This Japanese buddy has the same lift here in Japan and made the cross bars for me too, see here how he made them and how to fit, weight of the pipes and cross bar 18 kg http://alpinakozou.web.fc2.com/file/.../20101221.html
He is the ultimate Alpina Fan, drives a E32 Alpina B11 735 3.5 http://alpinakozou.web.fc2.com/page2.html
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
Yes, about 1/3 of all E32 750 Alpina B12 have been sold to Japan for example. Exactly 111 cars.
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
Shogun, your friend is brilliant.
I BROKE my MaxJax yesterday!! I love this lift and I cant believe I gooned it up. I was retrofitting a "motorcycle attachment kit" and over torqued one of the fittings, cracking the hydraulic flow divider. The hairline crack is circled in the photo below. I emailed MaxJax support last night for assistance; we will see how good their support is.
Rick
<><
1993 325is - The New Daily?
1998 323is - The Daily Beater
1995 530i - The Alternate Beater
1995 540i/6 Touring - Lord Borthwick
1995 540i - The Donor & Parts Locker - Finally sent to the Crusher - RIP
should be easy to replace
Worst case is just money and time. Seems like user error anyway.
Go ahead and bite. Plenty for everyone.
I wonder if the replacement part costs as much as the lift.
demet
That part is made of cast iron, the ads say: 'cast iron gear flow divider'. Can that be welded? Here is is mentioned, difficult, but not impossible http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us...on-detail.aspx
Gear flow dividers are quite common in hydraulic equipment, if they (MJax) are too expensive, maybe you find an alternative supplier.
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
Any updates on this? Looking into possibly getting a set myself...
~Ken~ '99 M coupe THE "original" TT Stage 3 - HTA3586R; 701 whp 672 wtq @ 26.5 psi ; NeverSell - CoupeCartel
If its cast iron it can be welded - just like they weld cast iron heads to repair cracks.
The trick is to heat the item up as well as getting it clean as possible in the crack.
This used to be why welds failed because the heating process was localised and uneven but these days the really good welders use an electric heating process where they pass a current through the item to be welded and bring it up to an even temperature.
They usually gind a "V" down the crack as well to get a trench of clean metal they can fill with weld.
Its still not absolutely perfect though - the heating process itself does a job of stress releiving and so the item can twist or other cracks will develop over time.
If the weld doesn't take it will sometimes crack again down where the weld joins the casting. It can be done again treating it as yet another new crack but eventually it won't be worthwhile.
Summary - investigate carefully for a good well reputed welder. A head repair service might be a good place to start actually.
Rick
<><
1993 325is - The New Daily?
1998 323is - The Daily Beater
1995 530i - The Alternate Beater
1995 540i/6 Touring - Lord Borthwick
1995 540i - The Donor & Parts Locker - Finally sent to the Crusher - RIP
Same here, I have it now installed since >3 years, using it almost every weekend with my wrenching buddies. I had few cases that only one side came down, immy stopped it, lifted it up again and banged the other pole with a rubber mallet and all worked again. Put a bit of lube now on the poly bushes, works now since >6 months w/o such a problem. Maybe it was also that I did not bleed the system well enough at the beginning
Other similar problems here
http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/9...nt-maxjax.html
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...9900&showall=1
http://rennlist.com/forums/928-forum...ved-today.html
Usually own fault, here what one says in the links:
Talked with Gabe this morning at Dannmar. He thought that the problem had been either something in the line (most doubtful), the flow divider not "kicking in" (possible) or just some binding of the blocks in the column. He suggested the following:
Re-grease the columns and make sure the block tracks are well lubed;
Raise the car up 16 inches to test the lift under load and reposition the car fore/aft to make sure it's at its balance point;
When lowering the vehicle, activate the release valve by "feathering" it -- in other words, very light initial touch instead of just hitting it hard to start the release flow.
I did these things and everything works just dandy.
In retrospect, I think that the car was misbalanced fore/aft and bound the block at the top on one column at full extension. When I tested the balance fore/aft after talking with Gabe, it was clear that I didn't have the vehicle's balance point even with the column. I was a little back heavy. I moved the car forward so that it was more balanced and it went up and down smoothly and with no complaints. I also had liberally re-greased the inner column and tried my hand at feathering the lowering valve. It worked perfectly. Gabe said that if you initiate the lowering by easing into it instead of just hitting the lever full on, the flow divider kicks-in better. Hitting the release valve hard can make the divider bias to one side.
Anyway, one problem does not a trend make. I'm chalking it up to fine tuning the system (I hope) and learning how to do this correctly. At this point don't think it will be a repeat problem. Dannmar made it clear that they were there to help so kudos to them for that.
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
Here some ideas for cheap ramps from the Corvette owners http://corvettec3.ca/ramps.htm
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
For some reason, I always have anxiety when under a lift. No matter the size.
Ramps, however, seem like a much cheaper, sturdier, and safer solution. (That's if the wheels don't need to come off.)
