Valvetronic Motor reset after Eccetric Sensor replacement

[lberez]

I've replaced the Eccentric Sensor after watching all the videos and reading all the blogs I could find. But the engine won't idle and there is a whining sound coming from the engine after initial startup. The engine never fails to start. Only after it idles at 950-1000 rpms for 30 seconds does it start to go crazy and make the whining sound.

I've read several posts that say you must re-train the valvetronic motor end points, and so I followed their directions too. I made sure the eccentric shaft was all the way in the counter clockwise position and re-installed the Valvetronic motor, then I put the key FOB in and pressed the start button lightly once to bring it into the first position, then I quickly pressed the accelerator pedal to the floor ten times and listened for the motor to cycle and relearn. I never could hear any recycling of the valvetonic motor.

I've also read that the way to reset the Valvetronic motor is to use the BMW Tool that has the option to tell it to re-learn. I really don't want to flat bed this to a dealer.

Does anyone have any information or access to one these BMW Tools? Can I disconnect the Vavletronic motor by unplugging the connector a drive it to a BMW mechanic?

I'm at the limit of my knowledge but eager to learn.

[Tiburon928]

See post 42 and 43 here: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...=697252&page=2

[sckow]

I have a 2007 Z4 with 22k miles that was leaking oil from the valvetronic solenoid...Today I replaced the gasket and now the motor runs like c-rap...I tried the re-learn method as mentioned but have had no luck..let me know how you make out..I too don't want to flat bed it to a local dealer if I dont have too.....Thanks

[lberez]

I have a 2007 Z4 with 22k miles that was leaking oil from the valvetronic solenoid...Today I replaced the gasket and now the motor runs like c-rap...I tried the re-learn method as mentioned but have had no luck..let me know how you make out..I too don't want to flat bed it to a local dealer if I dont have too.....Thanks

sckow,

I have a pretty good feeling that your problem will be solved by removing both solenoids one at a time and cleaning them thoroughly with brake cleaner. Then reinstall. I ran into the same problem after I replaced my Valve Cover Gasket and had to reinstall the Valvetronic motor on the top of my engine. I was getting al sorts of codes. I cleaned the solenoids and dried them using compressed air, reinstalled, cleared the codes. The engine started and idled great after that.

- - - Updated - - -

Well to continue my story...

The retrain methods did not work. So in a last ditch effort to fix my idle problem, I pulled the Valvetronic Solenoids on the front of the engine block, cleaned them, dried them re-installed them and all my problems went away. No more codes except a misfire on cylinder 4 that turned out to be a spark plug that need to be re-gapped. Once I did that all codes where gone. I've run for 2 weeks without a problem until yesterday. We had a real code snap here in new England (in the 20's) and the next day the engine idled rough again. I started the car later in the day and the problem was gone. I'm thinking that this is now a weak valvetronic solenoid. I've read that after 150,000 they probably should be replaced. I will source them and install them in a week. My only problem is I have no way of testing my theory unless the weather drops into the 20's again before summer. So I'll have to wait until winter before I really know if this worked.

[White94RX]

The valvetronic motor cycles itself when you turn on the key. I NEVER do the learn procedure after removing and installing them. Which obviously over the years has been thousands of them. Never had a single problem. Ever.

[Dvcedmolswe]

This posts is very informative. Thank you!

[Three Thirty I]

I have posted on various threads me experience of the time I had the valvetronic motor replaced by an indy (only reason for letting them do it was due to me not having the BMW tool to perform the fine calibration). Problem was, they fitted the new valvetronic motor but instead of performing the basic end stop sweep, they tried to do the fine calibration immediately. When I collected the car it drove really badly, was very rough, not so much in terms of idle or running, but accelerating/decelerating it was really bad, and then it would not go much over 6000 rpm when trying to go through the gears. It was only after I remembered the basic calibration that I decided to see if it would do that when I put the key fob in and turned the ignition on, and it did, just the one time though which I gather is all that is needed. After that the car was fine again, and never ended up getting the fine calibration done, so not even sure if that is really necessary, probably. I am just amazed that the indy did not pick up that something was clearly wrong when they took the car for a test drive after finishing the job!

[dan l]

How do you do the basic calibration please?

[OnlyDriveGerman]

I just did this job and haven't started my car yet. I'd like some more info on this as well. My understanding is if you have the battery unplugged long enough, it will reset adaptations including what is needed for a reset after removing/replacing the valvetronic sensor. Thank in advance.

