What did you buy for your e36 M3 this week v3.0

[jprottas]

Apparently, I ordered the wrong ignition coils off ebay. Are Bosch coils the only acceptable ones or is there a less expensive alternative?

Also bought: Behr BLOWER fan, Ngk plugs, cabin air filter, WHEEL liners, zkw fogs, Kenwood radio, Etc. Newbie starting to restore silver 1999 m3 e36 convertible.

Also agonizing over spending $700 from umnitza for zkw hid headlights as I have a $1000 new convert top expense coming right up. Cars in the shop so no pics today.

Glad to have found you guys. Thanks, Jeff

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[TostitoBandito]

Bremi and Bosch are both OEM for coils. For my car (build date 10/98, coupe), realOEM lists 12137599219 as the most current part number, and that's a Bremi coil. It says it superseded 12131748018 which I believe is an older Bosch coil. I think either would work.

At FCPEuro the Bremi (12137599219) is $46, or like twice as much if you care about the "genuine BMW" label. It comes with a boot. I think ECS also sells the Bosch coil (12131748018) for around the same price.

[jprottas]

Bremi and Bosch are both OEM for coils. For my car (build date 10/98, coupe), realOEM lists 12137599219 as the most current part number, and that's a Bremi coil. It says it superseded 12131748018 which I believe is an older Bosch coil. I think either would work.

At FCPEuro the Bremi (12137599219) is $46, or like twice as much if you care about the "genuine BMW" label. It comes with a boot. I think ECS also sells the Bosch coil (12131748018) for around the same price.

Are there strong reasons to stay with these oem coils for this replacement or can a guy getaway with a knock-off? Sorry for this newbie question but this stuff is adding up and I'm a superficial guy anxious to get on with the cosmetics like new lights and a top which has the rear glass that I can see thru. Thanks tositito

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[TostitoBandito]

Are there strong reasons to stay with these oem coils for this replacement or can a guy getaway with a knock-off? Sorry for this newbie question but this stuff is adding up and I'm a superficial guy anxious to get on with the cosmetics like new lights and a top which has the rear glass that I can see thru. Thanks tositito

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I would strongly encourage buying the $40-50 Bremi or Bosch OEM coils. You don't want coils to fail and have to limp around on half an engine, and the OEM's should last well over 100K miles (5/6 of mine are original). The cheaper Chinese knock-off parts may have fitment issues, and may also be unreliable. You typically get what you pay for in terms of European OEM (not BMW-branded) parts. There's no need to replace coils unless you've isolated one which isn't working, so only replace the coils you need to.

[jprottas]

I would strongly encourage buying the $40-50 Bremi or Bosch OEM coils. You don't want coils to fail and have to limp around on half an engine, and the OEM's should last well over 100K miles (5/6 of mine are original). The cheaper Chinese knock-off parts may have fitment issues, and may also be unreliable. You typically get what you pay for in terms of European OEM (not BMW-branded) parts. There's no need to replace coils unless you've isolated one which isn't working, so only replace the coils you need to.

Will do. My mechanic wants all 6 new ones but I'll take your advice and do it right with bosch.

I've read all the lighting posts and have decided to do that right also...with real kgw with hid rather than depos. Do you agree? Are angel eyes passe or still a good look?

With 120k miles what else should I be looking at for reliability?

Is there a better thread for these questions? I'm not only a newbie but an old guy too.



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[SyCK]

I've been doing a good bit of shopping the last couple of weeks. Our house is going on the market soon so it's time to get off my ass and finish what I started the tear down for a long time ago so I can actually drive it away and not have it towed. A good bit of these parts I'm replacing work perfectly fine but since I don't know how old they are or if they are factory BMW parts I'm doing it for peace of mind. Still need some things but my wife starting to get annoyed with all of the deliveries coming in so I'm going with work with what I have for now and order the rest in a couple of weeks.

Bosch coils and new securing nuts
Multiple copper braided aircraft grounding straps
Genuine BMW crank and cam sensors
Genuine BMW air temperature sensors (ambient and intake manifold)
Genuine BMW brake master fluid reservoir
Genuine BMW euro center console cup holder
Genuine BMW fan clutch delete nut
Genuine BMW oil pan gasket and bolts
Genuine BMW thermostat and gasket
Genuine BMW thermostat housing and gasket
Genuine BMW coolant hoses and clamps
Genuine BMW water pump o-ring for Stewart pump
Genuine BMW valve cover gasket kit and grommets
Genuine BMW intake and exhaust manifold gaskets
M Power oil cap
AR designs oil pan with -10 fitting welded on
Genuine BMW oil pan gasket with all new bolts
Sent off my Borg Warner compressor cover for machining to use a v-band 90 degree elbow
H&S Motorsports v-band 90 degree elbow
Boost leak tester made by Butters
Genuine BMW N54 manifold studs and copper nuts
Full-Race turbo M10 inconel stud kit
Dropped my 666 manifold off for ceramic coating
New AP Racing rotor rings and hardware made to order from Coleman Racing
Porterfield R4-S brake pads front and rear

The pan and housing/elbow aren't here yet but I took a pic of the rings when they landed yesterday.

