Bet you can't solve this EWS/Key issue! Please HELP!

[geargrinder]

@fx323i... Don't forget. Jayson has irritatingly threadjacked in this zombie thread and refused to start his one new one so the facts might be mixed up. Is or is not the starter turning over when HE tries to start his car? (OP in the zombie thread had no starter...) Unclear to me.

@jayson you probably missed this but.. .why don't you start your own thread.

Other than that good stuff from fx323i... if indeed starter won't go and you effed around with it a lot then its probably screwed.

[JimLev]

Jayson, I'd start your own post like gg suggested, just cut and paste for info into a new post. You can delete (or I can) you info here.
This thread is starting to get confusing with different problems being answered.

[Fx323i]

In his last post he stated that he got power to EWS when jumping it, also the fault code from the EWS supports my theory about the lost key sync. If there is going to be a new topic, just post a link here so that I could continue in my help if required.

[Jayson Wonder]

@fx323i... Don't forget. Jayson has irritatingly threadjacked in this zombie thread and refused to start his one new one so the facts might be mixed up. Is or is not the starter turning over when HE tries to start his car? (OP in the zombie thread had no starter...) Unclear to me.

@jayson you probably missed this but.. .why don't you start your own thread.

Other than that good stuff from fx323i... if indeed starter won't go and you effed around with it a lot then its probably screwed.

Did not mean to thread jack. I have no issue making a new thread. Initially it seemed that problems were the same as OP. No one is hurt, its only info and text so stay calm. Sorry it I offended anyone... Just trying to learn and get my problem resolved. I'll post a link back once I create a new one.

Thanks,

- - - Updated - - -

I created a new thread about this if anyone wishes to follow and contribute still.

http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...t-EWS-problems

Thanks,

[aldoygloria]

Hello Martin,
I know this is an old thread; however, I'm experience something similar on my 2006 x3... crank, no start... check spark and is none... check all the fuses, relays, replace, cam sensor (exhaust), crank sensor... now a BMW shop said that it might be the EWS because their computer gets stuck as is diagnosing in the EWS... any suggestions? I order a new key from the dealer, but this problem happen before, but I thought it was the key...

[Fx323i]

Already replied to you in PM. If crank-no start, it is not the key (just if the wiring was modified, then it would crank without a proper key recognized). This seems to be a problem of EWS-DME sync. Check fault codes in DME, if EWS is present, then check the connector on the EWS and DME. If both are OK, you can try to put ANY other EWS3 in the car (it won't crank/start) and see if the diagnostic system will work then or not. If it will, then order a new EWS from the dealer's. Note that a new EWS will need to be coded and synchronized with DME in order to start.

[geargrinder]

Hello Martin,
I know this is an old thread; however, I'm experience something similar on my 2006 x3... crank, no start... check spark and is none... check all the fuses, relays, replace, cam sensor (exhaust), crank sensor... now a BMW shop said that it might be the EWS because their computer gets stuck as is diagnosing in the EWS... any suggestions? I order a new key from the dealer, but this problem happen before, but I thought it was the key...

+1 to FX as always on the EWS stuff ^^^

Your Indy prob doesn't understand EWS. Its shocking how many 'good with the wrench part' Indy's are clueless about programming including EWS systems. If they can't talk to the unit at all then either they have bad software/cable (unlikely) or, the EWS connection is bad, or the module is bad...

[lestat]

I wanted to start a new thread but decided to post here, since my issue is almost identical to the OP's, and I'm really hoping Martin can chime in to clarify.

So, about a month ago, my remote started playing up. It's a diamond key on a 2003 E39 fitted with EWS3. I knew it was the battery, the remote range would become weaker by the day, but wasn't too in a hurry to sort it out, knowing it's a cheap any easy fix. Then all of a sudden, the key would not crank anymore. No crank, no ignition, nothing! I thought it was the starter at first, but eventually tried the other 2 valet keys and both worked fine.

