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Thread: FOR RENT: Rear Subframe Bushing Remover/Installer Tool for E39 Sedan AND Touring

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Orange County, CA
    Posts
    1,883
    My Cars
    2000 Dinan S2 M5T

    FOR RENT: Rear Subframe Bushing Remover/Installer Tool for E39 Sedan AND Touring

    Sup fellow Touring nerds! I've received quite a number of request to rent out this tool since posting the M5 hybrid bushing/torsion bar retrofit post and felt guilty just letting the tool sit in my garage not doing anybody any good. So to help those that need this repair done, I've decided to rent it out for a small fee. This is an expensive tool and I need to hedge against any loss or damage that might occur while its being used by others. I've outlined below my rules for renting the tool, I've tried to keep it simple and very transparent. I ain't no spring chicken and have dealt with just about every mal-intent out there, so for the tool's sake and this community's sake, I respectfully ask that if you want to rent the tool, you must adhere to the rules listed below.

    Initial Deposit: $350 (retail price shipped to my door when I purchased it earlier this year).
    Rental Fee: $50 for 1 week (7 days including a full weekend).
    Shipping Fee: USPS Priority Mail Large Flat rate box $17.00 paid by outgoing renter only.
    Refundable Deposit: $300 upon safe and undamaged return of the tool to me or to the next user.

    To eliminate any confusion, this is how I imagined this will play out...

    Member A: Sends me deposit via Paypal for $350 via Paypal as a gift only, NO exceptions to this rule. This is essentially my insurance policy and will remain in my Paypal balance held "in escrow".

    Jed: I ship the tool to Member A's shipping address, I absorb the first shipping cost to get the ball rolling.

    Member A: Keeps tool for 1 week or less to do the job, just depends on their time. Please, please pre-order the bushings first and make sure you have them before renting the tool. The last thing we want is the tool to be stuck at someone else's house while they wait for their new bushings.

    Member B: Sends me deposit via Paypal for $350 as a gift only, NO exceptions.

    Jed: Will provide instructions to either return the tool back to me or shipping information of the next member B who rented the tool.

    Member A: Ships tool to Member B via USPS Priority Mail Large Flat Rate Box for $17 and provide tracking information (sender pays shipping this one time only).

    Member B: Receives tool from Member A, verifies to Jed tool is complete with no missing parts and undamaged.

    Jed: Refunds to Member A total of $300 via Paypal sent as a gift and keeps $50 as a rental fee.

    Member A: Receives $300 deposit and enjoys a new, solid, comfortable ride with their touring.


    I'm sure you all catch the pattern forming above. Only verification I require that the tool is undamaged and complete is a couple of cell phone pics from the recipient of the tool.

    Some additional common sense rules for the tool's and everybody's benefit:

    1. ALWAYS READ INSTRUCTIONS FIRST ON HOW TOOL IS ASSEMBLED FOR REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF BUSHING!!!!!!!
    2. Never leave the tool unattended.
    3. Never leave the tool out in the elements (rain, snow, sun, sand, dirt, etc.)
    4. Never drop the tool
    5. Never use air tools or electric tools to turn the tool - use hand tools only!!!
    6. Always apply grease on the threaded rod to keep it lubricated.
    7. Always double check and triple check that the Allen-head screws that hold the tool together are tight but do not overtighten, you can strip the Allen-head screw easily.
    8. Never exert excessive force on the tool and the threaded rod - if unnecessary force is applied, the thrust bearing and/or threaded rod can be damaged and that is it, tool won't turn, you won't be able to finish the job and you won't get your $300 deposit back. You just bought yourself an expensive paperweight.

    I tried to be thorough and transparent above, if I missed anything or if you have a better idea, please feel free to suggest it. I will post some pics below of the tool and any helpful tips on doing the bushing replacement.

    So if you're interested in renting the tool, please put your name down on the list below.

    1.
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    10.



    Updated DIY for the rear subframe R&R. Thank you CCe46m3 for taking the time to do the write up!!!

    As I was reading post #4 about removing 2 bolts at the same time and wondered a while which 2 I should remove. I finally figured I should remove either the driver/passenger side as pair for the subframe to drop side way. I also found that having someone to help push the tire forward to line up the hole will make the installation much easier.

    Tools and parts needed: New Subframe Mounts (4), this rental tool set, Floor Jack, Jack Stands, Wheel Chocks, (1) 12mm wrench, 21mm socket and socket wrench, 1/2in Torque Wrench, (1) phillips screw driver to open up the box, Grease (Multipurpose/Hi-Temp/General/Bearing etc), Windex or Soap Water Mix.