[White94RX]

Like I said previously, the calibration or sweep is not needed. Stick the key in, turn on the key, wait a few seconds, cycle the key if it makes you warm and fuzzy inside, and start the engine. I never do the calibration.

[jaredrall]

2007 BMW X3 -174,000 miles

Okay I replaced the valve cover gasket cycled the ignition and it started up fine but The ESL light came on. I turned it off, unhooked the battery, waited and hooked it back up. Cycled the ignition and started the engine. It ran fine for a little while then I started to hear the valves start tapping and the ESL light came on and Then it started but no acceleration. I unhooked the battery again and reconnected. I cycled the engine and restarted. It started and idled rough and then I heard a whine likely from the valvetronic motor and its now hot as hell an hour after Turning off the car.

When the car is running pedal response is sluggish.

Would this be a fault in the eccentric shaft sensor causing the valvetronic motor to fault?

There was oil on the eccentric shaft sensor when changing the valve cover gasket. I didn't change it because it was idling okay prior to replacing the valve cover gasket.

The only code I had was P1030 - valvetronic motor response.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

[Franki Louda]

Hi. Were you ever able to resolve your issue with the valvtronic relearn? And how did you get it resolved? I am having the same issue and was wondering how you made out with it. Thanks in advance.

[White94RX]

Did you read any of the posts? Especially mine?

[gusm325]

Did you read any of the posts? Especially mine?

Nope.
Not a one, all over the forum.

[White94RX]

Clearly you have. I just try and keep the guys from chasing after nothing. For some reason, everyone seems to think a valvetronic sweep or adjustment is necessary when it's not.

[gusm325]

I did, I took off the Valvetronic motor to install new "football gasket" for the blessed oil leak near the plug holes on the VC and as you have repeatedly stated all over this forum "no need to relearn anything", fired right up, that was 10k miles ago. There are many confusing and misleading post all over.
I am indeed thankful for the good consisive advise you post regurlarly for us "shadetree guys" as it is the only way a "working stiff" can afford one of these suckers these days.
Do as much DIY as possible.
Thank you

[c362137]

Clearly you have. I just try and keep the guys from chasing after nothing. For some reason, everyone seems to think a valvetronic sweep or adjustment is necessary when it's not.

Do I just need to turn the key on for a bit on an E66? I did the valve covers and am waiting on a new coil (oil in tubes) and can't test it until I get the new coil.

[White94RX]

Turn the key on. Start the engine. Have a beer.

[mengman]

Hi there,
What if forgetting doing key-position-2 trick, went directly ignite the vehicle and got rough idle and power loss, after re-learning no luck, how to fix it though? Thanks in advance

Clearly you have. I just try and keep the guys from chasing after nothing. For some reason, everyone seems to think a valvetronic sweep or adjustment is necessary when it's not.

[White94RX]

Probably have something else wrong with the engine

[gusm325]

Read above, you got something else going on, check whatever work you did.
There is nothing to learn for the "key position trick".
If you need help from these guys, explain how you got to this point.

[mengman]

Thanks
I just did valvetronic motor gasket re-tightening due to minor oil leak.
Everything was fine before this.
Forgot to leave the key at position 2 for self-calibration, went straight ignite the car.
No start, then thought it must be related to valvetronic motor, the limit positions was messed up.
Manually turned motor using 4mm Allen, got the car started with code 2A38 thrown, and rough idle and power loss.
The code reappeared immediately when acceleration was applied.
Faulty motor?
messed timing?
any thought?
Thanks in advance

[gusm325]

I removed the motor and replaced the gasket, reinstalled with no issue. I don't know what you mean "Forgot to leave the key at position 2",
I . J
If you turned the motor in place while ignition was on, I would just clear the errors and restart it normally, otherwise something else is up, just tightening the mounting bolts of the motor to the valve cover do absolutely nothing to the position of the cam...

If you turned the motor manually while ignition is on you may altered the rest position of the limit sensor, a clear and restart should work.

[Paul724@msn.com]

Hi Guys. Can anyone supply part number for a genuine BMW valvetronic motor for a E85 2 LITRE 2008 Z4 please.

[ChubbyWubby]

I was replacing eccentric shaft actuator and stopper bolt snapped off is there any way to take that bolt out of its hole !!