What are good seat belt guide prevent/replace/ fix options? Can we list them here?

[esses]

I know there's the OEM replacement via reskinning half the seat that's been covered in about a dozen DIY's and videos, so I'm not going to reference that fix here.

Also many forum members have indicated that removing the seatbelt from the guide prior to moving the seat forwards is a good way to prevent breakage in case the belt accidently locks in place.

That said, I was hoping to get a bunch of pictures of various alternate fixes, prevention, or replacements here.

Maybe this would be good to add to the manifesto? I see there's a bunch of similar posts, but nothing quite "clean" like is being done for the stereo thread.

I'll try to get us started.

1. Using nylon drywall anchors into an OEM setbelt Guide
   
   http://www.zroadster.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=15429
   
   
   
2. Nylon Wrap
   
   http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...-with-pictures
   
   
   
3. Metal Z brace
   
   
   
   Final Clearance. PM Southernboy - http://www.zroadster.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=43225
   http://www.zroadster.net/forum/viewt...38769&start=50
   
   
   
4. Custom Leather Loop
   
   http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...at-belt-guides
   
   
   
5. Carbon Fiber Wrap
   
   http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...9#post27930929
   
   
   
6. Heat Shrink Tubing
   
   http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...1#post27931161
   
   
   
7. Anodized Metal Clips
   
   http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...3#post27191313
   Made of durable aluminum. Easily snaps on seatbelt guide. Available in two finishes: Black Annodized $45 or High gloss $55 includes shipping (last known prices... may be different now). Contact: Z3beltfix@hotmail.com Designed by a tool and die maker and a Z3 owner. Use if guide is broken or not yet broken.
   
8. Fixing via re-stitching side seam
   
   http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...at-belt-guides
   cutting the stitching in the seam by the guides to give access to do the job, then stitched it back up from the outside. It took about 1 1/2 hours per seat, working quietly and with patience
   
   
   

[thomas88162]

The one thing I have not experienced breaking on my car is the seat belt guides... They still feel quite sturdy, too! I don't know, guess I got the lucky batch? I keep putting off new leather because of it, too. I'm going to wait for them to give because I want to go the custom leather loop route.

[Kram71]

I know there's the OEM replacement via reskinning half the seat that's been covered in about a dozen DIY's and videos.

I was hoping to get a bunch of pictures of various alternate fixes, prevention, or replacements here.

Maybe this would be good to add to the manifesto? I see there's a bunch of similar posts, but nothing quite "clean" like is being done for the stereo thread.

I'll try to get us started.

1. Using nylon drywall anchors into an OEM setbelt Guide
   http://www.zroadster.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=15429
2. Nylon Wrap
   http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...-with-pictures
3. Metal Z brace
   http://www.zroadster.net/forum/viewt...hp?f=9&t=38769
   
4. Custom Leather Loop
   http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...at-belt-guides

Great thread. Mine are broke but I have not messed with them yet. I'm always looking to do things inexpensively so this thread saves me some search time.

[Mr Bingley]

It's just a theory, but think that the issue with seat belt guides arises upon adjusting the seat position forward and the belt locking--the belt will pull the guide until it breaks. I unhook my belts from the guides whenever I reposition the seats (which I only do to work on them--otherwise they stay in the full back position--I've never had a passenger try to move her seat forward).

[gtwhimself]

Sorry, but replacing OEM is the way to go. It's a PITA, but keeps original. Check searches for insturvtions.

[thomas88162]

It's just a theory, but think that the issue with seat belt guides arises upon adjusting the seat position forward and the belt locking--the belt will pull the guide until it breaks. I unhook my belts from the guides whenever I reposition the seats (which I only do to work on them--otherwise they stay in the full back position--I've never had a passenger try to move her seat forward).

I couldn't agree with you more. I have found that several times, while trying to reposition my seat, the belt magically locks! I have always caught it before allowing the belt to do any damage, but I can only imagine how easy it would be to not think twice about it until you hear "snap".

[m34ever]

Black shrink tubing is the best way to go, super easy to do. Someone posted it on here awhile ago, and it was a great tip. I found the shrink tubing at a local electronics store.

[esses]

Black shrink tubing is the best way to go, super easy to do. Someone posted it on here awhile ago, and it was a great tip. I found the shrink tubing at a local electronics store.

Ohh that's a good one! Got a pic you can post up in here?

