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Thread: 96 BMW 328is LS1 to LS2 Conversion Bimerok

  1. #26
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    Very nice!

    Doug


    '97 M3/4

  2. #27
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  3. #28
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    Have some time to catch up on a little update...

    This past Monday. I spent THE WHOLE DAY figuring out what I want to do with the throttle pedal! It is unbelievable how much time it took for me to figure out what I want to do with it and then execute it. But it was time well spent.

    In the previous LS2 swap that we made, the GTO pedal was cut and adopted to BMW plastic pedal with a swivel mechanism that we fabricated. That design, while worked ok, still had few downsides. This time around I made the whole GTO pedal fit instead of cutting it and mating with BMW. I was also able to adjust its position in such a way that it feels incredible and should be amazing for heal & toe! I am very happy with positioning. Also, I don't mind at all that the pedal does not look BMW. At this point it is all function over what the pedal looks like.

    In the past I had a lot of questions about the GTO pedal and how we made it work. This time I will post lots of pictures of the pedal process...

    Once I decided that I will want to adopt the whole pedal, I started separating the original GTO accelerator bracket from the brake pedal cluster. It was held by two spot welds that I drilled out. Then I started to make template out of cardboard of what the bracket should be.



    The whole assembly is going to be held on the two bolts around the steering shaft. One diagonally across from another. Can be seen here.


    Once the cardboard template was made, I started modifying the OEM bracket further and adding new pieces to it with tack welds.





    The pedal would roughly sit like that. Just needed to make the brackets to be able to connect with the two bolts on the chassis.



    So I made two brackets and tack welded them to make sure I got the shape and position correct.





    On the picture below, you can see how the whole bracket now fits with the mounting ears going to the two bolts that hold the whole assembly.



    Once I made sure that the brackets are where they need to be and everything is lined up as I want it to, cut away unneeded edges, cleaned some of the stuff up and fully welded the brackets. Then went over with couple of coats of matte black paint.









    And two last images of the final position of the pedal and the place where it finally got bolted to.





    This concluded the Monday for me and I hope that this time around I have enough of images for the pedal installation to help someone to get an idea of how it is done on my car and what they could do with their swap


    This brings my update to Tuesday. On Tuesday I started the day with fabricating a new power steering pressure line. This is pretty much straight forward process. Below is the picture of the parts before and finished line after



    Cut to length and all assembled.


    Once the PS line was done, I started to concentrate on power distribution wiring. I rerouted few wires around and also got rid of the power wire that GTO had crossing over the oil pan to alternator. I don't have many pictures of that. But the power distribution from passenger side battery block to fuse box to engine was all done and connected on Tuesday.



    Also at the end of the day on Tuesday I sold LS1 from my car and the guys came to pick it up. It sound like it will find a new home in another LS1 powered e36 project. Here is the engine getting strapped and ready for the journey to its new home...


    This was a good conclusion for my Tuesday.

    Today I had to run couple of errands in the morning and mid day and also buy some fluids for my car so I did not get the full day worth of work, but I did start on the part of the swap that most people get shivers from. The Wiring... With the time that I was able to spend on it, I made a pretty good progress and will hopefully finish it up tomorrow. If that happens I might have a video of the start up. Really hoping for it Wiring is a somewhat slow and tedious process.



    Solder every connection and then shrink tube it


    One difference I noticed between my LS1 and LS2 is the O2 sensors are different and the wires on LS2 are also in the different location and are a lot shorter. Shorter to the point where the sensors would not reach it. So to solve this issue, I ordered 2 extensions that will bring the wiring to the correct location and when my new O2 sensors arrive, I will be able to reach the connectors. Hopefully that will solve that.



    That is all I have for today. More to come.
    - 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
    - 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
    - 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)

    - 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
    - 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)

  4. #29
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    Anyway I could bribe you into making a second pedal bracket? That's the only thing that's held me back from converting to drive by wire. Fabbing a mount for the pedal with a full cage in place isn't pleasant.

    Clever solution. Nicely done.
    John
    E36 LS3

  5. #30
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    That's exactly how I've been planning to mount my DBW pedal. I really need to get a small MIG welder.

