E36 obd1 EWS1 problem

[Nazisledder328]

Alright, well this was my last option to make a thread about this because I've researched for hours and hours about the ews system and no one seems to have the same setup as me. Was wondering if anyone has had this problem or can guide me on the bypass.
To start off I have a 95 325i. Now from the research this is a strange year for the ews. Going on, the car has a red label dme factory and definitely has no eccentric ring for the key or module in the glove box. All I've read is people having silver labels with ews2. I am trying to bypass this because the car has no crank, fuel pump noise, or ignition. I have narrowed it down to this. I've seen the immobillizer relay connector under the dash I have to cut and splice but the pin numbers are differently numbered than what I've been seeing. Green wire, black and yellow wire, and one more wire that I can't seem to figure out. Does anyone have any info on this wire or bypass at all? This ews has me very stumped and any help would be appreciated.

[JDStrickland]

Wait a minute.

You turn the key, this sends a low current signal to the starter that closed contacts on a high current switch that makes the starter turn. You can put your high voltage directly onto the starter to force a basic go-no go test. You can also put 12v on the low current tap of the starter to force the actuation of the starter solenoid.

You also need to check the low current tap on the starter to see that it goes to 12v when the key is set to RUN. If no, then you need to look at the ignition switch and the clutch/neutral safety switch. But before you do anything, you need to see if the starter will pass a basic test when voltage is applied. If no, then the starter itself is toast.

The first EWS was introduced in Jan. 94, and in Jan. 95 became EWS II.

If the central locking module does not provide the unlock signal, EWS and EWS II will both prevent the car from starting by inhibiting ignition, fuel injection, and starter motor. EWS II goes further by using a key that is embedded with an identification chip. The car talks to the key, and if the conversation goes as expected then the engine will start, if not then it will inhibit ignition, fuel, and starting just like if the locking module does not provide the unlocking signal. The clutch safety switch or the neutral safety switch are broken, the car will inhibit ignition, fuel, and starting. The antenna ring goes to the transmitter/receiver module, then to the EWS II.

No matter the status of the EWS and related components, you need to do a basic go-no go test on the starter to verify that it comes on. Be sure the car in in Neutral so it does not lurch and land on top of you.

[Nazisledder328]

I replaced the starter thinking it was the problem but nothing, same deal. It has the voltage on wires as well. Now, when you say central locking module do you mean the general module behind the glove box? I found a great link a minute ago showing exactly how the immobilization relay and gm receive info. It says to always connect this gm when the battery is disconnected. So should I unplug it, replug in and lock and unlock doors to make sure it reads? Also on the onboard computer the CODE button has to do with this ews system. Should I have to punch that code in also? I bought the car used awhile ago and don't know it's code. The more and more research I do the more I understand how everything works. I honestly wanted to change out that big yellow immobillizer relay. Maybe that's bad.

[KevinMullins]

Red label 413 dme does not have ews.
Check battery cables at the starter and grounds.
Possibly ignition switch itself.

Verify ignition switching signal to the starter from the ignition switch as JD mentioned.
Dont expect fuel pump and all that until you it to crank.

[Nazisledder328]

This car has ews1 I am telling you. It's a very weird year but I have the immobillizer relay under dash with all of the correct wiring colors from what I've looked up. I've checked ignition switch, power to starter, jumped fuel pump relay, all other relays and fuses, crankshaft position sensor, you name it I've done it. So this leads me right to an ews fault.

[flyfishvt]

It's not a EWS issue. I had the same car as you. Don't mess around with any of the wiring unless you are absolutely 100% sure you know what you're doing. First thing to do us pull every fuse and test them with a meter. Not just a few but all of them. It takes about 15 minutes or less. Next if you don't find any bad fuses is turn the ignition to position 2. Does the Check Engine light come on and stay on?

[JDStrickland]

You can test fuses in place. Apply power and your meter should see 12v on both sides, if only on one side then the fuse is open. Or,if only one side the pull the fuse and test for continuity. But if there is 12v on both sides of a fuse, then it is good.

[Nazisledder328]

The first thing I did was checked all of the fuses and I'm way past that step. I'm going to see if I can get an immobilizer relay at some point.

[flyfishvt]

The first thing I did was checked all of the fuses and I'm way past that step. I'm going to see if I can get an immobilizer relay at some point.

We don't know if you don't tell us. When you tuen on the ignition does the check engine light come on?

[Nazisledder328]

No it does not, and car didn't have one prior to that.

[JDStrickland]

No it does not, and car didn't have one prior to that.

What does that mean?

Your profile says the car is a '95, and all '95s have a Check Engine light. In the USA, the light actually says CHECK ENGINE.

