So I replaced my M roadster clutch line today

[weenerdog]

So, I got under there again. Analyzed where the port intersected the bore. 3 pumps of the pedal. Put it back on the road. Much better; I put the clutch stop back in. Thanks!

[dghii]

I tackled this job this afternoon, installing a UUC clutch line on my 99 Roady.

First off, thank you to all that contributed to the thread, especially the originator. As previously mentioned, the replacement made a night and day difference in the feel of my clutch. I had two issues, a very low friction point and very hard shifts after the car had been run for an hour or more. The car shifted fine when cold. My friction point is now close to half way up. I have not had a chance to drive for an extended period but I'm confident that the hard shifting.

I won't go over the whole install but will mention a few points. I'm not a mechanic. If I played one on TV, my show would be cancelled after the first show or two. This job took me 2 hours, with my car on a lift. Removing the brake line from the hose was difficult. I was able to do it with the two wrenches but was unable to position them like Mr. Forbes mentioned. I got my line wrench on with the wrench handle facing forward. The 14mm wrench was facing aft. I found (after dropping the wrenches about 20 times) that I could get a hand up on the line wrench and break it free. I used a golf tee in the brake line while doing the bleeding.

I did the line and slave bleeding on the bench. Once back on the car I did not have to bleed anymore, After hearing stories of the losing slave parts into the bell housing, I made sure to feel resistance when installing the slave back on the transmission. I lost very little fluid during the whole job, not even needing to top off.

All told, It was the best $42 ($30 part and $12 bay rental) I've spent on a car in a long time!

[magnetchief]

So I was looking to replace the clutch linen on my M withthe non restricted version from a 3.0

The line I selected was different from the one above on page 4.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...e/21526753766/

Was this just a waste? Chose the wrong 3.0 hose?

[Mr Bingley]

So I was looking to replace the clutch linen on my M withthe non restricted version from a 3.0

The line I selected was different from the one above on page 4.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...e/21526753766/

Was this just a waste? Chose the wrong 3.0 hose?

Which post are you referring to on page 4?

[magnetchief]

Which post are you referring to on page 4?

Looks like I purchased the same hose as used in post #65

So I should be good to go.
Will sort it tomorrow.


So it was easier than expected.
Used a crows foot wrench and an extension to hold the hose whilst loosening the flair nut.

Then removed the hose from the hard line to the slave.

Swapped in the new hose.
Let it bleed from the slave end.

Tightened up.

Clutch works beautifully now.
No sticking when it warms up.

A lot less effort needed to depress the pedal.

The original hose was damaged. I guess it was ballooning out under pressure.




Very happy.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[DimrBimmer]

Nice thread. Thank you to all contributors.
QQ. I just want to replace the clutch line without the slave cylinder. While I am no mechanic, I do have left and right arms and access to YouTube and this thread. Do I really need a “helper” pushing clutch pedal to pump all air out, or you think I can tackle this on myown?. I do not have a lift, but do have 4 jack stands and a creeper... also picked up rogue engineering replacement SS line for my 2001 M roadster.

[SteveG66]

You definitely need someone to pump the pedal if you don't have a pressure bleeder. Although, I did see someone in YouTube use an oil can and pump fluid through the nipple.

Good luck

Nice thread. Thank you to all contributors.
QQ. I just want to replace the clutch line without the slave cylinder. While I am no mechanic, I do have left and right arms and access to YouTube and this thread. Do I really need a “helper” pushing clutch pedal to pump all air out, or you think I can tackle this on myown?. I do not have a lift, but do have 4 jack stands and a creeper... also picked up rogue engineering replacement SS line for my 2001 M roadster.

[Mr Bingley]

If you read through this thread you will see two different techniques: the helper pump method and the bench bleed method. The bench bleed method is a one man job but you have to get it right the first time out or else get a big mess and still need a helper. I don't think I'd want to tackle this job lying on my back on a creeper--that just sounds miserable, but more power to you for giving it a try and good luck.

[DimrBimmer]

You definitely need someone to pump the pedal if you don't have a pressure bleeder. Although, I did see someone in YouTube use an oil can and pump fluid through the nipple.

Good luck

Would a brake line bleeder like this work?
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben...RoCTYoQAvD_BwE

[SteveG66]

There are guys(& ladies) much more skilled and knowledgeable than i, but I would think it would, hopefully someone with more experience will chime in. When we did mine, I was the pumper, so I can't say from actual experience how hard it is to bleed. We replaced the line in less than an hour.

