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Thread: So I replaced my M roadster clutch line today

  1. #101
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Scotts Valley, CA
    Posts
    230
    My Cars
    2000 Z3 M Coupe
    So, I got under there again. Analyzed where the port intersected the bore. 3 pumps of the pedal. Put it back on the road. Much better; I put the clutch stop back in. Thanks!
    Sold: 98 M3/4/5 Techno Violet
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    00 Z3 M Coupe: TC Kline SA, Vorshlag Camber Plates, 255/35/18(F), 295/30/18(R) on APEX ARC8's

  2. #102
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Panama City Beach
    Posts
    48
    My Cars
    1999 M Roadster
    I tackled this job this afternoon, installing a UUC clutch line on my 99 Roady.

    First off, thank you to all that contributed to the thread, especially the originator. As previously mentioned, the replacement made a night and day difference in the feel of my clutch. I had two issues, a very low friction point and very hard shifts after the car had been run for an hour or more. The car shifted fine when cold. My friction point is now close to half way up. I have not had a chance to drive for an extended period but I'm confident that the hard shifting.

    I won't go over the whole install but will mention a few points. I'm not a mechanic. If I played one on TV, my show would be cancelled after the first show or two. This job took me 2 hours, with my car on a lift. Removing the brake line from the hose was difficult. I was able to do it with the two wrenches but was unable to position them like Mr. Forbes mentioned. I got my line wrench on with the wrench handle facing forward. The 14mm wrench was facing aft. I found (after dropping the wrenches about 20 times) that I could get a hand up on the line wrench and break it free. I used a golf tee in the brake line while doing the bleeding.

    I did the line and slave bleeding on the bench. Once back on the car I did not have to bleed anymore, After hearing stories of the losing slave parts into the bell housing, I made sure to feel resistance when installing the slave back on the transmission. I lost very little fluid during the whole job, not even needing to top off.

    All told, It was the best $42 ($30 part and $12 bay rental) I've spent on a car in a long time!

  3. #103
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Tallahassee
    Posts
    891
    My Cars
    1998 Z3 M Roadster.
    So I was looking to replace the clutch linen on my M withthe non restricted version from a 3.0

    The line I selected was different from the one above on page 4.

    https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...e/21526753766/

    Was this just a waste? Chose the wrong 3.0 hose?

  4. #104
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Kent, Ohio
    Posts
    4,149
    My Cars
    1998 M Roadster
    Quote Originally Posted by magnetchief View Post
    So I was looking to replace the clutch linen on my M withthe non restricted version from a 3.0

    The line I selected was different from the one above on page 4.

    https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...e/21526753766/

    Was this just a waste? Chose the wrong 3.0 hose?
    Which post are you referring to on page 4?

  5. #105
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Tallahassee
    Posts
    891
    My Cars
    1998 Z3 M Roadster.

    So I replaced my M roadster clutch line today

    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Bingley View Post
    Which post are you referring to on page 4?
    Looks like I purchased the same hose as used in post #65

    So I should be good to go.
    Will sort it tomorrow.


    So it was easier than expected.
    Used a crows foot wrench and an extension to hold the hose whilst loosening the flair nut.

    Then removed the hose from the hard line to the slave.

    Swapped in the new hose.
    Let it bleed from the slave end.

    Tightened up.

    Clutch works beautifully now.
    No sticking when it warms up.

    A lot less effort needed to depress the pedal.

    The original hose was damaged. I guess it was ballooning out under pressure.




    Very happy.




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Last edited by magnetchief; 09-23-2018 at 05:51 PM.

  6. #106
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Location
    Northeast
    Posts
    357
    My Cars
    2001 M Roadster
    Nice thread. Thank you to all contributors.
    QQ. I just want to replace the clutch line without the slave cylinder. While I am no mechanic, I do have left and right arms and access to YouTube and this thread. Do I really need a “helper” pushing clutch pedal to pump all air out, or you think I can tackle this on myown?. I do not have a lift, but do have 4 jack stands and a creeper... also picked up rogue engineering replacement SS line for my 2001 M roadster.

  7. #107
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Location
    Plainfield Indiana
    Posts
    197
    My Cars
    1999 M Roadster
    You definitely need someone to pump the pedal if you don't have a pressure bleeder. Although, I did see someone in YouTube use an oil can and pump fluid through the nipple.