Thanks, Shogun, for that link. I'm gonna be building myself something like that in the near future.
Ironically, you're infinitely safer under a professionally built lift than homemade ramps, or even store-bought ramps. One of the biggest advantages of a lift in terms of safety is that they're hydraulic, even if you had a hydraulic line blow out, it would still fall slower having to push the hydraulic fluid out. On top if it, the lifts have locks in case of a fall. If a ramp topples, you're hosed.
Go ahead and bite. Plenty for everyone.
FWIW I have been using the MaxJax for about 14 months now and have never had a single operational problem with it. Set up including bleeding the lines takes less than 15 minutes; always bleed the lines at half and again at full height, keep the posts greased and hand tighten and torque the floor bolts. It really does take home mechanics to a whole new level. It wasn't free but it makes many automotive tasks look easy. One of the only gripes I have with it is that the are only two mechanical safety stops: one at 2 feet and one at 4 feet (full lift).
Rick
<><
1993 325is - The New Daily?
1998 323is - The Daily Beater
1995 530i - The Alternate Beater
1995 540i/6 Touring - Lord Borthwick
1995 540i - The Donor & Parts Locker - Finally sent to the Crusher - RIP
Also here no problem, use it every week, just yesterday again for a friends 1996 Maserati Quattroporte Bi-Turbo for a ZF 4HP22 ATF and filter change. Was surprised to see in a 284 HP Twin Turbo car the small 4HP22 they use, but apparently it works on the 2400 cars or so they built of this model.
The 2 mechanical safety stops are enough for my hobby work.
BTW: COSTCO has the MaxJax on Sale now: $1,799.99 After $300 OFF, Dannmar MaxJax™ 2-post Portable Auto Lift- Features: 6,000 lbs. Lifting Capacity, Industrial Grade Hydraulic Cylinders, Fully Adjustable Lift Arms, Item #629573
Valid 11/19/15 through 12/20/15. While supplies last. Online Price $2,099.99 Less -$300.00 Your Price $1,799.99 Shipping & Handling Included *
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
Today I visited another MaxJax owner here in Japan who had problems with his Maxjax. Has it more than a year and almost gave up to use it. One side always went slower up and down. Also one quick connection valve was always leaking. He tried all info with regards to that, bleeding multiple times, greasing the sliders and you name it. He even bought a new flow divider for $$$.
So I tried some things:
checked level - o.k.
switched the high pressure hose connections = right side to left post and vice versa. Still the same post went up and down slower. And that was the one which was also leaking when taking off the hose connection.
So my conclusion was, that it was not a problem of the flow divider, but something in the column(s).
I disassembled both sides completely and guess what I found in the one which did not move as quick as the other one up and down when I diassembled the quick connect and check valve
MaxJaxvalve.JPG
MaxJaxvalve1.JPG
These metal chips are from cutting/drilling the thread for the connections/fittings and the quick release valve at the bottom of the column. The quick release / stop valve was partly clogged and the valve could also not close because of the particles.
I cleaned everything thoroughly, even used a small magnet and went into the column to 'fish' out more of these chips which were all at the bottom due to the heavier specific weight.
Assembled everything, moved the lift up and down 4-5 times and in between was bleeding the columns (the bolt on top of the column is for bleeding). When I started with bleeding the difference in hight between the 2 posts was about 15-20 cm, now at the top with full extension it is 1 cm = 0.39 inch, neglectable.
That means the MaxJax quality control did not check enough what they got made in China. This is the second time I have to complain about Maxjax quality control. When I got my one, I had one of the connections with missing thread connection
45415453_1686558518_206large.jpg
45415453_1686558359_28large.jpg
A friend of mine made it in Japan quality, as I did not want to wait to get it shipped from the U.S.
45415453_1687424090_112large.jpg
So in case you have a problem that one side goes up and down more slow than the other and you have checked all the usual suspects like greasing the sliders, the flow divider, level of the jacks, level of the car etc., if that is all o.k., check for metal chips in the quick connection valves and fittings and also at the bottom of the column inside where the oil flows.
Bleeding procedure as per manual:
1. With the lift in an elevated position, the hoses connected and the oil reservoir full, loosen the bleeder screws located at the top of each hydraulic cylinder using a allen wrench. Do not completely remove the bleeder screws. Watch and listen as
trapped air escapes the cylinders and fluid beings to weep from the screw area. Once steady fluid appears, re-tighten the bleeder screw. Danger!: The lift will move down when bleeding make sure all equipment, personnel, hands and feet are clear before bleeding .
2. Press the power unit raise button until both cylinders reach their full stroke. Do not continue pressing the raise button after lift reaches full height damage to the motor and / or flow divider can occur if continued.
3. Repeat the bleeding procedure.
4. Press the lowering handle inwards until the lift lowers completely to the floor. Repeat the above procedure until the lift maintains level lifting and lowering.
