Window sliders replacement; DONE!

[TurboBimmer]

One thing less on my todo list.
Both windows were very slow, and sometimes were jamming, requiring some help to move. So I bought 4 plastic sliders (2 per side) and replaced them. It is a night and day difference. Windows now move like in a new car.

Anyways, the reason I post is because some DIY instructions call for the removal of the window and the triangle window, which make the repair longer and more dangerous to break the window. Some people say it can be done with the window in place, but I didn't see any pictures or DIY.
I decided to give it a try with the window in place and found that it was not that hard after all. The smaller your hands, the easier it may be...

I will skip the removal/installation of the door panel since it is already covered in this forum.

If you have a side airbag but no reset tool, you should be careful not to connect the battery and turn the ignition to ON, because this will trigger a fault in the cluster. Instead, hang the airbag with a wire to the top of the door.

Get yourself an inspection mirror, you will need it.
First, I made a hook from a coat hanger. This will be used to pull the slider locking clip. Don't make it too long because there is not a lot of space in there.
hook.jpg


With the window almost completely down, you will see the channels in which the sliders move. The sliders are behind the metal channels so they are not visible. You may have to move the window up-down to locate the front or rear slider channel at an accessible location. In this photo, the rear channel is behind the yellow airbag connector.
view.jpg


This is a side shot showing the clip holding the slider to the actuator arm pin.
side.jpg


Get the hook, and pull to remove the retaining clip.
hook2.jpg


Use your inspection mirror, that I'm sure is cleaner than mine, and familiarize yourself how the pin enters the slider.
mirror.jpg



EDIT: jump to post #48 to see the last two pictures, since the forum limits to 5 attached pictures.


Using a flat blade screwdriver, position it in between the plastic slider and the metal arm. Use something to gently tap on the screwdriver so it goes in between both parts. Don't use a hammer, too much force. I use the head of a pair of pliers. Once the screwdriver is inserted in between the parts, rotate it and the arm will pop out of the slider.




Then, use your strong hand and push on the arm just enough so the pin clears the slider and with the other hand and a screwdriver push the slider out.



Then use some Q-Tips with a degreaser and clean all the dried grease in there. I used a combination of Q-Tips and towels. Then lube the channel and the slider with some white grease (I used spray white lithium grease), insert the slider in until it touches the pin, the move the arm out of the way, move the slider, release the arm, push it until you hear it pop, then install the lock clip with a pair of pliers and the inspection mirror.

Repeat for the other slider, and the other door if needed.
Then enjoy having windows moving without binding!

[cfmistry]

Nice write up, I need to do this soon. I've heard of some people replacing the rails (rather than cleaning them) -- did you look into that?

[Vintage42]

That DIY takes the cake. Previously this was the best one:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...4#post16461924

But the coat hanger hook tool, and the great photos make this the best DIY. I was in there last year, had new sliders and read the old DIY, but the sliders looked OK and it appeared too hard to replace them so just greased them. I think I could have replaced them with this new DIY.

[mnguyen84]

yeah i was gonna replace mine. but after some clean and lube, window is sliding up and down smoothly again. thanks for the write up

[Z3SD]

Thanks for the info. I really need to do this. The driver window is having the same issues. Just going to add this to the list of seat bushings, glove box fix and various other things I need to correct in this car.

[Bcar]

wow, thanks for posting this! I have new sliders sitting in my garage waiting to go in, this will same me a lot of time! Thanks!

[328 Power 04]

Pretty much everyone needs to do this by now. I know both my Z3's need it.

[TurboBimmer]

Glad to see it can help other Z3 owners.

@cfmistry ; When you say the rails, do you mean the channels where the sliders move? If yes, no need to replace them. They are easy to clean with a degreaser, and don't wear since it's only plastic moving in them. If you were talking about the vertical ones, I can't say, mine were not that dirty. I didn't clean them, I only sprayed some white grease in the part that was accessible and worked the window up and down 4-5 times to distribute the grease.

[rf900rkw]

I've never understood why people insist on taking the car much farther apart than necessary. The glass does not need to be removed. I don't even pull the hairpin clips. I use a steel upholstery / door panel tool to pop the ball out of each slider.

