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Thread: S38B38 into my 1977 e12 chassis'd 633CSi

  1. #176
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    Sounds good. Go as high as u can with that big cam. Even as high as 11.8-12.0:1.

    Once the engine is done what's next
    BMW’s
    90 E34 M5
    84 E24 M635csi standalone ecu with coil on plug
    94 E34 540i/6 SC 5-17psi Flex fuel/standalone ecu
    97 Z3 2.8
    97 E36 M3 euro SC still u/c


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    11 Audi S5 APR stg2
    19 Volkswagen Amarok V6


  2. #177
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    1986 e24 635csi, 1999 Saab 93, 1992 Saab 9000 turb
    Before you put it back together..... If the block is stripped. There are some things you can do, some very secret old school racing tricks.

    Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk

  3. #178
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    Hey Josh,

    That was quick tear down...

    Your engine block to head bolt stud were
    is the steam hole, does not make me too
    happy...You are case number 34561
    I see with block being cracked in that area.
    I do have in the shop 5) S38 blocks with the same
    exact problem !
    And this continued to prove my theory on the
    S38 water temp/and upgrades are a must.

    The B38 3.8 block is the worst at worst in
    therms of Heat. S38-B35/M88-3 is by far the best
    of all 3 version in therms of temps.

    The 3.8 at 95mm bore leaves about 3.Xmm I forgot
    already the measurements but thiner wall
    equals to more heat !!!

    Not done yet!, your goal is 500rpm's more per 1min
    over the stock rev limiter at 7250rpm then this
    will create even more heat.

    On top of the Ice cream the extra Stroke of 6mm
    over the M88/B35 is the proper recipient for even
    more heat created.

    Wait not done yet! the B38 is using 142.5mm rod length
    at the BDC of the block means more load, more friction.

    You never mentioned what will be the repair on your
    Cracked Block ? Welding the Cast Iron Block I find this a lot of Fun,
    but the problems is not just the weld, then over heated
    area, then Deck the block for the 3rd time ? and
    then Bore will be distorted from the welding process,
    then torque plate must be used and re-bore and re-hone
    the cyl is must thing, New pistons then ?

    I am not happy with the Cooling system you do currently have,
    all E24 3.6 and 3.8 swaps I have ever seen so far using the E24 std
    water radiator. Look at E34M5 it came with larger radiator and still
    I find this in a Hot Climate, not enough.

    If I were you I would push the engine back as far as possible and
    that will give you another around 1.5 upfront area
    Then, you will open more room in-front of the engine so that way
    you will be able to fit larger radiator. Then we can fit 420mm deep
    11 blade fan so to pull air a lot more efficient, perhaps fit 460mm ?
    from V8 as I do on all my customers cars.

    Then, and at last, we need to get rid of the 3.6 3.8 version very bad cooling
    system piping. Swap the previous gen S38/M88 t-stat housing,
    (long to explain why the S38/M88 is far more superior compare
    to 3.6 3.8 version) Also as a bonus we will save some weight as well.

    Things are not easy as lot of people think, lets do a swap..

    Protect your investment, all I can say in a clever way.

    Keep us posted.

    Regards
    Anri
    Last edited by sofiabghome; 06-25-2017 at 11:53 AM.
    - E24 M6 88' Schwartz/Sparco Race Track Toy
    - E24 M6 88' Schwartz/Nature. daily driver
    - E24 M6 88' Royal Blue/Lotus White- Restoration project.
    - E24 M6 88' Zinnoberrot/Natur. daily S38 B35 special engine project...
    - E30 M3 Diamand Schwartz build S14-B2X.
    - E28 M5 Black/Nature M-Technic project
    - E31 '97 840Ci Black/Black CSI complete futures my cruiser soon S62-B50 6spd.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XTV4asC3Bp0&t=14s
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  4. #179
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    Anri, we run a 540i radiator (brand new) and an oil cooler. she runs pretty cold most of the time. We'll consider a bigger fan. Australia can get terribly hot and dry. The engine will be bench dyno'd so we'll fine tune the cooling from there. We'll also place a torque plate on the block when we re-hone the bores.

