Rogeezy's 1990 535iM Build Thread

[JesterMX6]

bash. it's what all the drifters do and seems to work well for them.

[stoney85]

Yep, it's how I have a 4" dump and cat converter and still manage a bit of ground clearance, passenger footwell isn't bashed in enough to even notice any difference.
Some more heat shielding though is required, the floor gets a bit toasty for them

[E38740iMD]

What is the best way to bash it. I was thinking a hammer but I don't know how that would work with the car slightly raised with a jack. Wish I had some sort of electric piston to simulate what would happen if a M62 or M20 jump timing

[JesterMX6]

yeah you might wanna rent an air hammer.

[E38740iMD]

Well, I tried this morning using a hammer to mash what incan in and cutting the collector right afterafter the runners turn to one. Leaving just enough to stoll be a 2" outlet. Fits a whole lot better and it mates to the head. Cylinder 6 needs a bit more to be flush but I thing when to tighten the nut. It'll mate up nice. So i won't be touching this till saterday and that's when I'll get to turn key. Hopefully timing is right as that's all that I'm afraid of

[E38740iMD]

Sorry for the late update.

I finally started the car on Saterday and it started right up and it's alive!!!!!!!!!. But it's too early to celebrate. I am having two issues with the car.

But first I want to give thanks to Jim (Demetk) for the help, understanding, and the importance of Tdc. Had to spend 6 hrs to go back in the system to set head and the crank in tdc. Thanks again Jim.

1. The car is still over heating, the upper radiator hose and water pump hose is not getting coolant. Same as before the engine tear down. I will check the coolant hoses for clogs tomarrow. I'm think the radiator is damaged as I'm thinking the radiator is not getting coolant.

2. The engine bogs under load or when the throttle body opens up. I'm thinking this is tps or afm issue. As this issue also happened before the engine tear down. On idle is perfect. So i dunno where to begin trouble shooting besides the two parts listed above.

I will drain my oil to see if coolant is in the oil pan. If so then I may have a internal leak/crack in the block. If not then I should have this car running smooth soon. I was able to drive it around the block one time...before it started to overheat.

Here is a video of what the bog u der load I'm talking about



- - - Updated - - -

It's hard to hear as the car is pretty dam loud

[E38740iMD]

Well a new tps, plugged in my o2 sensor, and swapped coil fixed the bog issue. Car drives sooooooo smooth, the power! Lol. Just need exhaust work and still figure out the overheating
I got it so the the car only over heats while idle. In motion/ driving it remains cool. May still have air trapped or something wrong with e fan. It takes too long to kick on. Will investigate

[E38740iMD]

I forgot to update. The car runs great. E fan works, no over heating, no bogging under load. (Bad tps and coil) And had muffler welded up. Love the new setup. And there's deff a difference in power. I will be updating this thread later for when it's time to lower the car. And to turbo the turbo ready engine I got

[E38740iMD]

Well been a while since I have updated. This thread but the car did get lowered a few months ago. With refinishing my style 19s...again

Some pics



Also added was a Racing Dynamics strut bar I got a nice deal on.

A 3.64LSD

And E32 735 M-Sport front sway bar. 1mm bigger than euro M5 track edition one.

I was about to dyno the car but I decided to wait until I install the last few parts in the winter storage area which is the 8lbs flywheel, xpipe, the miller maf. The maf I need to buy still.

Once I get around to installing these by the summer. I will post the dyno results here and begin the the scavenger hunt onto build up my turbo kit.

I'll check back in soon

[E38740iMD]

Well.

a long over due update so i will pick up were i left off. dam its almost been 4 years

since then i had a rear m bumper and alpina front spoiler added in the end of 2016. this took about 8 months renduring my car ugly pretty much the whole year. but after alot of b.s here it is




after the picture was taken i was in an accident because of another driver which lead to some damaged body parts

luckily my Alpina bumper, m5 rear bumper wasn't damaged and the drivers side m5 sides kits somehow just got a small scratch. But the front drivers side Mpar has a few scratches and the rear Mpar got a lot of scratches and marks. Sad



this happened on the 31 of January 2017



i have been played with by 3 painters... so over 2 years my car was looking like this through the times

1 painter had the car for 18 months. i took the car back because he was working on every one elses car except mine and mine was there first

this was in OCT. 2018

[E38740iMD]

at this point a part out was in order. 2nd paint guy didnt do anything and suffered water damage to my m5 seats...now they are harder than concrete. i still had a connection with the car so i sent it to one more painter before i really parted the car.