[jprottas]

I've been doing a good bit of shopping the last couple of weeks. Our house is going on the market soon so it's time to get off my ass and finish what I started the tear down for a long time ago so I can actually drive it away and not have it towed. A good bit of these parts I'm replacing work perfectly fine but since I don't know how old they are or if they are factory BMW parts I'm doing it for peace of mind. Still need some things but my wife starting to get annoyed with all of the deliveries coming in so I'm going with work with what I have for now and order the rest in a couple of weeks.

Bosch coils and new securing nuts
Multiple copper braided aircraft grounding straps
Genuine BMW crank and cam sensors
Genuine BMW air temperature sensors (ambient and intake manifold)
Genuine BMW brake master fluid reservoir
Genuine BMW euro center console cup holder
Genuine BMW fan clutch delete nut
Genuine BMW oil pan gasket and bolts
Genuine BMW thermostat and gasket
Genuine BMW thermostat housing and gasket
Genuine BMW coolant hoses and clamps
Genuine BMW water pump o-ring for Stewart pump
Genuine BMW valve cover gasket kit and grommets
Genuine BMW intake and exhaust manifold gaskets
M Power oil cap
AR designs oil pan with -10 fitting welded on
Genuine BMW oil pan gasket with all new bolts
Sent off my Borg Warner compressor cover for machining to use a v-band 90 degree elbow
H&S Motorsports v-band 90 degree elbow
Boost leak tester made by Butters
Genuine BMW N54 manifold studs and copper nuts
Full-Race turbo M10 inconel stud kit
Dropped my 666 manifold off for ceramic coating
New AP Racing rotor rings and hardware made to order from Coleman Racing
Porterfield R4-S brake pads front and rear

The pan and housing/elbow aren't here yet but I took a pic of the rings when they landed yesterday.

Nice list. Wish I could move that fast. Can you tell me where to buy the euro cup holder? Thanks, Jeff

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[SyCK]

Nice list. Wish I could move that fast. Can you tell me where to buy the euro cup holder? Thanks, Jeff

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I bought it from ECS tuning.

[th3turk]

S54 oil filter housing so I can run a cooler!!


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[tvcasualty]

Ordered a square wheel and tire setup with Kumho Ecsta V720's in 245/40/17. Wheels are 17x9. I dont want to say what they are yet incase they dont fit or look like chit. A wheel ive never seen on a BMW. Best part they are flow formed and lightweight and half the price to my door compared to Apex and all the other popular wheels.

[Team Neverlift]

Sounds like Advanti or Konig?

Bring that M3 out to a Bimmer Challenge event. It's a time attack series in So Cal.

[tvcasualty]

^^ Bingo. Konigs.

Got them today they are getting mounted and balanced.... Gonna try to throw em on after I pick them up.

Are roll cages required for the Bimmer Challenge? Im not caged and prob not going to.

[Team Neverlift]

No, I don't have a cage, just a rollbar for my own personal safety.

All info came be found in the links here. https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...allenge-Series

[tvcasualty]

I read the entire rules. Still unclear to me whether a roll bar/cage is required or not...? Or if you have one they just want it built their way.

Got those wheels/tires on. They are Konig Ultraforms. 17x9 +34 offset. perfect fit for the BMW hub so no rings needed. After reading all the internet parroting I thought the rears would rub they dont at all fenders were already rolled figured i was gonna have to pull them. The fronts already had a 10mm spacer i tried to fit them without it but no dice. They rub pretty good gonna try to clearance them tomorrow may end up going to a 5 mm spacer.

Grabbed some chitty pics in the dark.....Im thinkin they look kinda good.

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[Team Neverlift]

In regards to roll bar or cage, not required. It is a "self tech" DE through Speed Ventures, that has a competition component to it. Standard HPDE rules apply. A safe maintained vehicle, a DOT helmet, closed toed shoes, secured battery, no leaking fluids, OEM 3 point belts, etc. The only type of restraint that requires the organizer to inspect is 4 point, due the safety concerns that the occupant could submarine under the belts. 5 point and 6 point harnesses address this issue. The rules do provide recommendations for tubing size per vehicle weight, but that's about it.