[cfmistry]

Only options #1 and 4 address replacing a broken guide, while they don't really fix the issue. I went with option #1, which also makes them easy to replace if they do break again. Fortunately since I'm careful with the belts I haven't had a problem.

[Tib]

It's just a theory, but think that the issue with seat belt guides arises upon adjusting the seat position forward and the belt locking--the belt will pull the guide until it breaks. I unhook my belts from the guides whenever I reposition the seats (which I only do to work on them--otherwise they stay in the full back position--I've never had a passenger try to move her seat forward).

I have to agree moving the seat forward with the belt hanging from the clip is what I think kills them. That is the only time mine come unsnapped.

[HeliHover]

I used CF wrap.

[BladeRunner919]

Another vote for heatshrink. Gives an almost invisible repair. I've had it on a broken guide for about 2 years and it works perfectly. Also have it on the unbroken one to provide extra support.

[Vintage42]

... Got a pic you can post up in here?

25 mm (1 inch) heat shrink tubing...

25mm 1.25%22 Heat Shrink.JPG

[m34ever]

Thanks for posting, my car is in a million pieces in the garage right now so couldn't grab a good picture last night. Exactly what mine looks like. Has held up great for probably 3-4 years now.

25 mm (1 inch) heat shrink tubing...

25mm 1.25%22 Heat Shrink.JPG

[BimmerBreaker]

The heat shrink may not be particularly beautiful IMO, but it sure as heck beats a broken guide. It doesn't look worse than any of the other fixes either. That's probably what I would do.

I do love the leather loop though. I wonder if someone could make it so we could remove the seatbelt guide without disassembling the seat, and then make a kit to install a leather loop like that? A man can dream...

[fiv]

There is also this one... This is on someone else's car but I also have a set and they are pretty nice. They are black anodized aluminum clips. Very small and work really well. They almost look like they are ment to be there from the beginning.



http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...3#post27191313

[esses]

Thanks guys. Updated the original post!

[felonious monk]

No info on where to buy/find the metal clip?

[amancuso]

Both of mine in the yellow Z broke at different times. I replaced both OEM style.

[BenFenner]

This thread makes me wonder what a broken one looks like.

And on a related note, adhesives are doing miracles these days.

[esses]

No info on where to buy/find the metal clip?

I searched the intertubes and wasn't able to find anything. From the link it looks like some retired guy was making them ... if anyone has a lead on where to get them, I'll happily update this thread with the info.

This thread makes me wonder what a broken one looks like.

And on a related note, adhesives are doing miracles these days.

I will post pics of both of mine today. Driver's side is snapped clean off and the adhesive eventually failed. The part that's left stabs me in the shoulder and hence my irrational fixation on the stupid seatbelt guide. The passenger side is broken but the adhesives on the nylon wrap are still holding it together.

[fiv]

I forgot to add his contact info. Here is the text copied directly from his PDF brochure. Not sure if the pricing is still current as I bought mine a while ago. His name is Peter. (I have no affiliation to him)


Text from Brochure:

Z3 Belt Fix
Made of durable aluminum. Easily snaps on seatbelt guide.

Will SAVE you hundreds of dollars on future labor and reupholstering costs of seats.

Precision design for a slick look and a tight fit.

Available in two finishes: Black Annodized $45 or High gloss $55 includes shipping

Z3beltfix@hotmail.com

Designed by a tool and die maker and a Z3 owner.
Use if guide is broken or not yet broken.

[esses]

Thanks fiv. Updated!

[felonious monk]

This thread makes me wonder what a broken one looks like.

And on a related note, adhesives are doing miracles these days.

I can take pictures tomorrow (by the time i get off work it will be dark). After 10 years of being careful, my driver's guide finally broke during a seat rail bushing install.

There is really not much to see. Using the already posted pictures as reference, these guides tend to break in half... the part that is right up against the side of the seats. They split right down the middle (parallel to axis of the car and to the outboard split portion of the guide). Hope I'm making sense? The day is dragging and my brain is down a few cylinders.

I've thought of using Superglue (the gel type) but any excess application would likely mess with the leather. Since I am running Wet Okole covers, I'll probably leave it until I have the time to pull the seat and fix it proper.

Oddly, Pelican parts has a step by step DIY on the replacement procedure. Came across it via Bing search.

[BenFenner]

Oh yah, that makes it much more complicated to glue if it's the backing portion that cracks. I thought it might be one of the tabs snapping off.