    Tipsy

  6. #31
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    I'm sorry to hijack, but the recent discussion about the DBW pedal may help with a new development that I've come across. I need to have the input of a separate TPS sensor for a stand alone trans control unit. My first thought was a modified DBW setup. The only catch is that I have to be able to retain the original DBC pedal and it's functionality. Any thoughts are appreciated!
    Last edited by unnatrl; 05-22-2014 at 08:02 PM.

  7. #32
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    Are you wanting a separate sensor or wanting to get readings from the throttle to another module? The tps is just potentiometer so if you are looking for separate I'd look into that.

  8. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by sweetcorn360 View Post
    Are you wanting a separate sensor or wanting to get readings from the throttle to another module? The tps is just potentiometer so if you are looking for separate I'd look into that.
    I need tps ref signal to go into a trans module. Holley doesn't recommend "sharing" the ref signal if at all possible, hence a second tps. I think it's stupid, but my luck says if I try to share the signal there will be issues.

  9. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maynor View Post
    Anyway I could bribe you into making a second pedal bracket? That's the only thing that's held me back from converting to drive by wire. Fabbing a mount for the pedal with a full cage in place isn't pleasant.

    Clever solution. Nicely done.
    Sorry John, but to be honest I don't think I can do another one of these soon. I still have brused rib cage from bending over the doorsill the whole day. I can't imagine the tourture you have to go through with full caged car. However if you have any questions or want to take a look at it in person, we can sure do that.


    As far as progress for today, I still worked on the wiring and did not work as fast as I would've liked, but I think it is still OK and on track. Most of the wiring is connected and I don't want to rush it too much. I still have few small loose ends that I need a lift for, but couldn't get to it as shop was pretty busy today. The attempt to start the car is postponed to tomorrow now.

    Not much to picture from today. Still wires everywhere, but now connected. Started to bundel them little by little. Onece everything is hooked up and working I will be prettying it up.

    Couple more parts arrived today though. I got my O2 sensors and I am panning to install them along with wire extensions tomorrow.



    Also I got the differential flange for 1310 u-joint from JTR for building new driveshaft.



    At the end of the day I was calling the driveshaft place that I dealt with for my previous 2 LS swaps. After talking with them for about 40 min. I got them overnighting a front slip yoke and a center support bearing that he recommended I should try, which should be beefier than BMW or stock GTO and still fit the chassis. Should be here from California by 10am. If everything works out I will take the measurements for new DS and use my old one while waiting on the new shaft to be made.

    Fun to be continued...
    - 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
    - 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
    - 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)

    - 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
    - 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)

  10. #35
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    Quick update from Friday.

    First thing in the morning I looked over the wiring that I was working night before to double check few things. Then taped up few loose ends that are unused and then hooked up battery to see if there are any "sparks" Luckily everything was nice. No smoke, fires or short circuits... Once that was confirmed I disconnected the battery and hooked up the PCM to repeat the process. It was still all good.

    The guys at the shop were busy and I tried not to bother them with anything. So while I hooked up PCM for the dry run, I only was able to position my phone on the chair to see that the DBW throttle body operates ok. Took me a while to make that phone stay on the chair... Nothing exiting, just throttle body. This video was more for myself to see that it works...



    Once everything was confirmed, I cycled ignition few more times to make sure the fuel system is all primed and tried to crank over the car. It started right up! Nice and loud with great rumble of open headers! That made the guys at the shop to break for 2 minutes and walk out side after which they ran back inside to continue working what they were

    That was happy moment for me and reminded me the other times when the engine starts for the first time after a swap. I was pretty happy. Sorry no video of that start up as I had no one to hold the camera, but it would be exactly the same type of video of the start ups with open headers for few seconds as no coolant or anything else was connected...

    After that start, I moved on to put back the front of the car... Few pix of that are below.

    Radiator is in


    Rad support and misc stuff is on




    Also yesterday I got all of the fluids in the car, put my O2 sensor extension wires on - that was a huge pain in the ASS. If anyone is doing LS2 swap, make sure you extend front O2 sensor wires!!! I forgot to do that and did not remember it from our first LS2 conversion and boy was it not fun....

