MaxJax 2 Post Garage Lift Q+A

[95525ibob]

Good call on the crossbar! You would have to be nuts to use that lift without. One cannot trust concrete pad to hold. I'll stick to my railroad ties.

[letank]

This Japanese buddy has the same lift here in Japan and made the cross bars for me too, see here how he made them and how to fit, weight of the pipes and cross bar 18 kg http://alpinakozou.web.fc2.com/file/.../20101221.html

This is quite a clean set up... as for the lift option, solid wood is what I have been using, 4x4 or 8x8 what ever has been found locally when home improvements are finished.

As said with the earthquake situation, we can never be too careful. One of the jeep guys received a honda civic on his face when the jack stands tilted... he is a big guy and wrestled away from under the vehicle. The jeep is good, it is naturally lifted...

[shogun]

Question to the Maxjax owners: I noticed leaks on the columns.
One was easy to fix, just adding some new teflon tape on the quick connection thread.
The other one leaked at the bottom of the cylinder/column, that is below the area where the quick connection elbow is located, opposite where the bleeder screws are = at bottom of the cylinder. There is a threaded plug for the complete diameter of the cylinder. Disassembled that side completely and took the column out and the threaded plug off. The thread of the "plug" had no teflon tape and no other seal (ring). Anybody already had this cylinder bottom apart and can tell me what it looks like original? Any seal? Teflon tape, gasket? Nothing?
Looks like the ‘plug’ was not properly tightened originally and became more lose over the years, could removed it by hand without any tool = Pin Spanner Wrench.
I now used teflon tape for that part and used a giant pipe wrench to tighten that plug. Did not have the special tool for that part.
After re-sealing I made a bleeding process for both columns and all seems to be sealed again and working fine.

[Bimmerick]

Question to the Maxjax owners: I noticed leaks on the columns.
One was easy to fix, just adding some new teflon tape on the quick connection thread.
The other one leaked at the bottom of the cylinder/column, that is below the area where the quick connection elbow is located, opposite where the bleeder screws are = at bottom of the cylinder. There is a threaded plug for the complete diameter of the cylinder. Disassembled that side completely and took the column out and the threaded plug off. The thread of the "plug" had no teflon tape and no other seal (ring). Anybody already had this cylinder bottom apart and can tell me what it looks like original? Any seal? Teflon tape, gasket? Nothing?
Looks like the ‘plug’ was not properly tightened originally and became more lose over the years, could removed it by hand without any tool = Pin Spanner Wrench.
I now used teflon tape for that part and used a giant pipe wrench to tighten that plug. Did not have the special tool for that part.
After re-sealing I made a bleeding process for both columns and all seems to be sealed again and working fine.

Erich,
I called Danmar today and spoke Miquel; his contact info is below.

I was explaining your issue but I started to get confused about the specific part to which you were referring... So I found this illustration in the MaxJax manual; am I pointing to the right part?

Let me know and I'll give him a call back...

. MaxJaxFittings.png

Miguel Sanchez
Warranty / Technical Support
msanchez@dannmar.com Dannmar Equipment
Office: 877-432-6627 x115
Fax: 805-530-1909
646 Flinn Ave. Ste. A
Moorpark, CA 93021
www.dannmar.com

[shogun]

My one looks different at the bottom http://www.directupload.net/file/d/4...ctli3a_jpg.htm straight, probably in your pic the portion with the 2 small circles was leaking outside thru the threaded portion, maybe was not was not tightened properly in the factory or got lose, could turn it by hand, usually it is tightened by a pin spanner wrench and these small circle should probably show the pin holes for the spanner.
Cannot find any detailed drawing of that on the instruction manual. Have to disassemble and take a pic, but will take some time, as the jack is presently occupied by a friend's E34 with trans removed, hopefully it will come off by end of next week. Then I will send you a pic.

Just a mom, maybe no need to disassemble, I found a pic: Here you see another installation, on page 2 there are the columns and the outer 'shell' for the column http://s786.photobucket.com/user/Kev...?sort=3&page=1
This end part on the black painted tube was lose, NOT leaking at the inner seal, outside where the thread is , not tightened good/properly. I removed that plate and there is nothing to seal, just the thread, no seal, no o-ring, that part I now sealed up with a teflon tape.http://photobucket.com/gallery/user/...DkuanBn/?ref=1
But was is original? Seal, O-Ring size?