    Gaz, we'll CC the head and confirm compression prior to ordering the new MLS gasket set. A 0.6mm gasket should be fine. Our valves are hitting the side of the reliefs so it is not a depth issue. We have plenty of depth in the valve reliefs. As you know this has been exhausting, draining and taken years. Once it is ready to go back together that's exactly what will happen. I'm not going to spend a cent more for an extra 10 or 20hp. It will be blue printed, balanced and from the block up be race prep'd and race engine accurate. That should do my old 633CSi fine.
    Last edited by Shipper; 06-25-2017 at 06:33 PM.
    1977 633 CSi RHD Euro. S38B38 3.9L M5 Transplant. 5 Speed Getrag Dogleg. 3.73 LSD. 417hp, 369lb/ft
    1971 3.0CS E3 2dr Alpina Special Coupe Racer, 347hp, 295lb/ft

  5. #180
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shipper View Post
    Anri, we run a 540i radiator (brand new) and an oil cooler. she runs pretty cold most of the time. We'll consider a bigger fan. Australia can get terribly hot and dry. The engine will be bench dyno'd so we'll fine tune the cooling from there. We'll also place a torque plate on the block when we re-hone the bores.

    Gaz, we'll CC the head and confirm compression prior to ordering the new MLS gasket set. A 0.6mm gasket should be fine. Our valves are hitting the side of the reliefs so it is not a depth issue. We have plenty of depth in the valve reliefs. As you know this has been exhausting, draining and taken years. Once it is ready to go back together that's exactly what will happen. I'm not going to spend a cent more for an extra 10 or 20hp. It will be blue printed, balanced and from the block up be race prep'd and race engine accurate. That should do my old 633CSi fine.
    Hey Josh,

    Several remarks.

    First from all your pictures posted your water radiator
    clearly shows it is Not 540i V8 version.
    This is M30 635 version, note on top of the M30/635
    version you can identify the little cut offs to add the top ducting
    which is not absolute necessarily but its nice to have that.
    V8 Radiator Version never ever came with those top cut offs.
    because the shroud is one piece.

    Also pay attention to the bleeder nipple location, also
    note the upper hose location is all the way up and
    on the 540i located about 1 inch lower.
    Also why did you get it for automatic version ?

    This one hear is E34 540i V8 version M60
    https://c1552172.ssl.cf0.rackcdn.com/540635_x800.jpg

    Also note, on yours you don't have the brackets for
    the Air Shroud which is connected via the plastic press in
    clips.

    Trust me on this.

    Why MLS ? Looks like you like to tear engines down more
    often than a race teams ?

    L6 Cast iron block does not do well with MLS specially S38,
    Fuck, at the shop I have worked on zillion S54 engines and
    they always sweat from the cyl head gasket.
    Aluminum blocks such as S62/S65/S85 do well because
    its Alu on top of Alu and the heat expansion work differently
    also it shorter 2 cyl.

    Cast Iron block has different heat characteristics compare
    to the Aluminum and when add MLS is no go.

    MLS gasket is a certain recipient for a failure on L6 engine.

    Josh, I am located in SoCalifornia and I know when the weather
    does get around 110F with my daily driver E24M6 at stock
    84mm stroke and stock bore, you can tell.

    You have not ran the motor on a daily basis, yet.
    I can tell you have not driven 3.8 enough time when its hot
    and now the New bore at 95.2-3mm ?

    At last what is your battery at 45 pounds doing at the worst place it
    can be inside of a car !!! Behind the front head light.

    Place that battery inside the trunk on the LHD corner at the end so
    to load the rear.

    Hope this helps a bit..

    Regards
    Anri
    Last edited by sofiabghome; 06-26-2017 at 12:30 AM.
    - E24 M6 88' Schwartz/Sparco Race Track Toy
    - E24 M6 88' Schwartz/Nature. daily driver
    - E24 M6 88' Royal Blue/Lotus White- Restoration project.
    - E24 M6 88' Zinnoberrot/Natur. daily S38 B35 special engine project...
    - E30 M3 Diamand Schwartz build S14-B2X.
    - E28 M5 Black/Nature M-Technic project
    - E31 '97 840Ci Black/Black CSI complete futures my cruiser soon S62-B50 6spd.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XTV4asC3Bp0&t=14s
    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCyh...yUW-Q/featured
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  6. #181
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    Anri,

    Current bore is (and we'll get this checked again prior to re-build) 95.2mm compared to stock 94.6mm. So I'm assuming I'll end up around 95.4?