Would a brake line bleeder like this work?
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben...RoCTYoQAvD_BwE

[zellamay]

Heat gun ..... was the only way to get my line off. I had tried all the suggestions in this thread. I was ready to try a hand grenade. With full arm strength, all wrenches just came off or slipped on hex. After heating the joint on HI with heat gun for about a minute, it came loose. It still needed some force, but not nearly what I had put on it before heating. I ended up just using a 9/16 open end, set against the car body, and a 7/16 / 3/8 open end with a long 3/8 extension in the 3/8 part.

[solimans]

gnarly dude. sounds like it was a battle. Why the SAE size wrenches?

[Mr Bingley]

gnarly dude. sounds like it was a battle. Why the SAE size wrenches?

9/16 = 14mm and 7/16 = 11mm. He used the 3/8 end of the 7/16|3/8 combination to receive a 3/8 extension, which is a clever trick--as is the heat gun in a location you can't use an open flame for heat. It is a particularly difficult spot to get to.

[BimmerBreaker]

Those are not exactly the same size though from SAE to metric, and those lines can be tight. I would imagine it would come off fine with the correct size wrenches. If its stripping, its the wrong size.

[zellamay]

Those are not exactly the same size though from SAE to metric, and those lines can be tight. I would imagine it would come off fine with the correct size wrenches. If its stripping, its the wrong size.

7/16 =.437, 11mm = .433 .... 9/16=.562, 14mm=.551 ..... You are right, metric would make a diff. I took a 1/2 open end and ground it out to .562, but left a lip like a line wrench so it wouldn't slip off. That worked but it still would not come off without heat. I thought about taking it to your shop just to get that done. I would have done that before the hand grenade. I just wish I'd thought of the heat gun early on.

[rf900rkw]

You will note the two slave sizes are 20.637mm and 22.225mm. In other words, 13/16" and 7/8". And this isn't the only place there is imperial fittings/fasteners in our cars.

And no, I've never bothered to put a thread pitch gauge on the fitting to figure out whether it's 3/8" or 10mm.

[Trademark1]

A huge thank you to Ralph for this thread and particularly post 55. Way better than TIS/Bentley combined. I had some trepidation about replacing my slave cylinder and clutch line - but following this procedure had total success using a Rogue Engineering SS line (which retains the factory hard bendy bits).

Just a few comments/additions based on my experience.

- I would definitely follow the general order of operations in post 55 (which is a bit different than Bentley, etc.). I think it is way easier to deal with everything with the slave out of the transmission first. In fact, when you get to bleeding, if you are just under a Quick Jack like me, you can do the bleed from the side of the car and easily go back and forth to the pressure bleeding unit without going lizard mode under the car each time
- I marked pencil lines on workbench top (could have used paper) to show angle of removed slave and its hard lines so that I could match to my new assembly
- I made a home brew compression tool as well. Worked fine. If I made another I might use wing nuts on the outside, I would compress the plate against the piston by hand - then spin the nuts down to hold it. One thing implicit instructions that bears reminder - do not pressurize system until clamping device in place.
- I used these silicone plugs and caps for various line ends. Were cheap and helpful: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- per TIS supposed to put a dab of MoS2 grease on tip of piston rod before re-installing slave cylinder. They spec MollyKote Long Term 2. Available - but not super-readily and way expensive. I used some LiquiMoly Long-Life Grease that I expect is close enough. Probably any good MoS2 with sufficient tack OK. TIS also says to clean the lever inside - I looked w/ a mirror and it didn’t look bad, so I didn’t risk having part of whatever I would use to clean drop bits of itself in transmission.
56C159B0-0F3B-427D-9CC6-4F42524B23FC.jpg207A4732-947A-4079-B6BF-AFAF48FA654A.jpg

[Mr Bingley]

It's been 8 years since I wrote that post--I'm glad I did because all I remember about the job is that breaking the line free was quite the challenge, that and shooting the actuator rod across the shop in a stream of brake fluid before I figured out to compress the slave. Good point about the MoS2--I don't think I knew about that until you just said it. BMW sure loves them some expensive grease. I'm glad you found it helpful.

[crashgordan]

good read! good stuff!

about 2-3 hours into a drive, mine starts getting very difficult to shift. I have the SS line.

still unsure why but may need to tackle this.