    Open the tool box. Inspect all pieces of the tool kit and read the instruction card. Ask M5 Jed if there are any questions or concerns.

    1. Find a level ground.
    2. Jack the diff off the ground about 18-20 inches using the diff housing (Avoid touching the diff rear end cover, place the jack an inch or so forward from the back). The higher the car, the easier to use the tool later but make sure your front bumper don't hit the ground.
    2. Place jack stands at the rear jack points near the rear wheels.
    3. Remove the jack and let the car sit on the jack stand. Place wheel chokes in front of front wheels. Check stability of the car. Don't go underneath if the car isn't stable.
    4. Jack the diff up again and have the factory jack point pads barely touching the jack stands. The idea is to support most of the weight by the floor jack at this point.
    5. Unclip the plastic holder of the splash guards/wheel liners. Loosen all four subframe mount bolts for about 2 inches using the 21mm socket.
    6. Lower the jack and let the diff drop with about 0.5 inches left on the bolts.
    7. Remove the 2 driver side bolts (front and rear) then lower the jack enough so there is enough room to install the tool on the top side.
    8. Spray lubrication fluid (PB blaster, 50/50 mix of acetone&power steering fluid, etc) at the top and bottom edges of the subframe mounts.
    9. Install tool per instruction card for mount removal. Make sure the long stud is clean and greased up before use.
    10. Remove both mounts on the driver's side with a 12mm wrench and the supplied 24mm wrench. Wait a few seconds for the mounts to deform back to shape if the nut is too tight to turn.
    10. Once the driver's side mounts are removed, take a few minutes to clean the surrounding subframe carrier.
    11. Spray lubrication fluid (windex, etc) on the new mounts and inner surface of the subframe carrier cylinder. Install tool per instruction card for mount installation.
    12. Line up the arrows on top of the new mount to the front and back of the car (longitudinal). Install the new mounts.
    13. Jack the diff and bring the subframe mounts up near the chassis mounting holes.
    14. Install the subframe mount bolts and plates while having someone to help push the rear wheel to line up the assembly.
    15. Repeat Steps 7-14 for the passenger side mounts.
    16. Tighten all 4 bolts and torque them to 140Nm or 103 lb-ft.
    17. Reinstall the plastic clips.
    18. Make sure nothing is around underneath the car then jack up the diff high enough to remove the jack stand.
    19. Lower the car, remove the wheel chocks and go for a test drive.
    20. Clean all components inside the tool box, put them back where they should be including the instruction card. Ship it to the next guy by USPS Priority Mail Flat Rate Medium Box.
    21. Notify M5 Jed with tracking number.

    Easy Peasy!
    Last edited by M5 Jed; 05-05-2016 at 10:02 AM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2009
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    2000 Dinan S2 M5T

    FOR RENT: Rear Subframe Bushing Remover/Installer Tool for E39 Sedan AND Tou...

    Some pics of the tool itself.






    Last edited by M5 Jed; 05-16-2014 at 03:19 AM.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Lexington, KY
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    215
    My Cars
    99 540it Wagon
    does this tool work as well as the franklin tool? Looks like you have dropped your rear subframe completely??

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2009
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    This tool works just as well if not better than the Franklin tool. I think the Franklin tool is a Touring bushing specific tool. My tool does both sedan and touring bushings. Look at the first 2 pics, the subframe is still on the car. You don't need to remove the subframe completely, just remove 2 bolts at a time and loosen the other two bolts about an inch to permit you to lower the subframe enough to slip the push plate above the bushing. Just support entire assembly on a jack.

    The 3rd pic shows the tool working in sedan mode. It was just circumstance that the M5 sedan subframe was off the car because we had taken it to the welder to weld in the Dinan reinforcement plate.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    socal
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    528itouring
    I got done with using m5 jeds tool. Having used both the Franklin tool and the Koch one. I must say, the Koch set up feels a lot less bulky. They both work great. The Franklin uses a big cylinder while the Koch uses two locking arms for removal.

    One thing I did notice was that I didn't find it necessary to use the longer bolts that jase 007 recommends.The subframe sat steady on my jack. With either tool, the job is relatively simple. There's just a lot of wrenching. I knocked out the job in under three hours. Just me. With help you can take it down in half the time. The Koch tool is very efficient in getting the job done.