    I'll sit down with the engine builder and look at the cooling. Larger fan and mayhaps a race or drag radiator to ensure we are always cool. These are not big dollar items and are so so important to getting performance and longevity out of the engine.
    1977 633 CSi RHD Euro. S38B38 3.9L M5 Transplant. 5 Speed Getrag Dogleg. 3.73 LSD. 417hp, 369lb/ft
    1971 3.0CS E3 2dr Alpina Special Coupe Racer, 347hp, 295lb/ft

  7. #182
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    1986 e24 635csi, 1999 Saab 93, 1992 Saab 9000 turb
    It's a bit of work but if your block is stripped get the water jacket extrusion honed. Removes all the casting burrs which cause hot spots. In this engine cylinder 2 failed because of this.

    Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk

  8. #183
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shipper View Post
    Anri,

    Current bore is (and we'll get this checked again prior to re-build) 95.2mm compared to stock 94.6mm. So I'm assuming I'll end up around 95.4?

    I'll sit down with the engine builder and look at the cooling. Larger fan and mayhaps a race or drag radiator to ensure we are always cool. These are not big dollar items and are so so important to getting performance and longevity out of the engine.


    Hey Josh,

    Ok, current bore is 95.2mm.
    And when you end up with nearly 95.4/5
    you are making your bore 1 full mm
    oversize. Stock bore/wall thickness
    on the 3.8 I measure yesterday is
    about 5.15mm give or take.

    Now, take 1mm away from this and
    you coming down to about 4.1mm bore/wall
    thickness. At 4mm you are getting near
    the limit of where longevity will be a concern.

    The only way to extend the engine realibity
    at this is to make the cooling system a lot more
    efficient than you can ever imagine....
    (I will tell you later what I did on our E46M3 S54
    Race car) so you to understand the importance
    of the temperature.

    Also I have not met a person yet to register
    that on the B38 3.8 the water Jackets are smaller
    compare to the 3.5 3.6 version !!!

    BMW found the problem whit the cracked blocks and they reduced
    the Jacker size on the block deck by significant amount
    and still 3.8 gets cracked sure harder than the 3.5 3.6
    but still do, as you can see...

    Now, with the reduced water Jackets size on the 3.8
    you are increasing the temp inside the the block due to
    flow restriction, means more heat.

    I am not too happy with your Headers not being shield.
    You should have wrap them because they
    are next to the side head cooling pipe exit.

    On NA engine EGT and the headers temp can reach up too
    700-800F aka 400C on daily driving in a hot weather !!!
    and when on the track is easy 1000F aka 500c
    than the water coming from the cyl head is around 105-115c

    So the other 300-400 Celsius Radiant heat is getting directly
    to that aluminum side pipe which is pre-heating the water
    even more, then the cooling system is loaded to cool down
    the water by significant more amount.

    I have created a Custom heat shields on all S38 engines
    I work on customers cars. The result is amazing of how much
    radiant direct heat is killed and stays underneath the car and
    temp are dropped by significant amount.

    Lot's of people ignore cooling system on the S38 and other
    engines...my E31 M62 operates at 100-105c consistent temp
    then after the tweaks I did dropped it to 80-90c max, and yes
    better running and the fuel economy remained absolute the
    same...

    Concentrate on more important area vs confirming the crank is
    90mm stroke, or the CC Dome head chamber is 43cc or so
    and other measurements which they will never ever change....
    Its like confirming your fuel tank is what ever the manufacture
    has designed and provided.

    Will be interesting to see what you guys will come up with on
    the cooling system.

    Regards
    Anri
    - E24 M6 88' Schwartz/Sparco Race Track Toy
    - E24 M6 88' Schwartz/Nature. daily driver
    - E24 M6 88' Royal Blue/Lotus White- Restoration project.
    - E24 M6 88' Zinnoberrot/Natur. daily S38 B35 special engine project...
    - E30 M3 Diamand Schwartz build S14-B2X.
    - E28 M5 Black/Nature M-Technic project
    - E31 '97 840Ci Black/Black CSI complete futures my cruiser soon S62-B50 6spd.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XTV4asC3Bp0&t=14s
    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCyh...yUW-Q/featured
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  9. #184
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    Anri,

    I think cooling will be a big issue. We have the correct tape to wrap the extractors, we will consider a large race radiator (they are economical when you consider other upgrades), I can look at a larger oil radiator (controlling oil temp works just as well as controlling water temp) and then we will go from there.

