1996 332IS
Built 3.2
CES/Steed TS Precision 6466, spraying a "$π!℅" load of meth.
Technique Tuning 80# tune.
1/4 mile 10.84 @ 136.72
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It was a miscommunication on the previous owner's part (AR's previous owner) about me not running factory coil packs, and not communicating to the fabricator that I run an ignition heat shield. Without the coil packs, or the heat shield, or any exhaust wrap it will clear just barely. I'd rather just move the WG pipe at this point away from the valve cover and ignition so I can run the shield I've had good luck with, and fully wrap everything since I intend to get it really really hot.
The front gate fits great though
Also have an OBD1 ATI damper on the way thanks to Dan @ Pure Performance
Mike
IG: @mikevanshellenbeck
What's your planned rev limit for this motor? Debating if I should still pick one up, but because I'm thinking about it already it's inevitable lol.
Why don't you guys balance your motors when purchasing the ATI damper?
What do you mean? The damper is balanced seperately from the crank and flywheel. Each piece is balanced individually, which works fine on the I6 motors. Some engines need the rotating assembly all together and be balanced as a single unit.
Or you might mean engine balancing/blueprinting? When you are getting a performance engine built, that is almost always done. Aftermarket components like he is running will have a close weight tolerance anyway, much better than the OEM factory.
Yes Nick balance and blue printing from clutch and everything in between to damper.
Everything was balanced individually, and as an assembly IIRC. It is too late now to pull it all back apart to do with the ATI. I'll just have to cross my fingers on that one. I second what Nick said though about each part being individually balanced at least. I will ensure it is individually balanced when I get it. Nothing I can do about the whole assembly at this point.
Mike
Last edited by MikeE36; 04-01-2015 at 11:38 PM.
IG: @mikevanshellenbeck
IG: @mikevanshellenbeck
Diff is rebuilt and back in the subframe, along with the upper control arms. Replacing the upper, outer ball joints then the rear end can all go back in the car
Front diff bolt break? Never.
Mike
- - - Updated - - -
Does anyone on the forum have experience water cooling the Tial wastegates?
I am contemplating how I am going to plumb everything. So far thoughts are cylinder head water feed -> Y block -> 1 side feeds turbo, other side feeds WG1->WG2-> re-merge lines with another Y block post WGs and turbo and return to coolant block drain. I'm thinking this will allow me to get colder water to the wastegates than if I just ran everything in series, but the extra complication and Y-block fittings are expensive... I wonder if it's worth it?
Has anyone ever measured water outlet temp from the turbo and seen a noticeable difference vs inlet, or does it not spend enough time in the turbo to heat the water all that much?
Decisions, decisions!
Mike
IG: @mikevanshellenbeck
I'd break them up, but the flowrate is not much, especially through the WGs, so I'd just run tee's on both sides. I'd probably do a -8 AN feed if you're going to use a -6 AN waterline and a -4 AN to the WGs, just to encourage flow through everything, but a -6 AN feed is probably fine. You can actually use -4 AN on the waterlines of the turbo if it helps, it's close to the factory size on watercooled turbos.
Generally inlet to outlet temps on the turbo aren't hugely different that I've been able to tell (IR gun) during normal running, but at idle they do diverge quite a bit due to the low flow. On shutoff it boils of course.
In another new a 6 year old bird died today. The cause of death? Sadness
“If liberty means anything at all, it means the right to tell people what they do not want to hear.”
― George Orwell
I wasn't really sure how much water I needed to move through the gates or if the sizing would be an issue. Previously I was running -4 AN lines on my GT35R as that's what the water fittings are for (M14x1.5 to -4AN). I'm thinking the WGs will add very little flow demand and that a -4AN feed for the whole thing would be okay. I was actually pretty surprised when doing my SR20 setup that they commonly use -6AN water lines. I thought that was pretty excessive!
Mike
IG: @mikevanshellenbeck
Yea, the -6 AN stuff is crazy for just a turbo CHRA, but if you're feeding both, I'd probably go -6 AN on the inlet and very exit sides of the tees, -4 AN in between on everything. The WGs have 2 1/16" ID passages off each port, so -4 AN (~0.17" ID) is fine to feed that, but I'd go with a -6 AN for the whole shebang personally.
FWIW an -8AN line fits perfectly onto the feed port on the head and drain port on the block. Obviously if you're going to weld a male fitting to one or both of those locations then it is of no consequence.
The threads in the head and block I am using are M14x1.5, and a GT35R -4AN water fitting has been what I have been using for both locations currently. I'll probably go with -6AN feed and drain at the ends like Jacob is suggesting. Just need to find (2) M14x1.5 to -6AN, but that shouldn't be any problem.
Mike
IG: @mikevanshellenbeck
Is the tb feed on the head a m14x1.5?
1989 535i - sold
1999 M3 Tiag/Dove - sold
1998 M3 Turbo Arctic/black - current
2004 Built motor TiAg/Black - Sold
2008 E61 19T Turbo-Wagon - current
2011 E82 135i - S85 Swap - current
1998 M3 Cosmos S54 swapped Sedan - current
1998 Turbo: PTE6870 | 1.15 ar | Hp Cover, Custom Divided T4 bottom-mount, 3.5" SS exhaust, Dual Turbosmart Compgates, Turbosmart Raceport BOV, 3.5" Treadstone Intercooler, 3.5" Vibrant resonator and muffler, Arp 2k Headstuds | Arp 2k Main studs | 87mm Je pistons | Eagle rods | 9.2:1 static compression, Ces 87mm cutring, Custom solid rear subframe bushings, Akg 85d diff bushings, 4 clutch 3.15 diff, , Poly engine mounts, UUC trans mounts W/ enforcers, 22RPD OBD2 Stock ECU id1700 E85 tune, 22RPD Big power Transmission swap w/ GS6-53
The TB feed is M12x1.5. The M14x1.5 port is usually plugged on OBD2 cars, or used as a temp sensor on OBD1 setups. I don't have a stock cluster at all, so I have the middle M14x1.5 port as coolant feed to the turbo/WGs, one of the M12 ports is OBD2 coolant temp sensor, and the other M12 is coolant temp to the AIM MXL.
Mike
IG: @mikevanshellenbeck
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