Here another thread with a leaking weep hole and they talk about seal kits https://www.ar15.com/forums/t_1_5/1882830_.html

[GregT53]

Three years have passed since this thread was started so I would like to know if anyone else owns this lift and, if so, are you happy with it. Has it met your expectations? Any safety concerns? Any design shortcomings? Recommendations on this or other, similar jacks would be helpful. My garage is big but the ceiling is standard at eight feet.

[shogun]

I have my one now since 6 years, use it several times/month. Would buy it again.
Key words: portability, compact storage, convenience, with a minimum ceiling height of 8 feet, it will fit in just about any home garage, with built-in wheels that allows you to use the lift when you need it, then store it out of the way when not in use.
Quality control could be better, see my posts above and you find more when searching the net, the lift is made in China, but repairable.
Leaks on my unit after 6 years use can come, and are repairable so far. Apparently they now also use U.S. electric motors for the hydraulic unit.
After sales service is fine, so far technical support was good, when I contacted them with the problem I had to solve with the defective quick connection valves, see above the pics.

[MCMM3]

If you want to see all the details on the MaxJax I did a thread on another forum that covers the entire transporting, install and use.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=75488

Mine is 7 years old, and the best tool in my garage!

[shogun]

I have read all 30 pages there, unfortunately no info about seals on the leaking points I had as described above.
But I read several posts of people not getting the lifts up evenly despite bleeding and bleeding. Maybe you post a link of this thread there in case someone has problems with getting the lifts up evenly, and show them the pics in my posts #70 showing metal chips inside the quick connection valves from drilling from the production, they should check this. I cleaned that up, installed new quick connection valves and the problem was solved.
Also 1 person posted in your thread about a wrong installed connector on the hydraulic unit, I had the same, see here http://e32b12.blogspot.jp/search/label/Lift
When you scroll further down there are pics of the new delivered MaxJax with 1 connection valve where they forgot to make the thread, quality control must become better.
And for people which have questions if the package from Danmar fits on a US Truck, I used my tiny 650cc Honda Acty truck for the transportation from Tokyo Habor to my home, just disassembled the package a bit, all fitted on my tiny truck
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-T9XgTDX6tM...0/P1140703.jpg

[shogun]

Just an update, no problems at all with the MaxJax since I did the re-sealing of the connectors, now using it already since about 8 years.

[shogun]

I just read in garage journal flwg post: "On the power unit I installed a 1 liter (1000 c.c.) extra tank for the hydraulic oil. I noticed that when you were lifting a car to the maximum height the MaxJax would run empty on oil for about 1 second. Even though that Danmar says this is safe and this way you know that the MAxJax is reaching maximum height I do not believe that running the pump with no oil is healthy. On the other hand this way no air gets into the hydraulic system and I do not have to bleed the system that often. "
I am not registered there and therefore cannot upload the attachment showing such modification https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/...d.php?t=164933
Is a member of BF registered there and could copy and upload the pic here?
Indeed the original tank is a bit small, always has to be full up to the limit. As far as I remember they once increased the size of the tank. So for the existing (older style) hydraulic unit installation a small extra tank attached to the original tank might be a good idea.

Another question to the long time Maxjax users: Did you ever change the hydraulic oil in the unit? If so, interval? months/years?

[shogun]

today I wanted to make a trans oil service on a friends car, when lifting the E34 up I suddenly see that one side goes faster up and the other side had ATF leaking, exactly thru this weep hole, same problem like 2 years ago already, pic borrowed from another thread where someone had the same problem https://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b...psi5n0dqlt.jpg
Did someone have the same problem and how did you solve it? Are there any column cylinder / piston seal kits/parts available from Danmar? Part numbers?
I pulled the piston out of the tube, cannot see any seal at the bottom, just at the top of the piston a blue seal and a brown flat ring above that. The blue seal has a damage mark, probably the leakage problem, the brown ring is - I assume - a guide ring. I assume I need a piston seal. If I understand the cylinder design correctly, its a single acting, that's an air vent for the other side of the piston. So if fluid is bypassing the piston seal, then its leaking out the air vent. Anyone has the dimensions if the blue seal or a source for a seal kit? Bought the unit 2011, name tag on the column states: Danmar, Model No. MaxJax, Lifting capacity 6000 LBS, Serial No. 2807, Date of Mfg. 2011, Volts 115, AMP: 21A, phone 1-877-342 6627
Pics I took

[shogun]

A helpful forum member contacted MaxJax with my serial number and he just got the repair seal kit and will send it to me to Japan, will install then in October. They were $42.90 each side, and $13.88 shipping from California.