    The only reason we checked stroke and bore is that the block says 3.5. Since then I've noticed other S38B38's and B36's with the 3.5 on the block. We wanted to confirm we had a B38.
    1977 633 CSi RHD Euro. S38B38 3.9L M5 Transplant. 5 Speed Getrag Dogleg. 3.73 LSD. 417hp, 369lb/ft
    1971 3.0CS E3 2dr Alpina Special Coupe Racer, 347hp, 295lb/ft

  10. #185
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shipper View Post
    Anri,

    I think cooling will be a big issue. We have the correct tape to wrap the extractors, we will consider a large race radiator (they are economical when you consider other upgrades), I can look at a larger oil radiator (controlling oil temp works just as well as controlling water temp) and then we will go from there.

    The only reason we checked stroke and bore is that the block says 3.5. Since then I've noticed other S38B38's and B36's with the 3.5 on the block. We wanted to confirm we had a B38.

    Hey Josh,

    Correct me if I am wrong...but
    on the B38 block it says 38 not 3.5.

    Also externally you can recognize from a a miles away
    by the bottom of the block Re-inforcemenets
    which are deign to handle the 90mm stroke.

    The 3.6 and 3.5 version S38 shared the
    same block.

    Now, on all S38 engine if not mistaken the
    block Deck Hight is 217.5mm. and then the
    crank and the rods are making up the stroke.

    I am not sure how is this all if I can call it
    Hi performance engine direction going ? but,
    There are already too many changes and
    mismatch parts and we need to get the puzzle
    together.

    Next question is what connecting rods do you
    have ? what is the length ?

    One never note but the B38 block has been
    designed to suit the 90mm stroke and the 142.5mm
    rod length. It's not regular block and lets put the longer
    stroke and then rods piston and hear we go 3.795cc.

    On the B38 block when you flip the oil pan side facing
    up at the the bottom of the bore you can note there
    are Re-inforcements which 3.5 nor 3.6 do have.

    Why ? because at 90mm stoke and its shorter rod
    at 142.5mm at BDC the rod bent is a lot
    on the way towards TDC the and piston is
    pushing so hard and is trying to
    rape the Block very hard at the bottom.

    And why Sir. Paul R. reinforced that area in order
    to reduce those massive forces created.

    You put 90mm crank stroke on a regular B35 block not so
    clever combination my friend, and your are aiming to rev
    this engine to 7750rpm ? I think this is absurd.

    Josh, please understand I am not criticizing you
    I am just pointing and suggesting of how to put the
    puzzle properly together.

    Larger radiator ? good luck. I never understood
    what BMW was thinking when they designed the E24 engine
    position, forward ahead of the front axle not back
    ward in order to correct the weight distributions and
    also fit a larger radiator....
    Very bad design, heater core was more important than
    chassis handling balance.

    Is why on my race car E24M6 I have pushed my S38-B36
    15 inches backward !!! sure it does not drive like a road E24M6
    any more, even when I have 1 gallon of fuel inside my Fuel
    cell.

    Hope this helps a bit.

    Regards
    Anri
    Last edited by sofiabghome; 06-28-2017 at 09:41 AM.
    - E24 M6 88' Schwartz/Sparco Race Track Toy
    - E24 M6 88' Schwartz/Nature. daily driver
    - E24 M6 88' Royal Blue/Lotus White- Restoration project.
    - E24 M6 88' Zinnoberrot/Natur. daily S38 B35 special engine project...
    - E30 M3 Diamand Schwartz build S14-B2X.
    - E28 M5 Black/Nature M-Technic project
    - E31 '97 840Ci Black/Black CSI complete futures my cruiser soon S62-B50 6spd.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XTV4asC3Bp0&t=14s
    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCyh...yUW-Q/featured
    https://www.instagram.com/euroclassicmotors/

  11. #186
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    No problems Anri. You are a wealth of information.

