2003 Ferrari Red M3 3.5L wagon // 2011 Montego Blue tri-turbo 335d wagon
2012 Deep Sea Blue X5d // 2003 Orient Blue 330i wagon
In progress/For Sale: 2003 Alpine White M3/ZHP wagon // 2003 Japan Red M3/ZHP wagon
I still like the cake pan personally. Any know if the 20" cake pan fits the HO8 shroud? I thought it measured 19 and some change, but I can't remember.
98 540i 6, 525 whp, 120 mph 1/4, V3 Si S/C'er @16 psi, W/A I/C, Water/Meth, Supersprint Headers, HJS Cats, 3" Custom Exhaust, UUC Twin Disc, Wavetrac LSD, GC Coil Overs, Monoball TA, AEM FP, Aeromotive FPR, AEM Failsafe AFR/Boost, Style 65's w/275's, M5 Steering Box, Eibach Sways, M3 Shifter, Evans Coolant, 85 Deg Stat, PWM Fan, 10" Subs, B.A. speakers, Grom Aux/BT, Still Rolling as my DD!
I just measured mine... 19-7/8" inner diameter
2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)
Former:
1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)
Yeah, what thickness did you use? I want heavy enough gauge to be stable but not so thick that it's heavy and weighs on the plastic shroud.
I think I can use a bandsaw at my buddy's shop to cut this after I make a template but will have to remove the shroud to do so of course. Which means car down again. Maybe it's time to buy another shroud.
2003 Ferrari Red M3 3.5L wagon // 2011 Montego Blue tri-turbo 335d wagon
2012 Deep Sea Blue X5d // 2003 Orient Blue 330i wagon
In progress/For Sale: 2003 Alpine White M3/ZHP wagon // 2003 Japan Red M3/ZHP wagon
2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)
Former:
1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)
I've used 0.08 or 2 mm thickness. I forgot what grade but it was better grade than some cheap stuff out the there. I have reused shroud on 540 but bought new one on 528. I'd recommend getting new one as old one is already stressed by years of heat and it may crack since it's not designed to carry extra weight and vibration. Also, if I ever sell the car I can keep my Spal setup if new owner prefers stock clutch fan.
2010 BMW M6 SMG Coupe * Black Saphire Metallic * Full Leather Merino Black
2019 BMW X3 M40i * Alpine White * Mocha Leather
Former:
1997 BMW 532M (528i with 3.2 S52 engine from E36 M3 / 5 speed manual)
1998 BMW 540i 6 Speed
2003 BMW M5
I've changed my mind. I'm going to look for some beefy 3/4" aluminum channel stock and weld some standoffs to the existing cake pan, then mount it. I don't even think closing the small 3/4" gap around the fan is all that critical for cooling, especially when the aux fan can already keep the engine cool all by itself and having a powerful e-fan will just add a huge capacity to the system.
Further, I'm hoping my low temp t-stat is here from Europe soon so I can re-do the cooling system and fan and my busted aux heater valve all at the same time and really be in good shape for summer. Hoping to keep temps about 25 degrees lower than stock from now on.
2003 Ferrari Red M3 3.5L wagon // 2011 Montego Blue tri-turbo 335d wagon
2012 Deep Sea Blue X5d // 2003 Orient Blue 330i wagon
In progress/For Sale: 2003 Alpine White M3/ZHP wagon // 2003 Japan Red M3/ZHP wagon
good question... in fact if someone found a shop (more a sheet-metal shop than a machine shop for those who delineate such things... but nitpicking) who would make one, I am pretty sure you could find buyers for a dozen or so pretty quickly... 540san you want to make a few bux for beer while helpin out your bros?
2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)
Former:
1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)
It was mentioned earlier that there may be some reliability problems with the Derale fan controller.
