Did the window sliders this week end using this method, both doors. Went really well thanks to these instruction. Also did the spinning door locks while I had the panels off.
Sliders costs me $12 dollars plus I needed to steel two springs from ball point pens to repair the locks. Basically under $15 if you count the lithium grease I used.
Dealer wanted $1200 for the door locks plus another $200-$300 for the window slider repair.
$15 and 8 hours of my time saved me $3000.....unreal
Thank You TurboBimmer!
I bookmarked this thread 2 months ago because I was planning to do some work on my doors and thought the addition of this window slider replacement would help my sometimes sluggish windows. I always dread working inside doors for some reason. I got the parts from ESC a week ago. This slider replacement and track cleaning went well, used some special Nyo-Gel grease for plastics and metal on the tracks. The windows operate super slick now.
What went even easier was the replacement of the outer door handle gaskets. Why did I not know this was so damn easy?
I got the replacement seals shortly after buying the car nearly 2-years ago. I assumed I needed to get inside the doors to do it.
Next up...finally install that $200 piece of plastic I got for the console trim plate. Replacing light bulbs for the HVAC controls, AC switch and shift boot.
Z3M Racer '99 M Roadster
Which direction do the pins face? I've got mine apart and can't remember which way they came out.
The way my sliders snapped into place, I doubt the clips are really needed. But side them in from either side and you should be fine.
Z3M Racer '99 M Roadster
Got around to doing this today- thanks to this thread it was really easier than I thought it would be. After cleaning the tracks I went the silicone spray route vs lithium grease. While the door panels were off I removed the midrange speakers and installed my component tweeters in their place (disabled the factory tweets -and used the factory tweeter connections.)
Hardest part of this job was reinstalling the Mfing door panels- a total bitch getting the fixed window section to insert in the channel!
Thanks for the awesome DIY!
Just did my passenger side today. I've had the panels off expecting to do this for a while. Started today and pulled the first "weather stripping off" and the light bulb went off and remember I didn't have to pull the whole glass on this side since I read this thread. I found using a smaller "furniture" (read cheap dorm room tool kit) claw hammer worked excellently for prying the pins from the slider.
Unfortunately I'm replacing my glass when I do these on my driver sider so it's not as helpful.
Also, Ben! This thread somehow was overlooked for the manifesto!
- 1of1 rebuild (build thread) -
- Wanted Car items - FS: PnP aftermarket alarm details -
- Coupe Custom Subwoofer box - FS: Z3 Coupe LED 3rd brake lights -My Website for DIY content and parts: Double Bee Garage
Nice write up.
Thanks for this write-up! Just got my driver's side door taken care of and the passenger side will be soon. Now I won't have to open the door to get the window to go down. Of course, even with a proper pry tool, I still broke one of the door panel clips. I also had to re-install the door card twice because I managed to get the little receiver for the torx screw behind mirror switch out of alignment and couldn't re-install the screw. I found that the clunking sound I was getting was that the 2 10mm bolts that hold window motor in place were a little loose and allowed motor to move when it met resistance.
My Creator C310 el cheapo OBD tool came in handy today because I removed the airbag and chose to not disconnect battery so I could move the window up and down. I of course got airbag light on the dash and was able to reset it in seconds!
Last edited by dklay; 05-08-2015 at 02:57 PM.
Did my passenger door today and came up with 2 helpful hints with this process.
1. To push the pin of actuator arm out of the back of the slider, I used one of the pry wedges in the kit below - just push it up from underneath and the pin will pop without fighting it -- it will also hold actuator arm out of the way while you clean and lube.
2. Use a piece of rope to clean the metal tracks the sliders run in - I sprayed the track with some brake cleaner and just pulled a piece of small diameter rope back and forth to clean all the gunk out. I then repeated with PB Lube.
Squirt some White Lithium grease and put in new sliders!
I picked up the wedge pry tools from PepBoys for about $10 for the set.
Another observation I had for those of you with hardtops on a roadster: I found that my hardtop was installed slightly off center (side to side). The hardtop weatherstripping was (very) tight to the passenger side door window glass, and there is about 1/8" air gap between drivers side window and weatherstrip. I haven't had a chance to reposition it, but it may explain why the passenger window was more problematic than the driver's side.
Last edited by dklay; 05-11-2015 at 07:05 PM.
Necrobumping to thank you for this writeup!!!!
I've looked at a lot of post and videos to get ready to do this replacement, but nobody shows pics or video of doing the clip removal for the small slider. Is it totally by brail or can you get to it as easy as the larger one?
Sorry maybe my posting was not clear. I'm referring to the slider closest to the front. All the videos and pics show access to the rear slider and clip. My question is how difficult is it to get to the front smaller slider to remove the clip and slider. Is it all done by feel or can you find an access hole that lines up for the replacement of the front short slider.
Thanks Turbo. You answered my question, but I still didn't put it right. When I refer to shorter I meant track. I know the sliders themselves are the same size, but from what I've seen the front track is shorter
Hi TurboBimmer. I've only had my Z3 for a year and the sliders need changing, can you re-link the photos please? Cheers
So....where exactly are people getting these for "$12"?
There are 4 guides and I haven't seen any below 100 a piece.Sliders costs me $12 dollars
51328399161 - Front Left
51328399162 - Front Right
51328397634 - Rear Right
51328397633 - Rear Left
Only options I am seeing are for genuine BMW and the prices are getting up there!
EDIT: I am dense, people are just replacing the plastic SLIDER piece. Didn't realize that would cure the problem! Has anyone done this on a coupe before? Looks like the lifting mechanisms are different part numbers and the coupe variant does not appear to have a replaceable slider.
roadster: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...25#51321938884
coupe: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=51_3643
PN: 51321938884
Last edited by Wrench Turner; 03-17-2018 at 02:56 PM.
The coupe is identical to the Roadster. The coupe regulator is a Roadster regulator with the stop screw adjusted slightly differently and a sticker with the coupe part number placed over the stamped Roadster number.
Yes, coupes also wear the sliders. But they have the added feature of ripping the door regulator mounts apart. I have posted a complete description and repair thread somewhere around here. If you can grasp the window and move it up and down 1/2 inch or so, expect the worst when you open the door.
Last edited by rf900rkw; 03-17-2018 at 03:57 PM.
Done!
I attached the 5 first pictures to the first post, but 5 is the limit of the forum, so here are the two last ones here:
screwdriver.jpg
slider.jpg
______________2000 Z3__ __1988 325ix turbo______________
Fantastic, Thank you! There is a youtube video showing the complete removal of the windows -which this avoids, of course this is much better.
“Great wisdom is generous; petty wisdom is contentious.” 无为
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