[5mall5nail5]

Shogun and others - do you know what PSI your pad is and or did you have it tested or repoured?

I am between Quick Jacks and Max Jacks. Quick Jacks is obviously easier with unknown pad thickness but I am not entirely sure how I'll raise the E34 on it. F30 is no issue with jack pads.

[shogun]

Pound-force per square inch? No idea. So far no need to re-pour. Mine from 2011 has the square pads, sometimes the edges break away. found pads on Ebay Australia AUS$25 ea., seller: raptorrubber eBay item number: 123903418442 BENDPAK RUBBER HOIST PAD, AMERICAN STYLE SQUARE HOIST PAD, Pad dimensions 5-5/8” x 5-5/8” x 1-3/16” thick (143mm x 143mm x 30mm thick), designed to slip over a square steel adaptor plate measuring. Steel plate dimensions 4-3/4” x 4-3/4” (121mm x 121mm), European designed pad with raised nipples to improve gripping capabilities, Equivalent to BendPak # 5715365 or DANNMAR # 17108189, also fits MX10 XPR-9 MX10ac MAXJAX , BENDPAK SQUARE PAD - AMERICAN STYLE also fits DANMAR 2 slip on style 17108189

amazon 4 pcs for $40 from REPLACEMENTKITS.COM - Square Rubber Arm Pads Fit BendPak Danmar 2-Post Car Lift New Set of 4 - Black, and directly from their website https://www.replacementkits.com/coll...?q=Lift%20Pads

the newer pads from Maxjax have round shape pads. Also sold individually. They also sell frame cradle pads for $45.00 each, frame cradle pads designed like clamps with a sticky rubber mat to reduce slippage
https://www.maxjaxusa.com/buy-purcha...-lift.html?p=1

On some cars the pad thickness is not enough, so I add woodblock pieces, but for E32, E36, E34, E30, E46, E38, E39, E31 no problem with the standard pads, I tested it.

[shogun]

today I received the seal kits from Danmar via a forum member. 1 week ago he also asked the spare parts person there in Danmar where all the seals should be installed, no reply so far. He will try to get a reply next week, service dpt should give for safety reasons detailed instructions what part goes where.
The 1 post we disassembled shows 2 seals at the top, but not 9 as in the new kit, here an overview. 1 pic shows the original seals, the other pic shows the old seals removed from the cylinder next to the cylinder, next to the old used ones are 2 new ones which would fit by size, and the last row are 2 more new seals of same design but smaller in diameter, plus 5 o-rings/seals as shown in the pic, so for 1 column/cylinder the sent 9 !! seals, I can only find 2. The metal parts such as spring clip etc shown clostest to the cylinder we removed from inside of the top of the cylinder, just to see if there are seals to be replaced, but negative. Anybody has an idea where all these seals go? Anyone installed such a kit and has an idea?
I still have to remove at the bottom of the piston the threaded piece, maybe inside there are those seals located. So I stopped for now, till I get a reply from MaxJax with details, hopefully.

[shogun]

Got following info from their technical support: The drawing below shows the seals and O-rings inside the cylinder, and the part descriptions are in the red box. And the cpl. kit per 1 side looks like this. The smallest O-ring is for the bleed screw. As for the smaller 4 black seals their service dpt replied in case of my 2011 built one: ... most likely the design of our cylinders has been slightly modified since 2011. The seal kits we offer now are for our current cylinders, however, any changes made should be minimal. I would suggest using the original seals as your starting point, and only change those. If you end up having extra or unused seals, that’s ok. Also, if there isn’t a replacement for any current seal but it looks like the integrity is still intact, the cylinder should still be operational once reassembled. I apologize I do not have more accurate information. Detailed drawings of the seal kit replacement procedures is something we are working on.
Replaced the large green lipseal and the wiper, the other 4 are not for my 2011 version. Lift works again fine, no leakage anymore. For info: The old lip seal shows UN 41.28 50.8 7.94 that means : lip seal UN 41.28 x 50.8 x 7.94 or lip seal UN 41.28*50.8*7.94
MaxJaxseals.png

