FOR RENT: Rear Subframe Bushing Remover/Installer Tool for E39 Sedan AND Touring

[zink]

Not sure what you're referring to. The threaded bolts on the tool? PM me and I can give you more pics, etc.

Thanks- I meant the extra long bolts but not sure if it was on his diy; let me re-read and will pm if needed.

[M5 Jed]

The 4 extra long bolts are not included in my tool. Those are used with another similar tool to drop the complete subframe by about 6" so you can then replace the bushings all the same time. My tool works the same way in the extraction and installation of the bushings but does away with the 4 long bolts because they are not needed if you just lower the rear subframe one side at a time. Remove the 2 large bolts on one side, loosen the other 2 bolts on the other side gain even more room, then lower the subframe to assemble tool in place. The 4 OEM large subframe bolts can be used in the same manner as those 4 long bolts to hold the subframe in place, but always having a floor jack supporting all the weight at the diff.

[zink]

thanks for the clarification! that's what i thought that it was another diy/tool

[evilrho]

So after driving the car for a week with the new bushings, I can certainly feel a difference. However, a noticeable shuddering and vibration still exists when going over bumps at low speed. I'm wondering if this is just the way the tourings are, or if there's another set of bushings (like the rear diff bushings) or shocks that ought to be replaced. Anyone have thoughts on this?

Thanks.

[M5 Jed]

Will be easy to check the diff bushings. With a flashlight you can see if there are cracks on them.

For the front diff bushing, it's a gigantic PITA to install a new one because the new rubber bushing needs to be compressed down the the size of the mount. A solution I came up with for the M5 community was a solid billet aluminum front diff bushing. Aside from the trouble with compressing the new front diff rubber bushing, the M5s are notorious for breaking/snapping off the front diff mount because of the amount of torque from the drivetrain and the front rubber bushing being frequently overlooked. If left in place too long, the worn bushing permits movement of the diff. The diff starts to bob up and down, the impact of the movement puts undue stress on the mount, and a hard enough launch will snap off the mount.

Cue in... the Unicorn Egg.

[evilrho]

Wow! That is a thing of beauty.

I'll check this bushing soon. Doubt it's too bad, since this is just a 528i.

I'm starting to wonder if the culprit of the shuddering could be shocks or shock mounts, or something maybe ball joints/control arms in the rear.

The car handles and feels great on smooth pavement, but light bumps are not so good.

[cybervette]

Could you please add me to the list for the tool? I have my parts and am ready to go as soon as the tool is available.

Thanks

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Not sure if it matters but I just updated my profile info from my last post requesting your bushing tool.

[M5 Jed]

Updating the reservation list.

1. evilrho
2. eawM5 - current renter
3. zink
4. Rusting
5. cybervette

[Plattus1000]

Anyone interested in the fact that Jed just finished an e34 touring with an S50 and 5 speed swap?

I want pics! That's an incredible amount of work.

[jp5Touring]

Anyone interested in the fact that Jed just finished an e34 touring with an S50 and 5 speed swap?

I want pics! That's an incredible amount of work.

Link to build thread Jed, please

[M5 Jed]

Anyone interested in the fact that Jed just finished an e34 touring with an S50 and 5 speed swap?

I want pics! That's an incredible amount of work.

Dang it Lee! Creating more work for me. Thanks a lot!

[M5 Jed]

Link to build thread Jed, please

No build thread but I did take tons of pics throughout the whole build to show my customer. We'll see. I would post it on the e34 subsection for it to be relevant.

[M5 Jed]

Updating the reservation list. The tool is en route to member zink.

1. evilrho
2. eawM5
3. zink - current renter
4. Rusting
5. cybervette

[Plattus1000]

Dang it Lee! Creating more work for me. Thanks a lot!

C'mon man. You can't tell me about something that cool and expect me not to hoist you up to be recognized for your effort/skill. I don't even like the e34's and I want to see/drive this thing.

You do too much to let all of it slip past us. Perhaps hiring help would free up your time a bit

Nuth'n but respect.

[MehMan]

I'm just going to share my experience changing the subframe bushings, but using a tool with a bearing makes the job far far far easier than it could be, a simple bearing saves you a lot of grunt work. I managed to do the whole subframe in less than two hours with the proper tool and it was my first time doing it. I used some washing up liquid to slide the new bushings in, worked a treat.

