what year volvo 850 does the correct fan and shroud come off of?
The war chip just utilises the stock ECUs abilities and allows you to adjust them.
No provision for more outputs like individual injector control or wasted spark. That would be nice though.
the correct year could be any mid 90's 850. Problem is the one I got at first is from a 96. The fan is the same but the shroud was diffrent. So i looked in all volvo in the yards til I found the fan shroud that hovers over the radiator. But I beleive the one I got the second shroud was from a 92 850. I'd just peep around for the parts. Should be easy
- - - Updated - - -
I see. That I guess the war chip is only useful for those building a Bad ass N/A M30.
- - - Updated - - -
Also I may be getting a JBR single Mass flywheel on friday. At a whopping 8.5lbs. So I'll be selling my E28 M5 flywheel after install..
I got one of those also.
It fit just right on the the green machine.
Currently, I'm using it on high speed with a simple fan controller.
When I get a chance I'll install this controller that was presented by another member here.
It's temp readings are surprisingly very accurate.
cheers
- - - Updated - - -
BTW, can you recommend some type of alarm circuit that will sound off when the fan is triggered but doesn't spin? I've got the aux fan wired as backup with the e36 dual temp switch but it would be nice to be warned of a fan failure.
demet
Could install a magnet on one of the fans and put a half effect sensor on the shroud. If no magnetic sense a signal could be sent to an alarm. That's my guess
- - - Updated - - -
Yea i say that thread but I wouldn't know where to put it in the cabin
Last edited by E38740iMD; 09-24-2014 at 11:36 PM.
Last edited by E38740iMD; 09-25-2014 at 03:26 PM.
Last edited by E38740iMD; 09-30-2014 at 11:15 AM.
lookin good. did you find that air filter housing (the one with the filter inside, but couple on both ends) online or was it something you made? I'm looking for something similar for mine.
13 Grand Cherokee Limited V8 - Daily Driver - Wife
97 Z3 2.8 Roadster
95 325i Sedan - Project #ebayE36
90 BMW 535i/5 - i should probably work on this again...
Something I purchased online. Appearently is loved by the e30 crowd.....maybe 10 years ago . About 2 sellers on ebay has these for about $100...but I said that's too much for a air filter but the concept is spot on this design could prevent heat soak if done right. If you continue to search online China has the copies and sell if for cheaper. I got mine for 39.99 shipped.
I'll a few links later on today
that's perfect. can't wait.
13 Grand Cherokee Limited V8 - Daily Driver - Wife
97 Z3 2.8 Roadster
95 325i Sedan - Project #ebayE36
90 BMW 535i/5 - i should probably work on this again...
Here you go.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-E30-E36-...d8dfc9&vxp=mtr
The price for this one is 120. Made by KA Motors. The one I have looks just like it without the brand title on the intake. They both are 3" inlet/outlet so I dont know why someone would pay 80-100 dollars more for a printed name and some intake duct with some clamps.
And this is the one I bought.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/131158092815...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
seems like I actually paid 45 for it
Hope this helps and adds to your turbo adventure
some people get up in arms about buying knock off items because they're not supporting the original creator. I think that's what free trade is all about.
thanks for the links!
13 Grand Cherokee Limited V8 - Daily Driver - Wife
97 Z3 2.8 Roadster
95 325i Sedan - Project #ebayE36
90 BMW 535i/5 - i should probably work on this again...
Thank the lord for free trade.Not sure why, As I beleive KA Motors prolly branded this product and maybe this filter just had been on the market for quite some time. Who knows. This item plus velocity stack intake would be a major upgrade. If only I had a maf
I'm wrapping my intake with exhaust wrap to prevent the pipes from getting to hot from the headers. I chose to wrap the intake compared to the headers as I'm afraid the header wrap will kill my expensive headers
i wouldn't suggest wrapping it with header wrap. you'll be better off with a sheet metal heat shield that isolates it from the engine bay. header wrap is designed to keep heat in, not away.