    In any case, they got on, I put my original drive shaft back and exhaust on. The center support bearing that I got yesterday for 2 piece DS did not work as a direct bolt on, so the new drive shaft will be a separate project that I will be doing at a later time, but I think I got the idea on how to make it work... Just need to have separate time for that, etc...

    Ok, I need to run to the shop to finish up under the hood and assembling the car. Still have few odd ends to wrap up...
    Last edited by bimerok; 08-02-2015 at 09:38 PM.
    - 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
    - 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
    - 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)

    - 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
    - 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)

  11. #36
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    Congrats! !!

  12. #37
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    Yay!!! It is alive

  13. #38
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    ^ Thanks guys!

    Today I'm pretty tired after the whole week of playing with this car... I hid all the left over wiring (no picture of that), made a temporary intake set up until I get the right set up going. Also finished assembling the front of the car.






    What I still have left to do is connect my tachometer through the Dakota Digital box and hook up the OBDII port. This still did not stop me from a quick test drive... Boy oh boy will it be a fun one car compared to LS1...

    Few teasers

    First Test Drive part 1


    First test drive part 2


    Second test drive by Niel


    Quick walk under the car
    Last edited by bimerok; 08-02-2015 at 09:40 PM.
    - 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
    - 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
    - 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)

    - 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
    - 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)

  14. #39
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    Wait, is that a tow hitch? Never noticed that before.. Sounds good!
    John
    E36 LS3

  15. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by bimerok View Post
    Also at the end of the day on Tuesday I sold LS1 from my car and the guys came to pick it up. It sound like it will find a new home in another LS1 powered e36 project. Here is the engine getting strapped and ready for the journey to its new home...
    Is it going in another E36?


    Quote Originally Posted by bimerok View Post
    I ordered 2 extensions that will bring the wiring to the correct location and when my new O2 sensors arrive, I will be able to reach the connectors...

    ...Also yesterday I got all of the fluids in the car, put my O2 sensor extension wires on - that was a huge pain in the ASS. If anyone is doing LS2 swap, make sure you extend front O2 sensor wires!!! I forgot to do that and did not remember it from our first LS2 conversion and boy was it not fun....
    What exactly was a huge pain in the ass? Those extensions look like they're plug and play. Could you not reach the connectors once the harness was in place? Or did you have to splice in an additional extension?

    Looks great!

    Tipsy

  16. #41
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    Tipsy,

    I know in my connectors, the stock location is just in a terrible spot to reach with the engine in the car. I put extensions on and that new connector location is good to get at then. Just do it before you install the engine.

  17. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maynor View Post
    Wait, is that a tow hitch? Never noticed that before.. Sounds good!
    It is a tow hitch I bought a small harbor freight trailer that will be used for transporting tires to and from the track... Got tired of putting them in the car and plus with the roll bar it is even "more fun"... Still in the process of registering that trailer through PennDOT. Its been 3 months now. Bunch of .... (fill in the blanks)

    Quote Originally Posted by TipsyMcStagger View Post
    Is it going in another E36?
    Tipsy
    Yes, the guy who got it will be putting it in another e36.

    Quote Originally Posted by TipsyMcStagger View Post
    What exactly was a huge pain in the ass? Those extensions look like they're plug and play. Could you not reach the connectors once the harness was in place? Or did you have to splice in an additional extension?

    Looks great!

    Tipsy
    Quote Originally Posted by sweetcorn360 View Post
    Tipsy,

    I know in my connectors, the stock location is just in a terrible spot to reach with the engine in the car. I put extensions on and that new connector location is good to get at then. Just do it before you install the engine.
    ^ This. The location of the O2 wires on the engine is in very bad spot on LS2. It is right around top of the trans bell housing. Once the engine is in the car, it is almost impossible to get to and two, you most likely won't have enough wire on O2 sensor to reach there anyway.