Have you tried feeding power directly to the starter to be sure that it is not corroded shut and refusing to operate? I can't shake the feeling that you have moved to computer failure without diagnosing a basic mechanical failure first.

What is the Production Date of your car?

- - - Updated - - -

I replaced the starter thinking it was the problem but nothing, same deal. It has the voltage on wires as well. Now, when you say central locking module do you mean the general module behind the glove box? I found a great link a minute ago showing exactly how the immobilization relay and gm receive info. It says to always connect this gm when the battery is disconnected. So should I unplug it, replug in and lock and unlock doors to make sure it reads? Also on the onboard computer the CODE button has to do with this ews system. Should I have to punch that code in also? I bought the car used awhile ago and don't know it's code. The more and more research I do the more I understand how everything works. I honestly wanted to change out that big yellow immobillizer relay. Maybe that's bad.

I'm not sure how I missed this post. If somebody input a code into the On Board Computer (OBC) then you need to know the code and enter it else the car will not start. If you need to enter a code, the OBC should say CODE when you turn the key on.If it does not say CODE, then you do not need to enter one. The manner in which you input a code is to press the 1000, 100, 10, and 1 buttons in the proper sequence. (I can look this up and write down the exact procedure if it helps. I do not use this feature on my car and forget how to do it.)

If the car was locked by the key, then the ignition is immobilized until the key comes back and unlocks the door. If you have an aftermarket alarm system, then all bets are off on what the trouble can be. Have you unlocked the driver side door by using the key in the door lock? If you unlocked the doors from the passenger door or the trunk, then maybe the signal is lost and the car is physically unlocked but the general module did not get the message and it still thinks the car is locked and is protecting itself from being stolen.

The car has a clutch safety switch that demands the clutch pedal be depressed before it will initiate engine start. The switch could have come out of its holder and does not know you are holding the pedal down. If an automatic, then there is a Neutral Safety Switch that does exactly the same thing, but is decidedly more reliable.

What is the Production Date of your car?

[EdwardMichael]

Wait a minute.

You turn the key, this sends a low current signal to the starter that closed contacts on a high current switch that makes the starter turn. You can put your high voltage directly onto the starter to force a basic go-no go test. You can also put 12v on the low current tap of the starter to force the actuation of the starter solenoid.

You also need to check the low current tap on the starter to see that it goes to 12v when the key is set to RUN. If no, then you need to look at the ignition switch and the clutch/neutral safety switch. But before you do anything, you need to see if the starter will pass a basic test when voltage is applied. If no, then the starter itself is toast.

The first EWS was introduced in Jan. 94, and in Jan. 95 became EWS II.

If the central locking module does not provide the unlock signal, EWS and EWS II will both prevent the car from starting by inhibiting ignition, fuel injection, and starter motor. EWS II goes further by using a key that is embedded with an identification chip. The car talks to the key, and if the conversation goes as expected then the engine will start, if not then it will inhibit ignition, fuel, and starting just like if the locking module does not provide the unlocking signal. The clutch safety switch or the neutral safety switch are broken, the car will inhibit ignition, fuel, and starting. The antenna ring goes to the transmitter/receiver module, then to the EWS II.

No matter the status of the EWS and related components, you need to do a basic go-no go test on the starter to verify that it comes on. Be sure the car in in Neutral so it does not lurch and land on top of you.

Just picked up a 6/94 325i that the PO says is an ews problem... he has tested the dme in his 95 and the car, his 95, started. He recommends bypassing the whole system and I have looked into the information on qcwo.com website. The performance/ews delete chip seems like a legitimate fix. Is there any feedback from anyone?
dme label on the 94 is maroon. Don’t know how to upload a picture

[flyfishvt]

6/94 e36 does not have ews2. Your issue is somewhere else. Ews2 did not start until 1/95

[spyderg0d]

But it will have drivew away protection.. Thisnis basic security system that involved the door locks.. Lock all doors with the key, unlock all doors with the hey. If that doesnt do it, then you might have a problem with the lock switch in the latch, or the wireing from the switch to the General module.

[EdwardMichael]

But it will have drivew away protection.. Thisnis basic security system that involved the door locks.. Lock all doors with the key, unlock all doors with the hey. If that doesnt do it, then you might have a problem with the lock switch in the latch, or the wireing from the switch to the General module.

Thank you.

[CALLACI]

Was this ever resolved I have and early gen E36 also and I think I have same issue…. All my door locks not working AND car cranks, but no start. I have 0 power going to any of the door locks. Fuse 7 was burnt I replaced it and still no power to door locks. I believe without the door locks working the EWS1 will not allow the car to start..