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Thread: How do you press in a ball joint?

  1. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by e46tknv View Post
    I need both sides though
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  2. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by e46tknv View Post
    That's what I'm trying to get at. Wouldn't it be simple pressing it in. Ball joint into control arm?
    The hole for the inner ball joint sits at a very odd angle. It is difficult to stabilize the arm at the correct angle so the ball joint gets inserted perfectly straight. The ball joint has a perfectly flat base. This makes it easier to press the arm onto the ball joint instead of the joint into the arm. The joint must insert straight. There really isn't much room for error here. For myself and many others it was easier to do it this way.

    Just a suggestion another suggestion is to remove the rubber boots before you press in the ball joints. Even a tiny pinch will allow water and dirt to get in. They aren't difficult to remove and reinstall
    Last edited by flyfishvt; 10-12-2014 at 05:41 AM.

  3. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by flyfishvt View Post
    Just a suggestion another suggestion is to remove the rubber boots before you press in the ball joints. Even a tiny pinch will allow water and dirt to get in. They aren't difficult to remove and reinstall
    I just leave the thread protector on when pressing the joint in. It covers the rubber seal and keeps it from getting hurt.

  4. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by dohcdoh View Post
    I just leave the thread protector on when pressing the joint in. It covers the rubber seal and keeps it from getting hurt.
    This.

  5. #30
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    [QUOTE="rajicase;27999681"Also, I have the pipe fitting and reducer I used. Ill get them for you later. You can get them at home depot/lowes for a few $$.[/QUOTE]
    Any update with that?

  6. #31
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    Bump

  7. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by e46tknv View Post
    Bump
    Why?

  8. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by dohcdoh View Post
    Why?
    Because Sparky jr
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  9. #34
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    I stand behind a piece of plywood while pressing. Its just 5/8 or so with a one by screwed to it as a handle. It would at least slow down shrapnel.

  10. #35
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    With a 20T press, I had no trouble pushing the threaded stud clean through the bottom of the balljoint housing. Just pressed on the stud until the housing blew out. With that done, it was then no trouble pressing the [now very broken] balljoint housing out using an appropriately sized socket for pressing and another for catching.

    I reinstalled with a large socket. After getting the hang of using the press, identifying how i wanted to press the new joint in and which socket I wanted was manageable with a trip to the auto store.
    Last edited by antik; 10-18-2014 at 09:30 PM.

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  11. #36
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    Its ~$120 for the new ball joints or $200 for new control arms with new ball joints already pressed in..? Does anyone else feel like just paying the extra $ for the LCA's and spare the trouble including buying a 20 ton press isn't such a bad deal??
    If the mind can conceive it, & you believe it, you will achieve it. - Napolean Hill
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  12. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by hide1 View Post
    Its ~$120 for the new ball joints or $200 for new control arms with new ball joints already pressed in..? Does anyone else feel like just paying the extra $ for the LCA's and spare the trouble including buying a 20 ton press isn't such a bad deal??
    I have the press already. You can make excuses to not do anything if you try hard enough.

  13. #38
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    I have the press too

  14. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by dohcdoh View Post
    I have the press already. You can make excuses to not do anything if you try hard enough.
    That's funny I used to say the same thing about people who made an excuse to not wake up and go to the boxing gym. So how much did you spend on a 20 ton press, and how often do you use it?
    If the mind can conceive it, & you believe it, you will achieve it. - Napolean Hill
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  15. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by hide1 View Post
    That's funny I used to say the same thing about people who made an excuse to not wake up and go to the boxing gym. So how much did you spend on a 20 ton press, and how often do you use it?
    $200 for new control arms?

    New M3 control arms are ~$220 PER side.

    20 ton press is $150 and the ball joints are $120 = $370

    Seems like a no brainer to me. Save $30-50 initially AND have a very handy tool! Sure you may only use the press every once in a while, but when you do need it, it sure is great to have! Versus buying new control arms you basically get a free 20 ton press + $50.

  16. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by hide1 View Post
    That's funny I used to say the same thing about people who made an excuse to not wake up and go to the boxing gym. So how much did you spend on a 20 ton press, and how often do you use it?
    Bought the press so long ago I have no idea. Doesn't matter how often I use it, it's paid for itself many times over. Pressing bushings, bearings, ball joints, whatever I need it for. Just recently used it on my e30 pressing in new ball joints and bushings. I've had it for...15 years?