[shogun]

Today I changed with a wrenching buddy the 2nd post piston seal and the wear ring, both are almost on top of the piston. In most of the cases the main wear part is the piston seal. As far as I understand MaxJax does not sell them as single item but just kits as shown in my post above and many of them even do not exist on my 2011 built one. The piston seal as shown in my post above has the following numbers:
The old lip seal which I replaced shows UN 41.28 50.8 7.94 that means : lip seal UN 41.28 x 50.8 x 7.94mm or lip seal UN 41.28*50.8*7.94 , the new one shows lightly different numbers: 50.8 41.27 7.93mm. And no mentioning of UN, UN is a design/shape version for seals. So as I got the parts from the maker directly in the kit, actually both dimensions fit.
In case you want to change only the one lip seal in each piston and MJ does not sell it to you, here are alternatives for a lip seal for this type for around $50 instead of more than $100 from MJ for a cpl. kit with parts which are not needed.
SEAL KITS - MAXJAX , Mid-Rise Lift 6,000 lb, Hydraulic Repair Seal Kit, Kit #119102 $48.50 from Lazzar's Floor Jack Company https://www.hcrcnow.com/shop/seal-kits/maxjax
Hydraulic Cylinder Seal Kit for MaxJax , SVI Part #: BH-7480-20 price to be checked , that includes beside the lip seal also the wear ring, a C-clip and O-ring for the bleeder screw https://www.sviinternational.com/part/bh-7480-20/
These suppliers I found with a quick google search, there might be more out there.

car lift basic hydraulic cylinder repair https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=STPhKJERLlk not a MaxJax, but good basics
make sure that the lip of the oil seal is facing the oil pressure as instructed in this video.
I found on my lift 1 lip seal wrong installed by the maker, so each of the 2 posts had the lip seal installed differently. The one which leaked last year was the one with the originally wrong installed lip seal.

[shogun]

additional info: in the section Seals & Misc. Parts - U-Seal Symmetrical - Metric you find the main seal only, also called ram seal, Model # 041.28x050.08x007.94 , Manufacturer: U-Seal Symmetrical - Metric $ $32.93/piece. per lift post you need 1 seal https://www.hcrcnow.com/shop/seals-m.../product/77897
In case you want a kit = wear ring + ram/lip seal, this is the kit you should get based on my 2011 made MaxJax: Model #120050, Mid-Rise Lift 6,000 lb Manufacturer: MaxJax, Hydraulic Repair Seal Kit (for ONE Cylinder) item # 119102 price per kit $ 58.50. This is for one cylinder and you will need two kits. The sizes are correct. https://www.hcrcnow.com/shop/seal-kits/product/77107
The u-cup ram/lip seal I got from hcrcnow shows following: make HALLITE, W2, 513-88642 , 1 - 5/8 x 2 x 5/16 ,
Invoice mentions: if-041.28x0,50.08x007.94 seal, U-seal Symmetrical - Metric, Model 041.28x050.08x007.94

[shogun]

Got an email from a MaxJax owner which found this thread and is not a member here, he asked me to post this info for MaxJax owners, quote:
Hello Shogun,
I am writing to you because I found the solution for the seals in our MAXJAX lift. I wanted to share it with everyone but I am not a BMW member. I did not want to join yet another forum.
My story:
I bought my lift in around October 2014 and installed it that same year. I never used it until 2018. It developed two leaks in the time I have owned it till now. The first was on the quick disconnect. hydraulic fluid would seep out when in use. Once don't I disconnected it at the post and no more leaking(I never fixed it). The second leak came from the other post last year(2019). It turns out to be the piston seal. I finally got around to calling Dannmar only to find out they are now out of business and another company bought them out. The good news: in a few months BenPak will start supporting it again. They are only taking pre-orders at this time.

Thanks to you mostly and digging online I was able to find a great deal of information. There is not much on our lift anywhere. I pieced it all together. I found replacement seals, the original seals manufacturer and many other manufacturers that sell these seals. Below I have summarized the data behind out seals and links as well. Please share it on your BMW forum. If anyone googles MAXJAX they will find your posts.

I know about https://www.hcrcnow.com/shop seals from your posts. I found them to be well overpriced and rude when I called them to ask questions. I thought there was somewhere else I could get it for less and would educate me. I hope this helps!