Of course after 10 weeks there was no progress and i was getting irritated. but around March 2019 there was finally some progress.





















the car is now ready for pick up. but i told them to re work on it because i requested the chrome trim to be black






went back 2 weeks later to pick up and pay:

[E38740iMD]

Next was to assemble the car back to it glory.

but first i needed to pick up where i left off. install these e39 Meagan Racing Coil overs!!!!!!!! ( given for free from my brother. as he upgraded from a e39 525i to a 2003 540iMsport.)

first i cut the strut and test fitted them to see if it would worK



then i went to see if the e39 shock would slide in



this bracket threads on the shock. this will be used to couple the e34 strut tube and e39 shock together







pic of the e39 shock all the way in the e34 strut in comparison the stock e34 strut





time to get started

pick of the welded coil over and my previous setup. ( bilstens on vogtlands)





that same bracket was expanded larger to slide over the e34 strut. and welded at the bottom. there is no play inside the strut so there is no movement at all since it EXACTLY FITS inside. this is good for structural rigidity.


Please Note to Reuse the e34 front Top Hats.

old set up for sale




rears are Bolt on. i had to make the hole of the rear strut mount larger so the shock would go through it. as the rear strut shaft on the e39 is larger. no pics hear but its pretty straight forward

[E38740iMD]

Sorry for the large images. not quite sure how that happened.

any way i reassembled the whole car. the rear coil over from the E39 are on as well. just have to reuse your rear strut mount. note you may need to make the size of the strut mount larger for the rear. i had to and i just used a drill press to accomplish this. no pics unfortunately but its pretty strait forward.

i installed new head light glass lens, redid all the trim in flat black. secure the side skirts. install the side moldings. installed " Subie" Horns. installed my Mpars and here is the result.

[E38740iMD]

to anyone that still follow the forums and havent went to the facebook page



Car Suddenly turned off on its own about 4 weeks ago. ok. so i towed it home. looks like 2 rockers were broken but was still able to tap the valves. this kind of explains why my car didnt rev past 5krpm.






also timing chain guide was broken. and fell into the pan. this also prolly cause my low pressure issue ive had for a while.

hd rockers are on the way and the turbo build will start now. but i will start to assemble, dissemble some things.

pics of the vehicle in question.


























more to come!!!!!!!

[E38740iMD]

Removed the head to see a surprise. now i know why my engine was seized.









this happened on cylinder six. so after this weekend i will choose what head to buy so i can continue

p.s i will now fix the image links now i know the issue in the last 4 post

[E38740iMD]

so ive have been looking at a few heads the last few days. and narrowed down to 2 cars


the first one was from a 89 735il auto. i was thinking maybe a auto car would be the better car to get the head until i saw under the valvecover








this was was super brown and missing a Banjo Bolt! :eek

then i saw this one! from an e34








so this one will be here prolly by the end of this week. and send to the machine shop to be cleaned pressure tested and resurfaced


then back to the Build! (will actually change the oil sprayer bolts as well.



quick question....would the thick ass 20w-50 oil be good to use on this turbo??????

[E38740iMD]

a little update

pic of parts on its way to the machine shop



while i wait for head work from the machine shop.

i should get started on some things.

first was to clean the accessories:


























then to work on the lower timing chain seal, gaskets and guides





















next to remove the ac system. plan is to install a smaller ac condenser and sanden 508 ac compressor with demetks brackets









btw if you want Rocker Locks for the low just buy 5/8" collar shafts as it is the same as the m10/m30 rocker locks companies sell. its made of steel so its strong. part number of them is SC062D





Cleaned the car to keep the paint fresh






Got an ACT Clutch kit











And lastly upon further inspection i beleive all this damage was from not properly setting the timing on this engine.. all my original pistons has the gashes on them i thought it wwas normal but i looked on my newish block and they re not present. so i looked on the valves that i posted in these thread the they all have a tap on them. so when i did timing back in 2014 i gues i was hair or slack of and it was tapping the pistons allllllllll this time. maybe thats why the valve broke on one and the rockers broke. who knows i will try to time it better this time...







til next time!