I used a Derale on a special project on a Jeep Cherokee to make an after run circuit for the existing electric fan. I could bore you with poor Chrysler design that created the need but I won't
The short answer is I DID HAVE PROBLEMS with the Derale. I am on my third unit. I did however figure out where the issue was coming from. The controller itself is water tight but the wire harness and connectors are not. My original install had the controller under the hood in a horizontal position with the relay tab sticking straight up, perpendicular to the roadway. When I would run through standing water or when I cleaned the engine looking for an oil leak, things would get wet in the engine bay. After speaking with a Derale tech support person, which by the way they were great to deal with, he suggested two remedies. The first was to mount the control with the relay tab oriented parallel to the roadway or even upside down so that water would not lay in the multi pin connector of the harness nor around the base of the relay and its contacts. The second was to eliminate the temperature sender connector and to hard wire and heat shrink the connection.
Apparently the water in and around the connectors, especially with winter/salty water here in Ohio, was creating strange and unintended current paths that were damaging the controller circuitry. This was evident by a wet controller chattering the relay and then it stopped functioning.
The third unit has been installed for a little over a year. I installed it with the relay oriented sideways/parallel to the ground and the temperature sender connector eliminated and hard wired. Previously the first two units wouldn't last 60 days.
I really liked the user who put his fan controller and all of his switching inside a project box that protected it all from the elements. If I had the Jeep project to do over or if I modify my 540i, I will use the project box method.
My 2 cents and personal experience.
Unfortunately, my neighbor who supplied the aluminum piece and cut it for me, has left the company and therefore lost access to machine shop which he was supervisor of. I honestly didn't think of asking him for the file which is great idea by the way.
On the other hand, the cuts are designed to fit particular Spal fan and while I'm huge fan of it (I have 3 identical Spal fans on all 3 of my bimmers) some people may prefer other brand.
- - - Updated - - -
I'll gladly help for free but check my response to fmzip which explains potential issue.
Last edited by jstern; 05-19-2015 at 11:28 AM.
Much modified VF Supercharger Kit tuned by Tuning Tech FS, M5 front sports seats, CVV to catch can conversion, Boost Gauge, Schmiedmann header to rear muffler high flow exhaust, Header Ceramic coated inside & out, Exhaust heat wrapped from flanges after header to before CATs, Kicker sub with dedicated 200 watt amp, CCFL angel eyes, CF facelift kidney grills, Quaife LS diff ,Super duty cooling kit, Electric fan controlled by temperature adjustable 2 speed controller (JimLev design)
John
still following... good stuff
It's working perfect.
Today I decided to wire up the over ride switch since I am going on a 300 mile trek soon. Took the same 12v hot wire that I used to the Derale and split it "Y". Then I fed the 12V to one side of a switch. Then took the green wire, fed that to the other side of the switch. Turned the switch on, the fan wouldn't turn on as it should with the over ride switch.
Tested everything with a meter, I have 12v across the switch when I flip it on. Ideas?? Pretty straight forward directions
http://static.summitracing.com/globa.../der-16749.pdf
Did you have the ignition on?
Check out the Q and A at the bottom of page 2 in your link.
Yes, ignition on.........
I read the questions and answers Jim, Doesn't look like I am missing anything.
12v and green wire should turn the fan off with all the other wires still connected, correct? Just would like a manual over ride if this thing were to ever die. Put some cutters in the trunk, could always just take power directly to the fan in the worst case scenario but I'd prefer to have this thing work.
Q: Why doesn’t the electric fan turn on when I turn on the A/C or Manual Switch?
A: To quickly test the Manual Override Circuit, disconnect the Green wire and run a jumper wire directly to the Positive (+)
terminal on the battery. Electric fan should start immediately. If fan started reattach the Green wire to the proper (+) wire
on the A/C clutch or Manual Switch.
It's basically saying remove the switch you just installed to see if the switch is defective. I have a switch between the 12v and green, it should work. And Yes the switch is on
Might be a good excuse to try that Hayden 3655 controller..
Last edited by fmzip; 08-22-2015 at 11:39 PM.
I bought this controller for my 540 as yet it's untested but will be soon.
One of these three things can occur.Took the same 12v hot wire that I used to the Derale and split it "Y". Then I fed the 12V to one side of a switch. Then took the green wire, fed that to the other side of the switch.
- Bad switch
- Blown fuse
- Defect controller.
Last edited by 16valex; 08-23-2015 at 09:24 AM.
I tested the switch, it works.
There is no fuse, straight hot to the green wire.
The controller still works fine other than this green wire.
Guess I will call Derale tomorrow
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