I just ordered all four seals for $26 USD and $10.96USD shipping to my house in Georgia USA. If you want to post my results after install I would be happy to send you pics and a summary in a few weeks. Any questions please ask!
ORIGINAL MANUFACTURE PISTON SEAL https://www.dlseals.com/product/ba-piston-rod-seal/
ORIGINAL MANUFACTURE WIPER SEAL https://www.dlseals.com/product/ja-wiper-seal/
BA Piston Rod Seal
Description-Hydraulic cylinder PARKER BA PU Piston rod Seal
BA Piston Rod Seal is used to seal the shaft, which combines the advantages of BA and BS and adds a supporting ring. The sealing material is imported TPU and CPU, which is resistant to corrosion, high temperature, high pressure and wear
https://www.dlseals.com/product/ba-piston-rod-seal/
Temperature -35~+80℃
Color Green
Speed ≤0.5m/s
Medium Hydraulic Oil
Hardness 90~95Ashore
Press CPU≤50MPA TPU≤31.5MPA
SIZE 41.28mm × 50.8mm × 7.94mm

**This is not a standard mm size seal. If you convert it to inches you get 1.625" x 2" x .313". This is a standard size in hydraulic seals with pistons made for the USA
**The MAXJAX is a simple single-acting piston hydraulic jack. This is why it only has one hydraulic seal. The other is a wiper dust seal and another one that never gets replaced ( I can't remember the name) Dannmar never shared the data to other seals or parts manufactures and so no one knows what fits them except HCRCNOW. I measured mine at first and it was confirmed by Shogun. I also looked up the seals HCRCNOW sells too but you can't get much unless you sign up an account with this manufacturer ( HALLITE, W2, 513-88642 , 1 - 5/8 x 2 x 5/16 ).

UNP piston seals
UNP seals https://www.skf.com/binaries/pub12/I..._12-159562.png are single-acting U-cup seals made of thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU). They are suitable for pressures up to 350 bar (5075 psi) and are available in metric and inch sizes. For additional information, refer to UNP profile data below.
-MORE INFO LINK https://www.jinbondseal.com/piston-r...d-u-seals.html
-HERCULES is a seal manufacturer in USA and sales https://herculesus.com/
- MFP is a seal manufacturer in USA and sales https://www.mfpseals.com/
-HCRCNOW is sales in USA , I don't think they make seals https://www.hcrcnow.com/shop/seal-kits/product/77107

***I bought my seals from HERCULES because they were very very helpful and knowledgeable. There are two types of seals available: the DSU18 seal is not symmetrical but the PU18 seal is. I went with the PU18 seal because the one I removed looks to me to be the same size on the ID and OD rings.

PISTON U SEAL
MATERIAL & SIZE: URETHANE 41.28 x 50.8 x 7.94 or UN 1.625 x 2 x .313 , DSU18-1.62-31 $10.10 https://herculesus.com/
MATERIAL 92A URETHANE , TEMPERATURE RANGE -40° to +230° F ,PRESSURE RANGE 0 to 4,000 PSI , SPEED 3 FT/SEC

PU18-1.62-31 (SYMMETRICAL: same height on the outer and inner seal) $8.12 USD https://herculesus.com/
MATERIAL 90A URETHANE , TEMPERATURE RANGE -40° to +225° F , PRESSURE RANGE 0 to 5,000 PSI , SPEED 3 FT/SEC

WIPER RING SEAL
MATERIAL & SIZE: URETHANE RW-93URE-1.500x1.875x0.188 , ST-150-XL $4.45 https://herculesus.com/

SEAL INFORMATION
MATERIAL 94A URETHANE
TEMPERATURE RANGE -40° to +230° F

ST-XL Urethane Wiper Rings
Style ST-XL wipers are molded from premium urethane and are direct replacements for Style 'ST' or 'D' wipers. The outside diameter of the ring has a crush lip providing extra interference in the groove. A bead on the shoulder stops contaminates from entering through the groove. The inside diameter is ribbed to prevent pressure traps between the wiper and rod seal.