[E38740iMD]

small update:

no cylinder head yet. so i started to assemble the block some more






starter i installed on the seized engine was used for one turn key. that was when i didnt know it was seized yet. so i was just going to use in on my new engine

well.......



looks like a non turning engine will kill a starter instantly! no worries. life time warranty so i got a new one the next day. however it did damaged my e28 m5 flwheel just a bit. just one tooth is broken. i may send it. people say it wont be an issue since we dont use the flywheel to detect timing on the B35

removed the exhaust







beginning on setting up my new ac setup









a/ccompressor will be installed soon with oil filter and starter. then will begine ro remove engine and make room for intercooler.

swear i will never do all this work again. next car will be some thing new like a f10 m5 or f10 535i. this all better work out lol

and lastly here is the exhaust mock i will be doing to this car

i made a mistake and didnt attached the ground wire when i scaled the image out but will fix this tomarrow. same with the vibrant muffler line but you guys get the idea

[E38740iMD]

small update:

still no cylinder head... i am starting to get bored and pissed at this moment. doesnt take 30 days to pressure check and clean a head. was quoted 7 business days and it been close o 30 days

anyway









i have been thinking of doing a bigger throttle body

the stock m30 tb is kinda small imo as its not 3" inside diameter for air flow

a bored out tb is still small and pricey for a small gain by itself.

i started looking into bmw parts bin but obviously nothing was compatible or worth using

looked into ls tbs. but there are too big (86-96mm)

then looked int Honda k swap tbs.

right size and similar bolt pattern but 300 plus bucks!

then i said maybe tbs from the same year or era of car manufacturing of the industry at the time would be a better search and i found something promising

A tb from a 96 mustang for 35 bucks new, polished, 75mm (2.95 inches airflow diameter). so i bought and lets see what i can do!

pics old m30 throttle body










pics of mustang tb








comparison



mustang tb had a thin rod for the tps which wont work for bmw





but with this piece it should remedy the situation





now the factory m30 tps will go on the mustang tb.







as you can see the orientaion of the half circle is 90 degrees off. so cutting the adapter peive to for a "+" will remedy the situation.


the bolt holes dont line up but a simple drill/ tap takes care of that.

it may be possible to swap the linkage over to keep the factory throttle cable and cruise control. ill confirm this later


also made room for my 31" wide intercooler by removing the beam below the radiator/condensor












after intercooler is installed i will install a support beam in case it was needed for structural integrity. mostly like a honda strut bar bolt to the fram since they are cheap. the thing is flimsy so i dont know why its there anyway.

more to come!

[E38740iMD]

finally got the engine removed last night






will clean it up and remove all the dirt ant paint dust that got in.



and i will clean these up for future use. if your gonna make a car fast. need to stop it fast too!!

[mostly amazing]

This build is really amazing. I think I shed a tear for everyone in post #63. And then died a little in post #64. Looking forward to seeing how the mustang throttle body works out, and I am interested in the new ac unit install.

Keep at it!

[E38740iMD]

Thanks! Yea when the valve dropped I only drove it for 2 days prior. Which I waited years for paint and body work. Kinda bitter sweet, but at least after all this I wont be nodding this car for quite a while. The build would dam near be complete

[E38740iMD]

small update: cleaned engine bay.

8.5 lb fly wheel is to me in possession when i get back from new york this weekend. and then will install the short block assembled with the clutch and flywheel on. got brakes situated the way i want them.

as for the machine shop i will be calling today. 7-8 weeks and subliminal service and no head in my hands. if there is no reall update i will try to get the head back and get the work done eslewhere. im over it. this was supposed to be a 3 week build. not 3 years

[E38740iMD]

well

Head is here and so if the flywheel.

i had to use my original head as the one i was very warped and unusable. the head passed the pressure test but had cracks behind the valve seats and then began to spread on most cylinder sections.

so i used the one i had with the damage and had it repaired and installed new seals, hd rockers with the rocker locks

also new flywheel came in. now i can go ahead and get started with the rest of the build with real updates. already ordered a new mls gasket as i my head height is at 128.4mm. need to order thick one as my current one would be considered too thin.

also will need new valve cover rods why they didn't remove from the old one i have no idea.

[E38740iMD]

made some progress yesterday. still need ensure my oil supply wont leak. one of the fitting isnt threading all the way so i need to see why and use teflon tape as a precaution. next is to install injector rail and injectors, over the weekend should be doing the clutch and flywheel