    Most importantly I want to get the engine back together, in and running safely. My car will run around 1450kg when the engine is in so it should go like a rocket. Anything else, in a 1450kg 6 speed with 3.73LSD will just be icing on the cake.

    Josh
    1977 633 CSi RHD Euro. S38B38 3.9L M5 Transplant. 5 Speed Getrag Dogleg. 3.73 LSD. 417hp, 369lb/ft
    1971 3.0CS E3 2dr Alpina Special Coupe Racer, 347hp, 295lb/ft

  12. #187
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shipper View Post
    No problems Anri. You are a wealth of information.

    Most importantly I want to get the engine back together, in and running safely. My car will run around 1450kg when the engine is in so it should go like a rocket. Anything else, in a 1450kg 6 speed with 3.73LSD will just be icing on the cake.

    Josh

    Josh,

    What is your connecting rod length ?
    Are you planing to make a new set of pistons,
    or use what you do have now ?

    If you are making new pistons I would
    change the rods as well.

    How many cracks do you have in your block ?
    Also were are the cracks ? are they across
    the steam hole to the cyl head bolt or is from
    the water jacket to the cyl head bolt ?

    Let's finish the engine first and then will move
    to the 6spd gear box. We have so much work
    coming on your way till the engine is on idle and
    ready on the start finish on the Sidney Race Track
    session, perhaps to Bathurst ?
    Time to show the E30M3 S14 owners what a wider
    car and power can do when dialed properly.

    On the diff ? you need 4.10 not 3.73..
    but lets leave this for later, will explain you why
    you need 4.10.
    Think like an M3 owner not like M5/M6 owner.

    Let us know.

    Regards,
    Anri
    Last edited by sofiabghome; 06-29-2017 at 09:24 AM.
    - E24 M6 88' Schwartz/Sparco Race Track Toy
    - E24 M6 88' Schwartz/Nature. daily driver
    - E24 M6 88' Royal Blue/Lotus White- Restoration project.
    - E24 M6 88' Zinnoberrot/Natur. daily S38 B35 special engine project...
    - E30 M3 Diamand Schwartz build S14-B2X.
    - E28 M5 Black/Nature M-Technic project
    - E31 '97 840Ci Black/Black CSI complete futures my cruiser soon S62-B50 6spd.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XTV4asC3Bp0&t=14s
    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCyh...yUW-Q/featured
    https://www.instagram.com/euroclassicmotors/

  13. #188
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    The block should be back from the specialist this Friday. Then the engine builder will finalise the first round of machining and do a dummy build.

    We will get the battery in the boot now. Found this below and it looks the go. Cannot put the battery on the rear left hand side (to offset the drivers mass) as the spare wheel well is in the way and putting it on the right side of the boot sees it on the same side as the driver (RHD car).

    https://www.racetep.com/bmw-e12-rear...d-battery.html
    1977 633 CSi RHD Euro. S38B38 3.9L M5 Transplant. 5 Speed Getrag Dogleg. 3.73 LSD. 417hp, 369lb/ft
    1971 3.0CS E3 2dr Alpina Special Coupe Racer, 347hp, 295lb/ft

  14. #189
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    Hi,

    Did you end up welding the block cracks ?
    or ?

    On the battery get a small size battery
    and try to offset the weight, even if you
    have to fabricate something, offset it.
    RHD and Slant L6 BMW engine is not good
    balance, its proven so anything you will do
    will help for the better. JPS Aussi E24 was
    LHD for that given reason, never right.

    If I were you, I would remove the tire
    complete and make a custom size Fuel Cell
    to be placed in the spare tire compartment.

    You will move a lot of weight from the rear
    RHD corner by doing this.

    We need to move as much as possible weight
    from the right hand side..and move that to
    LH side.