  6. #6
    geargrinder's Avatar
    geargrinder is offline Having No Trouble Here BMW CCA Member
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    I'm so bummed that Jed's whole Sedan+M5-brace discovery wasn't really figured out as an option when I just did mine, otherwise I'd be rockin that setup too. This is awesome to have another tool available esp one that does both in light of that mod.

    But at any rate - not at all unhappy w the solid HD's anyway...
    2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
    2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
    2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
    2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)

    Former:

    1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
    1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)


  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Mandeville, LA
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    131
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    1985 635CSI, 2002 540IT
    I'm in for a rental! I need to order my bushes though. I only see the OEM bushes from bavauto. Can anyone spec a source for the filled or HD bushes? I at least want to use those in the front two spots, they seem to wear faster.

    Thanks,

    Gravity
    2002 540iT, M package, Sport package.
    1985 635CSI survivor

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
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    VA
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    E55/R30/Z31/D21
    M5jed, Did you have good luck with the Dinan subframe mod? I had read they don't fit well. I had my machine guy make his own for my car.

  9. #9
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by RVAE34 View Post
    M5jed, Did you have good luck with the Dinan subframe mod? I had read they don't fit well. I had my machine guy make his own for my car.
    Are you referring to that the small trapezoidal piece to strengthen the front diff mount? If so, yes, its a very easy mod to do. Best to remove the whole subframe and bring it to the welder with the Dinan part. Also a great time to replace all 7 bushings with you're at it. That's how I did mine.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by Gravity View Post
    I'm in for a rental! I need to order my bushes though. I only see the OEM bushes from bavauto. Can anyone spec a source for the filled or HD bushes? I at least want to use those in the front two spots, they seem to wear faster.

    Thanks,

    Gravity


    This is where I ordered my bushings.

    Two rear wagon HD bushes: http://www.eaceuroparts.com/catalog/product/437
    Two front M5 sedan HD bushes: http://www.oembimmerparts.com/BMW_Subframe_Bushing_Mount_By_Meyle_HD_p/33311094036mye39.htm

    Just hit me up when you're ready. There's another local guy who wants to rent it soon, but as of now, it is available and ready to go.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
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    Mandeville, LA
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    131
    My Cars
    1985 635CSI, 2002 540IT
    I bought bushings today but I don't expect them to be in this weekend. Perhaps we can arrange for me to have the tool the weekend after memorial day?

    thanks,

    Gravity
    2002 540iT, M package, Sport package.
    1985 635CSI survivor

  11. #11
    Join Date
    May 2009
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    Yeah that's fine, send me a PM and we'll coordinate the rental. Thanks!

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Lexington, KY
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    99 540it Wagon
    how in the hell do you get the driver's side to drop? mine is resting against the exhaust!!! not enough room to get the puck in there. Using the franklin tool. Passenger side done, relatively easy.

  13. #13
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    You'll need to drop the exhaust, or at the least unbolt the midsection exhaust bracket . This will permit you to lower the exhaust and drop the subframe a bit more.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
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    Lexington, KY
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    ok, so, I moved the jack to the right side and raised it up slightly, so the drivers side was at an angle, and presto! all bushings are done. I was repositioning the subframe to bolt it back in and my jack
    handle has come out. the damn piece is locked in place, now I cant put the handle back in. any tips on how to release it?

  15. #15
    Join Date
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    Are you referring to the handle to pump the jack? You can try using a very large screwdriver to twist the relief valve and release the pressure. That should lower the jack.

  16. #16
    Join Date
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    Shipped out the tool to member Gravity today. If anyone else plans to rent it next please put your name down on the list.

  17. #17
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    1. Gravity - current renter
    2. warrenbrown
    3.
    4.
    5.

  18. #18
    Join Date
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    Awesome, I'll be doing this. Let me sort out the timing and then I'll get in line.
    2000 528i Touring Wagon - Alpine White w/ fine Corinthian Montana leather
    130k mi (daily driver) 6cyl auto. Pics and maint. records available.
    Selling - needing a 4x4 light truck or SUV. PM if interested in purchase or trade.

