Wavetrac LSD Install in E39 540. Partial DIY with Pics

[jdobro22]

Thanks for the help but it looks like the diffsonline bearings are for 210mm diffs. The carrier bearing race looks too small for my diff but I could contact them to find out...

[geargrinder]

Thanks for the help but it looks like the diffsonline bearings are for 210mm diffs. The carrier bearing race looks too small for my diff but I could contact them to find out...

Yeah I kind of figured/meant reach out to him and see what he has. It might be parts cross over or maybe if not he has that part too but not listed just because its a rare size/model....

[philly98540]

Note sure if any help, but from my old pics of the carrier bearings, I can make out these identifications: KOYO 32010J/1DYR3

[geargrinder]

Nice.

https://www.123bearing.com/bearing-32010JRYA1-1DYR3-KOYO.php ?

[jdobro22]

You guys have been amazing thanks for the help. its been way too long since ive driven my car cant wait to finally finish this.

[67Riviera]

Another thread resurrect, but I'm just now getting to the point where I'm trying to piece together the last few things to finish up the diff, and found these on eBay:

Axle Differential Bearing Rear BCA Bearing NBJLM104948 for e39 215k - https://www.ebay.com/itm/Axle-Differ...8/333283566667

Assuming these are in fact the correct part, I've heard favorable reviews of BCA and they're a bit less than the Koyo. Thanks for the great write-up, Philly.

[philly98540]

Another thread resurrect, but I'm just now getting to the point where I'm trying to piece together the last few things to finish up the diff, and found these on eBay:

Axle Differential Bearing Rear BCA Bearing NBJLM104948 for e39 215k - https://www.ebay.com/itm/Axle-Differ...8/333283566667

Assuming these are in fact the correct part, I've heard favorable reviews of BCA and they're a bit less than the Koyo. Thanks for the great write-up, Philly.

Glad someone else got some use of this write up! Anyway, on those bearings, if your originals are fine, I’d stay with those. If shot, find a cross reference and see if the bearings match up. Always some risk of affecting pre load or gear lash if you go and change the bearings. Good luck.

[67Riviera]

Glad someone else got some use of this write up! Anyway, on those bearings, if your originals are fine, I’d stay with those. If shot, find a cross reference and see if the bearings match up. Always some risk of affecting pre load or gear lash if you go and change the bearings. Good luck.

Finally got around to taking everything apart, how would you discern if the originals are "fine"? This unit has 240k on it, so I went into this with the assumption that I'd have to replace everything. Same question for the pinion bearing, if it spins smoothly with no noise... let 'er rip? Everything looks clean and undamaged from what I can tell.

IMG_20200403_171919.jpg

IMG_20200403_171902.jpg

IMG_20200403_174330.jpg

[wagons ho]

To judge bearing condition, you really need to inspect the race. If the race is dull, it's worn. Also, the pinion needs to have bearing preload. If the pinion spun easily when the carrier was removed, they are worn.
It's not recommended to pull the ring off the carrier, unless you mark location. I realize that to put the sure grip in, you have to pull the ring. But any variance in the new mounting will cause problems.

[computiNATEor]

I'd say that since you're already in there, if you have the parts, there's never a better time to replace the bearings.

+1, you need to set the ring gear precisely. Gear contact pattern is critical. Eric the Car Guy has a few great videos on it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Y6vOwiCe1U

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5fARhE7v5Bg

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=npUBF9Wj1Iw

[67Riviera]

To judge bearing condition, you really need to inspect the race. If the race is dull, it's worn. Also, the pinion needs to have bearing preload. If the pinion spun easily when the carrier was removed, they are worn.
It's not recommended to pull the ring off the carrier, unless you mark location. I realize that to put the sure grip in, you have to pull the ring. But any variance in the new mounting will cause problems.

Pinion still appears to have a reasonable amount of preload. I don't have a way to measure it precisely.

Here's the races, I'd say that's worn.

IMG_20200404_111234.jpg

IMG_20200404_111252.jpg

I'd say that since you're already in there, if you have the parts, there's never a better time to replace the bearings.

