01 740iL E38 No start, no crank, possibly EWS??

[2point5turbo]

Hey guys!
I have a 2001 BMW 740iL with a no crank, no start condition. I drove it earlier that day but when I went to start it later on that evening, nothing. Headlights come on, but do not dim, all other electronics work. Tapped on the starter/solenoid best i could with a 3/8 extension, but nothing. Took the battery out and took it to advance auto and had it load tested, and it passed as good. Tried starting it in Neutral, still nothing. Then, I figured it was the ignition switch, so I replaced that, but nothing changed. Ive checked all the fuses (under the hood and beside the battery) and everything seems ok. The key I have has never been able to unlock the doors, but since this problem Ive tried to reprogram the key (hold unlock, press lock 3 times) but with no luck. I then thought maybe a problem with the EWS module responding so I removed the module from the car, took the board out to look for any burnt spots but i cant find any.
Is there anyway I can just get a used EWS module off ebay, and take it with my current DME and Key and have them synched?
I also went ahead and checked the DME and starter relays (Under DME) for any burn marks, none.
Any help is much appreciated!!

[purplecty]

Try getting the cheapest spare key for testing

[daytonatrbo]

The plastic wallet key for my car was about $50 shipped from Cincinnati BMW and it required no coding to make it work. I did have to re-sync the EWS/DME before the engine would actually fire, but it would crank with the new key.

You don't really have any options for replacing the EWS with a used one. The rolling code table is burned into the ECU. You would have to replace them as a pair, but then your internal ID wouldn't match the other components and it would still require further coding.

[2point5turbo]

I cant replace the EWS module even if I found an exact replacement from the same year that has the all exact same serial numbers? (green print), except for the small etched number in the top right (im assuming that is the vehicle specific code)
I'll try ordering a new key first!

[daytonatrbo]

I cant replace the EWS module even if I found an exact replacement from the same year that has the all exact same serial numbers? (green print), except for the small etched number in the top right (im assuming that is the vehicle specific code)
I'll try ordering a new key first!

No. There is a unique table of rolling codes stored in permanent memory in the EWS. When the EWS is first connected to the car, it writes that code to "one time use" memory in the DME. If you replace the DME with a brand new one, this transaction happens again. But once a DME has a table in it, it stays there. Swapping out the EWS will leave you with a DME that won't respond and won't turn the fuel pump on.

There may be some really hard core coders out there that can wipe out the DME table and copy it from a different EWS, but I'm not aware of anyone that has succeeded in that.

Even still, each component of the immobilizer system, even the stupid little antenna ring around the key hole, has your vehicles' unique ID programmed into it. If you change the EWS you have to either get all the other pieces with it, or you need to recode a bunch of stuff. Some of it I'm not sure can even be recoded.


You can read about my experiences with keys here:

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...for-600s/page4

[IcemanBHE]

Does the gear indicator work when moving thru the gears...it show right in the cluster? If not..its the range switch on the side of the trans.

[2point5turbo]

Yes I can shift thru all the gears and the indicator works properly. I've tried starting it in all gears.

[2point5turbo]

Well turns out it was the key guys, went and got a replacement and she fired right up!

[daytonatrbo]

If you got the plastic key, you can bust the chip out of it and glue it into your old key.

[purplecty]

Glad it worked!

[Old525i]

I am having the same problem with my 2001 e38: no start, no crank. I noticed that on the first start attempt, the cluster showed a "Transmission FailSafe ..." message. I exchanged the battery with a good known one, but same story. All 4 keys show the same behavior.

However, the gear indicator in the cluster does not change when changing gears with the key in the on position.

Could this be an indication that the transmission computer is toasted?

[Nedison]

This is a long shot but did you get the car started? I'm having similar issue.

[Mayorchuck]

This is a long shot but did you get the car started? I'm having similar issue.

The original posters have not been on the forum for years. Have you read thru questions asked within these threads about trying a different key, checking the cluster to see if the transmission position is displaying correctly? What is the condition of your battery? Do you have any warning lights on the dash?

[Nedison]

The original posters have not been on the forum for years. Have you read thru questions asked within these threads about trying a different key, checking the cluster to see if the transmission position is displaying correctly? What is the condition of your battery? Do you have any warning lights on the dash?

Thanks for your response. I will more than likely start a new thread with more specifics on my situation and the ultimate outcome.. Again, I have a 2001 740il... In short, I was doing interior work on the car over the last several weeks and disconnected/reconnected the battery countless times (sometimes with key in ignition). I was also trying to wire an aftermarket radio and I spliced into a Red power wire and Brown ground wire at the ignition. The radio did work.. Prior to me doing any of this work, the car was mechanically fine with no lights on dash.
I tried to start the car for the first time in over a month the other day and got the "no start, no crank" .. Lights on dash, locks work, silent faint alarm under hood...

Battery stayed charging on a tender so it was showing 12.6v (1st time I tried to crank, tender was still connected under hood.. then I disconnected it)
I removed the EWS unit and put the 30 amp fuse in a still nothing
i only checked fuses in trunk and visible 3 rows of fuses under the hood.. they were all good
I did not check to see if the gears were showing up on dash (i think they were)
I didnt check ignition or starter
I did have the thin black wallet key and I tried it with no luck either

I scanned the car using a foxwell nt520 and tons of faults showed up... engine dde digital, transmission, ews immobilizer, ihka, etc.. I cleared them out on the scanner..and waited about 30min..
i tried to start the car again and experienced a total "shut down" effect... as if lights were being turned off at a stadium sound.. It felt like the kill shot.. No power anywhere to the car, even though the battery was still reading 12v.. I left the car alone and came back next morning and it had power again.. It had awaken from the dead, but still no crank start..


I had the car towed to my indy the next day and I hope to hear back from them tomorrow. I have read similar stories, but many of them don't tell the outcome.
using a different key and recoding/swapping the EWS/DME seem to be the main solutions???

As I await feedback from my indy, my ultimate question is can this dreaded electrical issue that leads to a no start/no crank cause what was a perfectly running car to not operate again? or at least not the same? I only ask because so many of these no crank/no start did not end

[Timm]

Total shutdown is not an EWS problem - it was probably an ignition switch or battery connection problem. 12V is more-or-less a dead battery so it could just as likely be a failed battery problem.

[Nedison]

Thank you.. I will report back when I have info

[CPHES]

Have you checked the starter?

[rlmm]

What was the ultimate conclusion with this issue?