While you are in there, make sure all the mounts of the regulator assembly are tight and the brackets aren't cracked.

[workhurts]

What's the best source for sliders? OEM or some aftermarket ones that might perform better?

[Matt Day]

What's the best source for sliders? OEM or some aftermarket ones that might perform better?

I don't know for sure, but I can't fathom there are aftermarket parts for something like this on a Z3.
Just not enough cars made and such a small percentage ever replace.

[rf900rkw]

There are. The slider fits many models.

[Eurospec]

51321938884 is the p/n you're looking for. White in color. Uro/ Febi appear to be the the suppliers.

[bplease]

ebay has them 4 for $6.50, amazon for $9.00 I think.

[TurboBimmer]

What's the best source for sliders? OEM or some aftermarket ones that might perform better?

You can get them from the dealer around $4 each piece, or like it has been said, Ebay, Autoparts stores for less.

Since I'm in Canada, the dealer sells them for $11 each! Wow, $44 for 4 small pieces of plastic! So I bought them at my local auto parts store for $5 each.
For those in Canada, the distributor for these parts is Altrom. Search with the BMW part number 51321938884.
http://www.altrom.com/cgi-bin/altapp...6180:N&CD=6180

Edit: just to clarify, Altrom doesn't sell to the public, you will have to ask your autoparts store to order from them. My store had a direct link with their inventory, so it seems like it is a main distributor.

[Z3MRacer]

Thanks for the write-up and P/N. I'll add this to my door handle gasket replacement job that I've been putting off.

[workhurts]

Silly question. I got the door panel off without busting any clips. Now do I just remove that foam material that covers the door? Looks like it's held on by some kind of double sided sticky tape.

image-3793092078.jpg

[workhurts]

More to the point, if I manage to get it off without damaging (by gently prying) what do you use to get it back on?

[bplease]

It should just re-stick without needing to add anything. Honestly I'm doing this tomorrow (for the first time on the Z) but I've done other doors that use the same stuff for the vapor barrier.

[BimmerBreaker]

You'll need to unscrew the airbag (don't unplug it, just drape it over the door or something) then peel the vapor barrier off. Its attached with some weird butyl stuff. When you take it off you should be able to press it back on with the butyl thats still there, worst case scenario some butyl or black silicone will seal it back up (I've never had to re-apply sealant though, but it also doesn't rain much where I live).

[workhurts]

I already had an airbag light so went ahead and disconnected it. I think I scuffed every knuckle but at least one door is done. Onto the next ...

My passenger door didn't look too bad, but wanted to try that door first prior to tackling the really bad drivers.

I had some liquid wrench lithium grease. So I used that. Did the plastic sliders and cleaned whatever I could get my hands on.

The grease that was there already seemed thicker then what I put back on, so if there's anything significantly better let me know.

A pair of thin locking pliers helped considerably.

[TurboBimmer]

For the removal and installation of the foam vapor barrier, a hair dryer works very well. It softens the glue for easy removal and helps to stick back the foam when reinstalling.

[workhurts]

Another tip. You are going to have to remove the door gasket and install on the panel to get everything back on. It's best to mark the gasket relative to the panel prior to disassembly as it will just save a bit of time when reinstalling.

Thanks to the OP and everyone else. Wrapped this up completely last night and windows are working great.

Mind you, my car now smells like degreaser, glue and grease but at least the window will roll down to keep from suffocating.

One more thing. I couldn't get the smaller slider to budge off the arm with just muscle. I ended up having to use a screwdriver the lever it out far enough. The longer slider was easier (once that pin was popped). I also had to used a larger locking plier to snap the pin back in (being careful not to actually bend anything).

Next project .... shims. Wish me luck.

[spacecowboy]

I ordered & received the sliders & a bunch of clips for the door panels. I have a spring puller that can be used to remove the clips from the sliders, just have to find it. Might as well change out the tweeters too when the door panels are off.

[cfmistry]

I also recently did this with the instructions provided here. Really a miserable job but overall pretty quick and good results. My windows are working great. My driver's side is still making a clunking noise near full up, but all of my spot welds were intact and everything works fine.