[M5 Jed]

Updating the reservation list. The tool is en route to member Rusting

1. evilrho
2. eawM5
3. zink
4. Rusting - current renter
5. cybervette

[zink]

time to share my experience with the famous bushing diy on a touring: overall, tool is a must and makes the extract and install easy (that was the easy part ; everything else was the hard part ). I have worked previously on engine bay and misc car parts but not rear bushings (once on a lower front control arm and it was pita too)

started around 9am

1-first, do not try to put cars on ramps as i tried to do since no one mentioned this on the thread (was not sure if it is doable like that or not as i was nervous about the jack stands and lifting car from differential) and the jack stands i had where walmart quality ...
2- i had to take out the wheels (also was not mentioned or maybe i missed it) as the access to the bushings was much easier. also you would have better access to remove the rear air bag sensors (self leveling on a 99 528i did not have much slack in the wires). i ended up breaking the plastic tabs on both removing from under the car - the passenger side one is a pita removing from under the car.
(at this stage i was already getting frustrated with back and forth trying and learning how to prep and have not gotten to the bushings yet!)
3-i loosened up the four bolts on the bushings before raising the car (when i had first tried the ramps) since was not sure how much force they needed once the car is lifted with the differential
4-after lifting car from diff then barely resting on jack stands (minimum length - i did not extract them first all the way up or half way),i loosened all 4 bushings bolts then inserted the driver side ones rotating them about 10 times.
5-then, not sure what to expect i started lifting the car again !! lifting and lifting , but not seeing the bolts on the passenger side drop , lol .... so after another frantic moment i lowered it back half way too fast to rest on the extended jack stands (i extended them a little more) and then saw the rear bushings dropping a little more on the passenger side; that's when i realized i was doing the opposite thing: i needed to drop the differential/car - so i started dropping until the bushings on passenger side where out of the body extensions (small round tubes).
6-time to insert the tool for extraction: however, when trying to put the upper parts, i realized there was not enough space, so again dropped the car some more.
7-it took me some frantic moments to get how the tool is supposed to be positioned for removal - the pic in the instruction sheet was not clear and i though the teeth would latch on an upper metal lid not the other way around (pushing up against metal lid while starting rested on the soft bushing led) - i took some pictures for next installer to make it clear.
8-the extraction was easy: lubricated the long bolt and worked slowly as the bushings easily slid out (91k miles)
9-moving to the front passenger bushing, again i found out not enough space on top, so lowered the car some more (i just did not know how much to lower since the start and was concerned how much low is too low)
10- installation has a bigger part on top - again dropped the car some more ...
11-when re-installing the bolts, i had an extra small floor jack that i used to push the wheel assembly to align and push it up for the bolts to thread to the body of the car (was not sure to lift the differential or not and was already getting impatient )
12-driver side was the same - i just did the extraction for both at the same time and then installation. re-inserting the bolts was tricky even with the extra floor jack but probably it was just me being tired. also, i had no issues with the exhaust or access so not sure if the 528 is different than 540 where that has been mentioned. Bolts torques to ~104 ft-lb
13- both front old bushings had big cracks and needed change badly (car is 1999 with 91k miles)

break for first food and coffee of the day ~ 1:30 pm

14-took the car for a spin: i immediately noticed the subtle but clear difference: no more bone shaking jolts from the back - defintely smoother (that was my main complaint)
15-came back this time put the car on ramps to change the rear shocks: easy job - except it decided to rain/thunderstorm while extracting the first shock.
16-like mentioned on some other threads, the old shocks seemed the same as the new one (compressing and decompressing) i.e. i felt they were still fine; but it was too late and i already had the new parts so proceeded as planned. the mounts and other parts where still mint so did not use the new ones that i had.
17-torquing the lower bolts attaching the shocks to the car was pita (115 ft-lb).
18-tried to change the rear sway links bars, access from under car using wrench 16, and then realized both nuts upper and lower were just spinning with the bolts. Called it a day and left that for my mechanic as he will be doing the front struts and steering rack (leaking).

overall, glad i did the job but again proved to me suspension work is not easy esp. if you don't have lift and proper tools. another note is that lifting and lowering the car from differential (i just had the foam pad not a piece of wood) was shifting the car forward slowly as the jack stands touch points kept edging backwards so keep that in mind.

here are some pics:


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IMG_2748.jpg

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[M5 Jed]

Glad to see the tool helped make the job easier Zink. This DIY is best to do on a lift but very doable on the ground, will just take more elbow grease and time. Enjoy the better ride quality!

[jp5Touring]

FCP Euro has Meyle HD sub frame bushings on clearance $34.10 That's a steal.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...d-3003331111hd

[M5 Jed]

What a deal!!! Thanks for posting. I ordered a couple of sets for the next few builds.

[M5 Jed]

LOL! WTF???

Did any you guys get some?

[jp5Touring]

That SUCKS, Like two will come in handy ?? I didnt order any,was ordering parts for my now non running winter beater.

[blackknight530i]

That SUCKS, Like two will come in handy ?? I didnt order any,was ordering parts for my now non running winter beater.

They would if you put sedan front m5 bushings in and run the m5 traction bars

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[M5 Jed]

Yeah that was what I was planning. Would have had a nice stockpile for a while.

[nauqneyugn]

My order went through. Will add myself to the list once I finish timing guides!