+1, you need to set the ring gear precisely. Gear contact pattern is critical. Eric the Car Guy has a few great videos on it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Y6vOwiCe1U

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5fARhE7v5Bg

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=npUBF9Wj1Iw

I've watched a bunch of videos but not this particular series. Thanks!

[speedracer M]

Very nice upgrade. Thank you for sharing.

[ThaDoubleJ]

12) Carefully drive ring gear off... I put red locktite and went to 110 Ft-Lbs. I read that’s what others have done with success. These are grade 12.9 bolts and are very strong. Spec is 100 n-m plus 50 degrees for the bolts. I did not follow this.



...Continued

Do you know if this is dry or lubed with something like what ARP uses? I've just gotten my Wavetrac, bearings, seals, bolts, bushings and dial indicator so I'm ready to tackle this project and want to have all my ducks in a row before I start.

[philly98540]

Do you know if this is dry or lubed with something like what ARP uses? I've just gotten my Wavetrac, bearings, seals, bolts, bushings and dial indicator so I'm ready to tackle this project and want to have all my ducks in a row before I start.

The red locktite was the lube. Clean off all oils on the threads prior. Good luck with the install. Its a great upgrade. Mine is still working excellent. I have not touched it since the original install.

[ThaDoubleJ]

My bearing and seal kit came with new bolts, so I'll be doing the 100nm plus 50 degrees since I'm guessing they're TTY bolts. Of course mine came from Hong Kong (via ECS Tuning, still waiting for a response from them if that's ok) so for all I know they're made out of pot metal. Just curious if your source on that torque/angle spec mentioned whether that's dry or greased. The TTY bolts that hold the heads on my LS engine had to be greased, torqued in three sequences, and then turned like 75 degrees.

[philly98540]

I’d use red loctite and not use any oil or grease on the threads myself. As far as torque to yield, if those new fasteners are of unknown spec and not BMW bolts, I’d be leery going tty on them. I’d probably reuse the stock bolts and torque like I did. They felt super solid as I torqued them up and I’ve had no issues with about double stock power for many years now.

[ThaDoubleJ]

I've got an email out to ECS to find out what those bolts are and what they're made out of. If I can't get an answer that I'm comfortable with, I'll return them and just pick up some new 12.9 units to be safe.

[ThaDoubleJ]

Is there a slip joint in the driveshaft, or do I pull the diff rearward off of the bolts? I've got it (Driveshaft) unbolted, but a few light whacks didn't seem to indicate that it's going to slide forward to let me drop it out of the way, thanks.

[JimLev]

Unbolt the guibo and the center bearing. That will give you enough room to pop the CV joint out of the diff input. There are 2 slots on the input to the diff you can put a screw driver in to get the CV joint out.

[ThaDoubleJ]

So I'll need to pull the exhaust and heat shields and such?

[JimLev]

That is correct.

[ThaDoubleJ]

Starting to think I should have paid someone, crawling around under cars isn't as fun as it used to be. How about the rear axles? On page one, it says "remove", but I can't even get the inboard portion to disengage the carrier. Please tell me I don't need to pull the hubs or rear suspension or subframe or engine or anything.

[JimLev]

Back in the day laying under the car no big deal, that was then.
Take the 6 bolts out that holds the CV to the diff flange then tap on the CV if you can’t get it to pop out.
Ive done 1/2 shaft axles 3 times (different cars) never had a problem removing them.

[ThaDoubleJ]

I gave it a little tappy and it popped loose from the flange, but the rounded portion of it won't come clear to let me move it out of the way. Maybe it's because I have the wheel off the ground via the body lift point and the angle is too severe? I'll try again tomorrow, packed everything up for the evening, thanks Jim. Just so I'm clear on the exhaust, unclip O2 sensors, unbolt at the front, and pull the whole thing back to the muffler out? Then unbolt the driveshaft from the trans, unbolt some cross members, heat shields and carrier bearing.

[computiNATEor]

If you put a jack under one wheel, pushing the wheel up will allow you to swing the axle out of the way and release the diff.