lacquer thinner. I went from 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1500. Probably about 15 passes on each grit. Scotch brite pads, brake cleaner, and razor blades were used on the piston. I may do some more passes with 1500 grit tho.
Last edited by bmw328m52; 01-03-2015 at 06:24 PM.
Block cleaned up nice. I just used a high quality flat file and worked it over the block in different directions until all the low spots were gone. I noticed low spots between every cylinder. I used a bit of sandpaper wrapped around the file to remove any scratches, but should have worked my way through the grades like you to achieve a mirror finish. To be honest, I was more concerned with the high/low spots since I think the copper spacer will help with minor imperfections.
Is your turbo water cooled? If so, where are you tapping into the cooling system?
Last edited by fletcher0780; 01-03-2015 at 08:13 PM.
S52, OBD2 RK 60lb, cutring and spacer, ARP head studs, GT3582R, AA bottom mount, Tial 44mm WG, Tial QR BOV, Vibrant 3.5" IC, FX stage 4 clutch, hobbs switch meth injection, working AC, and 516 RWHP!
97 BMW M3 | 96 VW Passat TDI | 87 Porsche 930 | 92 Toyota Pickup | 00 S10 ZR2
As you know, I installed the HG and head on an engine stand. Having the top surface of the block level made it very easy to install, and I didn't realize people had trouble with the rings staying in place. If I were to do this in the car, Id consider jacking up the passenger side to bring the block closer to level.
S52, OBD2 RK 60lb, cutring and spacer, ARP head studs, GT3582R, AA bottom mount, Tial 44mm WG, Tial QR BOV, Vibrant 3.5" IC, FX stage 4 clutch, hobbs switch meth injection, working AC, and 516 RWHP!
97 BMW M3 | 96 VW Passat TDI | 87 Porsche 930 | 92 Toyota Pickup | 00 S10 ZR2
S52, OBD2 RK 60lb, cutring and spacer, ARP head studs, GT3582R, AA bottom mount, Tial 44mm WG, Tial QR BOV, Vibrant 3.5" IC, FX stage 4 clutch, hobbs switch meth injection, working AC, and 516 RWHP!
97 BMW M3 | 96 VW Passat TDI | 87 Porsche 930 | 92 Toyota Pickup | 00 S10 ZR2
looks nice. good luck.
I appreciate it.
At the moment, I've just been messing with the turbo clocking/oil feed. Seems like I can do it two ways.
1. Clock the oil feed at an angle and use an extended allen to tighten that hard to reach bolt.
2. Clock the oil feed straight down so that the return line is no longer at an angle but I'll have to take off the s-cover to tighten the same hard to reach bolt.
I guess my question is does anyone think the angle of the return is too steep in the first picture or can I get away with it?
Any progress with the spacer and HG? I'm curious about the reasoning behind the copper spacer + Cutring (sorry if noob question) I hear the cutting tis the end all HG but I'm confused about the spacer itself...is it to lower compression because you're using stock pistons? I have so much catching up to do MOAR PICS!!!
Awesome build! I finished my s52 with a 6262 and boost logic manifold in september but recently took it apart to fix a gasket leak on the exhaust side and to refine some things! I hope to get to the dyno soon, im on 12psi and have similar goals as you. Ill try to post a sheet if i ever make it to the dyno, good luck
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ahh I see, i plan on decking the block myself as well, I have heard that the cut ring is bulletproof and that MLS is problematic after time, not knocking your build, I plan on doing the same if I can find a m52 in my area, slap it on an engine stand and just piece it together piece by piece...just have to deal with my N/A S52 for now lol keep steaming ahead dude! good luck!
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