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Thread: Mike's "Vanilla Gorilla" M3 V2.0 Build

  1. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by iRodD View Post
    For starters, put the wastegate dump on the other side of the downpipe.
    That's what is being done. No idea why it was tried to snake that way other than shock tower clearance, but that's what will be done. Needs to be cut and rewelded at a different angle to go on the other side but it should work.

    Mike
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  2. #77
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    Cut ring with no copper spacer?? Is this common? At this point is it just pressure on the cast iron block and cut into the head? Excuse my ignorance.
    "There are bold drivers and there are old drivers, but there are no bold, old drivers."

  3. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by cdmbmw View Post
    Cut ring with no copper spacer?? Is this common? At this point is it just pressure on the cast iron block and cut into the head? Excuse my ignorance.
    Copper Spencer is used to lower compression . that is all.
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  4. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by cdmbmw View Post
    Is this common? At this point is it just pressure on the cast iron block and cut into the head? Excuse my ignorance.
    That is how the cut-ring works, yes.

    If you have to remove the head it has to be cleaned up. That is the downside to a cut-ring setup.

  5. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by NOTORIOUS VR View Post
    That is how the cut-ring works, yes.

    If you have to remove the head it has to be cleaned up. That is the downside to a cut-ring setup.
    That and the risk of detonation causing much more harm than simply blowing out the head gasket, but anyone with o-rings is looking at the same problem. On the other hand, no one should be detonating.. lol

  6. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by Butters Stoch View Post
    Copper Spencer is used to lower compression . that is all.
    Quote Originally Posted by NOTORIOUS VR View Post
    That is how the cut-ring works, yes.

    If you have to remove the head it has to be cleaned up. That is the downside to a cut-ring setup.
    Ok. I guess I thought the copper spacer helped the seal with the ring cutting into both the copper spacer and the aluminum head.

    A head usually needs to be resurfaced when removed, so I don't see that as much of a downside.
    "There are bold drivers and there are old drivers, but there are no bold, old drivers."

  7. #82
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    Dumb question, but what does AR have to say about it not fitting?

    "Believe nothing you hear, half of what you read"


  8. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fender13Bender View Post
    Dumb question, but what does AR have to say about it not fitting?
    I was wondering this as well

  9. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fender13Bender View Post
    Dumb question, but what does AR have to say about it not fitting?
    It was a miscommunication on the previous owner's part (AR's previous owner) about me not running factory coil packs, and not communicating to the fabricator that I run an ignition heat shield. Without the coil packs, or the heat shield, or any exhaust wrap it will clear just barely. I'd rather just move the WG pipe at this point away from the valve cover and ignition so I can run the shield I've had good luck with, and fully wrap everything since I intend to get it really really hot.

    The front gate fits great though



    Also have an OBD1 ATI damper on the way thanks to Dan @ Pure Performance

    Mike
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  10. #85
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    What's your planned rev limit for this motor? Debating if I should still pick one up, but because I'm thinking about it already it's inevitable lol.

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    Why don't you guys balance your motors when purchasing the ATI damper?

  12. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by iRodD View Post
    Why don't you guys balance your motors when purchasing the ATI damper?
    What do you mean? The damper is balanced seperately from the crank and flywheel. Each piece is balanced individually, which works fine on the I6 motors. Some engines need the rotating assembly all together and be balanced as a single unit.

    Or you might mean engine balancing/blueprinting? When you are getting a performance engine built, that is almost always done. Aftermarket components like he is running will have a close weight tolerance anyway, much better than the OEM factory.
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  13. #88
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    Yes Nick balance and blue printing from clutch and everything in between to damper.

  14. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by iRodD View Post
    Yes Nick balance and blue printing from clutch and everything in between to damper.
    Everything was balanced individually, and as an assembly IIRC. It is too late now to pull it all back apart to do with the ATI. I'll just have to cross my fingers on that one. I second what Nick said though about each part being individually balanced at least. I will ensure it is individually balanced when I get it. Nothing I can do about the whole assembly at this point.

    Mike
    Last edited by MikeE36; 04-01-2015 at 11:38 PM.
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  15. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by e30kid89 View Post
    What's your planned rev limit for this motor?
    Also curious

  16. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by e30kid89 View Post
    What's your planned rev limit for this motor? Debating if I should still pick one up, but because I'm thinking about it already it's inevitable lol.
    Quote Originally Posted by m3mods View Post
    Also curious
    I'm not sure yet. I want to be enough above 7400rpm that it isn't an issue, or not raise it. From other's experience, it sounds like 7800rpm is reasonable. I think 7600-7700 is a good starting point.