13 Grand Cherokee Limited V8 - Daily Driver - Wife
97 Z3 2.8 Roadster
95 325i Sedan - Project #ebayE36
90 BMW 535i/5 - i should probably work on this again...
This looks interesting
"Big Red" 9/88 Build 535i/5: E.A.T. Chip, 24lb Bosch Design III, 3.46 LSD, 4x Clear corners, DINAN-style 750i muffler, Racing King Subframe Inserts, Koni/Vogtland suspension, E34 M5 swaybars, Brembo/Porterfield brakes, Turbodiesel grills, 16" Style 8 rims, Euro front plate, M5 rear filler plate.SaveSave
A sheet metal heat shield done properly will reflect more heat away from the intake than it will allow in. As long as the metal is not right up against the intake, this should work just fine. Add gold foil to the outer face of said heat shield for maximum dazzle effect.
"Big Red" 9/88 Build 535i/5: E.A.T. Chip, 24lb Bosch Design III, 3.46 LSD, 4x Clear corners, DINAN-style 750i muffler, Racing King Subframe Inserts, Koni/Vogtland suspension, E34 M5 swaybars, Brembo/Porterfield brakes, Turbodiesel grills, 16" Style 8 rims, Euro front plate, M5 rear filler plate.SaveSave
have a link of a good sheet metal head sheild I could use. If so the gild foil will make an appearance.
Also how does your car run on 24 lb fuel injectors?. Those usually don't work right with a generally stock m30 motor
- - - Updated - - -
P.s. where does one find some gold foil. Hard to find and the one place I did find wanted $22 for a 12'x12' :eek. Is it really that much
- - - Updated - - -
Another update:
I am about 93% done with the volvo fan wiring. Here is what I did.
Ran 8 gauge from the battery terminal to the 40a circuit breaker. Than 10 gauge from the terminal to the relay box
Mounted the relay box behind the drivers headligh/lower inn wheel well
ran signal wires to the new e36 318i temp switch. Some how I forgot to order the molex plug for it...so in will hit up the yards for a plug. No time to wait.
lengthend the wire for the actual fan to reach the relay box.
wire routing and looming brought to you by MECP. Making wires of a project look oem.
Tomarrow I will be tearing part the engine. It was suppos ed to be next saterday but I somehow gor this weekend off so might as well do it now. Haven't been able to fix my exhaust pinches yet. So we will I will come up in the meantime
"Big Red" 9/88 Build 535i/5: E.A.T. Chip, 24lb Bosch Design III, 3.46 LSD, 4x Clear corners, DINAN-style 750i muffler, Racing King Subframe Inserts, Koni/Vogtland suspension, E34 M5 swaybars, Brembo/Porterfield brakes, Turbodiesel grills, 16" Style 8 rims, Euro front plate, M5 rear filler plate.SaveSave
Update!!!
Got the new top end on. The head removal was easy as pie. Exhaust studs broke off on the old head and some in manifold. Even though I pb blasted the crud out of it for 3 days prior to removal . The reason for rough running was a blown...super blown head gasket. When I removed the oil drain plug. Coolant drained for about 10 seconds and then a mix of coolant and oil, and all old oil. The car sat for about 2 months so the oils and coolant just seperate in the oil pan .
I have all parts reassembled and ready to turn key. But the bavauto headers and having clearence issues in the e34 chassis , I knew this was going to happen. The exhaust is always a hamper for me... so I will have to rig the exhaust up to clear the frame and firewall. I thinks it's doable. I also cleaned up the engine from the coolant cemetery. Once the headers are on I can try to start the car to see if all works
Anyway on with the pics
Buddy came by to help
Obvious to see where the gasket failed. Half way done.
removed the whole exhaust
Had to do some cutting of the down pipes so might as well removed the whole thing. That y - pipe in the mid-season was causing too much back pressure. Glad it's out to do a true dual system.
Partial assembled
At this point all I had to do was make the intake fit. Plug in spark plug wires, and figure out exhaust clearance issue.
as of now the engine bay has been cleaned up a bit more since the last pic. I'll post pics of the engine when I am completely done.
Last edited by E38740iMD; 10-05-2014 at 09:42 PM.
So heres my issue. The collector is just hitting the underbody of the car. So the collector needs to be modified as in cut and reroute the pipes a bit, or bash the body and the area of the problem so the collector don't rub on anything. Haven't decided which to do yet. What do you guys think? If anyone is reading
I'm leaning towards the bash method and re coating the underbody with some rust protectant. It looks as even if I cut the collector tip it may still hit the Frame because the headers are nor full seated on the head yet. . I want these on so I could see if the car could start and operate properly
Bookmarks