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Thread: Any source for Out put shaft differential torx bolts PN#33211227279

  1. #1
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    Smile Any source for Out put shaft differential torx bolts PN#33211227279

    Hi,

    If any body has any of these torx bolts, new, perhaps leftover from a diff swap and just "lying around", I would be interested in buying them from you. New, they range in price from abt 7 to 12 USD a piece ! Getting ready to swap out my differential.

    Thanks!

    Scott
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    I have no non-torx versions laying around new from BMW. I bought these for a diff swap I never did. As Olin pointed out in his excellent swap how to thread, the ss part number is the non torx version.
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    I went this route a couple weeks ago and ended buying new 10.9 allen headed screws at a hardware store ( 0,55€ each.. )...

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    Quote Originally Posted by toomanyparts View Post
    I have no non-torx versions laying around new from BMW. I bought these for a diff swap I never did. As Olin pointed out in his excellent swap how to thread, the ss part number is the non torx version.
    I have read Olin's excellent thread but I must have missed something! The only thing I do not have (besides brains ) is money and the Torx bolts!

    What is the "ss part number" that you are referring to?

    So, are you saying that you have 12 new non torx versions of the bolts and that you would like to sell them? Thanks for clarifying!

    - - - Updated - - -

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by dudu850 View Post
    I went this route a couple weeks ago and ended buying new 10.9 allen headed screws at a hardware store ( 0,55 each.. )...
    Thanks I will look into this!
    Last edited by acheson850i; 08-12-2014 at 02:15 AM.
    1957 MB 190SL
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    +1 on 10.9 allen bolts.

    I actually used bumax109 stainless bolts. Equivalent to 10.9 but will never rust.

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    Quote Originally Posted by affa View Post
    +1 on 10.9 allen bolts.

    I actually used bumax109 stainless bolts. Equivalent to 10.9 but will never rust.
    I guess my question is if they are heat treated the same way as the OEM versions? I know this matters for studs on the heads and so forth.

    I know this is posted on Ebay, but it is still a good read. http://www.ebay.com/gds/Stainless-Bo...1623345/g.html

    - - - Updated - - -


    I messed up, you are already using the right part number of 33211227279. I do indeed have 12 of them that I am willing to part with. I paid $9.52 a piece at a discount dealer. ECStuning has them in a pack of 15 for $162.60. I would be happy to get of them for close to what I paid.
    Quote Originally Posted by acheson850i View Post
    I have read Olin's excellent thread but I must have missed something! The only thing I do not have (besides brains ) is money and the Torx bolts!

    What is the "ss part number" that you are referring to?

    So, are you saying that you have 12 new non torx versions of the bolts and that you would like to sell them? Thanks for clarifying!

    - - - Updated - - -

    - - - Updated - - -



    Thanks I will look into this!
    Last edited by toomanyparts; 08-12-2014 at 06:47 PM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by affa View Post
    +1 on 10.9 allen bolts.

    I actually used bumax109 stainless bolts. Equivalent to 10.9 but will never rust.
    The bolts sold on the EBAY link posted earlier end with the term "NS3 Coat." I am not a metallurgist but I believe this may refer to "Nickel-silver" which is not actually Nickel or Silver. Wikipedia is amazing. I know more about ASTM standards for bolts and nuts than I ever cared to know about! Worst thing that could happen with 10.9 grade that were not coated is they would rust a lot more quickly than the coated bolts. I'll checkout the bumax109 bolts. They maybe equivalent. 7 bucks a bolt ain't too bad for bolts that would appear to meet OEM spec.
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    The bumax stuff are very good, typically used for offshore drilling, ocean racing, paper mills and generally harsh environments. The 88 line is equivalent to metric 8.8 and the 109 for the 10.9.

    Assuming quality production and certification, and that's a big assumption, 10.9 is 10.9 is 10.9. It's a metallurgical rating. For our usage the only differences are in the plating if applied. Obviously I'm simplifying in regards to thread fit, etc

    Cadmium is generally best but now banned unless you're in aerospace or military. Aluminum alloy cladded ones are the next best thing but hard to find in retail quantities.

    That leaves us zinc, which is pretty good. Go for yellow zinc, slightly better than clear zinc.

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    Any aftermarket source? BMW is asking for too much with abt. $17/piece torx screw M10X50, OE Numbers 33211227279, old # 33211227073
    Non torx version would also be no problem as long as the size and the metallurgical rating is same/similar, also the color = zinc coated would be o.k.
    In German they call them RIPP-Schrauben , Flanschschrauben mit Sperr-Rippen unter dem Flansch.

    These original BMW bolts in that size are no longer available in the market and what is on the market is remaining stock, and that is why the prices are so high.
    So we have to buy aftermarket, there are bolts available in these sizes but usually without these lock ribs = Sperr - Rippen under the head. That is in general no problem if we use lock washers. Torx or hex head does not matter.
    Last edited by shogun; 09-14-2016 at 05:33 AM.
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    My 2c...

    It depends on what the owner wants to achieve....

    1. If the owner just want to make it safe and make it work, I have no issue reusing the bolts if they are not "too chewy". Fact is the factory directions are there to achieve service quality parity amongst dealerships with mechanics of varying degrees of skill and care (and dare I say intelligence). Looking at the factory torque spec the fasteners are nowhere near TTY so the only reason to specify replacement is because the factory new bolts are "micro encapsulated" i.e. pre-applied Loctite. So if one follows good practice, clean the threads on both sides and use the proper Loctite, I don't see an issues. COUNTLESS vehicles are on the streets with reused bolts for the same reason.