If you need a fender roll or pull, I can assist, but will be out of town Saturday for Bimmer Challenge.

Adding more negative camber is always a great option for fender clearance, & E36s respond well too more camber anyway. I DD -3.6 & -2.7 for example... and will be going -4 & -3 soon...

In regards to spacers, I personally only trust ones that are hub centric and provide a sufficient enough hub lip for the wheel... 10mm is questionable imo. I run a 12mm with 18x9.5 +35 wheels for example.

Are you running wheel studs, or any plans to upgrade from lug bolts?

[SyCK]

Picked up my 666 manifold from getting it ceramic coated

[tvcasualty]

In regards to roll bar or cage, not required. It is a "self tech" DE through Speed Ventures, that has a competition component to it. Standard HPDE rules apply. A safe maintained vehicle, a DOT helmet, closed toed shoes, secured battery, no leaking fluids, OEM 3 point belts, etc. The only type of restraint that requires the organizer to inspect is 4 point, due the safety concerns that the occupant could submarine under the belts. 5 point and 6 point harnesses address this issue. The rules do provide recommendations for tubing size per vehicle weight, but that's about it.

If you need a fender roll or pull, I can assist, but will be out of town Saturday for Bimmer Challenge.

Adding more negative camber is always a great option for fender clearance, & E36s respond well too more camber anyway. I DD -3.6 & -2.7 for example... and will be going -4 & -3 soon...

In regards to spacers, I personally only trust ones that are hub centric and provide a sufficient enough hub lip for the wheel... 10mm is questionable imo. I run a 12mm with 18x9.5 +35 wheels for example.

Are you running wheel studs, or any plans to upgrade from lug bolts?

Bimmer Challenge sounds like its on the to-do list for me then. How much is entry fee? Didnt see that listed. Im pretty new with track driving right now I run my cars over at Adams Motorsports Park in Riverside for time attack on the outdoor go kart track.....probably closer to autocross speeds. Its fun though I can see what mods affect my times on my cars. Ill be heading to Willow Springs on the 15th first time on a big track. This stuff is addicting not sure how much farther down the rabbit hole I will go but I can already see this being way more expensive than my dirt bike racing. I already am thinking about gutting and caging the 944 and turning it into a spec race car.

I appreciate the offer. I ended up rolling my fenders with a baseball bat. Actually came out good lips are flat inside and I cut half the inner fender liners out but they still rub a little. I have 5mm spacers coming tomorrow. That should hopefully be enough. Not running coilovers or camber plates yet so cant dial in a bunch of camber.

A wheel stud conversion kit is coming tomorrow with the spacers I was waiting to see what I needed to order both at once.

[Team Neverlift]

Not running coilovers or camber plates yet so cant dial in a bunch of camber.

BC entry is free, after paying for your normal HPDE entry fee, & another $20 or so for timing, and transponder.

The popular misconceptions are that you need coilovers to have decent suspension, and that you need camber plates to get camber. Both are false.

I started w/ 96+ M3 Bilsteins, if you switch the top mounts Left to Right, and Right to Left, you will have about -2.5 front camber... you can shim the strut for another additional degree (turner & bimmerworld sell kits for this), which I did, and had -3.5 camber from the OE strut & top mount setup. I tracked like this for over a year, worked great.

[tvcasualty]

Ordered a Mishimoto fan/shroud and controller cause my stock fan grenaded at the track friday busted the shroud and expansion tank to radiator hose.

[BinmerRick]

BW solid rear subframe bushings, 95a AKG diff bushings, all new rear suspension bushings joints and mounts, used rear trailing arms (chasing an alignment issue, toe out passenger rear), BW lightweight flywheel and spring hub clutch kit, SS clutch and brake lines, and new rotors.
Feels good to confess where my tax return went. I hope to be back on track by the 23rd.

[bigpuppy]

Unfortunately, my S52 seemes like it may have a blown head gasket (at the least), so, it's motivating me to install the S54 and 6 spd I've had sitting in the garage for 3-4 years. I've recently been acquiring some more items towards that project.

Z3M Roadster S54 cluster

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Z3M S54 Engine harness and euro 6 spd trans cross member

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Euro 6 spd Evo III SSK, DSSR, selector rod.

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[brchapm]

At a Christmas party last year, the valet's jacked up my shifter. Upon inspection, the shift handle ball cup bushing was cracked, (may not have been all their fault since the car does have some miles on it). Deciding it was a good time to replace all the shift wear items, I replaced all the shifter bushings along with the shift coupler and that little sponge thing. Looking at the Pelican DIY, it looked easier to replace everything with the driveshaft off, so I bought a new GUIBO. There was also guidance that it would also be a good time to replace the rear tranny mounts. Since you have to take the exhaust off to get to the driveshaft, I figured getting a fancy new muffler wouldn't hurt either. I grabbed one of those group buy daCorsa mufflers, (but was not on the group buy).