  17. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by rajicase View Post
    $200 for new control arms?

    New M3 control arms are ~$220 PER side.

    20 ton press is $150 and the ball joints are $120 = $370

    Seems like a no brainer to me. Save $30-50 initially AND have a very handy tool! Sure you may only use the press every once in a while, but when you do need it, it sure is great to have! Versus buying new control arms you basically get a free 20 ton press + $50.
    Thanks for the cost info. I couldn't see the bother but that makes more sense now. I see this in my near future and have a nasty habit of increasing my tool collection already..

    - - - Updated - - -

    Am I wrong in assuming e30 meyle non-HD still the balljoints of choice being all metal where the Lemforders are plastic-metal?
    If the mind can conceive it, & you believe it, you will achieve it. - Napolean Hill
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  18. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by hide1 View Post
    Thanks for the cost info. I couldn't see the bother but that makes more sense now. I see this in my near future and have a nasty habit of increasing my tool collection already.. - - - Updated - - - Am I wrong in assuming e30 meyle non-HD still the balljoints of choice being all metal where the Lemforders are plastic-metal?
    I wouldn't get in a twist over plastic. Your original ball joints have plastic in them.

    +1 on the cost savings. You will never find M3 control arms for less than $200 per side unless you get used. Non-M control arms are cheap. It doesn't make sense to replace ball joints on non-m. I picked up a 30 ton press on CL for $75. It was missing the bottle jack. $45 bottle jack from tractor supply and I was in business. It has paid for itself several times in the last year. It's BIG. So it's nit for everyone but you can get a table top 12 ton press from Harbor Freight for less than $100
    Last edited by flyfishvt; 10-19-2014 at 05:33 AM.

  19. #44
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    I bought after market control arms from rock auto. And I know not to buy the brand, I forgot the name of it but it starts with "U".

    I bought them for $60 a piece. See if I like them, if I don't. I will always have my oem arms with lemforder ball joints laying around.

  20. #45
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    Is it URO by chance? If so... they'll be shot in no time.

    Knowing URO parts, their control arm will probably figure a way to make your exhaust fall off and have your front subframe disintegrate and your engine will fall out on the interstate and your rear bumper will melt and all of your windows will shatter.

  21. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by rajicase View Post
    Is it URO by chance? If so... they'll be shot in no time. Knowing URO parts, their control arm will probably figure a way to make your exhaust fall off and have your front subframe disintegrate and your engine will fall out on the interstate and your rear bumper will melt and all of your windows will shatter.
    It is URO. I didn't order URO. I saw reviews about them. I got raybestas

  22. #47
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    Okay hopefully those fair better than the URO.

    I put raybestos tie rods from rockauto on my 99 jeep Cherokee, and so far(5k miles) they have held up fine.

  23. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by rajicase View Post
    Okay hopefully those fair better than the URO. I put raybestos tie rods from rockauto on my 99 jeep Cherokee, and so far(5k miles) they have held up fine.
    I'm thinking to keep my lemforder ball joints instead of sending them back. And at some point press them in my oem arms.


    But in the meantime. Anything aftermarket is better then the crazy shaking I have from my outer ball joint.

  24. #49
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    For the record, I would still cut the long stud if I was doing this job a second time. It's very difficult to fit a long enough adapter over the stud and press down at a steady angle, and I would be afraid of simply pressing the stud through the base plate deforming the rest of the balljoint so much you can no longer press it out.

    For shameless self-promotion, here's my DIY thread at M3F with all the specific adapters and techniques one needs to do this job. For the love of jehova, don't have an assistant put their hands on any of the adapters while you are pressing.

    http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=402063

  25. #50
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    I will hold onto my stock control arms and if these aftermarket arms fail on me. I will always have my Oem arms.

    These raybestos arms with ball joints so far driven for 3 days and it feels "different". Don't know if it's a bad or good different.
    Car feels nice and sturdy. When cutting the wheel all the way to the right or left, steering wheel feels loose. I can't really explain it


    Cheers!

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