    1.1 If the bolts are chewed up, an identically graded bolt (e.g. 10.9) of non-suspect origin/supplier is fine. Many studies have conclusively proven with exception of nord lock, pretty much all mechanical thread locking mechanisms are junk so don't waste time looking for the unicorn serrated bolts, trust in Loctite. The sh1t took us to the moon and back, its good enough for you.

    2. You are a "concourse" guy - good luck looking for and paying OE bolts. If you have a deep pocket you can always commission a batch from kamax, boesner, verbus or other quality manufacturers etc.

    3. You're a some is good, more is better and too much is just enough kind of overkill guy - Use bumax109, nord lock and Loctite. Guaranteed to outlast you.

    If you're in the US finding decent metric fasteners could be a pain. Fastenal is ok but no where as nice as McMaster-carr(*) stuff. also heard good things from bel-metric.

    (*) Used to order from them until they changed their policy and decided everyone outside (or suspected to be outside) of USA are terrorists and will not take your order (yeah seriously).

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    A normal hex bolt will not fit properly, here shown on an E32 750 driveshaft posted on a German E32 forum
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    I cleaned the existing bolts, lightly wire brush them, degreaser and gave them to the player to give them a #2 zinc plating (yellow). I did this with ALL the bolts and nuts and washers in the rear end (suspension & diff). The whole bunch cost me $30 - far less than getting all new OEM and they all had a good consistent coating, which is not always the case from BMW OEM fasteners.
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    Nice. I do the same if the fasteners are "salvageable" i.e. not pitted heavily. Platers generally caustic and acid dip to strip and de-rust before plating anyway so you may want to ask and save yourself some elbow grease. However, I get the best results if I bead blast the fasteners myself first.

    In any case, it depends on the plater (I guess its much better in US and Europe), in HK and Australia the platers that I have access to (i.e. that will do odd and job lots) just give me dumb looks when I ask about hydrogen embrittlement and a post-plate bake.... so I only tend to recycle fasteners that won't see any stress. anything that actually need tensile strength I get new.

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    2. You are a "concourse" guy - good luck looking for and paying OE bolts. If you have a deep pocket you can always commission a batch from kamax, boesner, verbus or other quality manufacturers etc.

    http://www.allensfasteners.com
    Great quality direct replacement bolts
    Last edited by dragon850; 09-15-2016 at 11:52 AM.

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    I'd put those under category 1....

    from shogun's info the factory bolts he was talking about are e-trox with serration under the flange as mechanical lock.

    Unless you run into some surplus stock you'll be looking at a pretty large MOQ...

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    Affa, would you post a link for the source of the Bumax109 allen bolts. Anybody know if there is anything that tough in the titanium world? Talk about a concours guy. Sheesh.

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    Quote Originally Posted by garylafortuna View Post
    Affa, would you post a link for the source of the Bumax109 allen bolts. Anybody know if there is anything that tough in the titanium world? Talk about a concours guy. Sheesh.
    Evidently specialised metric fasteners is a niche market and a search of bumax in usa yielded very little. I guess all the American ocean racers, drilling rigs and paper mills only use imperial

    They ARE in usa however, www.bufab.com. Perhaps they can tell you who their stockists are.

    I got mine in Australia from RGA fasteners in Sydney so i am sorry i couldn't be of more help.

    Not too difficult to get in Europe and Japan, too.

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    Here we have something much cheaper, 2mm longer, BMW Torx Screw With Ribs (M10X52 Zns3) Chrome-free CR(VI)- Genuine BMW 26117526322 https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...t/26117526322/
    Price each: $3.79 for example at FCP EURO http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/partxref?q=26117526322
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    Quote Originally Posted by shogun View Post
    Here we have something much cheaper, 2mm longer, BMW Torx Screw With Ribs (M10X52 Zns3) Chrome-free CR
    Yeah I'd save the trouble and jump on those.

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    Try ProBolt. Very reasonable prices.
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    Quote Originally Posted by shogun View Post
    Any aftermarket source? BMW is asking for too much with abt. $17/piece torx screw M10X50, OE Numbers 33211227279, old # 33211227073
    Non torx version would also be no problem as long as the size and the metallurgical rating is same/similar, also the color = zinc coated would be o.k.
    In German they call them RIPP-Schrauben , Flanschschrauben mit Sperr-Rippen unter dem Flansch.

    These original BMW bolts in that size are no longer available in the market and what is on the market is remaining stock, and that is why the prices are so high.
    So we have to buy aftermarket, there are bolts available in these sizes but usually without these lock ribs = Sperr - Rippen under the head. That is in general no problem if we use lock washers. Torx or hex head does not matter.
    Any idea what the torque of these bolts should be. I have seen everything from 60 Nm to 80Nm.

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    Quote Originally Posted by shogun View Post
    Here we have something much cheaper, 2mm longer, BMW Torx Screw With Ribs (M10X52 Zns3) Chrome-free CR(VI)- Genuine BMW 26117526322 https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...t/26117526322/
    Price each: $3.79 for example at FCP EURO http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/partxref?q=26117526322
    Very cool, thanks! Will try them on my next swap!

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    I am debating on ordering new cv bolts, either the 26117526322 or a socket head 12.9 plated bolt, if I dont reuse the original socket head bolts on the diff now. Any idea what grade the 26117526322 torx bolts are? Probably 10.9?

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    I have a set of 12 new in the bag MINI steering rack Cadmium plated bolts, part number 32106774042 for $60 shipped to Texas if you're interested. I had them for a diff swap but lost my 3.15 LSD diff in a trade deal. Don't feel like trying to source another at this point.

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