DO NOT use lift if an unlevel lifting condition occurs at the arm pad locations that is greater than 3-degrees or 1.5”. If an unbalanced condition occurs, Follow the bleeding instructions shown on this page or consult factory. The lift must be re-leveled, shimmed and bled each time the lift is reinstalled. Failure to follow these instructions can result in serious injury or death.
POST INSTALLATION CHECK OFF
Columns are properly shimmed and stable
Anchor bolts are tightened
Pivot / sheave pins are properly attached
Electric power supply confirmed
Tie bar straps installed and bolts tight
Safety locks bars removed
Check for hydraulic leaks
Oil level
Lubcation of critical components
Check for overhead obstructions
Lift arms are level
Arm restraints properly adjusted
All screws, bolts, and pins are secured
Surrounding area is clean
‡‡Operation, maintenance and safety manuals on site.
TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE
LIFT WILL NOT RAISE-POSSIBLE CAUSE
1. Air in oil,
2. Cylinder binding,
3. Cylinder leaks internally,
4. Motor run backward under pressure,
5. Lowering valve leaks,
6. Motor runs backwards,
7. Pump damaged,
8. Pump won’t prime,
9. Relief valve leaks,
10. Voltage to motor incorrect,
LIFT LOWERS SLOWLY OR NOT AT ALL-POSSIBLE CAUSE
1. Cylinders binding,
2. Release valve clogged,
3. Pressure fitting too long,
MaxJax Lift Owners manual link: http://www.asedeals.com/Dannmar-MaxJ...ift-Manual.pdf
Last edited by shogun; 01-09-2016 at 11:22 AM.
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
one more pic of the chips I found inside the connection valve, there you can see clearly how that was clogged, so the flow was on one side different than of the clean side, that is why one post went up and down more slow.
MaxJaxvalveChips.JPG
Edit: after 2 days of testing I found out that the quick connection valve at the ram/post is leaking a bit, the seal at the cone is slightly damaged. Did somebody already replace it and knows the original dimensions?
Not sure if that was originally a o-ring or a special seal? Parts list from Danmark does not specify theseal inside the male quick disconnect coupling #16, only
16 17206015 3/8-18 NPT MALE QUICK DISCONNECT COUPLING
17 17206019 45° STREET ELBOW 5503-06-06 1
18 17206018 HEX NIPPLE 5404-06-06 1
19 17206020 STRAIGHT EXPANDER 5405-04-06
Last edited by shogun; 01-12-2016 at 03:55 AM.
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
Just to complete the subject: Thanks to the introduction by a member of this forum I got the right contact, had a good email exchange with “Serj” from MaxJax Technical Support, he really was quick to answer and told me also some details about these.
Ordered 2 new units of MaxJax part # 17206015 3/8-18 NPT MALE QUICK DISCONNECT COUPLING at a reasonable price, as the jax was out of warranty already >4 years. You can of course also buy such 3/8-18 NPT male quick disconnect coupling online, but make sure that it has exactly the same flowrate, which is according to Serj: "flow rate of the fitting is 6 GPM". Be careful when you do not buy the original, because there are many 3/8-18 NPT quick disconnect couplings available, but the flowrates are over a wide range. If you change, change both, otherwise if one side has a different flow rate you can imagine that the speed of each side will be different and then you run into difficulties. So in this case safety comes first and original ist best.
The female fitting is $29 USD and the male fitting is $12/piece.
Last edited by shogun; 02-16-2016 at 11:46 PM.
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
Rick
<><
1993 325is - The New Daily?
1998 323is - The Daily Beater
1995 530i - The Alternate Beater
1995 540i/6 Touring - Lord Borthwick
1995 540i - The Donor & Parts Locker - Finally sent to the Crusher - RIP
Time to report, as we used my lift this weekend 2 times, Sat. for a valve body overhaul on an E38, and Sun. for the same job on an E36 Alpina B3, no problem the last 12 months, we use it in our wrenching group about 2-3 times/month.
Might be of interest for those which want the lift go higher, Maxjax now shows on their website new items
3" Height Extension For Max Jax
6" Height Extension For Max Jax
also 3" Height Adapters for the pads, advertised : Ideal for trucks and vans with running boards or auxiliary fuel tanks. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dannmar-MaxJ...-/231897521997
I wonder if then the fluid tank/reservoir for ATF on the mobile cart power unit is big enough when using extensions for the columns. With those installed, depending upon the size of your pump reservoir you may or may not have enough fluid to reach full height without pump cavitation.
Mine cavitates just as the rams top out in standard configuration, when the reservoir is not filled to the top. Normally my reservoir is full up to the fill hole when the lift is on the ground. I am thinking about to enlarge the tank a bit somehow, maybe set another smaller fitting plastic container onto the fill hole of the original reservoir. Someone has already done it? If so, pics please.
I read somewhere that older units came with 7 qt capacity, but newer ones are 6(?).
Last edited by shogun; 02-08-2017 at 07:12 AM.
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
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