1996 332IS
Built 3.2
CES/Steed TS Precision 6466, spraying a "$π!℅" load of meth.
Technique Tuning 80# tune.
1/4 mile 10.84 @ 136.72
Your 1 and only stop for all your BMW performance needs
WWW.CESMOTORSPORT.COM
The hole for the inner ball joint sits at a very odd angle. It is difficult to stabilize the arm at the correct angle so the ball joint gets inserted perfectly straight. The ball joint has a perfectly flat base. This makes it easier to press the arm onto the ball joint instead of the joint into the arm. The joint must insert straight. There really isn't much room for error here. For myself and many others it was easier to do it this way.
Just a suggestion another suggestion is to remove the rubber boots before you press in the ball joints. Even a tiny pinch will allow water and dirt to get in. They aren't difficult to remove and reinstall
Last edited by flyfishvt; 10-12-2014 at 05:41 AM.
Bleed your cooling system http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1709482The ULTIMATE OEM Alarm/Keyless thread http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1792200
[QUOTE="rajicase;27999681"Also, I have the pipe fitting and reducer I used. Ill get them for you later. You can get them at home depot/lowes for a few $$.[/QUOTE]
Any update with that?
Bump
I stand behind a piece of plywood while pressing. Its just 5/8 or so with a one by screwed to it as a handle. It would at least slow down shrapnel.
With a 20T press, I had no trouble pushing the threaded stud clean through the bottom of the balljoint housing. Just pressed on the stud until the housing blew out. With that done, it was then no trouble pressing the [now very broken] balljoint housing out using an appropriately sized socket for pressing and another for catching.
I reinstalled with a large socket. After getting the hang of using the press, identifying how i wanted to press the new joint in and which socket I wanted was manageable with a trip to the auto store.
Last edited by antik; 10-18-2014 at 09:30 PM.
Cosmos on Black '98.5 M3 Coupe 5MT
Its ~$120 for the new ball joints or $200 for new control arms with new ball joints already pressed in..? Does anyone else feel like just paying the extra $ for the LCA's and spare the trouble including buying a 20 ton press isn't such a bad deal??
If the mind can conceive it, & you believe it, you will achieve it. - Napolean Hill
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1998 Alpine White & 1998 Arctic Silver ///m3/4/5
JC Intake - ASC Delete - Dinan TB - Flow Matched 21.5# Injectors - JC Tune - SS Euro Reps (modified to retain SAP) - z3m ssk - Eisenmann Race 76mm - Yokohama Advan S2 - Squared LTW's - FK Silverline +X - Rogue FCAB/ RTAB/ RSM/ TM - X-Brace - CDV Delete -Racing Dynamics F&R Strut Braces - NGK BKR6E- German Castrol 0w-40
I have the press too
If the mind can conceive it, & you believe it, you will achieve it. - Napolean Hill
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1998 Alpine White & 1998 Arctic Silver ///m3/4/5
JC Intake - ASC Delete - Dinan TB - Flow Matched 21.5# Injectors - JC Tune - SS Euro Reps (modified to retain SAP) - z3m ssk - Eisenmann Race 76mm - Yokohama Advan S2 - Squared LTW's - FK Silverline +X - Rogue FCAB/ RTAB/ RSM/ TM - X-Brace - CDV Delete -Racing Dynamics F&R Strut Braces - NGK BKR6E- German Castrol 0w-40
$200 for new control arms?
New M3 control arms are ~$220 PER side.
20 ton press is $150 and the ball joints are $120 = $370
Seems like a no brainer to me. Save $30-50 initially AND have a very handy tool! Sure you may only use the press every once in a while, but when you do need it, it sure is great to have! Versus buying new control arms you basically get a free 20 ton press + $50.
Bought the press so long ago I have no idea. Doesn't matter how often I use it, it's paid for itself many times over. Pressing bushings, bearings, ball joints, whatever I need it for. Just recently used it on my e30 pressing in new ball joints and bushings. I've had it for...15 years?
Thanks for the cost info. I couldn't see the bother but that makes more sense now. I see this in my near future and have a nasty habit of increasing my tool collection already..
- - - Updated - - -
Am I wrong in assuming e30 meyle non-HD still the balljoints of choice being all metal where the Lemforders are plastic-metal?
If the mind can conceive it, & you believe it, you will achieve it. - Napolean Hill
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1998 Alpine White & 1998 Arctic Silver ///m3/4/5
JC Intake - ASC Delete - Dinan TB - Flow Matched 21.5# Injectors - JC Tune - SS Euro Reps (modified to retain SAP) - z3m ssk - Eisenmann Race 76mm - Yokohama Advan S2 - Squared LTW's - FK Silverline +X - Rogue FCAB/ RTAB/ RSM/ TM - X-Brace - CDV Delete -Racing Dynamics F&R Strut Braces - NGK BKR6E- German Castrol 0w-40
I wouldn't get in a twist over plastic. Your original ball joints have plastic in them.
+1 on the cost savings. You will never find M3 control arms for less than $200 per side unless you get used. Non-M control arms are cheap. It doesn't make sense to replace ball joints on non-m. I picked up a 30 ton press on CL for $75. It was missing the bottle jack. $45 bottle jack from tractor supply and I was in business. It has paid for itself several times in the last year. It's BIG. So it's nit for everyone but you can get a table top 12 ton press from Harbor Freight for less than $100
Last edited by flyfishvt; 10-19-2014 at 05:33 AM.
Bleed your cooling system http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1709482The ULTIMATE OEM Alarm/Keyless thread http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1792200
I bought after market control arms from rock auto. And I know not to buy the brand, I forgot the name of it but it starts with "U".
I bought them for $60 a piece. See if I like them, if I don't. I will always have my oem arms with lemforder ball joints laying around.
Is it URO by chance? If so... they'll be shot in no time.
Knowing URO parts, their control arm will probably figure a way to make your exhaust fall off and have your front subframe disintegrate and your engine will fall out on the interstate and your rear bumper will melt and all of your windows will shatter.
Okay hopefully those fair better than the URO.
I put raybestos tie rods from rockauto on my 99 jeep Cherokee, and so far(5k miles) they have held up fine.
For the record, I would still cut the long stud if I was doing this job a second time. It's very difficult to fit a long enough adapter over the stud and press down at a steady angle, and I would be afraid of simply pressing the stud through the base plate deforming the rest of the balljoint so much you can no longer press it out.
For shameless self-promotion, here's my DIY thread at M3F with all the specific adapters and techniques one needs to do this job. For the love of jehova, don't have an assistant put their hands on any of the adapters while you are pressing.
http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=402063
I will hold onto my stock control arms and if these aftermarket arms fail on me. I will always have my Oem arms.
These raybestos arms with ball joints so far driven for 3 days and it feels "different". Don't know if it's a bad or good different.
Car feels nice and sturdy. When cutting the wheel all the way to the right or left, steering wheel feels loose. I can't really explain it
Cheers!
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