1999 e36 m3 crank position sensor issues

[e30lov]

My car is misfiring and hesitating. It's throwing a P0340 code and a P0133 code. I replaced the cam position sensor using a m52 one, and I have replaced the crank position sensor with a new one. When I replaced the cam sensor the car showed the same symptoms. When the crank position sensor was swapped in the car will not start. I exchanged the part for another one thinking it was a faulty new one. The car still does not start. When I swap my old crank position sensor back in, the car will start but will run rough as usual.

Where do I go from here? I did a little digging and apparently there was a recall for the crank sensor wiring. If this was never preformed, would this be causing the new crank sensor not to work?

[bmwdirtracer]

Were the sensors you bought OEM or BMW items, or did you get them at Autozone? Are the plugs identical to your old one?

I'm pretty sure the recall for CPS wiring was on older E36's, swapping voltages 5 to 12, or vice versa, and using a wiring pigtail which accomplished that. I'm pretty sure the '99 CPS requires no adapting pigtail, and wires directly to the back of the engine, under the starter. There were two different plugs used at this location, so you'll want to be very sure you're buying a correct OEM or BMW factory sensor.

Never, ever buy EBay, Autozone, or any NON-OEM sensor for your BMWs. Personally, I like them to come in a white BMW box.

[e30lov]

Update,

my car has a 02/99 build date,

I replaced the cam sensor and crank sensor with OEM BMW units. Car is still having the same problems...

[bmwdirtracer]

I just googled your P-codes, because I don't use p-codes to diagnose BMW's ordinarily....because they are grossly inaccurate.

P0340 shows as being intake cam position sensor. Have you tried watching values for cam position and vanos on a good diag computer?
0133 shows "Oxygen sensor slow response". In which case, I'd recommend replacing the 2 primary O2 sensors.
I'm not sure why you bought a crank sensor.?

I see there is still an adapting pigtail for '99s. You might want to see that the plugs for that are in good shape; you might have moved them around when swapping sensors?

[Bushytails]

So I am having an issue as well, mine says that it has a Cylinder 4 misfire and the CPS is throwing code as well. Any thoughts? I just put the manifold back on after replacing the starter, vacuum lines, coolant hoses and Oil water separator. Didn't have the issue until I put some fuel system cleaner in the car since it had been sitting for a couple of months. Any thoughts?

[bmwdirtracer]

Welcome to the forum.
"CPS" is not a good description, so please be specific. Crankshaft Position Sensor fits that bill, but so does Cam Position Sensor , and on some engines, Intake Cam Sensor and Exhaust Cam sensor.

What device are you using to read the codes? If you're reading P-codes through and OBD code reader, that's not a viable resource. You need to be reading BMW codes through aBMW specific scan tool, using the 20-pin diagnostic connector underhood.

What's an oil water separator?

Furl system cleaner doesn't do anything to fix old gas. A couple of months should be just fine, but for future reference, the only fix for old gas is to replace it with new gas.

[Bushytails]

So what I am assuming is the Camshaft Position Sensor. It's throwing the check engine light, having trouble starting, loses power as I wind out the engine, and does still misfire. Yeah the tank was practically empty when I let the car sit while I did repairs on it. I mean, I don't have access too something that expensive, but I did have the code read and it did say camshaft position sensor. Plus it's eating gas faster than my '89 S10, which I am assuming is related to it misfiring.

[bmwdirtracer]

G.I.G.O.

Sorry, I have no valid information.

A BMW specific diag tool can be bought for $150, plus $20 for the cord to connect it to your diag port underhood. In the long run, this will save you a TON of money.

Any decent BMW shop can read the exact codes, and perform the smoke test necessary to find the intake leaks you almost certainly have. And, relating to losing power in the top end, maybe fuel pressure and volume are inadequate too.

Certainly, a cylinder 4 misfire indicates a bad coil, and throw a set of STOCK plugs at it while you're there.

A bit of proper testing, and basic maintenance, will point to what you need. Reading codes with an OBD reader, and "assuming" they mean cam sensor, will just end up with your buying crap parts at a local auto parts store, which don't work, and only confuse the actual issues.

IF you buy a camshaft sensor, make very sure that you buy an OEM part from a BMW specialist supplier. I recommend FCP Euro or Pelican Parts or RM European.

[bmwdirtracer]

http://www.foxwelltool.com/wholesale...0-scanner.html

http://www.foxwelltool.com/wholesale...installed.html

Yes, this shows $179; the $150-160 comes up every week or so.

[Bushytails]

Man, the car has 300k on the clock, I am sure there is a lot of components wrong with it that I am not aware of. Yeah, il probably pick one of those up if they are that cheap, I assumed it was going to be $500 plus. I am going to check and see if it is the coil pack, that is honestly the most ideal situation, though Camshaft Position Sensors (CPS) are not that expensive. I get all my parts from FCP Euro (can't beat their warranty) and Rockauto.

I am still learning as I go, that's why I come to the forums. I do need a tester though. It has OEM equivalent plugs in it already, I only use Bosch. No need to get any hotter burning plugs since the engine is stock anyway. Fuel pump is fairly new (3 years old with only 40-50K miles on it), has new fuel lines and a new fuel filter.

It is throwing the misfire but it also is throwing a bad Camshaft Position Sensor (CPS). That is why I am saying I should look there as well and if it isn't it at least I get a new Camshaft Position Sensor (CPS) out of the ordeal. However, I am going to see if that coil is bad and pull the spark plug to see how it is burning.

I am definitely going to order that tester though, cause that will save a lot of time and money in the long run.

[bmwdirtracer]

Gently pull back the rubber boot of the cam sensor plug, if yours has this, and check whether the wires look burned. This was fairly common on some E36s, but I don't remember which ones.