    Good luck

    Quote Originally Posted by DimrBimmer View Post
    Nice thread. Thank you to all contributors.
    QQ. I just want to replace the clutch line without the slave cylinder. While I am no mechanic, I do have left and right arms and access to YouTube and this thread. Do I really need a “helper” pushing clutch pedal to pump all air out, or you think I can tackle this on myown?. I do not have a lift, but do have 4 jack stands and a creeper... also picked up rogue engineering replacement SS line for my 2001 M roadster.

  8. #108
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Kent, Ohio
    Posts
    4,149
    My Cars
    1998 M Roadster
    If you read through this thread you will see two different techniques: the helper pump method and the bench bleed method. The bench bleed method is a one man job but you have to get it right the first time out or else get a big mess and still need a helper. I don't think I'd want to tackle this job lying on my back on a creeper--that just sounds miserable, but more power to you for giving it a try and good luck.

  9. #109
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Location
    Northeast
    Posts
    357
    My Cars
    2001 M Roadster
    Quote Originally Posted by SteveG66 View Post
    You definitely need someone to pump the pedal if you don't have a pressure bleeder. Although, I did see someone in YouTube use an oil can and pump fluid through the nipple.

    Good luck
    Would a brake line bleeder like this work?
    https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben...RoCTYoQAvD_BwE

  10. #110
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Location
    Plainfield Indiana
    Posts
    197
    My Cars
    1999 M Roadster
    There are guys(& ladies) much more skilled and knowledgeable than i, but I would think it would, hopefully someone with more experience will chime in. When we did mine, I was the pumper, so I can't say from actual experience how hard it is to bleed. We replaced the line in less than an hour.

    Quote Originally Posted by DimrBimmer View Post
    Would a brake line bleeder like this work?
    https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben...RoCTYoQAvD_BwE

  11. #111
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    tempe, az
    Posts
    1,121
    My Cars
    1998 Z3M, 1994 325i,
    Heat gun ..... was the only way to get my line off. I had tried all the suggestions in this thread. I was ready to try a hand grenade. With full arm strength, all wrenches just came off or slipped on hex. After heating the joint on HI with heat gun for about a minute, it came loose. It still needed some force, but not nearly what I had put on it before heating. I ended up just using a 9/16 open end, set against the car body, and a 7/16 / 3/8 open end with a long 3/8 extension in the 3/8 part.

  12. #112
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Location
    Houston, TX, USA
    Posts
    511
    My Cars
    1999 BMW Z3 Coupe 2.8
    gnarly dude. sounds like it was a battle. Why the SAE size wrenches?

  13. #113
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Kent, Ohio
    Posts
    4,149
    My Cars
    1998 M Roadster
    Quote Originally Posted by solimans View Post
    gnarly dude. sounds like it was a battle. Why the SAE size wrenches?

    9/16 = 14mm and 7/16 = 11mm. He used the 3/8 end of the 7/16|3/8 combination to receive a 3/8 extension, which is a clever trick--as is the heat gun in a location you can't use an open flame for heat. It is a particularly difficult spot to get to.

  14. #114
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Arida Zona
    Posts
    26,047
    My Cars
    z3
    Those are not exactly the same size though from SAE to metric, and those lines can be tight. I would imagine it would come off fine with the correct size wrenches. If its stripping, its the wrong size.

  15. #115
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    tempe, az
    Posts
    1,121
    My Cars
    1998 Z3M, 1994 325i,
    Quote Originally Posted by BimmerBreaker View Post
    Those are not exactly the same size though from SAE to metric, and those lines can be tight. I would imagine it would come off fine with the correct size wrenches. If its stripping, its the wrong size.
    7/16 =.437, 11mm = .433 .... 9/16=.562, 14mm=.551 ..... You are right, metric would make a diff. I took a 1/2 open end and ground it out to .562, but left a lip like a line wrench so it wouldn't slip off. That worked but it still would not come off without heat. I thought about taking it to your shop just to get that done. I would have done that before the hand grenade. I just wish I'd thought of the heat gun early on.

  16. #116
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Great Dismal Swamp
    Posts
    14,813
    My Cars
    E36/7 E36/8x2 E39/2 E46
    You will note the two slave sizes are 20.637mm and 22.225mm. In other words, 13/16" and 7/8". And this isn't the only place there is imperial fittings/fasteners in our cars.

    And no, I've never bothered to put a thread pitch gauge on the fitting to figure out whether it's 3/8" or 10mm.


    /.randy

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