1996 332IS
Built 3.2
CES/Steed TS Precision 6466, spraying a "$π!℅" load of meth.
Technique Tuning 80# tune.
1/4 mile 10.84 @ 136.72
Your 1 and only stop for all your BMW performance needs
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is that why i used to see all the muscle cars back in the day with a raised ass air shocks all the way pumped up?
Thanks for sharing coilovers it is. maybe get some 19s with a tall tire.
but basically the stiffer the better?
Good write up, thanks, now all I have to do is tube frame the car with adjustable suspension mounting points if I want to go fast.....
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'97 M3, Estoril blue, 2 dr, euro 6-spd, EFR 9180 divided T4 .92 IWG, RK tuning, CP 8.5:1 pistons, Eagle rods, Schrick cams, L19 11 mm ARP studs, O-ringed block, Supertech stainless/inconel valves, Supertech springs & Ti retainers, ported head, S54 oil pump/pan, 80 lb. injectors, OBD1 intake manifold, Steedspeed twin scroll T4, 3.5" SS exhaust, eBoost2 EBC, HFS-4 W/M injection, AEM Failsafe, Zeitronix data logger, Racelogic TC, OpenOBC w. ethanol %, Ireland Eng. engine mounts, UUC black tranny mounts w. enforcers, UUC twin disc feramic, ARC-8's, MCS 2-ways, Z3 rack, Rallyroad strut bar, X brace, Eibach sway bars, Ground Control LCAB bushings, Bimmerworld RTAB's, Powerflex subframe bushings, 210 4-clutch LSD, Stoptech BBK, titainium shims, steel braided lines, brake cooling ducts.
Be a lot cooler if you did. If you know what's wrong with it you can at least take steps to make it less wrong. For example even if you had it set up the way you want alignment wise for handling, but were going drag racing on a weekend crank up the coilovers an inch in the back and turn up the compression side of the shock. That would take camber out, increase anti squat, and keep it from caming over the trailing arms on the launch.
The difference between those two launches I showed in slow motion was lowering the front of the lower 4 link bars 1 hole and loosening the shocks two clicks. Small changes to instant center make a big difference. I later put it back to up one hole again and the car wheelied so hard it almost went on the back bumper.
oh and since I haven't said it yet, IRS sucks, live axles are better
This is great info. I had my alignment setup per this thread but I have stock springs and konis out back so that’s pretty much killing my alignment when I try to put 700+wtq through it..got it. Anyone make stiffer springs for the back that aren’t physically shorter also?
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1995 M3 - Forged 9.8:1 2JZ, S366, MS3x, E85, LQ9s, 420g/PMC Motorsport kit, 4 clutch 3.15 LSD Large Case 757whp/710wtq
2011 X5 Xdrive35d- Blk on Cinnamon, Towing Pkg, Heat Pkg., etc..the tow rig/DD!
“Making it work” is a relative term. I made small changes (spring rate and alignment specs) and my car went bottom 1.4 60ft a million times and 1.38 a handful of times.
considering the average good 60ft in this sub forum is a 1.5x, then I guess you could say my car worked, but to me it was far from working good.
my point is that if you wanna go 1.1 60ft, then yea, this suspension sucks.
but if you want a car that drives well and launches decent, this suspension is good.
i wrote on all my suspension components what I’d need to do to put it back to a normal alignment. I could switch from the goofy drag alignment to street alignment in less then 15minutes, including a spring swap.
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That was before my car turned into a yard sale in the middle of the highway, of course
328i Sedan Twin s366's, 6.0LS, TH400, MS3 Ultimate
9.20 at 150 on 22psi
this needs to be bumped because its hands down some of the most useful info in this forum.
328i Sedan Twin s366's, 6.0LS, TH400, MS3 Ultimate
9.20 at 150 on 22psi
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