97 e36 m3 turbo build

[vollosso]

It looks like at rest, my tps is sitting at just over 17%. Seems to me that might be enough to keep the dme from modulating the icv to control idle.

it should adapt if it were that.

[Butters Stoch]

17.3% here. That won't be a problem adapting. Check your LTFT's.

[fletcher0780]

17.3% here. That won't be a problem adapting. Check your LTFT's.

Well, I modified my TPS so I could bring the resting percentage down, I'm now at 8.4% resting and 99.6% WOT. Should I leave it or set it back to where it was?
Checked my LTFT and it is showing -7.8
I keep getting the P0505 ICV code, I'm going to pull the ICV and clean with some carb cleaner while modulating it with a 9V. Any other suggestions?

Oh, and Butters, this is Graphite9's old RK DME and MAF, cursed???

[Butters Stoch]

Well, I modified my TPS so I could bring the resting percentage down, I'm now at 8.4% resting and 99.6% WOT. Should I leave it or set it back to where it was?
Checked my LTFT and it is showing -7.8
I keep getting the P0505 ICV code, I'm going to pull the ICV and clean with some carb cleaner while modulating it with a 9V. Any other suggestions?

Oh, and Butters, this is Graphite9's old RK DME and MAF, cursed???

Graphite had problems with idle. Your pulling 7.8% fuel, so ... Not enough air. Open TPS back to 17-18%, and check fuel pressure.

[fletcher0780]

Graphite had problems with idle. Your pulling 7.8% fuel, so ... Not enough air. Open TPS back to 17-18%, and check fuel pressure.

Will do. I'm less concerned with idle quality and more with getting it to pass CT emissions and not run 10.5 afr or richer on full boost. I need to go pick up a fuel pressure gauge.

[Butters Stoch]

Will do. I'm less concerned with idle quality and more with getting it to pass CT emissions and not run 10.5 afr or richer on full boost. I need to go pick up a fuel pressure gauge.

Stock FPR ?

[fletcher0780]

Stock FPR ?

Yes

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Looks like about 48psi at idle

[Butters Stoch]

Yes

- - - Updated - - -

Looks like about 48psi at idle

There's a problem. Your FP is over powering your regulator. You should be a little lower. Take the vacuum hose off the regulator and retest pressure. Should be 51 @ 0 vacuum.

[fletcher0780]

Will do that in the morning. I'm also going to pull the ICV and give it a good cleaning.

[fletcher0780]

Looks like close to 60psi at cold idle (which is terrible now, kept stalling and I had to keep it alive a bit). My ICV must be junk?

I'm running a 255 rally road pump kit. Buy a factory replacement fpr or is there a suggested alternative?



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Looks like my ICV is toast. It was pretty stuck when I pulled it out and I was able to free it up a bit, but it is now mechanically stuck past about 20% open. Explains why my cold idle sucks balls now.

[jjjjjjj]

Highly recommend a better FPR. I recently installed an adjustable aeromotive 13109 with the fp gauge and was amazed by a perfect idle and better overall drivability afterwards vs before when it was always super rich bogging down at idle, traffic, etc. Really great mod that doesn't seem to get enough attention.

[Butters Stoch]

Highly recommend a better FPR. I recently installed an adjustable aeromotive 13109 with the fp gauge and was amazed by a perfect idle and better overall drivability afterwards vs before when it was always super rich bogging down at idle, traffic, etc. Really great mod that doesn't seem to get enough attention.

Tuners don't like them cause you can "tweek" things. But, since even a 255 will over power the stock FPR, I agree, everyone should have one.

[rajicase]

No issues with my 255 and stock fpr.

Perfect idle AFRs, no bouncing, hunting, etc.

[Butters Stoch]

No issues with my 255 and stock fpr.

Perfect idle AFRs, no bouncing, hunting, etc.

Your fuel pressure will be above 3.5 bar. Most guys here are running 340's to 450's.

Adaption is taking care of things. But remember, if your pulling fuel to meet adaption, then your losing that fuel in boost.