    Regards
    Anri
    Last edited by sofiabghome; 07-11-2017 at 12:11 PM.
    - E24 M6 88' Schwartz/Sparco Race Track Toy
    - E24 M6 88' Schwartz/Nature. daily driver
    - E24 M6 88' Royal Blue/Lotus White- Restoration project.
    - E24 M6 88' Zinnoberrot/Natur. daily S38 B35 special engine project...
    - E30 M3 Diamand Schwartz build S14-B2X.
    - E28 M5 Black/Nature M-Technic project
    - E31 '97 840Ci Black/Black CSI complete futures my cruiser soon S62-B50 6spd.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XTV4asC3Bp0&t=14s
    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCyh...yUW-Q/featured
    https://www.instagram.com/euroclassicmotors/

  15. #190
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    Will check on engine progress tomorrow. Battery rear location kit and rear strut brace ordered and should arrive tomorrow or early next week. As the engine is out we'll get this straight in.

    https://www.racetep.com/bmw-e12-rear...d-battery.html

    19876126_1771549176196059_1773481841_o.jpg
    1977 633 CSi RHD Euro. S38B38 3.9L M5 Transplant. 5 Speed Getrag Dogleg. 3.73 LSD. 417hp, 369lb/ft
    1971 3.0CS E3 2dr Alpina Special Coupe Racer, 347hp, 295lb/ft

  16. #191
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    One of the best radiator builders, at least in the Phoenix area, builds single row with very large tube radiators. Supposedly better heat dissipation. According to the several people I have met that run them, even in our summer heat, which can reach 122F, their gauges never go past 1/2 way, even when racing. You might google Ron Davis Radiators and see more in depth information about that design. IIRC, someone on this forum found that type of radiator in the $500 range. Ron Davis in the $900 range.
    81 Euro undergoing total nut and bolt restoration
    pictures at: flickr.com/photos/bertsphotos

  17. #192
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bert Poliakoff View Post
    One of the best radiator builders, at least in the Phoenix area, builds single row with very large tube radiators. Supposedly better heat dissipation. According to the several people I have met that run them, even in our summer heat, which can reach 122F, their gauges never go past 1/2 way, even when racing. You might google Ron Davis Radiators and see more in depth information about that design. IIRC, someone on this forum found that type of radiator in the $500 range. Ron Davis in the $900 range.
    Now this is worth a shot. We'll get the engine running and go from there.

    I'm also looking at an M635CSi gauge cluster from Ivo in the Netherlands with a 300km/h speedo and 8000rpm tacho. That should finish the car off nicely.

    Thanks for this Bert.
    1977 633 CSi RHD Euro. S38B38 3.9L M5 Transplant. 5 Speed Getrag Dogleg. 3.73 LSD. 417hp, 369lb/ft
    1971 3.0CS E3 2dr Alpina Special Coupe Racer, 347hp, 295lb/ft

  18. #193
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Los Angeles CA
    Posts
    559
    My Cars
    BMW Service
    Quote Originally Posted by Bert Poliakoff View Post
    One of the best radiator builders, at least in the Phoenix area, builds single row with very large tube radiators. Supposedly better heat dissipation. According to the several people I have met that run them, even in our summer heat, which can reach 122F, their gauges never go past 1/2 way, even when racing. You might google Ron Davis Radiators and see more in depth information about that design. IIRC, someone on this forum found that type of radiator in the $500 range. Ron Davis in the $900 range.
    Hey Bert,

    Spoke with Ron Davis many moons ago,
    Griffin, C@R main engineers etc...
    They all say this size is good up to 500hp.

    Hmmm when I installed it on our track E46M3
    then at streets of willow CW with 4.10 differential
    20min session and rpm range is between 5500 to 8200rpm
    and you just do 5 laps and temp gage jumps
    in a red line...then cool down lap.

    One needs to understand the Engine design first and
    then go around it. I proved that moons ago when they
    all say over the phone how many HP is your engine ?
    I say 340-350hp (S54) they say ohh this is good up to
    500hp you are fine, let me have your credit card..

    Then install and after 6-7 hard laps then red line at outside
    temp like 95-98F

    Cast Iron Block+Long stroke, short rod+ Cast iron block
    does heat soak+ops just forgot pass 7000rpm piston speed
    raised dramatically on a 90mm stroke and this is very very
    proper recipient to generate heat beyond what they all claim
    can handle.

    E24 is very tricky for the track in specially Hot Climates
    like California, AZ, Aussie etc..
    Due to the engine position their is not much distance
    between the radiator and the fan blade and the actual
    engine block sits like a wall behind the fan blade so air
    can not escape away no matter how good the fan
    clutch is.

