Hey guys, have an issue that I REALLY need some input on from someone who is knowledgeable. First off this is on an 01 e53 (X5), but I'm posting here b/c of a lack of responses on prior attempts in the X5 forums, and this is where I think more enthusiasts will be to respond (mods please don't move ).
The main issue: Original key won't start car after being opened and battery replaced (diamond key), also of note the alarm was triggered (locksmith had to open from wife breaking door lock (before keyless battery replaced, so we were only manual lock/unlocking)). NOW bought NEW key from BMW and it worked for about 5 starts over 2 days now it stopped working (key turns in lock but will not start OR turn over car). Of note here is that I believe it stopped working the first time I locked the car/enabled alarm (used keyless).
NOW I have INPA and I did a scan and EACH key is showing "invalid password" in the error logs. I ALSO have AK90+ and I took out the EWS (EWS3) and used it to reprogram BOTH keys, and after 3 attempts it the keys STILL DO NOT start the car.....
SO, my thoughts are: this is an EWS/Key sync issue and I can either buy a new key from BMW (but it will likely stop working again like the first replacement I bought), OR I can buy a complete e53 EWS/DME/Lock cylinder kit off ebay (see the youtube vid where an x5 fires right up when these are swapped, no programming reqd). I'm just not sure where to go on this one since I don't know if EWS is bad, Key ring antenna is bad (not likely since replacement key fired car up first try and worked each time until the time I locked the car and then would not work again), or could this be an alarm/immobilizer issue?
I'm completely stumped, even with extensive searching, because even WITH AK90, I still can't get the keys I have to work. ANY input would be GREATLY appreciated! Again, the only errors on INPA is "key number 1 not valid because of wrong password" (also "key number 4..." - the new one). Please Please Please help!!
resync DME to EWS using INPA, remove key from ignition, lock the car using the key lock button, leave it a couple of seconds (one minute is better) reopen the car using the key fob and start the car. Hopefully it helps
Diehard E39 driver.
I'd rather die or take a walk before driving an E60 or any BMW made after Y2K.
"Your momma's so ugly she makes Bangle cars look nice"
Is there an easier way to resync by using a program other than INPA?, I'm not sure if I'm getting it to sync up correctly (ie would EDIABAS, etc be better?); also would that resolve the issue if the error is an issue with the key being recognized ("invalid password") by EWS? Seems like when I do a key test in INPA it says the key is oK and not locked out, it just doesn't show the oval after "password" to be blacked out, so it looks like a rolling code issue (sometimes for a few seconds it fills in but quickly goes away as the code rolls to the next one..). I will def try resync again thout
The rolling code issue is caused because you didn't remove the key and locked/unlocked the car. I had this happening to me. It would either crank and no start and then flat out not crank after last resync attempt. Then I resync'd over and got out of the car, locked, unlocked and it fired right up.
I would reinitialize all keys, resync DME-EWS, lock/unlock and give it a try.
Diehard E39 driver.
I'd rather die or take a walk before driving an E60 or any BMW made after Y2K.
"Your momma's so ugly she makes Bangle cars look nice"
Wow, thanks Jicaino! You're the first one to reply that has had the issue! SO to recap, do I just need to 1. resync DME/EWS, 2. reinitialize all keys (just by doing the steps by pressing the key FOB buttons to program lock/unlock, right? (ie, not using AK90, etc)), and then get out and lock/unlock (do I do this with the key FOB or manually with the key lock?). Thanks SO much for your help!!
1.reinitialize your fobs using the standard procedure which involves getting in the car, switching on ignition #1 then off within 5 seconds yada yada... then 2.resync DME/EWS using INPA 3. lock the car using the fob OR the key in the door or in the trunk (arm the alarm if the alarm's coded on! no one must be in the car, you neither, don't stay in the driver's seat or keep a door open, if you're afraid of being locked out, EG you swapped everything but door lock cyl and don't know if your fob's gonna work, then leave the window rolled down, completely rolled down, you will need to stick one key with a good transponder and switch ignition on to position 1 for the EWS to release the blocking and let you manually unlock and open the doors.)
Diehard E39 driver.
I'd rather die or take a walk before driving an E60 or any BMW made after Y2K.
"Your momma's so ugly she makes Bangle cars look nice"
Definitely gonna try this, thanks!
+1 to all the thing jicaino said. if you get no-starter it's def "stage 1" of the EWS failing, need to ensure everything is re-sync'd up.