[fletcher0780]

Is there a plug and play option for OBD2 e36's? If not, what is my best option? My new ICV will arrive today, so hopefully that will fix my low cold idle and stalling at stop lights.

[Butters Stoch]

Is there a plug and play option for OBD2 e36's? If not, what is my best option? My new ICV will arrive today, so hopefully that will fix my low cold idle and stalling at stop lights.

The easiest is to cut up your 3/2 valve, leaving the sensor plugged in. Then using an obd1 rail. Buy the $25 FPR block off from bimmerworld. I have a few obd1 rails kicking around if you need.

[chikinhed]

What exactly do you do to your 3/2 valve? Mine only exists to have something to plug the connector into. I've never even tried to run it unplugged even though no fuel lines are connected to it. (Obd2) id like to just pull it out of there for mor room.



Sent from my GTX3582R

[fletcher0780]

The new ICV seems to have fixed my low cold idle and oscillating warm idle. I'm going to try and set readiness so I can pass emissions, then I'll start working on the rich boost condition. I've got about another 45 days to get it through emissions.

On a side note, I'm considering using the factory ASC to trigger reduced boost mode on my EBC when it detects wheel spin. Anyone ever try something like this?

[Butters Stoch]

The new ICV seems to have fixed my low cold idle and oscillating warm idle. I'm going to try and set readiness so I can pass emissions, then I'll start working on the rich boost condition. I've got about another 45 days to get it through emissions.

On a side note, I'm considering using the factory ASC to trigger reduced boost mode on my EBC when it detects wheel spin. Anyone ever try something like this?

Don't slow the car down. Its better to spend your thoughts and energy improving traction. Reducing the power may give traction , but your no longer putting down what it can.

[IR M5]

The new ICV seems to have fixed my low cold idle and oscillating warm idle. I'm going to try and set readiness so I can pass emissions, then I'll start working on the rich boost condition. I've got about another 45 days to get it through emissions. On a side note, I'm considering using the factory ASC to trigger reduced boost mode on my EBC when it detects wheel spin. Anyone ever try something like this?

What EBC are you running? Most people here have either deleted their ASC or run Racelogic. Definitely a cool idea though.

[pbonsalb]

What EBC are you running? Most people here have either deleted their ASC or run Racelogic. Definitely a cool idea though.

I think the person who would use asc to trigger lower boost means he would use the software and wiring input only and none of the hardware. The asc would still be deleted. I have no idea what the signal is, but the idea seems interesting especially if the boost would automatically go back up. Still, to me, the asc was too intrusive and i do not know whether you could increase the threshold for activation.

[fletcher0780]

You are correct, the ASC throttle body is already deleted. I was thinking of just using the signal generated from the ASC computer to trigger a +12v on my Daytona TC1 EBC and temporarily activate a second, lower boost table. Once the ASC computer detects traction has returned, the +12v would disappear and the primary boost map would be reactivated. It's just a thought, but I know I need to address traction, I really need some rear tires. Racelogic is a great option, unfortunately, they are no longer producing their traction control unit.

[fletcher0780]

Idle is stable, no more hunting.

Started dialing in my closed loop boost control, and I think I've got it responding well, but would appreciate feedback. P=50, I=60, D=0 on the following graph and the target was 160kpa. Currently my low boost is 160kpa and high boost is 200kpa. Not sure where I'll adjust the high to, but the low is currently predictable enough to loan the car to inexperienced drivers.

[bry195]

If it were me I would try to make smaller corrections more often but it looks like pressure is not responding well already. What solenoid valve are you using? Is this the ICV?

[fletcher0780]

I'm using a standard MAC valve controlling my Tial 44mm waste gate in dual port configuration. That log shows three short bursts of WOT (2 seconds each), followed by complete throttle lift to analyze how well targets are being met. The way I read it, I thought it was responding well, but I don't have a lot of experience, which is why I appreciate your feedback. would you recommend further adjustment to the PID? any guessed on what I should try?