    Look over how BMW improved the design on the E31
    the distance between the radiator and the Fan blade is
    around 30-35cm and then you have this massive
    Fan Shroud which is part of the ducting design.

    By moving the engine back and opening a distance
    between the engine and the radiator then you add
    nice fan shroud and things are really working as it
    should in therms of flow going and sucked air goes
    away from the rad.

    Around town on AC and shopping mode sure all work
    well but on the track nope their is another upgrade
    to do in order to make it last lap after lap after lap..

    Do you remember on my track E24M6 how much I
    have pushed the engine back massive shroud I installed
    and this huge large tube custom radiator, with that set
    up I still want to improve a bit more for those days
    at the track were is 95-105F and my S38 screams
    between 5500-8000rpm.

    Just like all those claim 3-ple pass radiator works really
    bitching and how efficient because its turns the water
    3 time until the water comes back to the engine but I
    will explain to you later why it never ever worked well
    on the BMW L6 Cast Iron block...
    I tried this moons ago and trashed one radiator for alu
    scrap.


    Regards
    Anri
    Last edited by sofiabghome; 07-20-2017 at 04:00 PM.
    - E24 M6 88' Schwartz/Sparco Race Track Toy
    - E24 M6 88' Schwartz/Nature. daily driver
    - E24 M6 88' Royal Blue/Lotus White- Restoration project.
    - E24 M6 88' Zinnoberrot/Natur. daily S38 B35 special engine project...
    - E30 M3 Diamand Schwartz build S14-B2X.
    - E28 M5 Black/Nature M-Technic project
    - E31 '97 840Ci Black/Black CSI complete futures my cruiser soon S62-B50 6spd.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XTV4asC3Bp0&t=14s
    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCyh...yUW-Q/featured
    https://www.instagram.com/euroclassicmotors/

  19. #194
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Los Angeles CA
    Posts
    559
    My Cars
    BMW Service
    Quote Originally Posted by Shipper View Post
    Now this is worth a shot. We'll get the engine running and go from there.

    I'm also looking at an M635CSi gauge cluster from Ivo in the Netherlands with a 300km/h speedo and 8000rpm tacho. That should finish the car off nicely.

    Thanks for this Bert.
    Hey Josh,

    Are you looking for this ? I was the first to come
    up with this custom and OEM look on the E24
    300km/h a decade ago, others just followed..

    I am also the first to input the Oil Temp inside the
    RPM gage like E34M5 and E30M3.

    I can make any custom application.

    Cheers

    Anri



    E24-300km:h+oil temp.jpg


    E24-300km:h.jpg
    Last edited by sofiabghome; 07-20-2017 at 03:24 AM.
    - E24 M6 88' Schwartz/Sparco Race Track Toy
    - E24 M6 88' Schwartz/Nature. daily driver
    - E24 M6 88' Royal Blue/Lotus White- Restoration project.
    - E24 M6 88' Zinnoberrot/Natur. daily S38 B35 special engine project...
    - E30 M3 Diamand Schwartz build S14-B2X.
    - E28 M5 Black/Nature M-Technic project
    - E31 '97 840Ci Black/Black CSI complete futures my cruiser soon S62-B50 6spd.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XTV4asC3Bp0&t=14s
    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCyh...yUW-Q/featured
    https://www.instagram.com/euroclassicmotors/

  20. #195
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Sydney Australa
    Posts
    2,482
    My Cars
    1x633, 1x E3 2 DR Racer
    That's what I'm looking for. I can run it off of the e34 large case LSD I run and the Megasquirt. PM me a price. Be gentle, my car is sending me broke...... wait...... broker!
    1977 633 CSi RHD Euro. S38B38 3.9L M5 Transplant. 5 Speed Getrag Dogleg. 3.73 LSD. 417hp, 369lb/ft
    1971 3.0CS E3 2dr Alpina Special Coupe Racer, 347hp, 295lb/ft

  21. #196
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Los Angeles CA
    Posts
    559
    My Cars
    BMW Service
    Quote Originally Posted by Shipper View Post
    e34 large case LSD
    Josh,

    Get rid of the Large case and put 188mm E30 4.10
    and then take the E36 std Rear Differential cover
    and then swap it and make it Double ear mounting
    you put sticky tires on your finished E24 3.8 and then
    you will ware and brake differential after differential
    because E24 has 1 mounting point, even one puts a
    Delrin or even aluminum is not going to help because the
    torque is going clockwise then counter clockwise and
    the mounting point is all wrong for spirited/track car.