2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)
Former:
1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)
You might be able to buy just a used EWS module and flash your .bin file to it, that way you avoid swapping DME etc. I don't know if it would work or not. DUDMD can reset your DME to "New" so it can pair up with a different EWS. That might make your life easier. I don't know what he charges though.
At first you need to check if the EWS does read the key all the time. The problem can be either the ring antenna coil, which reads the data from the key, and the EWS itself because beginning with version 3.2 it has the transmitter/receiver module inside and not separate like EWS2 had. So, at first you need to check if the key is read all the time. If not, I'd go with a new ring antenna since it is quite cheap. If it's not the ring antenna, you can use the method described one post above - get another EWS from junkyard, just note - HW and SW numbers on the box must match and the MCU type should match, too (in your case I guess it's 0D46J).
If the key data is already corrupted, you need to read the data out of EWS, mark all not working keys as "not used" and write data back to EWS. It will cause the rolling code go to "FF" and when the key is in ignition for the first time, the EWS reads the rolling code and writes it in its own memory.
Last but not least, you can purchase a new EWS ecu, but you would get an EWS4 with MCU mask 2L86D, which requires soldering with AK90 in future if you had the same issue again.
Hope it helps, even though the thread is quite old.
Martin Voigts
BMW cars indy and locksmith
1997 E36 318iS Sierrarot
2012 Ford Mondeo
This thread is interesting. I am having some no start issues related to EWS / DME and key problems. I am wondering if there is a way I can re sync although I do not own any software or coding cables and tools? At least if I can figure out if my key is being read or will you just recommend buying the tool and software or all the parts (EWS, DMW, Key, locks..)
There are so many tools out there to buy, what do recommend as the essential tools to fix & diagnose this? I am looking at this:
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/BMW-USB-OBD-D...3D281128248013
What do you think? Can I do keys as well?
In short yes that is one type of cable/setup you could get. Re: "do keys" dont be mislead that any of these tools will let you make new keys for the car - that's a whole different thing - but this would let you see if the keys are recognized and disable or enable each key.
But. Instead of polluting this year-old thread that got oddly zombie posted 7 months ago, why dont you follow the link and info I posted in YOUR thread. There is an entire diagnostic forum loaded with threads and questions and answers regarding your question.
2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)
Former:
1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)
For cars equipped with EWSx system there is no way of fixing the problem via OBD or the pacman port. You can only diagnose it, not repair via diagnostic port.
Martin Voigts
BMW cars indy and locksmith
1997 E36 318iS Sierrarot
2012 Ford Mondeo
2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)
Former:
1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)
When stated that the starter does not turn over without hotwiring, it is not just the ews-dme isn floating code.
2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)
Former:
1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)
I have been reading what you guys have been discussing. What do you guys think? I must assume it is between the key and EWS? The only other input to the module is the clutch pedal and speed sensor so if I can rule these out perhaps identify key as problem...
I did some testing again this afternoon with the key in ignition and key ring wires to EWS. Not really sure what I am looking for to indicate success but I do see that I have continuity in both wires so they are fine. I also have a 2.5v signal present at each of these wires but it does not seem to change with key in or out so I am really unsure what to do.
Regardless I will order the cable but still like to narrow this down before buying all the stuff for EWS & DME & key swap as if I understand you correctly I cannot fix a bad key or reprogram from ODBII port anyway.
Well, at first you need to identify where the problem lies. Eg. if you have any other (spare) key, you can try that one to start the car (every single key from the cas has different codes). Any other things need to be diagnosed or measured. Unless you have an oscilloscope, you can not measure quite anything else than the continuity on the coil and since the EWS3 (from the pic in your other thread) does have the Transmitter/receiver part inside of the EWS unit, you would not be able to tell if the data is OK anyway. A good way is a diagnostic system, for diagnosing EWS issues I highly recommend the BMW Scanner 1.4 because it is very simple in EWS live data and very very readable. INPA in opposite gives you maybe more information, but it is very difficult to identify what the information mean if you have no further experience.
Martin Voigts
BMW cars indy and locksmith
1997 E36 318iS Sierrarot
2012 Ford Mondeo
Sounds great. So I think I will order a cable and software asap as I cannot see how else to proceed at this time.
Only 1 key.
Last edited by Jayson Wonder; 08-24-2015 at 05:20 PM.