Just got everything put on yesterday, and while the jury is still out on the muffler, (I think I like it, but that is the first non-OEM item on my M3 and I need to get used to the sound). A cool thing is that I was experiencing a little vibration when coming off the accelerator at certain speeds. No one could figure it out and people were pointing to the tranny and drivetrain. Looks like it was just the rear muffler mounts that were completely failed. The vibration was a minor annoyance that I have been dealing with for 50k miles. Just replacing the muffler was worth the cost to get rid of the vibration, (new mounts).

The biggest problem I had that took me at least an hour of persistence to get through was putting the darn shift coupler with the sponge back on. There is probably an easy way to do this but, man, an hour of pushing, pin falling out, pushing, swearing...finally happened though and I am reaping the benefits of a smoother, vibration free shift.

Another issue that I haven't been able to resolve yet is my 2nd and a bit with my 4th gear are popping out of gear. I bought some ATF to swap the fluid but couldn't manhandle the fill bolts off the tranny. Will not give up for sure but was curious if anyone had any other ideas as to what could be causing this? I was going to replace the rear tranny mounts but when I looked, it appears that I had already replaced the mounts about 50k ago with the UUC black mounts with the aluminum cups. I could go back to the old style mounts as I purchased new ones if anyone may think this is causing a problem?

[TostitoBandito]

Since it's all done now, I've spent the better part of the last two months doing all of this:

• Reinforced both front and rear subframes with TMS kits (motor mounts and sway bar tabs)
• Replaced oil pump and pickup with Achilles reinforced units and wired the oil pump bolt to the sprocket
• Achilles baffle welded into the oil pan replacing stock baffle
• Replaced front control arm ball joints with new Lemforder
• Replaced OEM FCAB's with 95A poly (Revshift)
• Replaced OEM steering rack with E46 ZHP unit (linear, 3.0 turns ltl)
• Replaced OEM steering coupler with new OEM unit
• Replaced OEM motor and transmission mounts with Vorshlag 95A and 80A poly respectively
• Replaced all rear upper/lower control arm outer ball joints with new Lemforder
• Replaced OEM inner upper control arm bushings with new Lemforder
• Replaced unknown poly RTAB's with new Lemforder rubber plus Vorshlag limiters
• Replaced OEM rear subframe bushings with 95A poly (Revshift)
• Replaced OEM diff bushings with 95A poly (Revshift)
• Replaced oil (5W40), diff fluid (Red Line 75W110), and power steering fluid (Red Line D4 ATF)

Definitely an interesting project. I'd say the car is like new, except mine is far more aggressive than it ever was from the factory. The engine soundtrack inside the car is incredible now with the stiffer mounts. Still civilized enough for me to daily it though.

[Gene V]

Subframe bushings...

[bigpuppy]

Since it's all done now, I've spent the better part of the last two months doing all of this:

• Reinforced both front and rear subframes with TMS kits (motor mounts and sway bar tabs)
• Replaced oil pump and pickup with Achilles reinforced units and wired the oil pump bolt to the sprocket
• Achilles baffle welded into the oil pan replacing stock baffle
• Replaced front control arm ball joints with new Lemforder
• Replaced OEM FCAB's with 95A poly (Revshift)
• Replaced OEM steering rack with E46 ZHP unit (linear, 3.0 turns ltl)
• Replaced OEM steering coupler with new OEM unit
• Replaced OEM motor and transmission mounts with Vorshlag 95A and 80A poly respectively
• Replaced all rear upper/lower control arm outer ball joints with new Lemforder
• Replaced OEM inner upper control arm bushings with new Lemforder
• Replaced unknown poly RTAB's with new Lemforder rubber plus Vorshlag limiters
• Replaced OEM rear subframe bushings with 95A poly (Revshift)
• Replaced OEM diff bushings with 95A poly (Revshift)
• Replaced oil (5W40), diff fluid (Red Line 75W110), and power steering fluid (Red Line D4 ATF)

Definitely an interesting project. I'd say the car is like new, except mine is far more aggressive than it ever was from the factory. The engine soundtrack inside the car is incredible now with the stiffer mounts. Still civilized enough for me to daily it though.

Wow, thats a lot. Between the bushings/ball joints/reinforcements/ & steering rack, that car must feel totally different. I dig projects like that, where the seat of the pants feel is noticeably improved. It makes playing with the car worth it when you can feel it.