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
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    Mandeville, LA
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    1985 635CSI, 2002 540IT
    I got the tool Monday in the mail but couldn't work on it until after work today. I didn't expect to finish but the process was pretty smooth. I have 100k on my wagon and I wasn't sure what shape the bushes would be in. I ordered the m5 bushes for the front and the stock bushes for the rear but they looked very similar. One was made by meyle and the other erb (bilstein)? Anyways, the tool came in many pieces so my first reaction was WTF!! There was a laminated card that described what pieces to use for removal and which ones for installation. I thought about it over my first glass of wine and before it was half gone the first one was pressed out. I had plenty of room for all the parts to fit and had the arm on a bottle jack so I could lower it independently of the car, as I thought I needed to. I didn't disconnect the air suspension level sensor as I didn't think it would get that low and it didn't.

    All told, it took me about 2.5 hours from first tool to last tool cleaned and put away. That includes cleaning the bushing tool and repackaging it for the next user. SUPER EASY JOB!! I've done a ton of DIY jobs on many different cars and this has to be about the easiest. I could have done it faster had I owned a 24mm ratchet wrench but maybe saved 30 minutes? My old bushes were torn and cracked. I thought I would save the rears just in case but tossed the lot of them.

    Jed, the tool owner, is super easy to work with and helpful. If you are considering this job I would highly recommend you do it! I have yet to drive the car since the battery died. I have an alternator project scheduled for this weekend. PM me if you have questions about the tool or the process, happy to help in any way I can.

    Gravity
    2002 540iT, M package, Sport package.
    1985 635CSI survivor

  20. #20
    Join Date
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    Thank you very much Gravity for your input and feedback on the bushing job and tool usage. I've sent you a PM of the shipping address of the next renter.

    Tool reservation list:
    1. Gravity
    2. warrenbrown - current renter
    3. bdiefAZ
    4.
    5.
    Last edited by M5 Jed; 06-05-2014 at 12:37 AM.

  21. #21
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by M5 Jed View Post
    This is where I ordered my bushings.

    Two rear wagon HD bushes: http://www.eaceuroparts.com/catalog/product/437
    Two front M5 sedan HD bushes: http://www.oembimmerparts.com/BMW_Su...94036mye39.htm
    Trying to make sure I understand correctly before I start ordering parts. I have a 2000 528iT. Do I need 2 wagon HD bushes for the rear of the subframe and 2 M5 sedan bushes for the front of the subframe (rather than 4 of the wagon HD bushes)? Is there a thread somewhere that details why this combo was decided upon?

    Thanks for the help,

    Eric

  22. #22
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    Eric,

    The hybrid bushing set up is only if you plan to upgrade to the M5 torsion bars. If you don't plant to upgrade/install the torsion bars, you just need to buy 4 wagon bushes. To make the M5 torsion bars completely bolt on, 2 M5 bushes need to be installed on the 2 forward-most subframe bushings. Hopefully this clears up any doubts.

  23. #23
    Join Date
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    85 M635, 00 528iT, 98 Z3
    Well, I have pondered swapping in an M5 rear anti-roll bar (I am assuming this is the same thing as the torsion bar) so it sounds like in preparation for that move I could go ahead and install the 2 M5 bushes. Are there any downsides to using 2 M5 bushes?

    Sorry for all the questions. I appreciate the hand holding.

    Eric

  24. #24
    Join Date
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    Eric the M5 rear anti roll bar is different from the M5 torsion bars. The rear sway bar is definitely a good upgrade, it will reduce you body lean. The torsion bars provide a different benefit, reduces the movement of the rear subframe since it ties the two front bushes of the subframe to the midsection of the chassis via these bars.




  25. #25
    geargrinder's Avatar
    geargrinder is offline Having No Trouble Here BMW CCA Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by M5 Jed View Post
    Eric the M5 rear anti roll bar is different from the M5 torsion bars. The rear sway bar is definitely a good upgrade, it will reduce you body lean. The torsion bars provide a different benefit, reduces the movement of the rear subframe since it ties the two front bushes of the subframe to the midsection of the chassis via these bars.
    When I was crawling around under the M3 the other day I was inspecting its version of those struts. It has more or less an identical designed setup. Occurred to me nothing could be easier to fab up for the 540 as an aftermarket mod - pretty rudimentary reinforcement strut. I'm not sure I'm worried about needing it but would be easy to do if for some reason you didn't want to splash for the real M5 part...
    2003 M3CicM6 TiAg
    2002 540iT Sport Vortech S/C 6MT LSD TiAg
    2008 Audi A3 2.0T DSG (the daily beater)
    2014 BMW X1 xDrive28i (wifemobile)

    Former:

    1985 MB Euro graymarket 300SL
    1995.5 Audi S6 Avant (utility/winter billetturbobattlewagen)


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