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  17. #92
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    Diff is rebuilt and back in the subframe, along with the upper control arms. Replacing the upper, outer ball joints then the rear end can all go back in the car



    Front diff bolt break? Never.









    Mike

    - - - Updated - - -

    Does anyone on the forum have experience water cooling the Tial wastegates?

    I am contemplating how I am going to plumb everything. So far thoughts are cylinder head water feed -> Y block -> 1 side feeds turbo, other side feeds WG1->WG2-> re-merge lines with another Y block post WGs and turbo and return to coolant block drain. I'm thinking this will allow me to get colder water to the wastegates than if I just ran everything in series, but the extra complication and Y-block fittings are expensive... I wonder if it's worth it?

    Has anyone ever measured water outlet temp from the turbo and seen a noticeable difference vs inlet, or does it not spend enough time in the turbo to heat the water all that much?

    Decisions, decisions!

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  18. #93
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    I'd break them up, but the flowrate is not much, especially through the WGs, so I'd just run tee's on both sides. I'd probably do a -8 AN feed if you're going to use a -6 AN waterline and a -4 AN to the WGs, just to encourage flow through everything, but a -6 AN feed is probably fine. You can actually use -4 AN on the waterlines of the turbo if it helps, it's close to the factory size on watercooled turbos.

    Generally inlet to outlet temps on the turbo aren't hugely different that I've been able to tell (IR gun) during normal running, but at idle they do diverge quite a bit due to the low flow. On shutoff it boils of course.

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  20. #95
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    Quote Originally Posted by Def View Post
    I'd break them up, but the flowrate is not much, especially through the WGs, so I'd just run tee's on both sides. I'd probably do a -8 AN feed if you're going to use a -6 AN waterline and a -4 AN to the WGs, just to encourage flow through everything, but a -6 AN feed is probably fine. You can actually use -4 AN on the waterlines of the turbo if it helps, it's close to the factory size on watercooled turbos.

    Generally inlet to outlet temps on the turbo aren't hugely different that I've been able to tell (IR gun) during normal running, but at idle they do diverge quite a bit due to the low flow. On shutoff it boils of course.
    I wasn't really sure how much water I needed to move through the gates or if the sizing would be an issue. Previously I was running -4 AN lines on my GT35R as that's what the water fittings are for (M14x1.5 to -4AN). I'm thinking the WGs will add very little flow demand and that a -4AN feed for the whole thing would be okay. I was actually pretty surprised when doing my SR20 setup that they commonly use -6AN water lines. I thought that was pretty excessive!

    Mike
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  21. #96
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    Yea, the -6 AN stuff is crazy for just a turbo CHRA, but if you're feeding both, I'd probably go -6 AN on the inlet and very exit sides of the tees, -4 AN in between on everything. The WGs have 2 1/16" ID passages off each port, so -4 AN (~0.17" ID) is fine to feed that, but I'd go with a -6 AN for the whole shebang personally.

  22. #97
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    FWIW an -8AN line fits perfectly onto the feed port on the head and drain port on the block. Obviously if you're going to weld a male fitting to one or both of those locations then it is of no consequence.

  23. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by m3mods View Post
    FWIW an -8AN line fits perfectly onto the feed port on the head and drain port on the block. Obviously if you're going to weld a male fitting to one or both of those locations then it is of no consequence.
    The threads in the head and block I am using are M14x1.5, and a GT35R -4AN water fitting has been what I have been using for both locations currently. I'll probably go with -6AN feed and drain at the ends like Jacob is suggesting. Just need to find (2) M14x1.5 to -6AN, but that shouldn't be any problem.

    Mike
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  24. #99
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    Is the tb feed on the head a m14x1.5?
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  25. #100
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    Quote Originally Posted by vollosso View Post
    Is the tb feed on the head a m14x1.5?
    The TB feed is M12x1.5. The M14x1.5 port is usually plugged on OBD2 cars, or used as a temp sensor on OBD1 setups. I don't have a stock cluster at all, so I have the middle M14x1.5 port as coolant feed to the turbo/WGs, one of the M12 ports is OBD2 coolant temp sensor, and the other M12 is coolant temp to the AIM MXL.

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