So I finally replaced the battery and initialised the key to lock/unlock the doors, but still wouldn't crank. I tried to do a DME/EWS alignment with INPA and kept giving me an error, it just wouldn't go through with the process. Then I changed over to one of the valet keys and not only it would start the car, it would also sync ok without errors, so at this point I knew it's between the key and EWS, and not an alignment problem.

Then I went ahead and tested the key with INPA and it said something to this effect: key is NOT working because of wrong changing code, wrong password and some other wrong thing. There is also another test in there which checks if the key transponder is alive. I haven't glued up the key yet and this makes it possible to remove the circuit board with the key still in the ignition, so in doing this test - and I can see this parameter turning ON and OFF according to me moving the board closer or further from the ignition switch. So it certainly transmitting something, but the data is out of sync (or garbled, hopefully NOT!).

Is my assessment correct?

If yes, I think your quote bellow applies to my case. So all I have to do is to order this AK90 programming kit, and I can fix the old key?

If the key data is already corrupted, you need to read the data out of EWS, mark all not working keys as "not used" and write data back to EWS. It will cause the rolling code go to "FF" and when the key is in ignition for the first time, the EWS reads the rolling code and writes it in its own memory.

[Fx323i]

Hi,
basically it is not possible to tell you more based on the provided information. Just some clues:

1. The remote and transponder on the diamond key have different circuits, although they are both on the same board. Battery for remote has definitely nothing to do with the no-crank issue.

2. If only resetting the data will help is not possible to say now. You would need to investigate more, eg. if the fixed code is shown stable and does not change, if the key number is correct (in range 1-10 or 0-9 based on INPA version and not any nonsense like 255 etc.)

Also, cutting the key and touching anything in it is a huge risk, many people have destroyed their keys by the battery changing procedure. As the board is out now, I think you could also inspect if there are no parts missing, which is very usual, and if the coil in the key is OK.

[lestat]

Hi,
basically it is not possible to tell you more based on the provided information. Just some clues:

1. The remote and transponder on the diamond key have different circuits, although they are both on the same board. Battery for remote has definitely nothing to do with the no-crank issue.

2. If only resetting the data will help is not possible to say now. You would need to investigate more, eg. if the fixed code is shown stable and does not change, if the key number is correct (in range 1-10 or 0-9 based on INPA version and not any nonsense like 255 etc.)

Also, cutting the key and touching anything in it is a huge risk, many people have destroyed their keys by the battery changing procedure. As the board is out now, I think you could also inspect if there are no parts missing, which is very usual, and if the coil in the key is OK.

Thanks Martin.

I'm pretty sure there is no physical damage it the key. I opened it very carefully, plus the issues started even before I opened it. But still, I went to INPA again today and it doesn't look good.

So, under INPA > Status > Actual key, this is what I get:

Key number: varies randomly - 0, 64, 04, 045, 645, 644 etc.
Key invalid because of:
- changing code
- identification
- password
Key identification: that long code changes every 2 seconds or so
Changing code: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 (does not change)

What do you think is happening?

[lestat]

Update:

If I push the board slightly more inside the ignition ring (as per pict), the code stabilises: it shows as key #1, changing code and password errors are gone, and the car starts. So we know the code is good, it's looks more like a transmission problem.

ph1.jpg

Looking at the board, there seems to be a missing component (pict below). So I did damage the board apparently. Anyway, it looks like a decoupling capacitor. Normally it should be good without it but in this particular case it might actually make a difference. I'll try to replace it and see how it goes.

ph2.jpg

[Fx323i]

To me now it seems like a combination of HW and code problem. It is very likely that there was a cold solder on the SMD part which was lost from the board. It is possible that the damage did not come with opening the key but with cold solder from the factory.

Unfortunately I do not have a description of the parts on the board, I have an expert on these very close so I never bothered digging too deep in these keys as making a new one was time-wise the easiest. Also, I am from Europe where the frequency of remote is different, which also means different parts in the key as the circuit needs to oscillate on that frequency.