1998 E39-528i, 2005 E60-545i
I finally bought my ODBII ca ble & 20pin adapter. I have INPA installed on my laptop and seems to be working. I am learning how to navigate and use the software.
I need help with confirming EWS functionality between Key/EWS and EWS/DME to identify my no start/spark/fuel issue.
INPA shows the following errors:
ISN number: ERROR_EWS_REJECTED
password: ERROR_EWS_REJECTED
Also had a this error:
98 Key 6 invalid changing code error.
I also saw an error relating to P,N, clutch somewhere but I cannot find it so that might be a source of concern as well.
Any ideas are appreciated.
1998 E39-528i, 2005 E60-545i
The ISN is only visible with EWS2 units or EWS3/3+/4.3 in EWS2 mode. Not your situation (in 1999 only some 525tds E39s had the EWS2 mode). The ISN in EWS3 and newer is floating and since the units are married together from the factory and you did not replace neither one of them, you do not need to worry about this. It is not an error or fault, it is how it is designed.
I would give a go the error 98 - invalid changing code.
This one definitely can cause the car not to turn over. You just need to see if the key is read properly. If yes, you can choose if to order new EWS or new key, with your equipment (with an installation of GT1 DIS) you can repair it yourself. Or you could purchase for example the AK90 EWS reader and fix the data in the EWS.
If the car does not read the key data properly, there are more things to do.
The best would be if you went to every screen of INPA related to EWS when connected to the car and key in the ignition, made screenshots, posted them here and then we can advise more.
Also, what happened before the car stopped starting? Any unusual situation, eg. unplugging the battery with the key in ignition, or keeping the key in ignition until the battery went flat? Or?
I hope my English is understandable to you, I am not a native speaker.
Last edited by Fx323i; 09-10-2015 at 08:06 AM.
Martin Voigts
BMW cars indy and locksmith
1997 E36 318iS Sierrarot
2012 Ford Mondeo
Well I had been trying to install a push to start system as a workaround for a broken ignition cylinder / steering wheel lock. Perhaps this was a factor. I also ran the battery low on many occasions during my 3 months of struggle with this problem / project. I also replaced the EWS key ring antenna as I thought it might have been faulty.
I know it must be EWS as I tried jumping the EWS and I got power going to started but no fuel and now spark. I also jumped the fuel pump and confirmed it works.
So are you saying I need a new key or EWS?
I will capture the error codes and post here after work.
1998 E39-528i, 2005 E60-545i
Aha, I see. This means that very probably you lost a synchronization between the key and EWS. There are three ways to resolve:
1. Order a new key
If you have the key with the rubber buttons - fitted till 8/1999 - you can order a cheap ordinary key, pull the transponder out of it and replace the transponder in your remote key with the new one. BUT if your key is #6, you probably only have 3-4 keys available for ordering. Maybe less, depending on numbering of the keys in your version of EWS (0-9 or 1-10) and on if there were other keys after #6 which is not working now.
2. Order a new EWS
You can also order a new EWS unit, BUT you would get EWS4.3 which is kind of PITA in case you will have the same trouble again. You also would have to code it properly to your car, otherwise it would just turn over, but no spark and no fuel.
3. Order the AK90 EWS reader/programmer and repair the data
With this tool you can resynchronize (not a click-click solution, but I can help) the existing key and also make additional transponders for your EWS even in case when eg. all key positions were used. In that case you would need a new EWS and set of keys ordered. This tool is quite cheap on Aliexpress now and with the 0D46J MCUs in the EWS it is quite safe to read and write.
Regarding the screenshots, do not only include the error codes, but also upload the live data of the EWS (solid code, random code, key in ignition number etc.).
In my opinion, you played too much with the key in the ignition (or around the reading coil). The EWS firstly changes the random code in itself, then it writes it to the key with no confirmation if the data was written properly. This means, if you pull the transponder too far from the coil, the battery goes flat or any other similar situation, you interrupt the data transmission. The data transmission is done by electromagnetic field. If the battery is low, the field does not go far enough to get in touch with the coil inside of the transponder. If you pull the transponder too far from the coil, the same can happen if done during the data writing.
The EWS itself does not have a mechanism to confirm if the data is written properly. It only has an algorithm which counts the next codes over and over. There however is a mechanism which can repair the data if the algorithm is not too far in its cycle. It seems like you exceeded the count of the repair cycles.
Martin Voigts
BMW cars indy and locksmith
1997 E36 318iS Sierrarot
2012 Ford Mondeo
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