    To solve this issue, you can cut the O2 connector and extend it so it sits lower and accessible form the bottom of the car or buy extension harness that will let you do the same thing. 12" is more than enough of extension. But regardless of the method you chose make sure you do this before the engine is in the car! That was my pain in the ass trying to connect extension while the engine was in the car. You can't reach there, so I had to drop the trans cross member to be able to reach one of the connectors.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Also found another small video that I did not post yesterday...

    Last edited by bimerok; 08-02-2015 at 09:41 PM.
    - 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
    - 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
    - 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)

    - 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
    - 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)

  18. #43
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    That sounds amazing. Love the pedal.

  19. #44
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    Congrats Leo!

    Doug


    '97 M3/4

  20. #45
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    Thanks guys!

    One more thing to note is that LS2 spark plug wires are slightly different and the spark plug connector is a bit longer than LS1. This made 2 most forward wires to touch my ABS line on one side and being very close to the primary tube on header on the other side. This is not a big deal and I ordered a new set of LS3 wires that based on the pictures look just like the LS1 wires. They should be arriving in the next few days and this slight wire interfirence should be solved by that. If the wires arrive not as pictured, I will return them and jsut get a set of LS1 wires as they worked flawlessly for the past 3 or so years with my LS1.

    Another item I need to address is my intake set up. Right now I have a temp. solution while I figure out what I want to do. Going from LS1 to LS2 ups the size of intage from 3.5" to 4" and I at least need a piece of 4" sillicon hose. If anybody know of a good place to get some silicon hose please share. I do know about SiliconIntakes.com. Any other alternatives?

    Lastly, I will need to eventually take my car/PCM to tuner and to have few things mapped out and have it tuned for my mods as well. But that is not too pressing. Just another to-do item
    - 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
    - 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
    - 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)

    - 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
    - 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)

  21. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by bimerok View Post
    Thanks guys!

    One more thing to note is that LS2 spark plug wires are slightly different and the spark plug connector is a bit longer than LS1. This made 2 most forward wires to touch my ABS line on one side and being very close to the primary tube on header on the other side.
    Agreed. I had a similar issue with one of the wires touching the header on my old LS2 and current LS3 and kept it in place:


    Can you guess which one?

    Oh yeah, GET A TUNE sooner rather than later. I found out, almost the hard way, that the LSx is extremely sensitive to any changes to the intake tract.

    It will run lean (usually) with something even as mild as a different size filter, reclocking of the MAF or in my case, adding a cold air box without a retune. You can do almost anything to the exhaust side without the ECU caring. Not so much on the intake side.

    I've got the A/F differences via dyno chart to prove it. I'll post it when I find it.
    Last edited by Maynor; 05-27-2014 at 08:24 PM. Reason: Tuning comment addition
    John
    E36 LS3

  22. #47
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    Intakehoses.com has been very good to me

  23. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by bimerok View Post
    To our surprise, and we still couldn't figure it out, but either the 95 M3 chassis or the LS2 motor is different somewhere in dimensions compared to my 96 328/LS1. After putting the engine in, we had so much more room around the front x-member to oil pan and the fire wall to the motor that I almost got scared thinking something is missing... I don't really know what is the difference, but LS2 and 95 M3 chassis seems to be roomier Also, LS2 intake is lower profile than LS1/6 which leaves significantly more room for the hood.
    Quoted from your previous LS2 build. Just curious if your impression was the same the second time around?

    Tipsy

  24. #49
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    The clearence between the oil pan and subframe is the same between my LS1 and LS2, but the intake manifold does seem roomier. I can definatley see more room between the intake and firewall.
    - 96 328is 6.0L. (LS1 to LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ad.php?2098938)
    - 96 328is 5.7L. (LS1 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1289987)
    - 95 ///M3 6.0L. (LS2 build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619249)

    - 97 ///M3. (e46 Fender Flares/track car build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1727098)
    - 96 328is (Dual Fuel Pump to Surge Tank thread: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...ad.php?1964025)

  25. #50
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    94 BMW 325is
    You don't have the Vorshlag kit do you?

    In my set up, I needed some custom wires to put short 45 degree ends at the spark plug. I just order some nice ones from Taylor for not a bad price. They have thick wires to help with heat and such or now they have some real low resistance wires to help with spark...supposedly

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