[lestat]

Thanks Martin. I'll order a donor second-hand key from eBay and replace that capacitor from the donor board. If that doesn't fix it, I'll transplant the 10030A Elmos chip from my key to the new board. I'll report back one way or the other.

[bdiefAZ]

Is it possible to bypass EWS? I did it on the 98 528 (e39) It involves programming out EWS and bypassing the module with a jumper wire.

[computiNATEor]

Is it possible to bypass EWS? I did it on the 98 528 (e39) It involves programming out EWS and bypassing the module with a jumper wire.

Yes, you can. You need some sort of DME tune that bypasses the EWS, and then the jumper wire.

[lestat]

Got it working! I first replaced the missing part with an off the shelf 2 pF capacitor (found some info to suggest this is the actually value of that component). Didn't do anything. Then I ordered a used key fob from eBay, £6 posted. I transplanted the original Elmos chip to the new key and working perfectly now. Had to reprogram for remote locking, but that only takes minutes.

So it was a hardware fault on the data transmission side of the circuit. Thanks a lot Martin, without your advise I would have been chasing a dead end.

[computiNATEor]

Yay!

[Maxframe]

Hi Martin,

I thought you might find this document useful. It's BMW EWS Technical Training information for all the EWS units.

BMW_EWS - How it works.pdf

[Fx323i]

I do have this documents for years but it does not really say what is going on above. Anyway, if anyone in the future had this issue, there also is a quite likely chance that ELMOS 10029A in the EWS itself overheats and creates the same issue. This is why it is sometimes difficult to chase the problem. It can be both on key/EWS side and it is nearly impossible to diagnose which one it is. This is why I always keep a known good working EWS in my shelf and in case of trouble, I first clone the original EWS from the car to my known good EWS and if it does not help, I create a new key.

I also have once seen an issue like this on a Mini where the owner (young lady) sticked a Swarowski ring onto the ring antenna and this caused a no-start issue.

[Maxframe]

Is the ELMOS 10029A used on EWS2 units or is that an EWS3 application? Can an EWS2 unit be cloned onto a used EWS2 unit with the same HW and SW revisions?

[Fx323i]

Nope, only used on the EWS3 box (even if EWS2 system is there on the software side - valid for example for TDS engines or M52 single Vanos for E39, E38 since 3/1997). The EWS2 uses a different way to translate the analog data from the key coil to digital form, and that is the T/R module between the EWS2 and the reading coil.

EWS2 can be cloned, the only issues are, that 1D47J and 2D47J have reading protection and in *some* cases these get deleted when you attempt to read them. It is rare but sometimes happens. Then you have nothing to clone.

[Maxframe]

Nope, only used on the EWS3 box (even if EWS2 system is there on the software side - valid for example for TDS engines or M52 single Vanos for E39, E38 since 3/1997). The EWS2 uses a different way to translate the analog data from the key coil to digital form, and that is the T/R module between the EWS2 and the reading coil.

EWS2 can be cloned, the only issues are, that 1D47J and 2D47J have reading protection and in *some* cases these get deleted when you attempt to read them. It is rare but sometimes happens. Then you have nothing to clone.

Got it. Fortunately I have been able to read and write my 2D47J chip multiple times over all the work I've done. BTW, I ordered some VVDI X15 chips and they are somewhere in transit. I will let you know how the coding worked when I get them. I'm wondering if I should start looking for a spare EWS2 HW 02 SW 02 unit. Thanks again for all your help.

[Maxframe]

As an update to my EWS2 no crank on a programmed key, but ok on the one key I got with the car: The EWS2 system uses a separate transmitter/receiver on the column back of the ignition lock barrel. Having gone through everything I could and all my scanners telling me "wrong password" was the fault, I got a used transmitter/receiver part (61-35-8-379-502). It is HW04 and mine was HW02, but the same part number. I installed it, then tried the key I'd previously made. I heard the relay click and the car cranked and started. FINALLY!!


Evidently, that has been the root fault all along. Just wanted to thank all of you for your postings, insights and advice.