WIPER RING SEAL
MATERIAL & SIZE: URETHANE RW-93URE-1.500x1.875x0.188
unquote

[uscharalph]

I went with a 10,000 lb Challenger 2 post assymetrical lift

[shogun]

Got another email from the MaxJax owner, see my post # 95, he asked me to post this info, quote: Yes, I installed the seals. I opted for a more aggressive seal. Its one step above the one you used. Bought from Hercules Sealing Products for total $26.48
2 x ST-150-XL wiper ring , style ST-XL wipers are molded from premium urethane and are direct replacements for Style 'ST' or 'D' wipers. The outside diameter of the ring has a crush lip providing extra interference in the groove. A bead on the shoulder stops contaminates from entering through the groove. The inside diameter is ribbed to prevent pressure traps between the wiper and rod seal.
MATERIAL 94A URETHANE,TEMPERATURE RANGE -40° to +230° F, SPEED 3 FT/SEC, SKU ST-150-XL,A Nom ID 1-1/2,B Nom OD 1-7/8,C Nom Height 3/16,D Groove Width .187,G Housing Diameter 1.872, F Throat Diameter 1.745 E Rod Diameter 1.500

2 x PU18-1.62-31 piston u-seal, Style PU seals are molded from high quality urethane and designed specifically for piston applications. Seal information: MATERIAL90A URETHANE,TEMPERATURE RANGE -40° to +225° F, PRESSURE RANGE 0 to 5,000 PSI,
SPEED 3 FT/SEC, SKU PU18-1.62-31, Weight 0.01256600 lbs, Cross Section 3/16, A Nom ID 1-5/8,B Nom OD 2, C Nom Height 5/16, H Groove Diameter 1.625, D Groove Width .344,J Bore Diameter 2.000
https://www.herculesus.com/index.php

Some other things:
-there is a maintenance schedule for braking in your Maxjax and a hydraulic fluid replacement.
-My fluid was dirty or contaminated. Only used it about 4 or so time since 2014 to now but fluid was bad.
- if possible only used Dexron transmission fluid as it does a better job and lasts longer between fluid changes. An added bonus is that its also a detergent.
- I had a leaking quick disconnect and bought one of those flat face ones to try out. Its was just shipped so when i try it I can let you know my thoughts on it.

I took original seal pics and new seal pics attached. I cut the original green seals to see the cross section. Otherwise the seal failed due to brittleness. Here is the link to many pics: https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...PxGFp3i4WXsZcV

[skamp]

Hello All,


I am also in the process of replacing the seals on my MaxJax. Mine were totally degraded and crumbled when I removed them. I ordered the SVI kit mentioned above but am having issues getting the rod/piston back into the cylinder. It almost like the lip on the seal is a bit too tall or will not compress enough due to the seal in the SVI kit having an o-ring internal to the seal. Also I am not 100% I have them installed in the right direction. My understanding is the face of the lip goes against the fluid. I have tried hitting it pretty hard with a heavy soft faced hammer. I may go ahead and order the PU18-1.62-31 seal mentioned above if I cannot get this one to work. Any help or tips would be greatly appreciated. Below are some pictures.

Here are the seals (wiper and piston seal).

Piston:

http://www.lanability.com/images/seal1.jpg

Wiper:

http://www.lanability.com/images/seal2.jpg

These are with the seal installed:

http://www.lanability.com/images/max1.jpg

http://www.lanability.com/images/max2.jpg

http://www.lanability.com/images/max3.jpg


Thanks!
Steve

[shogun]

Check once more the direction of your installed lip seal. Car lift basic hydraulic cylinder repair https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=STPhKJERLlk not a MaxJax, but good basics
I understand it is important to make sure that the lip of the oil seal is facing the oil pressure as instructed in this video. I found on my lift 1 lip seal wrong installed by the maker, so each of the 2 posts had the lip seal installed differently. The one which leaked last year was the one with the originally wrong installed lip seal.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nCWHQC93CD0
The u-shaped open side should be to the oil pressure side that the lip can expand and seal when it get's pressure, like this /\ , not like \/

[skamp]

Hey Shogun,

So looking at the pictures I posted do you think my seal is installed in the wrong direction? The oil pressure is from the end of the position as the oil comes through the inside of the shaft and exits at the end of the piston. So shouldn’t the seal lip be closest to the end of the piston? Is it the face of the seal or the ramp of the seal that faces the oil pressure? Looking at the video the face of the seal is towards the oil pressure which is the same way I have my seal installed.

Thanks!
Steve