    You just cary if remember correctly 188 vs 210 (23pounds)
    extra luggage in your car.

    On my track E24M6 I do have 188mm and work perfect
    whit my rear 315 tires.

    Will sent you PM.

    What's happening with the engine ? no updates ?
    what happen whit the block ?
    What connecting rods are you using ????


    Regards
    Anri
    Last edited by sofiabghome; 07-21-2017 at 12:54 AM.
    - E24 M6 88' Schwartz/Sparco Race Track Toy
    - E24 M6 88' Schwartz/Nature. daily driver
    - E24 M6 88' Royal Blue/Lotus White- Restoration project.
    - E24 M6 88' Zinnoberrot/Natur. daily S38 B35 special engine project...
    - E30 M3 Diamand Schwartz build S14-B2X.
    - E28 M5 Black/Nature M-Technic project
    - E31 '97 840Ci Black/Black CSI complete futures my cruiser soon S62-B50 6spd.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XTV4asC3Bp0&t=14s
    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCyh...yUW-Q/featured
    https://www.instagram.com/euroclassicmotors/

  22. #197
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Sydney Australa
    Posts
    2,482
    My Cars
    1x633, 1x E3 2 DR Racer
    Into the mechanic's tomorrow. Block was expected back early this week so we'll see how that is going. I'll get the car put together and running well before I look at swapping diffs. I've got a medium case 3.45 LSD and the 3.73 large case LSD that is in it now. We changed the mounting system to ensure it is far stronger.

    I think the rods are stock. Check out the photos below of the engine as it was being put together the last time.

    a2f15580-2a0e-4e22-86de-4bd60896c941.jpg

    ee5aae2c-39d1-40cb-adc3-3991365b5d7e.jpg
    1977 633 CSi RHD Euro. S38B38 3.9L M5 Transplant. 5 Speed Getrag Dogleg. 3.73 LSD. 417hp, 369lb/ft
    1971 3.0CS E3 2dr Alpina Special Coupe Racer, 347hp, 295lb/ft

  23. #198
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Sydney Australa
    Posts
    2,482
    My Cars
    1x633, 1x E3 2 DR Racer
    Block back from the repairer last Friday and now as good as new.

    Machining this and next week. Dummy assembly to start late next week.

    Engine ETA, together, dyno'd and Megasquirt on and running by end of August.
    1977 633 CSi RHD Euro. S38B38 3.9L M5 Transplant. 5 Speed Getrag Dogleg. 3.73 LSD. 417hp, 369lb/ft
    1971 3.0CS E3 2dr Alpina Special Coupe Racer, 347hp, 295lb/ft

  24. #199
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Sydney Australa
    Posts
    2,482
    My Cars
    1x633, 1x E3 2 DR Racer
    Dummy assembly done.

    Pistons off to be fly cut and hopefully back next Tuesday.

    Cam gears should be back next week from being slotted.

    Will check compression, blue print and balance next week.

    Week after next we should be putting it back together, subject to getting the right gasket thickness.

    Slowly getting there.
    1977 633 CSi RHD Euro. S38B38 3.9L M5 Transplant. 5 Speed Getrag Dogleg. 3.73 LSD. 417hp, 369lb/ft
    1971 3.0CS E3 2dr Alpina Special Coupe Racer, 347hp, 295lb/ft

  25. #200
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Sydney Australa
    Posts
    2,482
    My Cars
    1x633, 1x E3 2 DR Racer
    Pistons are back.

    Talked to Pip Barker, JPS racing team engine builder who agrees with current engine builder that given the aggressive nature of the CAM, that shimless buckets should be used. Both think that over 7250rpm throwing a shim could destroy the cam box.

    $50/each and 24 needed. This should take the build to 7850 rpm - ish.
    1977 633 CSi RHD Euro. S38B38 3.9L M5 Transplant. 5 Speed Getrag Dogleg. 3.73 LSD. 417hp, 369lb/ft
    1971 3.0CS E3 2dr Alpina Special Coupe Racer, 347hp, 295lb/ft

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